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Audio System Setup

Found 43 results

  1. I recently installed a 12" subwoofer and amp. The problem I was told, is that my factory amp isn't allowing my subwoofer and amp to turn on. I was told that I need an adapter to shut off the factory amp and use my amp and sub instead. Can someone link me the adapter or tell me where I can get it? Thank you
  2. Hey all, I recently had a very well respected car audio place in town here install the Pioneer 4400nex in my 2003 trailblazer ltz with the bose sound system. Now, they say they're going to take care of fixing it, but I would like to try and figure out what's going on incase they try to sell me something I do not need. So, when I am sitting, engine off, key turned on, the stereo works great, sound comes through, head unit on. If I start driving, it will play for a few seconds to a few minutes, and the head unit stays on, the song continues playing, but I can hear nothing. It happens on radio, aux, carplay... All sound sources. Now, when I stop, turn off the engine, but the ignition stays on, the sound kicks back on immediately. There is a squealing noise while the stereo turns on, not a huge deal, kind of annoying but not a deal breaker. Any clues? The shop said it could be a few things, but obviously wouldn't guarantee which was the source of the problem, as they haven't looked at it in detail yet. They said it could be the GM class II data bus, head unit, or "more likely your amplifier." I think they might just be trying to sell me an amp, and know what the problem is. I would appreciate any and all input as to what could be causing this, so I can hopefully tell if they're scamming me or if they actually found a problem with my amp. Thanks Luke
  3. Robert Blackham

    What is it worth?

    I just picked up a Pyle Plmra 1000D 2000 Watt Block Amplifier for 70 bucks. It's basically brand new and I was just wondering what they normally sell for. Wasn't able to find anything as far as prices online. Thanks for the help.
  4. BigPun1982

    Out of the loop... Amp help

    Hey guys, I know posts like this are redundant 😫. I was into the audio scene back in the 2000s but not so much in the past 5 years. Here is what I need some assistance with: 2018 Ford F150 10" SSA GON - Sealed box 1.3cf (rear center console enclosure) Looking for a "budget" amp to run this sub. I have kind of narrowed it down to the following (Open to other suggestions under $160-180) Skar RP 800.1D NVX BDA 7501 Cadence Q10001D American Bass PH1600 Audiopipe AMPI1300 Soundqubed S1-850 Any input on if I should immediately remove any of these from the list? I have not yet ordered the sub so I can order the right coil config to match the amp at 1 or 2 ohms. I also seen there is a preorder on the new CT Sounds amps but who knows, they could be junk. Any help is appreciated! This is just a small setup, not looking to spend a ton of money or rattle my brand new truck apart like I used to. Any first hand experience with any of the amp series I listed is helpful.
  5. Okay so basically don't have a lot of knowledge about car audio systems just want my car to be obnoxiously loud. I have a 4 channel amp, 4 speakers and 2 subs. Can someone direct me to an installation guide to make it easier. Also is it possible to have all 4 speakers and 2 subs hooked up to 1 amp or hook 2 of the speakers straight to the headunit cheers
  6. I have a amp I want to install. The stereo I have is the dual xdvd210 and it has rca but it comes in the form or these rca dongles, I have no idea which plugs to plug my 2 rca cables into.
  7. What's good? New here, but I'm no rookie to the Bass scene. I've been a Bass-Head since the days of Pyle and EV. I fell out of the game for a few years, but I have always spectated on Youtube to see other builds and try to take note of new designs and products. I'm am more than ready to get back into the game, it's been calling me. I see these brutal, hair-trick, spl vehicles on the Tube and I just feel like I'm missing out. I will be purchasing a Sundown X-15 V.2 D2 in two days and I have run into so many promising amplifier choices, I have seen dozens of Dyno tests on almost every amplifier on the market, and I'm just stuck lol. Never had a problem deciding on an amp before, but I want to do it right this time and I need opinions. Now, before I touch anything in my 2008 G5, I'm going to attack my electrical system from front to back, the biggest, purest, OFC wire I can run, will be running throughout. I even got my eye on some welding cable ( I'm serious) I don't want even a grain of voltage drop. I just found an installer that owns a shop blocks away from me and he knows his stuff I mean he breathes the stuff and does pro work. I've seen his box builds and he gets down. That's going to be a big help to get me back started. He'll be building my enclosure for my Sundown when I get it. I've looked at a lot of amps, everything from, Orion, Skar, DC Audio, Soundstream, Crescendo, Sundown, Deaf Bonce, and many others. My thing is, I haven't heard any of these products in person. I've seen reviews, I've seen the video, but I haven't heard any of these in person sadly, but I know a lot of you guys have. Taramps are even getting my attention, but it's something weird about an amp so small that puts out so much power, how they store big enough components inside those Taramps to support the current and heat is beyond me, but I see them in a lot of competition builds. I'm looking for something in the 3k - 5k RMS range. I know the Sundown X-15 is rated 1500 watts RMS, but I like to leave headroom for box rise and other adjustments, plus, we all know Sundown subs can handle almost three times it's rated RMS. I'm very mindful of my gains and levels also and I will have all levels professionally tuned and adjusted before any serious demos take place. I'm going to get a few secondary XS Power batteries to run whatever amp I get, just to see what it does and if I get even a whisper of voltage drop I'm going to slap a Mechman on it. I'm going to get one in the long run anyway so. Any experienced suggestions on a nice professional amp will be highly appreciated. Going to pick up a Pioneer DEH-80PRS this week also that way I can start off with a clean 5 volt signal to the amp. This is just my back in the game set-up. I'm looking for a used Tahoe or similar that I can build a wall in but one thing at a time. I'm going to do it right this time, pics, videos and updates coming soon.
  8. View Listing Powerbass Xtreme XA-1500D .. 1500 WATTS PowerBass Xtreme 1500-Watts XA-1500D🤗 Advertiser Katie Nicole Date 02/15/2019 Price $250.00 Category Amplifier Classifieds  
  9. This advert is COMPLETED!

