npal_77

CarAudio.com Newbie
Nov 21, 2020
4
1
Colorado
Hey everyone,

So I just recently switched my sub and amp to a car I just bought. It's a 05 Acura TL, which has a stereo that's difficult to remove and retain all channels/speakers. I tapped the stock subwoofer remote wire, ran that and my power to the back, tapped the stock sub's signal and ran it through a loc, and grounded the amp on the metal located under the carpeting in the trunk.

Here's the issue--when I turn the car on, the amp usually turns on and functions, yet after I'm driving or sitting with the car running for a few minutes the sub will cut out. The amp's (Alpine SA60m) blue power light will be slowly flashing until I either hit a bump on the road or physically hit the amp with my hand, at which point it turns back on--only to cut out again a short while later.

I checked my ground, checked my actual connections on the amp, no apparent problem. Can anyone point me in the right direction? Is it possible I have a bad ground location? or maybe one of my connections has to be cleaned/tightened? Any advice would be appreciated.
 

Dafaseles

CarAudio.com Newbie
Nov 12, 2020
9
2
510
It blinks blue? Not red? If it's blinking red, that means it thinks it's overheating...I can't find Jack about it blinking blue however
 
OP
npal_77

npal_77

CarAudio.com Newbie
Nov 21, 2020
4
1
Colorado
Yup, blue. I haven't found anything on it either, it's possible blue is the only color. Someone on another forum suggested I check the connections with a multimeter, I think I'll try that and see if that makes the problem apparent
 

Dafaseles

CarAudio.com Newbie
Nov 12, 2020
9
2
510
Another thing you could do is turn on the car, then maybe wiggle some wires or something to try and replicate the problem manually. Let's say you wiggle the power wire a little and the sub cuts out and it blinks blue, at least you'll know where the problem is coming from.
I know you checked it, but are you sure your ground is nice, tight, and as short as possible? Is the amplifier secured to the chassis with screws? I've heard of amplifiers grounding themselves out through the case by not being screwed correctly. Has it always had this problem in this car? Not another car or you've had it in this car for a while and it just started doing this out of the blue?
I would tend to think it's something with the amp because it fixes the problem when you give it a little wack. Something externally or internally I would think is loose or about to break. Not saying that's actually what's happening, just my 2 cents.
 

jrouter76

jrouter76
10+ year member
Apr 22, 2005
1,285
5
Mount Vernon ,Illinois
Hey everyone,

So I just recently switched my sub and amp to a car I just bought. It's a 05 Acura TL, which has a stereo that's difficult to remove and retain all channels/speakers. I tapped the stock subwoofer remote wire, ran that and my power to the back, tapped the stock sub's signal and ran it through a loc, and grounded the amp on the metal located under the carpeting in the trunk.

Here's the issue--when I turn the car on, the amp usually turns on and functions, yet after I'm driving or sitting with the car running for a few minutes the sub will cut out. The amp's (Alpine SA60m) blue power light will be slowly flashing until I either hit a bump on the road or physically hit the amp with my hand, at which point it turns back on--only to cut out again a short while later.

I checked my ground, checked my actual connections on the amp, no apparent problem. Can anyone point me in the right direction? Is it possible I have a bad ground location? or maybe one of my connections has to be cleaned/tightened? Any advice would be appreciated.
Well instead of dealing with factory hu and amp which seem to operate a little quirky then an Aftermarket system,you probably be better off getting an Aftermarket hu and rewire your system it will eliminate the problem you are having instead of tapping in the factory remote for the alpine amp just run your remote wire straight from Aftermarket HU, 2.) instead of a LOC run your wires from the unit to the speakers directly 3.)run you a set of RCAs to your Sub amp no need for LOC the less pieces of equipment the less chance of noise getting into your system plus doing this way may be time consuming but it gives you a piece of mind knowing you have it working perfectly,do it once do it right.
 
OP
npal_77

npal_77

CarAudio.com Newbie
Nov 21, 2020
4
1
Colorado
Another thing you could do is turn on the car, then maybe wiggle some wires or something to try and replicate the problem manually. Let's say you wiggle the power wire a little and the sub cuts out and it blinks blue, at least you'll know where the problem is coming from.
I know you checked it, but are you sure your ground is nice, tight, and as short as possible? Is the amplifier secured to the chassis with screws? I've heard of amplifiers grounding themselves out through the case by not being screwed correctly. Has it always had this problem in this car? Not another car or you've had it in this car for a while and it just started doing this out of the blue?
I would tend to think it's something with the amp because it fixes the problem when you give it a little wack. Something externally or internally I would think is loose or about to break. Not saying that's actually what's happening, just my 2 cents.
It did this sometimes in my other car, not nearly as often. I'll definitely try those things, although my initial instinct is it's the amp as well. I did remove and plug back in both of the fuses on the amp itself, and it turned solid after doing so, maybe that was the issue? We'll see if it continues to work or not
 
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OP
npal_77

npal_77

CarAudio.com Newbie
Nov 21, 2020
4
1
Colorado
Well instead of dealing with factory hu and amp which seem to operate a little quirky then an Aftermarket system,you probably be better off getting an Aftermarket hu and rewire your system it will eliminate the problem you are having instead of tapping in the factory remote for the alpine amp just run your remote wire straight from Aftermarket HU, 2.) instead of a LOC run your wires from the unit to the speakers directly 3.)run you a set of RCAs to your Sub amp no need for LOC the less pieces of equipment the less chance of noise getting into your system plus doing this way may be time consuming but it gives you a piece of mind knowing you have it working perfectly,do it once do it right.
That's definitely the goal eventually, although in this car there's some really odd wiring quirks that make it difficult to add an aftermarket head unit (usually you lose the center channel, i believe also the rear speakers? think they did it to make it difficult since they took so much pride in the stock system in this car).
 

jrouter76

jrouter76
10+ year member
Apr 22, 2005
1,285
5
Mount Vernon ,Illinois
That's definitely the goal eventually, although in this car there's some really odd wiring quirks that make it difficult to add an aftermarket head unit (usually you lose the center channel, i believe also the rear speakers? think they did it to make it difficult since they took so much pride in the stock system in this car).
For every roadblock there`s a workaround,I have a 2002 Chrysler 300M it came with the Infinity systemHU was easy a pie to replace ,so instead of connecting to the factory amp which powered all 7 speakers (separate tweets and mids in the front doors ,6x9s in rear deck and a center speaker in dash..this what I did I just bypassed all that factory sysytem,removed the factory Amp completely i got it sitting in my closet collecting dust,ran power wire straight from battery fused to HU ran Ground from HU to amp-power distro-block in trunk ,ran new speaker wires from amp to all speakers except the center-channel spkr no need for it,yeah it takes time but Im` a happy-camper no problems with the quirks of factory wiring and it sounds great oh I replace the factory speakers too with after-market much better quality. justsit down and draw up you a detailed plan of how and what you will start first.
 

jt4x4

CarAudio.com Well Known
Jul 22, 2019
233
66
ND
A good first step is always to borrow an amp from a buddy to install in place of yours.
 

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