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Found 18 results
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Audio randomly goes very loud on rear right speakers
Flashran posted a topic in Wiring, Electrical and Installation Help
Hi there, Ive bought a 2015 Yukon slt with an aftermarket setup that gives me some issues. From what I found out I have the Bose oem amp audio that goes to the JBL MS-8 and from there to an Alpine pdx v9. From the alpine using passive crossovers (1 for each front side and 1 for the rear 2nd and 3rd row. So 4 overall) to the speakers. There is also a single wire going to the front top speaker which I guess is for all the chime/blinkers sounds. my issue is that the audio will suddenly will play very load from the rear right speakers and the rest of the speakers will still play but very low. Basically all the phone calls that were once from the front left will be heard from the right rear as well. I will greatly appreciate if someone can direct me how to tackle this issue and find out which component is at fault( amps, sap, wires, crossovers and etc.) -
Not everything is pictured, like the Infinity MX20 I installed in the coin tray and the ashtray, or the JBL GTO19T in an empty button slot and center console, both of which are running on deck power from the Alpine UTE73BT as an add on because the Rockfords were inefficient. Just didnt want the channels to go to waste either. The Kicker Comp65VT sub pictured was blown in a couple days on only 100w rms with a subsonic filter. The box was made by LAB for a JL 6w3v3 tuned at 58 hz, so I bought one and a Kicker 140w rms amp and 50hz hp FMod filters. For 20-50hz I got a Kicker loaded ported 12 Solobaric 750w rms 2 ohm sub with an Alpine PDR M65 mono amp with 650w rms. For speakers I originally cheaped out and learned a couple things, Pioneer TS 6x9s make great bass(on deck power), better than the JL 6w3v3 at 30hz without a filter. The Rockford Prime 6.5 rated at 45w rms were given 40w rms front from an Alpine amp and didnt sound as good as the Pioneers on 18w rms in the rear, but are now on 40w rms and overpower the Rockfords. All 4 xo at 80hz hp now that I have the 2 subs. Hindsight, I should have gotten the whole 3 way Infinity components for the front, but I at least expected Rockford to be better than Pioneer. Anyone with 6x9s on the rear deck over a trunk, I highly recommend the Pioneers for cheap bass at 30hz. I would have bought the DX line with 110w rms each instead of the JL 6w3v3 if I had known. This is my first time on this forum and regret I didnt do more research instead of going crazy on Amazon one day with brands I thought I new. I'm hoping to get some critique from the OCD enthusiasts as I am on other forums that I'm knowledgeable on. My goal was an even frequency response from 20hz-20khz. Now I'm wondering about a surround sound processor lol.
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Hello, recently got a car (2000 Suzuki Wagon R+ 1.2) and not satisfied with the current audio setup. Bought an Alpine UTE-200BT head unit for Bluetooth connectivity and USB and fitted it, works a dream. However, I'm not satisfied with the current speakers in the car. From what I can find it only has two speakers in total, one on the driver's door and one on the passenger door. It definitely does not have a sub as the bass is gutless and doesn't improve when adjusted on the head unit. The car is about 18 years old so I didn't expect anything good but now that it's getting used more I need good tunes while I drive. I'm asking for suggestions on what I should get, nothing too crazy just better than standard and good bass and quality. I'm thinking of getting upgraded speakers in the front and also install speakers into the rear door panels as well as a sub in the boot. Is there anything I should be concerned about before I start buying parts. I'm a beginner when it comes to car audio, literally have no experience or any knowledge on car audio. Cheers, Kyle
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I have alpine type r 6x9’s and was wondering if I bought the alpine Xa-70f amp that’s rated for 120rms to run the speakers which call for 00rm but 600 watt max ? Thanks
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Higg Level Input 4 channel bridged
ddanko11 posted a topic in Wiring, Electrical and Installation Help
I want to bridge my 4 channle amp but I want to use it for left and right instead of front and rear I'm only concerned about the front stage with my amp and I'll use the the rear output of the radio to power my back door speakers, how would I do that since 1/2 bridged has a left and right and so does chan 3/4. would i just split front output and run all left to 1/2 then all right to chan 3/4 I wanted to bridge a 4 channel alpine amp the alpine mrv I have a touchscreen kenwood excelon just so you know. also how would I do this with high level inputs -
Hi. I'm trying to decide between the Alpine Type X or Type R 6.5" component system for my car. I will also be getting the same model (whatever I choose) for just 6.5" co-axials for my rear deck as well. All 4 of the speakers will be powered off Alpine's new Type X 4 channel amp (the X-A70F). Do the type X really sound that much better and are worth $200 more a pair than the type R's? Thank you.
