Silverado DDZ build

[Tripn88]

***UPDATE***
I'd compare them to a horny little asian schoolgirl with no lube

fix

I've been to japan... They aren't as tight as you think... And I was highly disappointed that they weren't sideways like I was told.

 

[adulbrich 5,000+ posts]

I've been to japan... They aren't as tight as you think... And I was highly disappointed that they weren't sideways like I was told.

lol, ok then. They're tighter than a virgin schoolgirl. Better?

 

[Jeffdachef 5,000+ posts]

[quote name='adulbrich']
Tantric, but yeah I get you were joking
[/QUOTE]

No, DC recones are horrible too ask @CSCStang

[quote name='Tripn88']I've been to japan... They aren't as tight as you think... And I was highly disappointed that they weren't sideways like I was told.[/QUOTE]

[quote name='adulbrich']lol, ok then. They're tighter than a virgin schoolgirl. Better?[/QUOTE]

yeah white chicks are actually tighter. No bush either.

 

[adulbrich 5,000+ posts]

White chicks are the best //content.invisioncic.com/y282845/emoticons/fyi.gif.9f1f679348da7204ce960cfc74bca8e0.gif

 

[ChaseinBass]

White chicks are the best //content.invisioncic.com/y282845/emoticons/fyi.gif.9f1f679348da7204ce960cfc74bca8e0.gif

Good to see things looking a little better today huh ? Hows it playing ? loud ?

 

[Mitch86 5,000+ posts]

Good to know one of the recones worked out.

Better be super careful slamming on that one in that huge box!

 

[adulbrich 5,000+ posts]

Good to see things looking a little better today huh ? Hows it playing ? loud ?

Yup, but it's not as loud as I'd like. I'm wired twice as high as I will be normally, because it's just one sub. Sounds good, but now I need to quiet the squeaks/rattles made by interior pannels at low volume.

Full tilt, you can't hear the plastic panels rub together, but daily listening you can :/

Good to know one of the recones worked out.
Better be super careful slamming on that one in that huge box!

Yup, but I'm still wanging. It's wired up to 1.4 ohms nominal, so it's not seeing a ton of power after rise anyways

 

[hispls 5,000+ posts]

Does a dd z really have that tight of a gap? Or did murph build the recones with wrong size coil?

DD subs should use a tight gap, but it's more likely he didn't use the right size coil. I build '05 sigs and can use 2 playing cards all around the pole piece to shim and that's "tight" compared to most stuff.

***UPDATE***
One of the recones is fine. Hopefully shipping the other one off tomorrow to be fixed. One sub is in and playing with no more audible noise. Plugged the hole with a slightly larger circle cutout, screws, and duct tape around the seam. Super ghetto, but it pounds for now.

One was actually fine. I don't know why it wasn't last night.

You have no idea how difficult it was to shim it. I had trouble fitting two sheets of paper vertically in for shims. I don't know of any subs with tighter gaps, so there was very little room for error.

Took a video today. Not really sure if I can upload it to photobucked because the file is so large. We have poverty internet, and it would most likely take hours.

Tantric, but yeah I get you were joking

Yep, thanks. It was an awful feeling

Possibly both, but it's insanely tight.

I'd compare them to a horny little asian schoolgirl with no lube

Definitely feel better about it today, because at least I've got something and it'll only cost about $100 plus a couple weeks or so to fix

You got hosed if they are actually that tight. 2 sheets of paper is not enough space to allow for the coil expanding when you heat it and will likely become an issue rubbing if turbulence inside the box tries to push those cones unevenly. It's not "the gaps are too tight" it's that you used the WRONG COIL! My guess that even the one that "works" will not last long if the coil is as tight as you say.

If you are careful with a chisel or even a wide flat head screwdriver you might be able to pry up the spider from the landing and re-glue (assuming you didn't misalign the cone too badly). You'll need to pry off the dustcap as well which will probably look ugly when you're done. If you're very very careful you may even be able to chisel the surround off of the frame and keep that intact enough to re-glue the whole thing.

The takeaway here is that you should probably build them up from parts yourself (where maintaining proper alignment is much easier) or buy the correct parts from DD.... and that Tantric did not give you a right sized coil.

Do you have measurements of the gap empty? I'm guessing it can't be any tighter than the subs I've built and the problem isn't the gap, but a coil that is too large for that gap!

Quit screwing around, quit making excuses for Tantric, and just order the correct parts from DD already.

Also, what is your "rise"? Can you post an impedance graph?

 

[adulbrich 5,000+ posts]

DD subs should use a tight gap, but it's more likely he didn't use the right size coil. I build '05 sigs and can use 2 playing cards all around the pole piece to shim and that's "tight" compared to most stuff.


You got hosed if they are actually that tight. 2 sheets of paper is not enough space to allow for the coil expanding when you heat it and will likely become an issue rubbing if turbulence inside the box tries to push those cones unevenly. It's not "the gaps are too tight" it's that you used the WRONG COIL! My guess that even the one that "works" will not last long if the coil is as tight as you say.

