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Audio System Setup

Found 53 results

  1. I keep thinking this and can’t figure this out in my head and it’s driving me crazy. So let’s say I have a 2 channel amp and two 2 ohm subwoofers. My amp is stable bridged at 4 ohm so I wire them in series. Now both subs pound at the same time. Now let’s say I just hook up each sub to each channel and let the subs run in stereo?! What would happen? Will they pound the same or pound in stereo and be kinda off?! My real thoughts on this are really because I have a really good zapco amp that is 1 ohm stereo stable that I could potentially hook up a lot more subwoofers too but only in stereo not bridged. But I just want to know will the subs pound the same in stereo mode as apposed to bridge mode or even mono amp style? Also if I did hook them up on each channel, is there A way to just make them run in mono mode instead of stereo? Thanks guys. Also I’ve had an account here but I’ve forgotten it and used my facebook for a new one lol.
  2. hey, i have 2x 700w rms 4ohm pioneer championseries 10 inch subs how much amp do i need to power them?
  3. Time Left: 26 days and 11 hours

    • FOR SALE
    • USED

    4-channel subwoofer amplifer 150 watts RMS x 4 (rated power from 1.5 to 4 ohms) 300 watts RMS x 2 bridged (rated power from 3 to 8 ohms) variable high- and low-pass filter (50-500 Hz 12 or 24dB/octave) subsonic filter and output polarity control removable power and speaker plugs optional wired remote for level control optional HD stacking kit for stacking multiple HD amps together Class D amplifier design MOSFET power and output stages differential-balanced inputs eliminate noise from your vehicle's electrical system speaker- and preamp-level inputs (speaker-level input requires an optional adapter) preamp outputs 4-gauge power and ground leads and a 50-amp fuse recommended — wiring and hardware not included with amplifier no onboard fuses — when installing multiple amps in a system, an additional 50-amp in-line fuse between the distribution block and the amplifier is recommended 10-13/16"W x 2"H x 8-7/8"D Also selling: Pair of DC Level 4 XL 15" $200 Pair of SSA ZCON 15" BNIB $300 Atomic AT-5000.1 $500 Audiopipe 3000.1 $150 Giving away Ship n' Shore Battery charger ($80), 15ft of KnuKonceptz 4 gauge ($15), 13ft of Trystar 1/0 gauge ($26), and 50sq ft of RAAM Audio BXT II RAAMat Sound deadener ($175) for free to buyers $400 shipped.

    $400.00

    Los Angeles, California - US

  4. Time Left: 26 days and 11 hours

    • FOR SALE
    • USED

    Hardcore amps. You should know what these are if you're in the market. - Model 5000.1- Class D mono block- A competition linkable grade Amplifier- RMS 5000W 1 ohm* Digital mono block amplifier* Dual MOS-FET power supplies* Efficiency over 86%* RMS power handling---1500w 4 ohms 14.4V* RMS power handling---3000w 2 ohms 14.4V* RMS power handling---5000w 1 ohms 14.4V* Signal-to-noise ratio 90dB * Phase shift 0-180 degree * subsonic filter: 10-60Hz * lowpass filter: 35-300Hz * Input sensitivity: 200mV -6V* Bass remote controller with telephone wire & click volume & blue LED* 3 way protection: over voltage, speaker short & thermal overload* Total harmonic distortion:< 0.1%* Continuously variable 0 18dB Bass Boost* Built - in variable 0 18dB per octave xover* Power Consumption< 490A * Size: 24.50 x 10.60 x 2.60 Also selling: Pair of DC Level 4 XL 15" $200 Pair of SSA ZCON 15" BNIB $300 Audiopipe 3000.1 $150 JL HD600/4 $500 Giving away Ship n' Shore Battery charger ($80), 15ft of KnuKonceptz 4 gauge ($15), 13ft of Trystar 1/0 gauge ($26), and 50sq ft of RAAM Audio BXT II RAAMat Sound deadener ($175) for free to buyers $500 preferably local pickup in southern California. +$75 shipping.

