Hey everyone!
First time posting here and happy to have found this forum! To get started, I will break it down into categories. The Mazda CX5 Touring comes with touch screen headunit, 6 speakers ( 6 3/4in in each door, 3 1/2 in dash ) The head unit cannot be changed out due to how much its integrated into the car itself. (Lights, Alarms, ect ect)
1.What I've done to the car.
2.What equipment I have already.
3.What I'm looking to do and wanting.
1. What I have done to the car.
1A. The BIG 3 - used my leftover 4 gauge ( 120 amp fuse I believe ).
1B. Ran 4 gauge to subwoofer amp - (120 amp fuse I believe )
1C. Ran 6 gauge to speakers amp - ( 50 amp fuse )
1D. Spliced a Rockford Fosgate 3.sixty.2 after stock car amp.
1E. Morimoto HID kit -5000k- ( no headlight dimming + brighter lights )
1F. Did the Poor-mans "Dynamat" aka USEAL on the Entire inside trunk, and all around the front door speaker housing area. Eliminated tons of rattle (mainly in the Trunk) and some road noise.
This is all I've done to the car that deals with the car audio. There is no High Output alternator yet that I can find ( yes I know I need one, and since I use this car for daily use and my job I doubt getting it redone would be possible.) I know I'll be needing to redo the battery as well but being the car is 2 months old... Ehh I'll wait for it wear in a bit.
2. What equipment I have.
2A. 2 JL audio 12w3v3-4 - both 4 ohm SVC wired in parallel for 2 ohm - sitting in a stock dual individually sealed box.
2B. MRP-M1000 1000w Alpine amp - mono - class D - 1000w @ 2 ohm, 600w @ 4 ohm
2C. Rockford Fostgate 3.sixty.2 ( After stock amp in order to keep car alarms :ie blind spot monitor ect.
2D. Infinity Primus PR6500cs ( Comp. 6 3/4in speakers. ) - Installed woofer in front doors - tweeters in the vent spacing on dash ( the fixed ones that blows at the window )
2E. Infinity Primus PR6502is ( 6 3/4in speakers --- same as above pretty much except a two way) - Installed in the Rear doors.
2F. Polk Audio db351 - ( 3 1/2in speakers ) - Installed in the Dash with bass blocker.
2G. ALPINE MRP-F300 - CLASS AB - 4 CHANNEL ( Hooked to all 6 interior speakers. )
50w @ 4 ohms w/ 4 chan - 75w @ 2 ohms w/ 4 chan Bridged- 150w @ 4 ohms w/ 2 chan
-Currently Dash/Front door speakers are wired in parallel (by stock wiring) and rears on their own.
3. What I'm looking to do and wanting.
I love clean, crisp, loud, and deep music. I listen to rap (old school to new) mostly and rock (old school to 2006 ish..... hard to find any decent or good rock this day and age :/)
3A. I like to hear loud and clear every note. The interior speakers are quite good at the moment. I will be rewiring the dash (tweeters + PolkDB351's) to their own line, and running the front and rear doors together. Im throttled on gains by the polk's. ( The component speaker set's "splitter boxs" I put in the dash - Hooked polks to the "WF" with bass blocker and tweeters to the "TW" )
Question 3A. Does rewiring make sense and sound like the best plan of action for me to do to maximize my door speakers without killing my dash speakers. On the amp, what would be the best config to shoot power to the speakers.
B. While these 12w3's have been amazing for what (7 years roughly?), im wanting...more. By More, Im referring to Harder, Cleaner, Crisper. As I said above I absolutely love Clear, crisp, clean, loud, and to feel it. I want my soul to feel those low freq's and at times i'll admit, i want the 6 cars in front of me and behind me to feel the same euphoria haha. On the flip side, i dont want the unrecognizable bass that just shakes things needlessly.
Question 3B. I am just bored and used to them. I want to do More, but take up less space. I prefer sealed box's, more rap music than rock + its also nicer since the box size is smaller than ported. Im preferably looking for a single sub that can obtain my desired results to save some space and I want to keep utilizing the existing Amp as well.
