Help with my setup

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Siikdude

CarAudio.com Recruit
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So this is my amp https://www.taramps.com.br/en/produto/hd-3000-2-ohms/. It says @12.6 VDC at 2 Ohms: 3000 Watts Rms. And i have 2 skar zvx 12 V2 d2 Im thinking about probably getting a bigger amp does 6000 watt sound good for my 2 1500rms 3000max peak subs? Since I am under powering them with my 3000 2ohm amp.. And if I do get this 6000 watt amp could I be looking at a bigger alternator? And if so how much bigger? I'm thinking about possibly getting 4 skar zvx 12 V2 d2. So perhaps 12k watt amp.. I also have my 4500 amp for my speakers. I have a 2010 jeep wrangler 4 door with a stock alternator my battery is also stock.. So my lights dim when I use my subs and speakers.. And my new subs amp is only putting out 0.20 on my multimeter.. But its 14vdc to the amp. I have a 4awg kit with a 100a fuse that runs from my battery to the back into a distribution block with 2 leads one to a 4500watt amp and my 3000watt amp for my subs. Any reason why I'm only getting that 0.20 out my 3000watt amp?
 
Any reason why I'm only getting that 0.20 out my 3000watt amp?
Switch the multimeter to AC volts and play a 50 Hertz tone at your usual listening volume. I use one called Signal Generator I got free off the Playstore.
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I thought I just read a thread exactly like this one?? I may be seeing things with caffeine?? 👀 👀:poop:
😬Your not seeing things 😂 I want to know how much of an amp wattage I need for 2 and maybe for 4 skar zvxv2 d2 subs, one is rated at 1500rms and 3000 max peak. I also didn't get any info on what I should be looking for in a battery specs or an alternator specs? 😬 Ty for helping
 
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Always
I want to know how much of an amp wattage I need for 2 and maybe for 4 skar zvxv2 d2
Always go with RMS ratings on the subs and amps. Each sub at 1500 RMS will net you 6kW for the 4 ZVX, 3kW for 2.
For power, a guesstimate that has worked for me is 10 Watts RMS per Ampere. So 6,000w÷10=600a. So your fusing and wiring should be rated for 600 amps.
As for how much battery capacitance you need I have no clue. I am a low power user so have always only needed only 2 batteries with an 250a alternator.
 
Always

Always go with RMS ratings on the subs and amps. Each sub at 1500 RMS will net you 6kW for the 4 ZVX, 3kW for 2.
For power, a guesstimate that has worked for me is 10 Watts RMS per Ampere. So 6,000w÷10=600a. So your fusing and wiring should be rated for 600 amps.
As for how much battery capacitance you need I have no clue. I am a low power user so have always only needed only 2 batteries with an 250a alternator.
Oh okay thanks for the info I'll be looking to see how much I'm putting out of my battery and my alternator but from what I can tell my lights aren't supposed to be dimming so much so I will need an upgrade
 
Have you done 'the big 3' upgrade?
Thicker wire in battery, alternator, and ground under the hood?
If not that should be done regardless.
I haven't gotten to getting the Big 3 upgrade yet. bc I'm thinking about buying a different amp. I'm looking at the
taramp 8000 watts @ 1ohn which has a 4800 watts at 2ohms. I think this would be a better option for me in the future
adding more subs in my Jeep and from what I've read I'll need a 2/0 gauge instead for that kind of power. I have my
ground under my rear driver's seat. IDK if that's the best place. but seems to work just fine, and what do u mean by thicker wire in the alternator? does anyone know what I can do to my Orion cobalt cbt-4500 stuck on red light? I've used the same connections to power a different amp and works just fine.. but the Orion amp shows that's in protection mode. also, no fuses blown on it either? any idea?
 
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I haven't gotten to getting the Big 3 upgrade yet. bc I'm thinking about buying a different amp. I'm looking at the
taramp 8000 watts @ 1ohn which has a 4800 watts at 2ohms. I think this would be a better option for me in the future
adding more subs in my Jeep and from what I've read I'll need a 2/0 gauge instead for that kind of power. I have my
ground under my rear driver's seat. IDK if that's the best place. but seems to work just fine, and what do u mean by thicker wire in the alternator? does anyone know what I can do to my Orion cobalt cbt-4500 stuck on red light? I've used the same connections to power a different amp and works just fine.. but the Orion amp shows that's in protection mode. also, no fuses blown on it either? any idea?
I would pull that Orion amp and test it at the battery. ground to ground post and Poss to Poss post and use a jumper wire 14ga or half a speaker wire on the remote and touch to Poss to see if it comes out of protection mode for a simple quick way of testing not connected to speaker wires or the supply run and ground you have. If it stays in protect, there is an internal issue with the amplifier. If green or powers up fine? you either have a Supply run issue,Grounding issue,remote turn on issue from HU, or a possibility of Impedance issue from the subs.
as ive said for so many years.. It takes power to make Power. That 4ga isnt cutting it on Stock Electrical /Alternator and a single Stock Battery. You need some POWER/Supply for the Demand. Plain and Simple
 
The Big3 is a MUST and Battery bank as well as the Voltage supply to keep up with the demand. Its not going to be cheap, and cutting corners will not suffice
 
Double Check your wiring/Final Ohm load on the subs as well to make sure they are within the Limitations . Two DVC2 ohm subs should have a final Ohm load of 2 ohms, or 8 ohms for that Orion to work.. Not 1/2 Ohm load. Use a DMM to check each coil on your subs separately not wired to the amplifier. Pull them and check each coil to see if they are within the 2 ohm limitations of each coil.There are Plenty of YouTube Vids on how to check a subwoofer coil with a DMM properly

 
I haven't gotten to getting the Big 3 upgrade yet. bc I'm thinking about buying a different amp. I'm looking at the
taramp 8000 watts @ 1ohn which has a 4800 watts at 2ohms. I think this would be a better option for me in the future
adding more subs in my Jeep and from what I've read I'll need a 2/0 gauge instead for that kind of power. I have my
ground under my rear driver's seat. IDK if that's the best place. but seems to work just fine, and what do u mean by thicker wire in the alternator? does anyone know what I can do to my Orion cobalt cbt-4500 stuck on red light? I've used the same connections to power a different amp and works just fine.. but the Orion amp shows that's in protection mode. also, no fuses blown on it either? any idea?
If that Orion is not under Warranty, you can also open it up and see if there are any issues on the internals on the board such as blown Mosfets
 
Ty for all the info u have provided me with.. Ill be checking the amp with it.. And if it doesn't come out of protection mode I'll proceed with the other steps
 
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Siikdude

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