    $500.00

    Los Angeles, California

  5. Time Left: 26 days and 11 hours

    • FOR SALE
    • USED

    Great amp. Used with a pair of DC Audio Level 4 XL's, which I'm also selling along with the rest of my gear. • Power Amplifier: 3000 Watts• Channel: 1 Channel Class D• Frequency Response: 8Hz - 18KHz• Signals to Noise Ratio: 70db• Bass Boost: 30-80Hz• Input Sensitivity: 0.2-5V• Subsonic Filter: 5-50Hz• Low Pass Filter: 40-180Hz• Output Power (RMS): 1 Channel @ 2Ω - 3000W2 Channel @ 1Ω - 1500W• Dimension: 710x176x55mm Also selling: Pair of DC Level 4 XL 15" $200 Pair of SSA ZCON 15" BNIB $300 Atomic AT-5000.1 $500 JL HD600/4 $500 Giving away Ship n' Shore Battery charger ($80), 15ft of KnuKonceptz 4 gauge ($15), 13ft of Trystar 1/0 gauge ($26), and 50sq ft of RAAM Audio BXT II RAAMat Sound deadener ($175) for free to buyers $150 shipped.

    $150.00

    Los Angeles, California

  6. View Listing FS: JL HD600/4 4-channel subwoofer amplifer 150 watts RMS x 4 (rated power from 1.5 to 4 ohms) 300 watts RMS x 2 bridged (rated power from 3 to 8 ohms) variable high- and low-pass filter (50-500 Hz 12 or 24dB/octave) subsonic filter and output polarity control removable power and speaker plugs optional wired remote for level control optional HD stacking kit for stacking multiple HD amps together Class D amplifier design MOSFET power and output stages differential-balanced inputs eliminate noise from your vehicle's electrical system speaker- and preamp-level inputs (speaker-level input requires an optional adapter) preamp outputs 4-gauge power and ground leads and a 50-amp fuse recommended — wiring and hardware not included with amplifier no onboard fuses — when installing multiple amps in a system, an additional 50-amp in-line fuse between the distribution block and the amplifier is recommended 10-13/16"W x 2"H x 8-7/8"D Also selling: Pair of DC Level 4 XL 15" $200 Pair of SSA ZCON 15" BNIB $300 Atomic AT-5000.1 $500 Audiopipe 3000.1 $200 Giving away Ship n' Shore Battery charger ($80), 15ft of KnuKonceptz 4 gauge ($15), 13ft of Trystar 1/0 gauge ($26), and 50sq ft of RAAM Audio BXT II RAAMat Sound deadener ($175) for free to buyers $500 shipped. Advertiser blackink Date 06/20/2019 Price $500.00 Category Amplifier Classifieds  
  7. View Listing FS: Atomic AT-5000.1 Class D Monoblock Hardcore amps. You should know what these are if you're in the market. - Model 5000.1- Class D mono block- A competition linkable grade Amplifier- RMS 5000W 1 ohm* Digital mono block amplifier* Dual MOS-FET power supplies* Efficiency over 86%* RMS power handling---1500w 4 ohms 14.4V* RMS power handling---3000w 2 ohms 14.4V* RMS power handling---5000w 1 ohms 14.4V* Signal-to-noise ratio 90dB * Phase shift 0-180 degree * subsonic filter: 10-60Hz * lowpass filter: 35-300Hz * Input sensitivity: 200mV -6V* Bass remote controller with telephone wire & click volume & blue LED* 3 way protection: over voltage, speaker short & thermal overload* Total harmonic distortion:< 0.1%* Continuously variable 0 18dB Bass Boost* Built - in variable 0 18dB per octave xover* Power Consumption< 490A * Size: 24.50 x 10.60 x 2.60 Also selling: Pair of DC Level 4 XL 15" $250 Pair of SSA ZCON 15" BNIB $350 Audiopipe 3000.1 $200 JL HD600/4 $500 Giving away Ship n' Shore Battery charger ($80), 15ft of KnuKonceptz 4 gauge ($15), 13ft of Trystar 1/0 gauge ($26), and 50sq ft of RAAM Audio BXT II RAAMat Sound deadener ($175) for free to buyers $500 preferably local pickup in southern California. +$75 shipping. Advertiser blackink Date 06/20/2019 Price $500.00 Category Amplifier Classifieds  
  8. View Listing FS: Audiopipe 3000.1 Class D Monoblock Great amp. Used with a pair of DC Audio Level 4 XL's, which I'm also selling along with the rest of my gear. • Power Amplifier: 3000 Watts• Channel: 1 Channel Class D• Frequency Response: 8Hz - 18KHz• Signals to Noise Ratio: 70db• Bass Boost: 30-80Hz• Input Sensitivity: 0.2-5V• Subsonic Filter: 5-50Hz• Low Pass Filter: 40-180Hz• Output Power (RMS): 1 Channel @ 2Ω - 3000W2 Channel @ 1Ω - 1500W• Dimension: 710x176x55mm Also selling: Pair of DC Level 4 XL 15" $250 Pair of SSA ZCON 15" BNIB $350 Atomic AT-5000.1 $500 JL HD600/4 $500 Giving away Ship n' Shore Battery charger ($80), 15ft of KnuKonceptz 4 gauge ($15), 13ft of Trystar 1/0 gauge ($26), and 50sq ft of RAAM Audio BXT II RAAMat Sound deadener ($175) for free to buyers $200 shipped. Advertiser blackink Date 06/20/2019 Price $200.00 Category Amplifier Classifieds  
