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Audio System Setup

Found 8 results

  1. So I have 2 12s in my 01 suburban and my midbass is shit. Everything else is pretty good. No tweeters except in the 2 coaxials in my front 2 doors. 2 skar fsx65s in the rear doors. After I do the big 3 (current alt is 130 amp) and (maybe) a HO alt, I need to do a 4 channel (I think) to my doors. So what I'm asking is: Do I need a HO alt after I do the big 3? Current amp is 1200 watt rms, the DC 1.2k. Was planning on running 2 more skar 6.5s up front, so would be 600 more watts rms. Each 6.5 is 150 watts rms and I've got my kenwood Kmm-bt325u head unit running all of my door speakers. I disconnected all of my tweeters. Can I use a 2 channel for my door speakers or does it have to be a 4 channel? How do my tweeters fit into all of this? My head unit has crossover settings, so would I still need a signal processor? I have some epdm-1034 pond liner, 45 mil, unused from a jobsite that I was planning on using as MLV in my doors, good or bad idea? I have some pictures of what my system looks like on my page. Any comments are appreciated. Thanks!
  2. to whoever reads this, I am extremely naive on car audio. I have a 2014 Dodge Avenger with a 600W Kicker Amp with 2 12” Kicker Subs. They recently stopped working going in and out only staying on for maybe 3 seconds. I took it to a garage and they said my amp wasn’t strong enough everything kept going into safety mode. I want to upgrade but I don’t want to get ripped off due to me being naive. I want to get 2 15” inch subs, a compatible amplifier, and new tweeters. I’m not afraid to put down a decent amount of money I just don’t want to go over $2,000 for what I listed plus instillation. I got a rate for 2k for all of that stuff it would be tezla brand. I live in myrtle beach and during bike week I always hear cars with the deepest bass and loudest treble. I want to go deaf and I want to shake houses from a block away. I need suggestions on the best equipment to get
  3. View Listing Sundown SA-T V.2 silk dome tweeters Brand new, have never been powered sundown 1 inch silk dome tweeters with lock rings. 100 Watts RMS at HPF 3500 Hz/24 dB Silk Dome Tweeter for smooth sound Mounting Diameter: 1 5/8" | Mounting Diameter: 1 5/8" Tweeters are 100% brand new, just got them from Sundown after I fried a pair, cost me more than brand new to go that route but whatever, my loss is your gain! These are from the SA 6.5 CS components Price is shipped in the continental US of A. Advertiser Polar Date 04/02/2019 Price $90.00 Category Speaker Classifieds  
  4. i have the crescendo pwx 6.5 these are really good but i dont like that i limit them at 5600 hertz and want speakers more on the higher vocal area where theres https://gpcaraudio.com/deaf-bonce-apocalypse-ap-m60a-v2/ im not sure if ill hear a big difference or not where the deaf-bounce goes to 14000 hertz. would i get about the same amount of midbass or more with the deaf bouce? the pwx aint in any sort of enclosure its just in my door, someone told me it has to be properly enclosed to get any sort of real midbass but i feel my sub handles all the bass so whats the real point of midbass? might as well have my mids do some clear vocals. its being powered by a ppi900.4 at 4 ohms its suppose to be pushing 145rms. another question is if my pair of tweeters and mid speakers are running active to my amp how does my head unit know whats a mid and whats a tweeter when i do the crossover through the headunit? like if i set my crossover for my highs as low as 5600 and my midbass to 5600 to take over how does it know which speaker or channel is suppose to be at what hertz? and are bassblockers caps necessary for my tweeters?
  5. Time Left: 6 days and 3 hours

    • FOR SALE
    • NEW

    Brand new, have never been powered sundown 1 inch silk dome tweeters with lock rings. 100 Watts RMS at HPF 3500 Hz/24 dB Silk Dome Tweeter for smooth sound Mounting Diameter: 1 5/8" | Mounting Diameter: 1 5/8" Tweeters are 100% brand new, just got them from Sundown after I fried a pair, cost me more than brand new to go that route but whatever, my loss is your gain! These are from the SA 6.5 CS components Price is shipped in the continental US of A.

    $90.00

    Boca Raton, Fl

  6. Helloooooo Just to be clear i literally know nothing about car audio installations and i need help so i came here. I have a renault clio hatchback 2007 and i am wishing to install the skar audio spx-65c component system to the vehicle i dont want it to be runnning very loud, so i would like to stick to the stock amplifier if that is possible with the components i have brought (but only if it would work). Also how would i go about wiring up the external crossovers to the items that come stock in the car? and finally... what will i have to change / buy (besides from the mountings in the door) to make all the of this work? any help is greatly appreciated
  7. I have a 2009 Peugeot 207 and wish to upgrade the stock speakers as they are lacking quality and sound a bit tinny. I want to keep things as basic as possible so don’t want to be adding an amp, although this may be a possibility in the future. I want to keep the stock head unit which is an RD45 which from what I can find has 4x45W channels at 4ohms. I like the stock look but mainly it controls the clock and lots of the features so I don’t want to be messing with adaptors and losing functions. There is currently a stock 6.5” speaker in all 4 doors and 2 tweeters on the dash. I would prefer to get components for the front and replace the dash tweeters but the crossovers are causing me concern. I don’t really want to run the wires through door wire rubber if I can avoid it as I can remember it being a pain in previous cars and I now have issues with my hands. The stock tweeter currently has a capacitor soldered to it which I believe is to filter out the lower frequencies. - So my question is - can I install the crossovers on the doors for the door speakers and just use a capacitor on the tweeters? Or can I add a second crossover on the stock tweeter connection which I am guessing is connected to the same channel as the fronts? Or would I be better off getting coaxials for the front and unplugging the stock tweets all together? Or just man up and run the wires from the crossover in the door to the tweeter housings? Advice would be much appreciated. Thanks.
  8. I'm currently working on installing my own system to a 2016 Jeep Wrangler Unlimited. My stock system was getting on my nervs, from loud road noise (big mud tires) + an exhaust system, I couldn't hear $#!T So I decided to upgrade my component speakers to some temporary Kickers I picked up at Best Buy. I replaced all component speakers which are (4) 6.5's + (4) Tweeters. I just spliced the old wires and attached the new speakers, as they were not "Plug & Play". I've always wanted a decent set up, something with nice lows, mids, and highs. Originally the kickers were temporary until I could get something better, but fast forward a year later...I kind of like the sound of the kickers and wanted to know what I could do to improve the sound? As i'm building my sub set up, I will be adding a second amp for the components. Amp suggestions would be awesome, keeping in mind the tweeters + budget ($150) I'm just not sure if I should remove the Pioneer Tweeters (Pioneer TS-T110) since the Kickers are 2-way speakers (Kicker 44KSC6504)? Or if I should keep the tweeters and add some sort of cross-over? Any advice is appreciated!
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