PLEASE HELP


Dylan Woods

CarAudio.com Newbie
May 29, 2019
5
0
to whoever reads this, I am extremely naive on car audio. I have a 2014 Dodge Avenger with a 600W Kicker Amp with 2 12” Kicker Subs. They recently stopped working going in and out only staying on for maybe 3 seconds. I took it to a garage and they said my amp wasn’t strong enough everything kept going into safety mode. I want to upgrade but I don’t want to get ripped off due to me being naive. I want to get 2 15” inch subs, a  compatible amplifier, and new tweeters. I’m not afraid to put down a decent amount of money I just don’t want to go over $2,000 for what I listed plus instillation. I got a rate for 2k for all of that stuff it would be tezla brand. I live in myrtle beach and during bike week I always hear cars with the deepest bass and loudest treble. I want to go deaf and I want to shake houses from a block away. I need suggestions on the best equipment to get 

 

Charbel Bernaba

CarAudio.com Enthusiast
May 6, 2019
39
0
to whoever reads this, I am extremely naive on car audio. I have a 2014 Dodge Avenger with a 600W Kicker Amp with 2 12” Kicker Subs. They recently stopped working going in and out only staying on for maybe 3 seconds. I took it to a garage and they said my amp wasn’t strong enough everything kept going into safety mode. I want to upgrade but I don’t want to get ripped off due to me being naive. I want to get 2 15” inch subs, a  compatible amplifier, and new tweeters. I’m not afraid to put down a decent amount of money I just don’t want to go over $2,000 for what I listed plus instillation. I got a rate for 2k for all of that stuff it would be tezla brand. I live in myrtle beach and during bike week I always hear cars with the deepest bass and loudest treble. I want to go deaf and I want to shake houses from a block away. I need suggestions on the best equipment to get 
Well im a beginner too but let me tell you something dont ever go back to that garage. the amp has nothing to do it. going into safety mode usually are by voltage drops or bad grounding.

 
OP
Dylan Woods

Dylan Woods

CarAudio.com Newbie
May 29, 2019
5
0
Well im a beginner too but let me tell you something dont ever go back to that garage. the amp has nothing to do it. going into safety mode usually are by voltage drops or bad grounding.
I think they said it was bad grounding I’m not 100% sure I can’t exactly remember but they said it was ground wiring and my amp going into safety mode

 

Mooncatt

CarAudio.com Enthusiast
Apr 29, 2019
65
1
I think they said it was bad grounding I’m not 100% sure I can’t exactly remember but they said it was ground wiring and my amp going into safety mode
Ask them if they can dumb down the explanation for you, or at least get it in writing so you can share it here for us to help you understand it. It does sound like they are trying to make a buck if they told you the amp wasn't strong enough, but their explanation of why it's going into safety mode (a grounding issue?) could be right and things are lost in translation.

 

audiobaun

CarAudio.com Veteran
Jun 28, 2011
10,096
111
USA
Hmm,

Well..There are several ways to go deaf, and for less than $2k.00Car audio wise.. List your entire system that you currently have/radio,alternator brand serial # and amperage, supply wiring , speakers,ect. There could be a solution afterwards

 

DRBOOM

CarAudio.com Well Known
Nov 21, 2018
249
51
OK, so you got some issues with your sound system.  Who installed the gear in your ride?  If its a shop then you can cruise down there to get them check it.  Secondly, If you bought your ride with the system and you admitted to not having knowledge of how car audio works, then best solution for you is to check with your mates who can recommend a reputable car audio shop then you can take your car there to rectify the issue.

Once they rectify your issue,  and you are confident in their work, then you can have a chat about upgrading your gear with the 15 inch subwoofers.  Please list your current gear (if you know what you have), then we may have a better impression of issues and then based on that, a more accurate assumption can be made in your case.

Oh, the bass that shakes buildings and cracks the pavement,  that is called the 'loading' effect of a subwoofer inside a vehicle.  The treble you will only hear ones the vehicle is not blocked by any object, building, or people. :fro:

20150228_215150.jpg

 

Boomin_tahoe

Hurtin' feelings errrday.
10+ year member
Jul 24, 2005
15,249
132
WA
No such thing as safety mode....it's rather called protect/protection mode. Built in circuitry within the amp and causes a "fault" if it senses something wrong rather than completely destroying the amp. As for the installers telling you the amp isn't strong enough for the subs is complete horseshit. Since you didn't specify which Kicker amp and subs you got, hard to determine actual wattage. But should give you a little bass regardless. Now onto your issue/problem:

Several things could cause your amp to go into protect mode. 1) Too low of an ohm load. Wiring the subs lower than what the amp can handle it may not like it and Kicker amps or known to not like below it's recommended final ohm load. Typically Kicker amps run the most power @ 2 ohms but I think they're finally getting onto the 1 ohm models. 2) Bad connection within the power supply wiring. 3) Bad ground, as already stated. 4) Gain is set too high. 5) Insufficient wiring to the amp (power/ground, too small wiring). 6) Short within the subs wiring.