    • FOR SALE
    • USED

    PowerBass Xtreme 1500-Watts XA-1500D🤗

    $250.00

    Dartmouth , Massachusetts - US

  10. I am confused on how you tune an amp and line out converter at the same time. I have an LP7-2 LOC, and R1100M Amp and they both have gain knobs on it. I understand that for each, if tuning by ear, you need to put your radio at 3/4ths volume, play a 40hz test tone, and then turn the gain knobs up until the subwoofer starts audibly distorting, but how do you do it both? The only thing I can think of is to just leave the LOC at 100% gain and then turn the amp up until it starts to distort and then leave it right before it distorts, but is that really the right way?
  11. I installed two 12 inch subs with an amp and a line output converter in my Honda Accord 2009, and I wired it to the harness on the head unit but the amp never turned on. I took it to a car audio store and had them look at it, and they said that it can't be wired to the radio because it isn't just constant 12 volt but also data, or something. Long story short, he said that I should wire it to the rear speaker instead (or have them do it for 200 dollars.) I have an LP7-2 LOC and a BOSS R1100M amp. I watched a youtube video and a guy wired the speaker wires on his converter to the rear speakers, then wired the 12 volt constant wire to the positive on his amp, then the ground wire to the ground on his amp, then the remote start wire to the remote start on his amp. I was wondering if this would work properly or if there is a better way to do it? Also I heard that since it is a monoblock amp and I'm only using it for my 12 inch subs that I can just wire the positive and negative to one speaker instead of both, since subs don't need left and right channels.
  12. Hey everyone, I'm pretty new to car audio, and I have some questions on mono amps and subs. I just purchased 2 10 inch subs. They are the Polk Audio DB 1042 SVC. It's a 4-ohm sub with single voice coils. I also purchased a sealed box for these subs. (https://www.sonicelectronix.com/item_1747.html) The box has 2 separate spots on the back for connections. One on the left and one on the right. I also have this amp. (https://www.sonicelectronix.com/item_93307.html) It's a 750 rms class d 2 ohm (stable) mono amp. I also purchased an 8 gauge amp wiring kit. Now, I know how to wire the ground, power, and remote turn on. That's a breeze for me. It's wiring the sub to the amp that I'm not good with. With my system I have, shown above, could someone give me specific instructions on how to first, connect the subs to the outputs on the enclosure? In other words, how to wire the back of the subs to the enclosure before screwing in the subs. And 2nd, how to wire the amp to those sub outputs correctly. Thank you.
  13. Hello, I am new to car audio. I tried to read up and watch as many videos as I could to make the process smooth but now I'm stuck. I have all brand new equipment. I wired everything up and got it all into place and when I turn on my music, the subs work but are extremely quiet. If I am sitting in the car I cannot even tell that they are on. When I look at them they are not moving visibly. The only reason I know they are moving is because I can feel them. This is what I have: - 2 Power Acoustik MOFO-122X Dual 2-Ohm Voice Coil (1,350 RMS Each) - 1 Rockville dB15 6000 Watt/3000w RMS Mono Class D 2 Ohm Amplifier Car Audio Amp - 1 Metra - Two Channel Line Output Converter - 1 ASC Dual 12" Subwoofer Universal Slot Vented Port Sub Box Speaker Enclosure My car is a 2013 Kia Optima with the Infinity sound system upgrade. From my understanding, the car uses SPDIF from the head unit to the factory amp. This means I had to tap into the speaker wires coming out of the factory amp. I wired the speakers to keep them 2-Ohms. I'll include a diagram of how I wired them. The only knobs I have messed with are the remote volume on the new amp, the knobs on the LOC, and I very slightly turned up the gain knob on the new amp but was too scared to turn it up any farther because I didn't want to damage anything (I ended up turning it back down right after). Any suggestions? Your help is greatly appreciated.
  14. Jason Taylor