  9. I have a Memphis Audio PRX1000.1 powering two Sundown EV3 10'S. Subs are wired to a 1 ohm load. So the issue I keep have reaccuring is the amp will suddenly quit providing output to the subs, when this happens I can reach back and literally just touch the amp with my hand or even just a finger tip and output comes back and subs start playing. The blue status light never changes to red or cuts off or anything just stays blue as if everything is fine. Amp isn't hot to the touch, no popping or chirping or anything issues with the sound when it is playing. There is no pattern as to when the issue occurs. I could be sitting still in my drive way this it just cuts off, driving down the road, music up loud, or music playing on low. Then just reach back and touch it and they kick back on. I've also noticed this issue while adjusting knobs on the amp, like I'll tweek the LPF and it'll stop, touch the knob again with the tip of the screwdriver or something and it'll kick back on. It's extremely annoying and this is my second amp being that I exchanged the one right before it (same make and model amp) because it had issues. I know it's got good ground I recently just added a new dedicated grounding post just for it. So my question is, has anyone had similar issues I'm having before with this or any other type of amp? If so did they ever figure out and/or solve the issue?
  10. Hi, thanks in advance for any help. I've added a leisure battery to my van, using the wiring in this video: https://youtu.be/oOQHe_cZtI4?t=1044 I have this amp: https://www.caraudiocentre.co.uk/product_m-pioneer-gm-d8704_p-41014.htm and this head unit: https://www.pioneer-car.eu/uk/products/deh-s3000bt I'm assuming the head unit will be fine if I wire it in to the fuse block (this one: https://www.amazon.co.uk/gp/product/B01IVRC9RA/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o01_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1). Should I re-wire the permanent or ignition switched terminal from the back of the head unit to the fuse block. And my main question... For the amp, Should I be connecting that via 16mm cable straight to the battery (or to the isolator switch in this case) and does it need its own fuse. Thanks Tom
  11. Hello car audiophiles, this is my first ever forum thread anywhere. I'm just wandering if I need to upgrade my alternator to a "high output", and if so, what amperage would I need. My setup currently is a 02 Buick LeSabre, with a 800cca battery from advance Auto, with a PSI platform 3 12 inch sub, dvc 2 ohm that pushes 3000w. The amp I'm trying to use is a soundstream 8000w.1d. the amp pushes 4000w rms at 1 ohm. I tried using my current wiring setup(4 guage and all stock electrical wiring) and when I did the amp kept blinking into protect mode and making a very loud distinct whine through the speakers. When I felt the amp, it was as hot as a firecracker, and so was the 4 guage power wire. Please help someone
  12. Hey guys, I need some help regarding to the RCA outputs for my headunit, it’s a Sony WX-GT90B. It’s got an inbuilt amp but I’m using a 2 channel pioneer amp for my sub. However, my headunit is confusing me quite a bit, it’s got 6 RCA Outputs, the one I’m looking at plugging into is labeled “Sub”, but the RCA Colours are the same (see picture). What does that mean?, does it correlate with the red/white ones next to it?, I’m unsure what it means so any help would be greatly appreciated. cheers ecojet
  13. Hey guys, I'm in need of some help in the form of picking the right amplifier for my sub. It's pioneer TS-A300B with around 500WRMS @ 2 ohms, I'm looking to run it at about 300-350wrms, I'm thinking a monoblock amp because it's less stuffing around, I need an amp wthat has a LP Filter however . What would you guys suggest?, any and all help is greatly appreciated cheers
  14. I recently installed a 12" subwoofer and amp. The problem I was told, is that my factory amp isn't allowing my subwoofer and amp to turn on. I was told that I need an adapter to shut off the factory amp and use my amp and sub instead. Can someone link me the adapter or tell me where I can get it? Thank you
  15. Hey all, I recently had a very well respected car audio place in town here install the Pioneer 4400nex in my 2003 trailblazer ltz with the bose sound system. Now, they say they're going to take care of fixing it, but I would like to try and figure out what's going on incase they try to sell me something I do not need. So, when I am sitting, engine off, key turned on, the stereo works great, sound comes through, head unit on. If I start driving, it will play for a few seconds to a few minutes, and the head unit stays on, the song continues playing, but I can hear nothing. It happens on radio, aux, carplay... All sound sources. Now, when I stop, turn off the engine, but the ignition stays on, the sound kicks back on immediately. There is a squealing noise while the stereo turns on, not a huge deal, kind of annoying but not a deal breaker. Any clues? The shop said it could be a few things, but obviously wouldn't guarantee which was the source of the problem, as they haven't looked at it in detail yet. They said it could be the GM class II data bus, head unit, or "more likely your amplifier." I think they might just be trying to sell me an amp, and know what the problem is. I would appreciate any and all input as to what could be causing this, so I can hopefully tell if they're scamming me or if they actually found a problem with my amp. Thanks Luke