Q3B part2- Curious also on the amp. MRP-M1000 sometimes tends to run....hot. I've seen its quite common and some talk about something being wrong ( like a transistor or what not? ). I lean towards my subs, I am unsure but one of the subs doesnt take gains like the other which means i throttle back a bit. But usually after about 3 hours of moderate / heavy use before issues unless i roll down the back windows a little and im golden ( especially winter time )
So in all this long post it comes down to:
-wiring config of the speakers / speaker amp
-Subwoofer upgrade (hopefully single sub / but 2 might be ok depending on Price) that will settle into my existing setup.
Attached are pics of the system now: when i replace the subwoofer, i will move the RF 3.sixty.2 to underneath the rear seat. Also I will eventually take a shot at making a custom fiber glass box to further save room. ( When i do, as i do with everything, will be completly over-do and over-engineer it and another reason for a sealed box setup.) I should have some help from someone who has done a few before, but in the end, its just gotta be thick enough / sealed / and some measuring/calculating for obtaining optimum cu ft and depth.... always fill it up some or polyfill it to tweak it if i mess up.
IF I AM WRONG ANYWHERE or ON anything.... Please feel free to call me dumb and correct me. Im not new to this per say (except the sound processor), but I don't follow the products/manufactures that much and I know there is way better options and prices than going with the too pricey 13in W7 (or the now non-existent 13in W6). From reviews and comparisons I've looked at so far, its almost crazy how much I am in the dark on brands/product lines/ and their performances. But most bring up old school subs that are unavailable or gone. Personally the best sub I've ever heard myself was probably around 15 years ago - Pheonix Gold's lol... But memory can be fickle. Ive done quite a few of my own systems and systems for friends and seen Kickers, RF, ect ect but none were as good bass/SQ as my w3's. I dont know models ect they had, but i know it greatly depends on setup. Put the best system ever conceived with a crappy headunit or sub or amp or configuration; and it's only going to be crap. The best your system can be is your weakest point.
[ My car is used for my personal things and work. For my civilian side job, i cover the service technician for the southeast USA and am in my car alot... Hours upon hours and miles galore!!! Its also what i go to the store, Army duty, ect ect]
First time posting here and happy to have found this forum! To get started, I will break it down into categories. The Mazda CX5 Touring comes with touch screen headunit, 6 speakers ( 6 3/4in in each door, 3 1/2 in dash ) The head unit cannot be changed out due to how much its integrated into the car itself. (Lights, Alarms, ect ect)
1.What I've done to the car.
2.What equipment I have already.
3.What I'm looking to do and wanting.
1. What I have done to the car.
1A. The BIG 3 - used my leftover 4 gauge ( 120 amp fuse I believe ).
1B. Ran 4 gauge to subwoofer amp - (120 amp fuse I believe )
1C. Ran 6 gauge to speakers amp - ( 50 amp fuse )
1D. Spliced a Rockford Fosgate 3.sixty.2 after stock car amp.
1E. Morimoto HID kit -5000k- ( no headlight dimming + brighter lights )
1F. Did the Poor-mans "Dynamat" aka USEAL on the Entire inside trunk, and all around the front door speaker housing area. Eliminated tons of rattle (mainly in the Trunk) and some road noise.
This is all I've done to the car that deals with the car audio. There is no High Output alternator yet that I can find ( yes I know I need one, and since I use this car for daily use and my job I doubt getting it redone would be possible.) I know I'll be needing to redo the battery as well but being the car is 2 months old... Ehh I'll wait for it wear in a bit.
2. What equipment I have.
2A. 2 JL audio 12w3v3-4 - both 4 ohm SVC wired in parallel for 2 ohm - sitting in a stock dual individually sealed box.
2B. MRP-M1000 1000w Alpine amp - mono - class D - 1000w @ 2 ohm, 600w @ 4 ohm
2C. Rockford Fostgate 3.sixty.2 ( After stock amp in order to keep car alarms :ie blind spot monitor ect.
