What size wire? Seriously...

.........

CarAudio.com Regular
243
38
...
The Orion HCCA 3000.1DSPLX requires three 300A fuses. Does this mean I need wiring that can sustain 900A of current? (or does this mean I need three 100A fuses?) I have never worked with amps that have more than one power input. I also have to decide on what amp(s) I will be using for my mids/highs. I figure they will not use more than 150A of fusing between them.

So this leads me to my concern. Can I get away with NOT using 4/0 wire? Will 2/0 be sufficient for a single ~17' run to the back?

orionsnippet.png
 
Last edited:

spokey9

5 time International Booty Bandit Gold Meldalist
4,837
1,663
NE AR
If you're planning on getting anything close to that dyno you're gonna need to be able to feed that hcca...otherwise you're just buying a 3-4k amp
 

some dude

I myself was once president of Algeria
It's not so cut and dry.

My amplifier was 2300 watts. Recommend fuse of 200AMP.
I ran it for 2 years with a 60AMP fuse, zero problems.

I'm guessing here but a single run of 2/0 copper wire and a 300AMP fuse give or take might do you fine.

If you start popping fuses from high current draw then upgrade.. larger fuse and/or thicker wire.
 
Last edited:

Doxquzme
Premium Member

Current build, 2012 Mazda 3 Hatch 2.5T
1,624
523
Boise, ID
This has been addressed, several times, multiple post. ;)

Just say'n.

That really good 4/0 wire referenced in other post, it's available in 2/0 also - and its really priced well. Given that think you may actually try and play this thing hard, you should probably get the 2/0 and fan it out at the end. That 2/0 wire is good and for most of what I think you will do, should suffice.

That way all you need is a couple of these to get to the 1/0 input on your distribution blocks.

Amazon product ASIN B09MFWL83W
And a few of these too.

Amazon product ASIN B01634MRU2
What you need to do is to decide on the wire, AND, in this same post or one of the other post where there are multiple participants, let us know so we can assisting setting up your wiring situation. I actually have a drafting table where I can draw the entire schematic out, enjoy doing it, just have to know what you have decided to do. If your going to get all that done by the llocal shop, then just pick out the wire and we can help get the stuff needed to finish that up.
 
Last edited:
OP
?

.........

CarAudio.com Regular
243
38
...
Thing is I get multiple inputs stating different things. I have not worked with high current DC like this. I have however, worked in industry with high current, high voltage AC. Up to 1000hp 3 phase motors. But the wire in those situations is small compared to a car stereo. the 1/0 I have in my truck is twice the size as a 4160vac, 250hp motor. So right now I'm still trying to wrap my head around why I would need wire diameter big as a nickel for a few hundred amps. So at the moment I'm going to assume it's like in AC, where the larger higher voltage motors took smaller wire as opposed to the smaller hp motors that needed 4x the wire size.

That being said, I feel that 2/0 will suffice for my setup. One run to the rear battery and from there to a fused distribution block then to the amp. Is there something I'm not seeing?

If there is a good reason I should NOT, absolutely not use 2/0 please let me know before I order anything and waste my money. Otherwise I'm gonna go ahead and grab 30' of it and be done. FYI: I have a bad habit of overthinking things.
 

Popwarhomie
5,000+ posts

Team Lethal Pressure
11,501
3,149
Central FL
Knukonceptz 1/0 is rated 375 amps at 20 foot length. Is your alternator producing more than 375 amps? Then no need for 2/0.

Car audio wire is oversized compared to standard AWG rating. So welding wire 2/0 will be the same size as MOST car audio 1/0. I have ran EB flex welding wire for many years. Mainly because it's cheaper. These days the price is close to Knukonceptz and I prefer their wire for its flexibility. (Knu 1/0 is $4.75 a foot. EB flex 2/0 is $4.18) I have 1 run of 2/0 EB flex power and ground running to my rear battery. That's more than enough for my 320 amp alternator. All the rest of my wiring is Knukonceptz 1/0.
 
Last edited:

Doxquzme
Premium Member

Current build, 2012 Mazda 3 Hatch 2.5T
1,624
523
Boise, ID
I don't think there is good reason not to. I've got both the Knu and the Anchor 2/0 and the Anchor 2/0 is heavier per linear foot and it is thicker than the KnuKonceptz. I can use standard 1/0 connectors on the KnuKonceptz, cannot onthe Anchor 2/0. For the straight runs under my car to the rear, it's flexible enough and since it is a little cheaper, why not. it's a wash in the end as you end up needing additional 2/0 reducers too, something not needed with the KnuKonceptz. Either way, it's all good and it will get you where you wanna go.