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Hello I want to improve the audio quality in my car, diferent stores are offering to me different brand of components. I want the best audio quality, what model do you think is better? The option of speakers are: -Morel Tempo ultra 602 -Focal 165Kr -Alpine R-S65C My Car: Mercedes GL 450 already installed: Headunit: Kenwood excelon DNN9150 Amp: Rockford T600-4 (100W rms x 4 @ 4 ohm) Sub Amp: Rockford T500-1bd (500W rms x1 @1ohm) SUB: Rockford T1D210
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I have a Yukon 2003 that has 3 rows so space is tight between the 3rd row and the hatch rear door. I have no big three upgrade. I am using 4 Gage OFC from the battery to the fuse and CCA Gage from that point to a secondary battery that runs in parallel, the cca to amp. I run short grounds of CCA 4Gage from the battery to a threaded seat post that has had the zinc cleaned off so it is all metal to metal contact. I use a Alpine mrx1000 so 1000 rms monoblock to power a W6V3 and I have just bought a used W7 10" in a ported box. My concern is that I am not getting enough power but the the W7, it is rated at 750 rms. Should this system do for what I need? I have heard of Head units clipping , how do I know if mine is ? Am I getting enough power to the sub? I did hear some clipping when I was trying to tune my amp/ gain so I feel enough power did make it to sub but want to get your thoughts on this. Im just tryint to make sure that I am not bottlenecking or losing power.
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Number of subs preferred: 1 or 2 Size preferred (if configuration allows): 10" or 12" Budget: Maximum $180 per subwoofer Power to be used (which amp(s), include which resistance): will pick accompanying amp Goals: SQ > loudness. More torwards accurate, tight bass. I don't like muddy subwoofers, good transient response. Listening habits: Decent volume, but never to the point where my ears get fatigued or experience dizzyness. Preferred brands/subs/whatever: whatever sounds good. My friend has two pioneer 12" dual voice coil TS series (300W RMS), and while they sound awesome, they don't sound the most accurate, and don't have that much definition. I'm also wondering, Vas, FS, QTS and xMAX, ratings are valueable numbers to know, what each one means, and what are ideal ranges.
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Item(s) for Sale: ALPINE MRD-M1000 RUX-4280 Controller (2) "Y" split cable (1) 18' (1) RUX-4280 controller (1) MRD-M1000 Amplifier Item(s) Description/Condition: USED Excellent Functional (2) "Y" split cable USED Excellent Functional (1) 18' USED Excellent Functional (1) RUX-4280 controller USED wear / missing bezel covers 100% Functional (1) MRD-M1000 Amplifier I have this gear installed now and fully operational. So if you are local, I can give you a demonstration. Nothing is wrong. I just want to change it up. Price: $400 OBO Shipping and Miscellaneous Item Information: Shipped CONUS only Item Pictures: (List pictures in this section, 1st picture should be your username/date if you have less than 10 positive feedbacks with the i-Trader system or less than 10 references that you have sold to in the past. (These must be listed in your signature, or a link provided to a feedback thread listing these references)).
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Item(s) for Sale: Alpine 3331 EQ ...One of the best SQ EQs ever by Alpine Item(s) Description/Condition: A really nice Legendary Alpine 11 band slider Eq with subwoofer frequency and level control nice old school collectors item Price: $220 shipped CONUS Shipping and Miscellaneous Item Information: Included CONUS Item Pictures:
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Hi. I'm looking to buy a pair of Alpine Type R 6.5" speakers. They are rated at 100W RMS each at 4 ohms. I'm stuck deciding between two amps; one which puts out 85W at 4 ohms, or one that puts out 120W at 4 ohms. Of course it would be better to choose the one with higher wattage, but if I chose the 85W amp, how much would that effect the speaker performance? Any help would be appreciated. Thank you.
