Recommendations for slim powered underseat subwoofer 2022 Silverado

[Doxquzme Premium Member]

Here is the stinger manual for size reference on the various models.

https://cdn.shopify.com/s/files/1/0284/9259/5245/files/MCAMP-IG_REV_102622.pdf?v=1668805214

Every 4-6 months, a brand launches a good product that is relatively inexpensive. Right now, that's Stinger. As they gain more and more traction in forums and social media circles, the price will undoubtedly go up.

 

[DJin TX]

The Alpine 200M is woefully underpowered and the Kicker is no longer offered at Crutchfield - interestingly enough. If you are purchasing from Crutchfield, they are most often going to suggest only brands that they sell, as they should. Unlike myself or others in this forum, they don't have working knowledge of any but what they sell, and that is less likely to be anywhere near the knowledge base you'll get here. From Crutchfield, $250 and under, I would get the following - in order of preference:

Though not a fan of the spade connections, good power, subsonic filter​

Sony XM-GS100

Mono subwoofer amplifier 600 watts RMS x 1 at 2 ohms

www.crutchfield.com

As already discussed, good power, and the same brand as the sub, but DOESN'T have a subsonic filter which I think makes a difference in your configuration, it's still a good product.

Alpine S2-A60M

S-Series mono subwoofer amplifier — 600 watts RMS x 1 at 2 ohms

www.crutchfield.com

Decent power and because it looks cool, no subsonic filter​

Infinity Reference 6001A

Reference Series mono subwoofer amplifier — 600 watts RMS x 1 at 2 ohms

www.crutchfield.com

Another Harmon industry production:

JBL Stadium 600

Mono subwoofer amplifier — 600 watts RMS x 1 at 2 ohms

www.crutchfield.com

Now, the other options that are similar in size and performance are under $250 that I would prefer over any of the afore mentioned:

Power, features (subsonic filter) build design, price

More than you'll ever need, extra should you decide to upgrade sub someday, and because it packs 500 extra (can't ever have too much, relatively speakering) watts into a small package for only $20 more than the next choice​

Amazon product ASIN B0BN2BG2M1
Next:

Power, features (subsonic filter) build design, price

Amazon product ASIN B0BN25MG9N
Next:

Just enough power, features (subsonic filter) build design, price

Amazon product ASIN B0BMVXC6HZ
My, well, your 2 cents...

In researching amps, I’m reading that for the alpine s series (ss-sb12) that is rated at 300 watts RMS, that I should not get a monoblock amp that is higher than 300watts rms as it’s too much for the sub and would push it too hard and lead to damage. Do you agree? Also regarding that kicker amp that crutchfield recommended, 46CXA400.1T, they do appear to carry it still. So I’m wondering if I made a typo when I listed it before. Does this seem like it would be good for this sub? Any other 300watt recommendations?

Kicker 46CXA400.1T

CX Series mono subwoofer amplifier — 400 watts RMS x 1 at 1 ohm

www.crutchfield.com

 

[audiobaun 5,000+ posts]

My Head hurts. Head Room Is always better than max or right at rms

 

[Doxquzme Premium Member]

Think of it in terms of a truck's horsepower. For the same investment, would you rather get something that "just meets" the requirements for towing a trailer or something that can haul twice as much? It allows you to be a little more conservative when setting the gains and allows the amplifier to breathe a little better when called upon. My amplifier has triple the rated power output that my two 13" subs can handle. Combined they are rated to handle 500 watts each (1000 watts combined), and my amp puts out 3000 watts. It's always better to have spare room (headroom) to allow the amplifier to perform at its best. The stinger MT1001 or the MT15001 would be my choice for this situation. The MT7001 will do fine but why bother when for $15 you can have an extra 300 watts. You'll likely never push this sub beyond its limit.

 

[DJin TX]

Think of it in terms of a truck's horsepower. For the same investment, would you rather get something that "just meets" the requirements for towing a trailer or something that can haul twice as much? It allows you to be a little more conservative when setting the gains and allows the amplifier to breathe a little better when called upon. My amplifier has triple the rated power output that my two 13" subs can handle. Combined they are rated to handle 500 watts each (1000 watts combined), and my amp puts out 3000 watts. It's always better to have spare room (headroom) to allow the amplifier to perform at its best. The stinger MT1001 or the MT15001 would be my choice for this situation. The MT7001 will do fine but why bother when for $15 you can have an extra 300 watts. You'll likely never push this sub beyond its limit.