    What Sub Should I go with?

    So I recently have been running Rockford p2 12s, 2 of them, but they both recently blew, and I personally am not a Rockford fan anyways and am looking for what to go with next, my price range is like $120 per sub or but I’m flexible on that. Just want to get something that hits harder than the p2s and is not Rockford... the amp I’m using is the Rockford prime 1200.1D, looked at a lot of subs but can’t seem to find any in my price range that out do the p2 if anyone has any recommendations and or personal experience upgrading from the p2 line that would be amazing... thanks
  15. whats the best amp I could use for 4 alpine 6x8 speaker rated at 100 watts rms each and 300 Watts max at 4 ohms I was thinking the jbl GTR-104 4 channel amp for a budget but if I was going to spend more I thought a alpine X-A70F 4 channel or what do u think would be the best to power them?
  16. Ethan Carlson

    DS18? Newbie alert

    Hey Audiophiles!! I'm looking to buy a fresh pair of subs and amp for my new car and came across these DS18, 2 12's with a built in amp, I'm on a bit of a budget but want to know what is right to look for! I figured this is the right place to come for help! https://www.amazon.com/DS18-BPX212A-Complete-Package-Enclosure/dp/B01LAXBKK4/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1544320922&sr=8-1&keywords=BPX212A BPX212A Thank you
  17. Hi, this is my first post! Any help would be much appreciated. Now I am looking at getting 2 subwoofers and these are Pioneer TS-W311D4 (12" Champion Series DVC 4 ohm). These subs perform at 800 watt rms combined (400 watt rms each) and I'm going to wire the DVC in parallel and in parallel with the amplifier to make a total 1 ohm load. Now I have 2 amplifiers in mind and these are the Pioneer GM-D9601 or the Pioneer GM-D8601 and these of course are 1 ohm stable. So the GM-D9601 performs 1200 watt rms at 1 ohm and the GM-D8601 performs at 800 watt rms at 1 ohm (which would be a perfect match). So my question is, is it a good idea to buy the GM-D9601 and have more "headroom" or just match the rms ratings and get the GM-D8601? And would I be right in thinking that the GM-D9601 will run cooler as it won't be as stressed as the GM-D8601? Thank you :)
  18. Okay so here's the deal, a couple months ago my sub stopped working but my amp was turning on just fine. I just got around to fixing it. I replaced the RCAs, remote wire, speaker wire, and regrounded it and it worked perfectly, then the next day it went out again so I regrounded once more with the paint actually scraped off this time and it still doesn't work. My sub works just fine on my friends amp and my amp is on with the green light. Any ideas as to what is going on? I also have a brand new battery and alternator that got put in recently so it shouldn't be a power issue
  19. fireplace369

    Batcap for a 4-Channel Amp?