 
OP
Dylan Woods

Dylan Woods

CarAudio.com Newbie
May 29, 2019
5
0
No such thing as safety mode....it's rather called protect/protection mode. Built in circuitry within the amp and causes a "fault" if it senses something wrong rather than completely destroying the amp. As for the installers telling you the amp isn't strong enough for the subs is complete horseshit. Since you didn't specify which Kicker amp and subs you got, hard to determine actual wattage. But should give you a little bass regardless. Now onto your issue/problem:

Several things could cause your amp to go into protect mode. 1) Too low of an ohm load. Wiring the subs lower than what the amp can handle it may not like it and Kicker amps or known to not like below it's recommended final ohm load. Typically Kicker amps run the most power @ 2 ohms but I think they're finally getting onto the 1 ohm models. 2) Bad connection within the power supply wiring. 3) Bad ground, as already stated. 4) Gain is set too high. 5) Insufficient wiring to the amp (power/ground, too small wiring). 6) Short within the subs wiring.
I’m gonna get all the specs tonight but this is the subs I have https://www.kicker.com/dual-12-compr-subwoofer-box this is the amp I have https://www.kicker.com/cxa6001-600-watt-mono-amplifier

when I say I’m stupid with all this stuff I really am I have no idea what I’m talking about. the more I think about it I’d rather just have the current setup I have fixed (the links I just listed) I got it done at a garage so I guess I could have it looked at by the same garage again. The place I just had it looked at did tell me “something with your ground wire is messing up, the amp is going into safety mode because it’s not powerful enough to support the subs” I’ve had the setup for the past year tho and never had one issue. what it does is plays bass for 2 seconds, doesn’t play any for 15 seconds then repeats over and over. When I was in the garage they said my only solution is to buy a stronger amp nothing else would fix it, then I asked about how to make it crazy loud then gave me rates for all new equipment. It all sounded like horse shit the more I thought about it. I would like to get the same equipment working again. All my friends I’ve asked had said it could be a loose ground wire but I wouldn’t even know how to fix that😂

 

Boomin_tahoe

Hurtin' feelings errrday.
10+ year member
Jul 24, 2005
15,249
132
WA
600 watts/300 per sub and says they can handle 1k for the pair. Your underpowering them a little bit. Should have went with a bigger amp, such as the 1000 or 1500 watt one.

Going back to the "garage" (is it someone working out of one or an actual garage/shop combined) to have them fix the issue would leave me to believe they'd rather sell you more stuff than fix the issue.

 
OP
Dylan Woods

Dylan Woods

CarAudio.com Newbie
May 29, 2019
5
0
600 watts/300 per sub and says they can handle 1k for the pair. Your underpowering them a little bit. Should have went with a bigger amp, such as the 1000 or 1500 watt one.

Going back to the "garage" (is it someone working out of one or an actual garage/shop combined) to have them fix the issue would leave me to believe they'd rather sell you more stuff than fix the issue.
yes it was an actual garage shop. my only question is why would it work for a year and 2 months but just now start having issues? I have no problem buying a stronger amp but it sounds like bs for that to be the only problem. I know that none of you can actually take a look but Should I take it to a shop and tell them I want what I have fixed without buying any new equipment? or should I go head get a new amp and have a different more trustworthy shop install it for me?

 
OP
Dylan Woods

Dylan Woods

CarAudio.com Newbie
May 29, 2019
5
0
Update; I got everything fixed from the shop I had it installed at. The ground wire was perfectly fine, it was a burnt fuse and something to do with the rca cables they originally gave me. Shop I took it to was for sure trying to sell me because they took 25 minutes then said buy a stronger amp. Person I just took it to tested every last thing for 2 hours and made sure I understood everything

 
Last edited by a moderator:

Create an account or login to comment

You must be a member in order to leave a comment

Create account

Create an account on our community. It's easy!

Log in

Already have an account? Log in here.


Users Who Are Viewing This Thread (Users: 0, Guests: 1)



Trending topics

Latest classifieds