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Hi. The problem I am experiencing is that after 5-7 minutes of my music playing my subwoofer by itself decreases in volume as well as overall intensity. This problem pretty much only occurs when the car is at idle. This hardly happens while I'm driving around. This problem also happens after the same time frame after I stop driving and listen to my music while at idle. Once this volume drop happens it stays like this until I stop listening to music altogether for awhile, or I shut my car off and come back later (which is my assumption that the batcap is charging during this time). I cannot figure out my problem. This is everything I have in my system and what I have done so far to troubleshoot: I have a 2001 Saab 9-3 car. The subwoofer is a brand new Alpine R-W10D4 wired in parallel to 2 ohms powered by an Alpine MRV-M500 amp. This amp provides a little over 500 watts (which is in the correct RMS range for this sub). All of my power cable is 4 AWG OFC from the battery to my batcap, and from my batcap to my amp. My batcap is a XStatic Model 400 which says it's rated for 1,100 to 1,300 watts. My cable from my amp to my sub is 10 AWG OFC cable and all of the cables inside my sub box and cables connecting the voice coils are 10 AWG. The ground for the system is right next to the batcap and goes to a bolt at the bottom of a seatbelt (which is bolted to the frame; the bolt was hit with a wire brush to take off the paint). Mu heat unit is a JVC KD-A805 which was made in 2009. My alternator puts out 130 amps. My regular battery is only a year old and it is a Diehard Gold. Lastly, I used a multimeter to test the voltage of the system before this volume drop occurred and after it occurred (since it stays at this lower volume once it occurs) and the voltage remained the same the entire time. The voltage was from around 14.3-14.4 volts (the voltage did drop when other parts of my car turned on such as the fan to cool the radiator, etc. but then the voltage immediately went back to 14.3-14.4 volts). I did blow my last subwoofer, which was the exact same make and model, due to having incorrect wire gauges which caused my amp to clip (I thought it was right but I guessed since the cables had no AWG rating on them). So the amp clipping could have damaged it, but I don't know why everything would work great for 5-7 minutes and then get more quiet after, or while driving have it not happen at all. I spoke with XStatic specialists and a reputable car audio store near me multiple times and they believe it is either my amp, or the sub line out port on my head unit. I am out of ideas of where this could be coming from. If anyone could help me that would be greatly appreciated.
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Hi. I am running a brand new Alpine R-W10D4 subwoofer with an Alpine MRV-500 amp. The amp is at 2 ohms giving the sub a little over 500 Watts (according to the manual this is within the correct RMS range). I have 4 gauge cable running to a XStatic Model 400 batcap and 4 gauge wire running from that to the amp. I then have 10 gauge cable from the amp to the sub itself and all of the cables inside the sub box and connecting the voice coils are 10 gauge (each voice coil is 4 ohms and I have the sub in parallel to make it 2 ohms). My problem is the sub gets loser and quieter on its own randomly and the volume/intensity is drastically significant. I do not know what’s wrong. According to wiring charts all of the wires are the correct gauge. I have no auto EQ or volume feature on my deck either. This problem hardly happens when I’m driving, it happens most frequently when I am listening to my music when I’m not driving (car is at idle). It also seems to happen a few minutes after I stop driving and sit at idle. My alternator puts out 130 amps and the batcap I have is rated for 1,100 to 1,300 Watts. Does anybody have any ideas? Thank you.
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Hello, i have searched high and low have yet to find the correct or answers i want, so leads to this. I am starting off with a single type r 12 d4. Want it to be a single. I have looked and researched the mrp 500, 650 and the 110 (1000rms). I like it loud deep and crisp very picky how it sounds. (understand high watts don't mean loud) Looking for a recommendation for box dimensions with the recommended amp i have stated, something loud, deep and tuned low. Thank you.