  16. I just picked up a Pyle Plmra 1000D 2000 Watt Block Amplifier for 70 bucks. It's basically brand new and I was just wondering what they normally sell for. Wasn't able to find anything as far as prices online. Thanks for the help.
  17. Hey guys, I know posts like this are redundant 😫. I was into the audio scene back in the 2000s but not so much in the past 5 years. Here is what I need some assistance with: 2018 Ford F150 10" SSA GON - Sealed box 1.3cf (rear center console enclosure) Looking for a "budget" amp to run this sub. I have kind of narrowed it down to the following (Open to other suggestions under $160-180) Skar RP 800.1D NVX BDA 7501 Cadence Q10001D American Bass PH1600 Audiopipe AMPI1300 Soundqubed S1-850 Any input on if I should immediately remove any of these from the list? I have not yet ordered the sub so I can order the right coil config to match the amp at 1 or 2 ohms. I also seen there is a preorder on the new CT Sounds amps but who knows, they could be junk. Any help is appreciated! This is just a small setup, not looking to spend a ton of money or rattle my brand new truck apart like I used to. Any first hand experience with any of the amp series I listed is helpful.
  18. Okay so basically don't have a lot of knowledge about car audio systems just want my car to be obnoxiously loud. I have a 4 channel amp, 4 speakers and 2 subs. Can someone direct me to an installation guide to make it easier. Also is it possible to have all 4 speakers and 2 subs hooked up to 1 amp or hook 2 of the speakers straight to the headunit cheers
  19. I have a amp I want to install. The stereo I have is the dual xdvd210 and it has rca but it comes in the form or these rca dongles, I have no idea which plugs to plug my 2 rca cables into.
  20. What's good? New here, but I'm no rookie to the Bass scene. I've been a Bass-Head since the days of Pyle and EV. I fell out of the game for a few years, but I have always spectated on Youtube to see other builds and try to take note of new designs and products. I'm am more than ready to get back into the game, it's been calling me. I see these brutal, hair-trick, spl vehicles on the Tube and I just feel like I'm missing out. I will be purchasing a Sundown X-15 V.2 D2 in two days and I have run into so many promising amplifier choices, I have seen dozens of Dyno tests on almost every amplifier on the market, and I'm just stuck lol. Never had a problem deciding on an amp before, but I want to do it right this time and I need opinions. Now, before I touch anything in my 2008 G5, I'm going to attack my electrical system from front to back, the biggest, purest, OFC wire I can run, will be running throughout. I even got my eye on some welding cable ( I'm serious) I don't want even a grain of voltage drop. I just found an installer that owns a shop blocks away from me and he knows his stuff I mean he breathes the stuff and does pro work. I've seen his box builds and he gets down. That's going to be a big help to get me back started. He'll be building my enclosure for my Sundown when I get it. I've looked at a lot of amps, everything from, Orion, Skar, DC Audio, Soundstream, Crescendo, Sundown, Deaf Bonce, and many others. My thing is, I haven't heard any of these products in person. I've seen reviews, I've seen the video, but I haven't heard any of these in person sadly, but I know a lot of you guys have. Taramps are even getting my attention, but it's something weird about an amp so small that puts out so much power, how they store big enough components inside those Taramps to support the current and heat is beyond me, but I see them in a lot of competition builds. I'm looking for something in the 3k - 5k RMS range. I know the Sundown X-15 is rated 1500 watts RMS, but I like to leave headroom for box rise and other adjustments, plus, we all know Sundown subs can handle almost three times it's rated RMS. I'm very mindful of my gains and levels also and I will have all levels professionally tuned and adjusted before any serious demos take place. I'm going to get a few secondary XS Power batteries to run whatever amp I get, just to see what it does and if I get even a whisper of voltage drop I'm going to slap a Mechman on it. I'm going to get one in the long run anyway so. Any experienced suggestions on a nice professional amp will be highly appreciated. Going to pick up a Pioneer DEH-80PRS this week also that way I can start off with a clean 5 volt signal to the amp. This is just my back in the game set-up. I'm looking for a used Tahoe or similar that I can build a wall in but one thing at a time. I'm going to do it right this time, pics, videos and updates coming soon.
  21. View Listing Powerbass Xtreme XA-1500D .. 1500 WATTS PowerBass Xtreme 1500-Watts XA-1500D🤗 Advertiser Katie Nicole Date 02/15/2019 Price $250.00 Category Amplifier Classifieds  
  22. This advert is COMPLETED!