    Hi. I have an XStatic Model 400 Batcap that I use for my sub woofer amp. I'm about to get a higher power 4-channel speaker amp (150W per channel x 4). Would this amp now need to run through a cap?
  20. Item(s) for Sale: DC Audio 1.2K amplifier Item(s) Description/Condition: Brand new, only been out of the box for pictures. 1,200 watts RMS @ 1 OHM. Price: $300 plus shipping Shipping and Miscellaneous Item Information: Shipping will be exact cost with $50 insurance. Extra insurance will cost more. Will ship just about anywhere, just ask. Item Pictures: (List pictures in this section, 1st picture should be your username/date if you have less than 10 positive feedbacks with the i-Trader system or less than 10 references that you have sold to in the past. (These must be listed in your signature, or a link provided to a feedback thread listing these references)).
  21. My list of gear as follows 1x Boss mono block amp 2500w (old setup) -twin pioneer champs Dvc 1200w 12" 1x pioneer 4ch amp 1000w (60rms x4ch) - 2x pioneer 6.5 260w (60w rms)component - 2x pioneer 260w 6" (60w rms) coaxial Head deck : pioneer fxh755 bt (2 RCA out) Just wanted to know the best way to get the audio to the amps, 1 RCA per amp? I've never delt with 4ch is just having 1 RCA going to give me full control or full quality on my 4ch. If I got 2 RCA splitters would that achieve anything useful? Is high level worth using do I lose any quality compared to RCA? So out RCA into mono amp amd high level into 4ch amp? What's the best way about doing this. Is there any recommendations? I'm not wanting to spend too much money on this ?
  22. Hello friends. My amp and sub setup in my trunk works well except that the amp overheats regularly. It's a 4-channel amp, so I have two options for wiring the sub: bridged and unbridged. When it's unbridged, it's weak but it doesn't overheat as much. When it's bridged it sounds awesome but overheats after a few minutes, depending on the temperature outside. At first I thought that the ground wasn't good enough, so I moved it to the one of the bolts on the rear strut tower and sanded down every surface until shiny metal. I also cut the ground wire down to 18" or less. It still overheats. Maybe I need a higher gauge wire? I went to this audio shop and this guy told me to try switching the sub from channels 1 and 2 bridged to channels 3 and 4 bridged. So I did. Not sure what it did. I also might need to tune the setup more accurately, but I don't know that that has much to do with overheating issues. My car (95 Civic if you're wondering) came wired by the previous owner for a subwoofer. 4 gauge power wire from the battery to the trunk, 4 gauge ground, and a remote wire and RCA cables from the radio to the trunk. Power and ground are both OFC. Back in April, I got a used amp and a sub and put it in my trunk. I don't know much about audio/electrical, but I'll list what I know about my setup below: The amp I got is a PlanetAudio 4-channel amp (I know it's meant for speakers, but it at least works for the sub and I got it for $50). Here it is. The sub is a Pioneer. Don't know the model number, but the reading on the multimeter at the terminals tells me it's a 4-ohm sub. It's a single voice-coil subwoofer. What I don't understand is what bridging does to the impedance of the circuit. From my understanding, you want to match the impedance as close as you possibly can. So, if my amp is 4 ohms, I want a 4 ohm speaker to match it. Does bridging channels 1 and 2 put the impedance at 2 ohms and make it unstable? Or does running the sub on 1 channel put it at 8 ohms and make it more stable? I don't quite understand. Another quick few things. I have no money, but I still appreciate advice like "get a new amp" or "get a fan to blow air on it" even though I won't be able to follow through with it until I pay for college. Advice concerning the wiring will be much more valuable to me. Thanks for the help, guys.
