Help! Decent midbass? Too many to pick from..

[Highrankman]

So I am going to finish reworking my car audio set up inside my 2008 Pontiac Grand Prix and I have a couple of questions. My car had actually got broken into. I went to college and left my car at my house not having the slightest concert about theft. I got a phone call one day that my car was broken into. I thought it was a joke. I have a viper security alarm installed and I asked so how did you guys not hear it? Was the alarm not on? My family told me the remote for the alarm needed a battery so they left it unlocked. -.- I was so pissed (obviously). They took my amplifiers, subs, radio, and blew the speakers in the doors and rear. All that was left was the wire and my tweeters and crossover.( I had older JL VR600-Csi) My doors and trunk are already sound dampened. So that is my situation and I am now working from the bottom up. I have my subwoofer a 12w6v3 it will be in a ported enclosure tuned to 32hz build by cscstang //content.invisioncic.com/y282845/emoticons/smile.gif.1ebc41e1811405b213edfc4622c41e27.gif. I have some Alpine spe6000's that I found the junkyard for like $5 just to get by right now and actually came across some SPR 6x9 ( I got lucky) for the rear so my rear fill is fine. I am currently looking for a decent midrange driver for my front stage. There's just so many to pick from! I'm young and rather new to the whole car audio field so I'm seeking some advice on what to choose from. So here is the main question.

1) What would be a decently loud but mainly SQ mid bass driver to match my subwoofer?

I've been researching and the one I'm mostly leaning towards is Morel Maximo 6c, but I've also been looking at Infinity Kappa the Alpine Type r's, Focal Access, MB Quart Q and Image Dynamics Ctx. my budget is around 200 if i just want to get them and finish the front up soon. I was also looking at the JL Audio ZR's i'm wondering if there's THAT much of a difference between these and my cheaper alternative stated above. I wouldn't be able to but it all right now but i could purchase them piece by piece over time if it is really worth it. So my next questions are.

2)Is it really worth the money to spend on better mid bass and highs like the JL ZR's or is it not that much of a difference?

3) And should I buy like a matching set? Or can I piece things together like a good mid bass and a decent tweeter set?

I also have been looking into different types of setups and there are 3-way which I'm not really looking to do, but there are also some 8inch mid bass drivers I like the Rockford Fosgate ones and the Dayton RS225. My next question is-

4) Would 8inch mid bass drivers be a good consideration?

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[LosIsATool 5,000+ posts]

The C5s are better IMO. I don't care for them or any JL speaker set. The ZR800s where good but they are different.

A midrange that has good mid bass isn't cheap and install will make or break it. Not as simple as just sticking it in.

 

[Highrankman]

The C5s are better IMO. I don't care for them or any JL speaker set. The ZR800s where good but they are different.
A midrange that has good mid bass isn't cheap and install will make or break it. Not as simple as just sticking it in.

Why do you consider teh c5's better? And what do you mean exactly by they are different?

Yes ofcourse eq and balancing and everything but thats something to focus on after I actually have the equipment.

 

[LosIsATool 5,000+ posts]

Why do you consider teh c5's better? And what do you mean exactly by they are different?
Yes ofcourse eq and balancing and everything but thats something to focus on after I actually have the equipment.

Lol way more than EQing and balancing.

ZR tweeters are stupid bright. C5 is award winning and much more neutral. The ZR800 is a dedicated midbass not a midrange. One of the best out there 60-300hz. You don't want a large midrange if you care about more than output.

A 8 will beam faster than the tweeter can get low enough to prevent it. 6.5 is about as big as you want to go with a wide band tweeter that can play down to 2000hz.

 

[Highrankman]

Lol way more than EQing and balancing. ZR tweeters are stupid bright. C5 is award winning and much more neutral. The ZR800 is a dedicated midbass not a midrange. One of the best out there 60-300hz. You don't want a large midrange if you care about more than output.

A 8 will beam faster than the tweeter can get low enough to prevent it. 6.5 is about as big as you want to go with a wide band tweeter that can play down to 2000hz.

Ah, okay. What all is there to be done to make it a 'good' install?

Okay so a decent 6.5 and tweeter is the best bet. Which ones would be your recomendation?

I kinda want to try the c5's just to have matching speakers I guess its an ocd type thing lol. But theyre rather expensive and I wouldnt have the entire set soon.