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Headless setup (possibly) for 200w, controlled via computer/app with reduced power
oysterman posted a topic in General Discussion
Noob here so apologies for the weird title. I'm looking for advice on replacing my audio system on my boat, which currently runs through a W10 mini computer and Alpine head unit. Sorry if this post is a bit long but I wanted to be as explicit as possible, so here goes... All my music is on a 2TB external hard-drive, plugged into my mini-computer that runs Windows 10. I've always used Foobar2000 to manage my music collection because it can handle large libraries, plays every type of audio file and it has a great Android app. The headphone jack is then plugged into an Alpine Link Terminal (KCA410C), which in turn is plugged into the head unit, an Alpine CDA 9812RB (I think this is 150w). This allows me to take the two channels from the computer and split them into four. I have four speakers in the saloon and four in the cockpit, which I can switch between using external switches. This set-up has served me well for years but the head unit is now playing up and, more importantly, it's a PITA to turn the computer on every time I want to play music. Also it is adding to my current draw. I listen to music when the engine isn't on, so power consumption is an important factor. The head head unit draws around 1.1amp when on stand-by, the computer another amp or so and perhaps a little draw from the hard drive. 2-3 amps is manageable. I'd like to find a solution that allows me to avoid having to turn the computer on every time I want to listen to music. I was looking at the Raspberry Pi because it only requires 5v so I could feasibly leave that on all the time. Perhaps it could be set up so that I don't require a head and I can just flick a switch and it's ready to go? I'd like to get another head unit with 200w as I have speakers that can handle it. But one issue I have with buying a head unit is that I only ever use it as an amp. I don't need it to play CDs, it doesn't need a USB port in the front, and I don't use the radio. The only interaction with the head unit is to play with the front/rear balance and use a remote for volume. So then I thought perhaps I should be looking at a stand-alone amp, and that's where I start to get a bit confused. How could I run four speakers if a Pi is plugged directly into it from its headphone socket? Is this even sensible? Maybe the Pi is a bad idea due to interference? And a Pi won't run Foobar (easily) so I'd need to find a replacement jukebox system that can play all audio files and have an Android (or Apple) app to control it from. And just to throw a spanner in the works - I still need something to play films (I use Kodi) and that still has to go through the head unit. I'm not bothered about current draw when watching movies because I only do that when plugged in to shore power or when the batteries are fully charged (i.e. not often). In my mind I thought I could separate the music from the movies and have two different systems (a Pi for music and the mini computer for films) but they'll still need to go through the same amp/head unit. Perhaps there is something out there that does exactly what I want that I'm just not aware of. Any recommendations or suggestions? Budget around $400. Appreciate any feedback, thanks. -
Item(s) for Sale:Alpine cda 9886 with remote and aux adapter Item(s) Description/Condition:Good condition, the volume knob is just alittle sticky not really bad but its there... and some of the buttons are faded out but still visible. Price:$100.00 Shipping and Miscellaneous Item Information: Ive had this radio for alittle bit and its honestly the best sounding radio i have ever had in my life coming from pioneers, kenwoods, jensens, etc. etc. The sound doesnt get any better than this but i want bluetooth built into a radio so i must sell =/ I will never switch from alpine to another brand though lol. Anyways it comes with usb adapter, aux adapter that i bought seperately works great btw, a remote that works great, and everything works on the radio no issues at all. Im selling for 100 because i saw the radio going for over 150 on ebay so i believe its a rare radio a buddy of mine told me the reason why its that expensive is because when it came out it was top of the line for alpine over 600 dollar radio at the time in either 09 or 10 cant remember for sure. Item Pictures: (List pictures in this section, 1st picture should be your username/date if you have less than 10 positive feedbacks with the i-Trader system or less than 10 references that you have sold to in the past. (These must be listed in your signature, or a link provided to a feedback thread listing these references)).
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Hey all I'm new here, I'm going to be building a box and installing soon, do you think the build will be able to flex my SUV at all? Not planning to sound proof, maybe later. Specs: -Alpine PDX-F4 - 4x100rms 4 channel -MRX M110 - 1100 rms -Alpine SPR 60C/SPR60 - 110rmsx4 -Alpine SWR 10D4 - 500rms x2 Box Specs: -Downfire Position -Box Freq. / Volume - 32 / 1.75 08' Ford Escape [ATTACH]26556146[/ATTACH]
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