  23. Ok, so to start off I am new to the forum and I really hope you guys will be able to help me on this one. My current setup is 2 kicker s12d solo barics (old school) and a memphis pr2.100 amp. The amp was an upgrade from my old MTX Thunder 325. Ever since i swapped amps I had a minor issue where the amp wasn’t getting properly powered on and I could usually get the big blue light and power light to come on by hitting the amp (gently) or moving the fuses up and down. Recently, the amp has been acting strange and it will not power on at all. I can get the big blue memphis logo to light up a little by wiggling fuses, but it eventually shuts off and the amp itself never fully powers on. Today I changed my ground wire to a nice thick copper wire with a copper terminal. I also readjusted my remote wire to ensure all of my connections were perfect. It worked for about 35 minutes and then cut out, and now I can’t even get the amp to turn on for a few seconds. And yes, I checked the fuse under the hood. Anyone have a clue what could be the problem? It’s an older system, but hasn’t been abused and worked fine for at least 4 months before this happened. I really would like to avoid buying another amp because I am currently buying a new headunit and some jeep mods. Any input is appreciated. Thanks, Conner
  24. Item(s) for Sale: Xtant 2200I 2x100 @ 4 Ohms Xtant 4180C 4x45 @ 4 Ohms Xtant 2140C 2x70 @ 4 Ohms Item(s) Description/Condition: I bought these from a dealer in I believe 1998 and then between school and medical issues the install was never finished and these have been living in closets since then. Time for them to go to someone who will use them. They have never been mounted and I have never hooked them up. They are still in the boxes as you will see in the picture. The only cosmetic issues are with the 2140C and 4180C in that the badges are missing. The 2200i and 4180C still have the protective coating on the top cover. Price: 2200i 200.00 4180c 225.00 2140c 175.00 Due to being unable to find comps for these amps in this condition I am somewhat guessing on a value. I will consider reasonable offers and obviously a package deal is possible. Shipping and Miscellaneous Item Information: Shipping is no problem, I will charge only exact shipping cost of whatever type the buyer chooses. Money order and paypal accepted. If a local deal (located in orlando Fl) then obviously cash works as well. While I am very new here and have not had any transactions, I do have a large number on another site that I will gladly provide upon request to potential buyers. Item Pictures: (List pictures in this section, 1st picture should be your username/date if you have less than 10 positive feedbacks with the i-Trader system or less than 10 references that you have sold to in the past. (These must be listed in your signature, or a link provided to a feedback thread listing these references)). https://www.dropbox.com/s/bj7szy3w3spuqq2/IMG_0777.JPG?dl=0 https://www.dropbox.com/s/evvz95ifdclspli/IMG_0787.JPG?dl=0 https://www.dropbox.com/s/npx41l8cg0q84tm/IMG_0786.JPG?dl=0 https://www.dropbox.com/s/gnhrsfo1nztcbkv/IMG_0785.JPG?dl=0
  25. Alright so I have 2 12 inch kicker comp vr subs and a jbl gtr 1001 amp, the 2 subs combined should put out 800 Watts rms, and my amp is supposed to be 1000 Watts rms. But I was having an issue where my subs were cutting out a lot at pretty low volumes and I’m trying to figure out what the problem could be. I also did not install everything myself so I’m not sure how everything was wired, and I’m a little new to car audio but I know the basics. So anyways once I noticed it was cutting out, I watched my amp while I hade it turned up to a volume it typically cuts out at, and I watched my amp to see if the power light was turning off and to see if the protection mode light would come on. Whenever it cut out the protection light would flick on and off. It does it less when I’m parked than when I’m driving. And when it was installed I was told the battery lost power 4 times, so the problem could be with the battery but if it is with the battery then why is the amp protection light coming on when it cuts out? Is it possible my amp just isn’t good enough? That wouldn’t make sense though because it’s a jbl, I heard great things about the amp, nothing but amazing reviews so I’m kind of puzzled. So if somebody could help me out it would be greatly appreciated, I tried to be as specific as I could be, I’m sorry if I left any info out.
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