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Latest Posts
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Only disadvantage is not getting full range without the tweeter as most mid drivers that come with comp sets can play full freq, but arent very good at it. oh, and use the high pass filter in your deck, not the passive x-over -
By keep_hope_alive · Posted
The audio system has chassis grounds and signal grounds. Chassis grounds connect to outer metal and primarily provide a voltage reference for the power supply. Signal grounds are voltage references within the audio signal path and may or may not connect intentionally to chassis grounds. When we identify a ground loop, we are saying that there is unintentional current on the signal ground that should be on the chassis ground. Another issue is a floating signal ground in which the signal ground path is broken and looks like an antenna to the preamp circuit. -
By flhtci2006 · Posted
Yes, I know of this harness. Actually it could be purchased thru Kenwood for $55 +/- but, I can get a new amp for $30 more. I did purchase a harness for about $6 that is for the KAC-9106. Looking at the connector as drawn in the manual, it looks the same. But, thank you. -
By keep_hope_alive · Posted
Pacparts.com sells parts for amplifiers and head units, but that harness is pricey http://www.pacparts.com/model.cfm?model_id=KAC6406&mfg=Kenwood&back=0&action=list_part After you test the RCA output that is on the Pyle, you can just revise zone labels as I mention. -
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By Spider Monkey · Posted
Yea she got fucked up hard! Suspension broke halfway down the straight away and from there she was just in for the ride. -
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By jarreau2001 · Posted
Hello and thanks in advance for any advice, tips, or help. Let me start off admitting I am really confused about impedance and series / parallel wiring. I know what impedance is but not sure about how wiring plays into it. I have a 10DCVR122 Kicker box. It's a 2 ohm ported box with (2) 12" woofers. To power it I have a 2 channel Crunch AutoTek TA1250.2 amplifier (600 watts RMS @ 2ohms). I know it's a little amp but it's what I have. Anyhow, I'm using the speaker level input instead of RCA. Power, ground, and remote all seem to function fine. My issue is connecting the amp to the box. While there are two speakers in the box, there is only one connector on the box. My assumption is I needed to bridge the left and right terminals on the amp, but when I do that, I get no sound to the box. The only way I get sound to the box is if I hook up the right or the left. That sucks because then only one speaker is playing at a time (I think). How can I get both speakers to play simultaneously?
I do NOT have a multimeter. I have pics attached in case it helps. I'm thinking maybe the bridging is correct but the amp switches and levels need configuring. Any help is appreciated. -
By 1995Tercel · Posted
I finally got my 4 6.5" Polk db651 speakers amped, and I am disappointed. I hoped that amping would help with instrument separation, the midrange clarity, vocals (especially lower female) and overall hollowness of the sound. It only seems to have helped separation, and added a nice "rip" to 2-4k and siblant highs. I don't have enough money for really good speakers, so I figure I'll start with upgrading each 2-way door speakers to 4" components? I'm not concerned with volume, but smooth silky vocals, zero muddiness, and substance (not a thin hollow sound) From what I understand, many components come with a separate tweeter as well, and an external crossover? Thank you for your recommendations
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