I clearly have very little knowledge in this arena, but commenting on your truck analogy… the way I think about my question (which may be wrong) but if I have my spare tire on and it is rated at speeds up to 55 mph, I certainly do not want to go 120mph while the spare is on. Also the fact that crutchfield reps are recommending not going over 300 watts RMS, there must be some reason for this. They would make more money if they push me to get a bigger more expensive amp. Keep in mind I have no idea about setting gains and crossovers and etc. that is all unfortunately gibberish to me.

 

[Doxquzme Premium Member]

You'd most certainly prefer to pull a 1-ton load with a truck that can pull 2 tons with ease, different altogether than tires, different relationships, different jobs. Would you use a 500lb wench to pull out a 500lb load, sure, but wouldn't you feel better using a 1000lb wench if it didn't cost you any more? Of course, you would. with few exceptions, I know as much as ANYONE at Crutchfield when it comes to this particular subject, not bragging but been doing this since before many of them were born. Don't get me wrong, they are great for recommending their products, especially adapters, harnesses, and the like. Why they would tell you what they did? It's simple, liability. Unlike you, many don't find or don't know about forums like this and rely solely on places like Crutchfield to advise them on what is best. If they recommend something that exceeds the woofer-rated power, they open themselves up to you setting gains improperly and overpowering the woofer. You are actually more likely to damage a woofer using an "adequate" amplifier when pushed as opposed to an amplifier that is much more capable. On that note, the same rated Michelin is not the same as some Chinese-made off-brand with the same air pressure rating. One will suffice, the other is just better. Longer wear, better ride, PERFORMANCE is much better. Unlike many commodities, amplifier power for dollars' has changed dramatically in the last 10-15 years. Quality wastage is dirt cheap (comparatively) these days. My first Linear power amplifier at 100x2 cost me $299, in 1983 and it was one of the most powerful amplifiers out there at the time. You'll need to learn or get assistance with setting the gains and crossovers as regardless of what amp you get, it's important and needs to be done right. Crutchfield is not telling you anything wrong, but it's not quite right. I have zero vested interest in selling you anything, just giving advice based on 40 years in the industry.

 

[DJin TX]

Ok

You'd most certainly prefer to pull a 1-ton load with a truck that can pull 2 tons with ease, different altogether than tires, different relationships, different jobs. Would you use a 500lb wench to pull out a 500lb load, sure, but wouldn't you feel better using a 1000lb wench if it didn't cost you any more? Of course, you would. with few exceptions, I know as much as ANYONE at Crutchfield when it comes to this particular subject, not bragging but been doing this since before many of them were born. Don't get me wrong, they are great for recommending their products, especially adapters, harnesses, and the like. Why they would tell you what they did? It's simple, liability. Unlike you, many don't find or don't know about forums like this and rely solely on places like Crutchfield to advise them on what is best. If they recommend something that exceeds the woofer-rated power, they open themselves up to you setting gains improperly and overpowering the woofer. You are actually more likely to damage a woofer using an "adequate" amplifier when pushed as opposed to an amplifier that is much more capable. On that note, the same rated Michelin is not the same as some Chinese-made off-brand with the same air pressure rating. One will suffice, the other is just better. Longer wear, better ride, PERFORMANCE is much better. Unlike many commodities, amplifier power for dollars' has changed dramatically in the last 10-15 years. Quality wastage is dirt cheap (comparatively) these days. My first Linear power amplifier at 100x2 cost me $299, in 1983 and it was one of the most powerful amplifiers out there at the time. You'll need to learn or get assistance with setting the gains and crossovers as regardless of what amp you get, it's important and needs to be done right. Crutchfield is not telling you anything wrong, but it's not quite right. I have zero vested interest in selling you anything, just giving advice based on 40 years in the industry.

i appreciate your input and just know that I my reply was not intended to malign your recommendation or your knowledge, just asking questions to try to learn a little bit and make a good decision. It’s a pretty overwhelming task to say the least, a million different brands and models and features and wattages and ohms, etc. it almost feels like I should blindfold myself and pick at random because everyone has their own opinions on the right way forward. Information overload for sure. I do appreciate all the to mm e you have taken trying to educate me.