If you are careful with a chisel or even a wide flat head screwdriver you might be able to pry up the spider from the landing and re-glue (assuming you didn't misalign the cone too badly). You'll need to pry off the dustcap as well which will probably look ugly when you're done. If you're very very careful you may even be able to chisel the surround off of the frame and keep that intact enough to re-glue the whole thing.

The takeaway here is that you should probably build them up from parts yourself (where maintaining proper alignment is much easier) or buy the correct parts from DD.... and that Tantric did not give you a right sized coil.

Do you have measurements of the gap empty? I'm guessing it can't be any tighter than the subs I've built and the problem isn't the gap, but a coil that is too large for that gap!

Quit screwing around, quit making excuses for Tantric, and just order the correct parts from DD already.

Also, what is your "rise"? Can you post an impedance graph?

I'm not lying about the gap being that tight. I just shipped the bad one to 72impala, who will attempt to fix it for me. He has been doing this a long time, and if you don't believe me, he can verify it for you. Yes, it is in fact that tight.

I don't have measurements, but he can get some when it's apart

I don't have enough money left for DD recones. Murphy would not refund me my money, SO IT WAS EITHER GET THESE RECONES OR GET NOTHING!!!!! HOW MANY TIMES DO I HAVE TO FUCKING SAY IT. IF YOU WANT TO BUY ME DD RECONES THEN PLEASE DO. IF NOT, QUIT YOUR BITCHING!!!!!!!

I'm not making excuses for tantric. I just don't want to blame someone else if I'm not 100% sure it's their fault. K?

No, I'm not going to graph my fucking impedance. You ask that all the time

 

[hispls 5,000+ posts]

Does a dd z really have that tight of a gap? Or did murph build the recones with wrong size coil?

***UPDATE***
One of the recones is fine. Hopefully shipping the other one off tomorrow to be fixed. One sub is in and playing with no more audible noise. Plugged the hole with a slightly larger circle cutout, screws, and duct tape around the seam. Super ghetto, but it pounds for now.

One was actually fine. I don't know why it wasn't last night.

You have no idea how difficult it was to shim it. I had trouble fitting two sheets of paper vertically in for shims. I don't know of any subs with tighter gaps, so there was very little room for error.

Took a video today. Not really sure if I can upload it to photobucked because the file is so large. We have poverty internet, and it would most likely take hours.

Tantric, but yeah I get you were joking

Yep, thanks. It was an awful feeling

Possibly both, but it's insanely tight.

I'd compare them to a horny little asian schoolgirl with no lube

Definitely feel better about it today, because at least I've got something and it'll only cost about $100 plus a couple weeks or so to fix

No, and it wasn't the connection to the lead.


That ended up not being the problem.

The gaps were so tight I could only fit two pieces of paper in as shims. Something like this was probably too much for my first recone job and I should have been more careful/patient.

When I push up from the bottom side on one side of the cone, it plays fine. No idea what's wrong, and I probably fucked up the recone. Any way I could possibly fix this or is it done?

I'm not lying about the gap being that tight. I just shipped the bad one to 72impala, who will attempt to fix it for me. He has been doing this a long time, and if you don't believe me, he can verify it for you. Yes, it is in fact that tight.
I don't have measurements, but he can get some when it's apart

I don't have enough money left for DD recones. Murphy would not refund me my money, SO IT WAS EITHER GET THESE RECONES OR GET NOTHING!!!!! HOW MANY TIMES DO I HAVE TO FUCKING SAY IT. IF YOU WANT TO BUY ME DD RECONES THEN PLEASE DO. IF NOT, QUIT YOUR BITCHING!!!!!!!

I'm not making excuses for tantric. I just don't want to blame someone else if I'm not 100% sure it's their fault. K?

No, I'm not going to graph my fucking impedance. You ask that all the time

I repeat, 2 sheets of paper wiggle room in the gap is not the gap's fault but the wrong coil. Even if you align it perfectly it will give you trouble when you heat it up. I'd like to see 72's observation on this, but I'm telling you that you need more space than that just to allow for expansion of the metal as it heats. Get a second opinion then start a buyer beware thread. By my estimation it's looking like you got ripped off and it's unacceptable. Getting the wrong parts is worse than getting nothing at all because now you're out shipping the stuff to 72 and you wasted glue and time.

Also, post gap and coil measurements when you can get them and let the community here be the judge. I'm just saying it's likely not your error in assembling and even if you get them "fixed" you'd better start saving for the correct parts because too big coil won't last long.

If you have never seen the impedance curve don't assume anything about your "rise".