Knu 1/0 on the left and the Anchor 2/0 on the right.
 

Attachments

  • Screenshot 2023-10-28 112037.png
    Screenshot 2023-10-28 112037.png
    75.2 KB · Views: 9
  • Screenshot 2023-10-28 113419.png
    Screenshot 2023-10-28 113419.png
    118.6 KB · Views: 7

djdilliodon!

CarAudio.com Elite
1,131
748
NY
Thing is I get multiple inputs stating different things. I have not worked with high current DC like this. I have however, worked in industry with high current, high voltage AC. Up to 1000hp 3 phase motors. But the wire in those situations is small compared to a car stereo. the 1/0 I have in my truck is twice the size as a 4160vac, 250hp motor. So right now I'm still trying to wrap my head around why I would need wire diameter big as a nickel for a few hundred amps. So at the moment I'm going to assume it's like in AC, where the larger higher voltage motors took smaller wire as opposed to the smaller hp motors that needed 4x the wire size.

That being said, I feel that 2/0 will suffice for my setup. One run to the rear battery and from there to a fused distribution block then to the amp. Is there something I'm not seeing?

If there is a good reason I should NOT, absolutely not use 2/0 please let me know before I order anything and waste my money. Otherwise I'm gonna go ahead and grab 30' of it and be done. FYI: I have a bad habit of overthinking things.

Fine stranded wire and solid stranded wire are very different. Solid stranded wire can handle more in the same size. Can’t really compare the two. If it was my car, I personally would do 2 runs of 1/0 but that’s just me. That is easily capable of handling 700+ amps and in the future if you ever upgrade (trust me you probably will 🤣), you will be fully prepared.
 
OP
?

.........

CarAudio.com Regular
243
38
...
I don't think there is good reason not to. I've got both the Knu and the Anchor 2/0 and the Anchor 2/0 is heavier per linear foot and it is thicker than the KnuKonceptz. I can use standard 1/0 connectors on the KnuKonceptz, cannot onthe Anchor 2/0. For the straight runs under my car to the rear, it's flexible enough and since it is a little cheaper, why not. it's a wash in the end as you end up needing additional 2/0 reducers too, something not needed with the KnuKonceptz. Either way, it's all good and it will get you where you wanna go.

Knu 1/0 on the left and the Anchor 2/0 on the right.
I don't mind using reducers. But wouldn't crimp ring terminals be better? Very solid and no chance of a set screw backing off. I can understand using them on an amp but to connect to a battery wouldn't you just use a side post and bolt? Is there a specific way it should be done?
 
OP
?

.........

CarAudio.com Regular
243
38
...
...if you ever upgrade (trust me you probably will 🤣), you will be fully prepared.
I assure you. This is the last car stereo system I will ever install in my own vehicles. This is set in stone.

And the price difference in 1/0 and 2/0 for 30' is only $14 difference. So 2/0 it is!
 
Last edited:

Doxquzme
Premium Member

Current build, 2012 Mazda 3 Hatch 2.5T
1,624
523
Boise, ID
I don't mind using reducers. But wouldn't crimp ring terminals be better? Very solid and no chance of a set screw backing off. I can understand using them on an amp but to connect to a battery wouldn't you just use a side post and bolt? Is there a specific way it should be done?
I only used them for the leads to and from the 2nd battery and inline fuses in the rear. I used 2/0 tin plated pure copper rings to connect to these near the battery under the hood.

Amazon product ASIN B06Y3T3YND
And of course samed tinned pure copper for the big three 1/0 upgrade.
 
Last edited:
Activity
No one is currently typing a reply...

Similar threads

Agreed. I've used some very fine cable for +REM connections because I had it laying around and have had issues with it failing. Good quality...
5
1K
Could not tell you, but you may want to start by going to crutchfield and get a consensus on the 7 or so replacements they recommend. That average...
1
389
Absolutely. I am always learning and think it's probably impossible to stop learning. I appreciate the advice and don't doubt for a second the...
56
2K

About this thread

.........

CarAudio.com Regular
Thread starter
.........
Joined
Location
...
Start date
Participants
Who Replied
Replies
61
Views
2,580
Last reply date
Last reply from
metalheadjoe
IMG_0381.png

DEW123

    Mar 3, 2024
  • 0
  • 0
1709406705908.png

Doxquzme

    Mar 2, 2024
  • 0
  • 0

Latest topics

Top