 

[Doxquzme Premium Member]

Oh, hey, l no offense taken. I love that I have the knowledge, It's free to those who don't. I approach things from the "if I was going to do this" mantra. With the perspective that most people are not willing to plunk down extra $$ and overbuild like I do. I also take pride in my recommendations as I want people to return and say, man this is awesome or to tell their friends where they can come for free advice that's actually worth listening to. The knowledgeable in here don't make any money on the advice they give but I guarantee you they've spent a shitload learning and can save you the time. energy and $$ on the wrong ways to do it. It always costs a little more to do things right, it's always expensive to do it wrong.

 

[DJin TX]

Oh, hey, l no offense taken. I love that I have the knowledge, It's free to those who don't. I approach things from the "if I was going to do this" mantra. With the perspective that most people are not willing to plunk down extra $$ and overbuild like I do. I also take pride in my recommendations as I want people to return and say, man this is awesome or to tell their friends where they can come for free advice that's actually worth listening to. The knowledgeable in here don't make any money on the advice they give but I guarantee you they've spent a shitload learning and can save you the time. energy and $$ on the wrong ways to do it. It always costs a little more to do things right, it's always expensive to do it wrong.

Ok so here are a lot of stream of consciousness questions:

where do you stand on me having the alpine s2-a60m powering the alpine ss-sb12?

Also, what is your stance on amps that have integrated DSPs, or subsonic filters? Keep in mind I don’t really know what they are but some say they are necessary. Your thoughts?

I really don’t need everyone on the block or at the stoplight to hear and feel my music rattling the rafters, I just want a full and balanced sound in my truck that feels like the sweet spot, not underpowered or thin sounding, but not bass head overload. A Little bit of bass vibrating when I play some old school rap would be nice.

Do you think the alpine amp/sub combination I am referencing above can do this or do I risk an underwhelming system going with the ss-sb10? I’m still at times thinking maybe the rs-sb10 would be better for my needs, but I can second guess like a pro.

 

[Qbenjamin 10+ year member]

I attempted to go through some of the posts to find out the max dimensions available to the OP for a box that would fit under the rear seat. Did I miss that, or are you unable to put a box under the seat?

Only asking because I had a custom box for an 8" subwoofer that I built for my old Ridgeline and it went under the rear seat (8.5" (H) X 9" (D) X 39" (W)).

 

[DJin TX]

I attempted to go through some of the posts to find out the max dimensions available to the OP for a box that would fit under the rear seat. Did I miss that, or are you unable to put a box under the seat?

Only asking because I had a custom box for an 8" subwoofer that I built for my old Ridgeline and it went under the rear seat (8.5" (H) X 9" (D) X 39" (W)).

I appreciate the response. The thread has moved around a bit. Initially I started by asking about a good all-in-one powered sub that would go under front seat, but now I am thinking that won’t provide as much impact as I want so now thinking of the shallow mount alpine subs that come in preloaded sub enclosures and put one of these under the rear seat. I do t have a ton of space. I’ve seen the stealth boxes that extend the full length of the rear seat but that’s more than I want to deal with. More expensive, less
Flexible in terms of taking away all underseat storage, and even more bass than needed as I’ll be pairing the sub with my factory head unit and speakers. Very frequently I cart the dog to the vet and need to put the seat up for her, large dog. Anyway I can get by with having a box on one side, but not both. Now just trying to decide on the ss-sb12 or rs-sb10 and the right amp. Im partial to alpine subs. If you have input, feel free to let it fly, although I don’t promise to understand much if it gets the least bit technical

 

[Doxquzme Premium Member]

Okay, here's the deal The RS-SB10 with the same 600-watt (or any of these amplifiers suggested), at full-rated input, will outperform the SS-SB12, but not by a ton. It's noticeable, not tremendous. Doubling the output power does not equate to a doubling of the volume, not even close in this case. running the RS-SB12 at full power (300 watts) is going to get loud, loud enough to be heard outside the truck, by the neighbors. I like the Alpine amp, but it lacks a subsonic filter and with these types of enclosures and constraints in the area they are used in, that would be important to me. As you have mentioned. money matters. Since both of these subs are similar in sensitivity, the price of the Alpine amp at $250 and the RS sub is at $750, that's $1000 for maybe 25% more output.