 

[adulbrich 5,000+ posts]

I repeat, 2 sheets of paper wiggle room in the gap is not the gap's fault but the wrong coil. Even if you align it perfectly it will give you trouble when you heat it up. I'd like to see 72's observation on this, but I'm telling you that you need more space than that just to allow for expansion of the metal as it heats. Get a second opinion then start a buyer beware thread. By my estimation it's looking like you got ripped off and it's unacceptable. Getting the wrong parts is worse than getting nothing at all because now you're out shipping the stuff to 72 and you wasted glue and time.
Also, post gap and coil measurements when you can get them and let the community here be the judge. I'm just saying it's likely not your error in assembling and even if you get them "fixed" you'd better start saving for the correct parts because too big coil won't last long.

If you have never seen the impedance curve don't assume anything about your "rise".

Ok, but even if it was the wrong sized coil, I doubt I can get my money back. My only chance would be telling Jeff Hulbert at CACO that my claim with Murphy wasn't resolved and I need my money back because it was the wrong coil. Murphy was banned from CACO a couple days ago. People who have current disputes with him are supposed to contact the moderators. He won't be allowed back or get his vendor status back unless he resolves all the pending disputes.

How exactly would I go about mapping the impedance?

I saw somebody's rise with the 4" coil Z's and it was 13+ ohms starting at .5

I'd like to get another Taramps 20k when I save up enough money, and if I could wire it lower, that would be great

 

[hispls 5,000+ posts]

Ok, but even if it was the wrong sized coil, I doubt I can get my money back. My only chance would be telling Jeff Hulbert at CACO that my claim with Murphy wasn't resolved and I need my money back because it was the wrong coil. Murphy was banned from CACO a couple days ago. People who have current disputes with him are supposed to contact the moderators. He won't be allowed back or get his vendor status back unless he resolves all the pending disputes.

How exactly would I go about mapping the impedance?

I saw somebody's rise with the 4" coil Z's and it was 13+ ohms starting at .5

I'd like to get another Taramps 20k when I save up enough money, and if I could wire it lower, that would be great

I'd consider that the wrong coil. But wait for 72 to post some measurements of the gap and coil before you actually add to the "I got scammed" section.

Dayton DATS (at Parts Express) is the correct tool to find TS parameters on speakers and to do impedance graphs. Alternately if you have a current clamp, set your volume so that you have 10V (for simplicity of math) at all frequencies, then measure current (keeping that level of output). Use Ohm's law to solve for Z and plot it out on graph paper. Don't cheat and try to skip 5 cycle increments, do every frequency, the difference between a couple cycles can be big with a low Q driver. In the olden days we used to have to plot impedance curve like that (twice) to find TS parameters of unknown drivers. To calculate Vas you'll need a known-volume sealed box, or some known value masses (6oz fishing weights work pretty well)

By all accounts you do NOT want to play around with low impedance with Brazilian amps. Totally not worth the risk for what you'll gain.

 

[adulbrich 5,000+ posts]

I'd consider that the wrong coil. But wait for 72 to post some measurements of the gap and coil before you actually add to the "I got scammed" section.
Dayton DATS (at Parts Express) is the correct tool to find TS parameters on speakers and to do impedance graphs. Alternately if you have a current clamp, set your volume so that you have 10V (for simplicity of math) at all frequencies, then measure current (keeping that level of output). Use Ohm's law to solve for Z and plot it out on graph paper. Don't cheat and try to skip 5 cycle increments, do every frequency, the difference between a couple cycles can be big with a low Q driver. In the olden days we used to have to plot impedance curve like that (twice) to find TS parameters of unknown drivers. To calculate Vas you'll need a known-volume sealed box, or some known value masses (6oz fishing weights work pretty well)

By all accounts you do NOT want to play around with low impedance with Brazilian amps. Totally not worth the risk for what you'll gain.

Yeah, I'll wait for a verdict first.

I may buy that dayton equipment some time

There is voltage rollloff with this amp as frequencies get lower, so that test would not be possible

 

[hispls 5,000+ posts]

Yeah, I'll wait for a verdict first.
I may buy that dayton equipment some time

There is voltage rollloff with this amp as frequencies get lower, so that test would not be possible

How about without HPF? You can still measure both voltage and current and divide... it's just easier/faster with a constant voltage, easier still with a voltage of 10 which makes for very easy division.

 

[wew lad 5,000+ posts]

you're not the only one having issues lol the guy whos been trying to build my box for my ext cab screwed up a couple things the first time around... didn't double baffle like i asked (really, a 54 inch long piece of 3/4 mdf single baffle?), and the box didnt plain fit like it was supposed to even though i gave him my own box that custom fitted by silverado perfect. he just had to match the cutouts... the box sat like 4 inches forward with a huge gap from the back of the box to the back seat and it didnt even sit flat, there was 2-3 inches on each side completely off the carpet. the octo he built was really great, but the hole he cut wasnt an octagon it was a circle, so the first 4 screws he put in didnt even grab wood it just went right through.

im pretty happy i didnt try to build this myself lol car audio is a huge clusterfuck of frustration when you want anything done right. im used to it and i dont even have anything that complicated