    • FOR SALE
    • USED

    PowerBass Xtreme 1500-Watts XA-1500D🤗

    $250.00

    Dartmouth , Massachusetts - US

  23. I am confused on how you tune an amp and line out converter at the same time. I have an LP7-2 LOC, and R1100M Amp and they both have gain knobs on it. I understand that for each, if tuning by ear, you need to put your radio at 3/4ths volume, play a 40hz test tone, and then turn the gain knobs up until the subwoofer starts audibly distorting, but how do you do it both? The only thing I can think of is to just leave the LOC at 100% gain and then turn the amp up until it starts to distort and then leave it right before it distorts, but is that really the right way?
  24. I installed two 12 inch subs with an amp and a line output converter in my Honda Accord 2009, and I wired it to the harness on the head unit but the amp never turned on. I took it to a car audio store and had them look at it, and they said that it can't be wired to the radio because it isn't just constant 12 volt but also data, or something. Long story short, he said that I should wire it to the rear speaker instead (or have them do it for 200 dollars.) I have an LP7-2 LOC and a BOSS R1100M amp. I watched a youtube video and a guy wired the speaker wires on his converter to the rear speakers, then wired the 12 volt constant wire to the positive on his amp, then the ground wire to the ground on his amp, then the remote start wire to the remote start on his amp. I was wondering if this would work properly or if there is a better way to do it? Also I heard that since it is a monoblock amp and I'm only using it for my 12 inch subs that I can just wire the positive and negative to one speaker instead of both, since subs don't need left and right channels.
  25. Hey everyone, I'm pretty new to car audio, and I have some questions on mono amps and subs. I just purchased 2 10 inch subs. They are the Polk Audio DB 1042 SVC. It's a 4-ohm sub with single voice coils. I also purchased a sealed box for these subs. (https://www.sonicelectronix.com/item_1747.html) The box has 2 separate spots on the back for connections. One on the left and one on the right. I also have this amp. (https://www.sonicelectronix.com/item_93307.html) It's a 750 rms class d 2 ohm (stable) mono amp. I also purchased an 8 gauge amp wiring kit. Now, I know how to wire the ground, power, and remote turn on. That's a breeze for me. It's wiring the sub to the amp that I'm not good with. With my system I have, shown above, could someone give me specific instructions on how to first, connect the subs to the outputs on the enclosure? In other words, how to wire the back of the subs to the enclosure before screwing in the subs. And 2nd, how to wire the amp to those sub outputs correctly. Thank you.
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