 

[LosIsATool 5,000+ posts]

Ah, okay. What all is there to be done to make it a 'good' install?
Okay so a decent 6.5 and tweeter is the best bet. Which ones would be your recomendation?

I kinda want to try the c5's just to have matching speakers I guess its an ocd type thing lol. But theyre rather expensive and I wouldnt have the entire set soon.

What do you mean by entire set?

Focus on the fronts, that's where you want the most output, don't run rears unless you have a way to align them.

I'll link you 2 build logs that will give you a idea. The Accord is extreme. Mine is more "easy". Depending on your car will depend how far you need to go. Talking about the doors only for midbass.

As for drivers you need something that is strong down to 80hz at least. Like I said, that's not cheap.

 

[LosIsATool 5,000+ posts]

Extreme. http://www.caraudio.com/forums/car-audio-build-logs-cars-trucks-suvs/608637-2014-accord-sport-sq-build-keep_hope_alive.html

Not as extreme but similar type results. I also did the closed cell foam ring around the mid to door panel but no pictures. http://www.caraudio.com/forums/car-audio-build-logs-cars-trucks-suvs/614986-jesus-me-sq-build.html

 

[Highrankman]

What do you mean by entire set? Focus on the fronts, that's where you want the most output, don't run rears unless you have a way to align them.

I'll link you 2 build logs that will give you a idea. The Accord is extreme. Mine is more "easy". Depending on your car will depend how far you need to go. Talking about the doors only for midbass.

As for drivers you need something that is strong down to 80hz at least. Like I said, that's not cheap.

Set as in the tweeters, crossover and drivers for something more expensive I would buy the components/crossovers separately.

Yeah thats what im doing is just the front. And alright thanks.

 

[LosIsATool 5,000+ posts]

Set as in the tweeters, crossover and drivers for something more expensive I would buy the components/crossovers separately.
Yeah thats what im doing is just the front. And alright thanks.

If you really want to pop your cherry forget the passive crossover and run active. Crossed over before amplification.

Active HU, Processor, crossover, active capable amp

 

[big scott]

Extreme. http://www.caraudio.com/forums/car-audio-build-logs-cars-trucks-suvs/608637-2014-accord-sport-sq-build-keep_hope_alive.html
Not as extreme but similar type results. I also did the closed cell foam ring around the mid to door panel but no pictures. http://www.caraudio.com/forums/car-audio-build-logs-cars-trucks-suvs/614986-jesus-me-sq-build.html

that is a great build thread.

read up what he did to his doors.

there A LOT more to it then just bolting up speakers.

i spent 4 days doing my doors. and added about 100 lbs to each just to make my system sound great.

 

[LosIsATool 5,000+ posts]

that is a great build thread.
read up what he did to his doors.

there A LOT more to it then just bolting up speakers.

i spent 4 days doing my doors. and added about 100 lbs to each just to make my system sound great.

I still need to lay some MLV but I don't think it's needed. The old ford is very quiet. Suprisingly quiet.

 

[big scott]

I still need to lay some MLV but I don't think it's needed. The old ford is very quiet. Suprisingly quiet.

must be nice to have a new car..

my old truck needed all of it and then some.

but its a lot better. im almost done with all the deadening in the truck.

did the roof last week. now just need to get the back walls done.

anyway its getting there.

 

[LosIsATool 5,000+ posts]

must be nice to have a new car..
my old truck needed all of it and then some.

but its a lot better. im almost done with all the deadening in the truck.

did the roof last week. now just need to get the back walls done.

anyway its getting there.

They put felt in the wheel wells. Good platform for what I did for sure.

 

[Highrankman]

Alright, that's alot lol. Im just going to focus on one thing at a time first of which is choosing my speakers. I won't be going with the zr's maybe the c5's, but would the morel maximo 6c be a good decent woofer? Also, has anyone tried the rockford fosgate power speakers?

 

[T3mpest 10+ year member]

I still need to lay some MLV but I don't think it's needed. The old ford is very quiet. Suprisingly quiet.

MLV is a PITA, mostly trying to do vertical surfaces. Also, any gaps below the window line make it much less effective, wasting your time essentially. Whereas with deadening, even 50% coverage is still worth it for the amount it reduces vibrations..

If the car is already pretty quiet stock I'd leave it alone. I did a CTS last year and the difference wasnt' drastic, barely noticed it to be honest.