So, if you set on the RS10, get the stinger MT15001. 1000 watts at 2ohms. $900 for both. Or the Stinger MT1001, 700watts@2 ohms, $879 for both.
I think that given you're listening preferences, the SS-SB12 and the Alpine amp would be fine too. $749. Then again, the same SS-SB12 with the Singer MT1000, 700 watts, $639. I like the extra power and the subsonic filter options.

To your question about DSP, that opens up an entirely new discussion more to the question, it's not necessary, it's nice, and much more $$ (a lot more) to use in an all-active setup where it is best utilized. You think taking in this stuff is complicated now, DSP will put you over the top!

 

[Doxquzme Premium Member]

It's also important not to get caught up in the power ratings of the subwoofers (since I know what we're working with), that is not really the way to determine the output needs of the amp. It's a safe way if one does not know what they are looking at, big picture-wise. I would be surprised if anyone in this forum with experience would tell you that the only amp for that 300-watt sub should be a 300-watt amp. If that is truly a concern you have, then the MT700 puts out 500 watts at 2ohms and is $15 less than the MT1000. I wouldn't bat an eye to get the MT1000 for $15 more, in a heartbeat. The extra power plays well into the overall dynamics that Crutchfield is not taking into account.

 

[DJin TX]

It's also important not to get caught up in the power ratings of the subwoofers (since I know what we're working with), that is not really the way to determine the output needs of the amp. It's a safe way if one does not know what they are looking at, big picture-wise. I would be surprised if anyone in this forum with experience would tell you that the only amp for that 300-watt sub should be a 300-watt amp. If that is truly a concern you have, then the MT700 puts out 500 watts at 2ohms and is $15 less than the MT1000. I wouldn't bat an eye to get the MT1000 for $15 more, in a heartbeat. The extra power plays well into the overall dynamics that Crutchfield is not taking into account.

Since your posts I’ve been reading and watching info on stinger amps, and I’m impressed. I think this is a good way forward given the high praise low cost and positive technical tests I saw. So a couple of follow ups:

1. Earlier in the thread you voted for the s series 12 inch, but you also mentioned more recently the r series 10 would likely sound a bit better. So is S series 12 still your vote?

2. Given your advice on giving the subs plenty of power, if you’re saying the stinger MT1000.1 (700 watts at 2 ohms) is a good sweet spot for the s series 300 watt sub, are you saying the same amp for the r series 600 watt sub or jump up to a more powerful amp?

3. Finally, if I were a good friend of yours but clueless on all this stuff (like I am) what would your most straightforward recommendation be regarding the above combinations of amp + sub and resulting bang for the buck?

 

[Doxquzme Premium Member]

As for sounding better, I'm sorry, that is subjective. I think what I should have said, is at some point, it will overtake the 12" due to shear power output capabilities given the additional power. If I had a choice between an RS12 and an RS10, I'd take the 12 as it will outperform the 10 given the same 300 watt parameters.

My choice would be to get the SS SB12 and the stinger MT7001 over the Alpine amp and either sub for features and cost and the MT10001 or the MT15001 if purchasing the RS-SSB10. I feel, based on what you've said that the SS SB12 and the stinger MT7001 unless you just want everything to have the same name on it. In my view, you're paying a lot for that name and getting nothing in return. While the MT7001 and the SS12 will be great if you want to impress and spend a lot more for marginal improvements, purchase the RS10 and the stinger MT10001 or 15001. I see no need to entertain the Alpine or Kicker amps, they cost 50% more (Alpine) and a little more (Kcicker) for a lot less production.

There isn't a bad option here. The choice of amplifiers gives you a lot of leeway. I think that the SS SB12 is great with the 500 watts the MT7001 will give it. Would I like the RS SS10 with the MT10001 or the MT15001, of course? Is it worth the difference if the only time it makes a difference is when you open it up to show your friends, then no.