2D. Infinity Primus PR6500cs ( Comp. 6 3/4in speakers. ) - Installed woofer in front doors - tweeters in the vent spacing on dash ( the fixed ones that blows at the window )
2E. Infinity Primus PR6502is ( 6 3/4in speakers --- same as above pretty much except a two way) - Installed in the Rear doors.
2F. Polk Audio db351 - ( 3 1/2in speakers ) - Installed in the Dash with bass blocker.
2G. ALPINE MRP-F300 - CLASS AB - 4 CHANNEL ( Hooked to all 6 interior speakers. )
50w @ 4 ohms w/ 4 chan - 75w @ 2 ohms w/ 4 chan Bridged- 150w @ 4 ohms w/ 2 chan
-Currently Dash/Front door speakers are wired in parallel (by stock wiring) and rears on their own.
3. What I'm looking to do and wanting.
I love clean, crisp, loud, and deep music. I listen to rap (old school to new) mostly and rock (old school to 2006 ish..... hard to find any decent or good rock this day and age :/)
3A. I like to hear loud and clear every note. The interior speakers are quite good at the moment. I will be rewiring the dash (tweeters + PolkDB351's) to their own line, and running the front and rear doors together. Im throttled on gains by the polk's. ( The component speaker set's "splitter boxs" I put in the dash - Hooked polks to the "WF" with bass blocker and tweeters to the "TW" )
Question 3A. Does rewiring make sense and sound like the best plan of action for me to do to maximize my door speakers without killing my dash speakers. On the amp, what would be the best config to shoot power to the speakers.
B. While these 12w3's have been amazing for what (7 years roughly?), im wanting...more. By More, Im referring to Harder, Cleaner, Crisper. As I said above I absolutely love Clear, crisp, clean, loud, and to feel it. I want my soul to feel those low freq's and at times i'll admit, i want the 6 cars in front of me and behind me to feel the same euphoria haha. On the flip side, i dont want the unrecognizable bass that just shakes things needlessly.
Question 3B. I am just bored and used to them. I want to do More, but take up less space. I prefer sealed box's, more rap music than rock + its also nicer since the box size is smaller than ported. Im preferably looking for a single sub that can obtain my desired results to save some space and I want to keep utilizing the existing Amp as well.
Q3B part2- Curious also on the amp. MRP-M1000 sometimes tends to run....hot. I've seen its quite common and some talk about something being wrong ( like a transistor or what not? ). I lean towards my subs, I am unsure but one of the subs doesnt take gains like the other which means i throttle back a bit. But usually after about 3 hours of moderate / heavy use before issues unless i roll down the back windows a little and im golden ( especially winter time )
So in all this long post it comes down to:
-wiring config of the speakers / speaker amp
-Subwoofer upgrade (hopefully single sub / but 2 might be ok depending on Price) that will settle into my existing setup.
Attached are pics of the system now: when i replace the subwoofer, i will move the RF 3.sixty.2 to underneath the rear seat. Also I will eventually take a shot at making a custom fiber glass box to further save room. ( When i do, as i do with everything, will be completly over-do and over-engineer it and another reason for a sealed box setup.) I should have some help from someone who has done a few before, but in the end, its just gotta be thick enough / sealed / and some measuring/calculating for obtaining optimum cu ft and depth.... always fill it up some or polyfill it to tweak it if i mess up.
IF I AM WRONG ANYWHERE or ON anything.... Please feel free to call me dumb and correct me. Im not new to this per say (except the sound processor), but I don't follow the products/manufactures that much and I know there is way better options and prices than going with the too pricey 13in W7 (or the now non-existent 13in W6). From reviews and comparisons I've looked at so far, its almost crazy how much I am in the dark on brands/product lines/ and their performances. But most bring up old school subs that are unavailable or gone. Personally the best sub I've ever heard myself was probably around 15 years ago - Pheonix Gold's lol... But memory can be fickle. Ive done quite a few of my own systems and systems for friends and seen Kickers, RF, ect ect but none were as good bass/SQ as my w3's. I dont know models ect they had, but i know it greatly depends on setup. Put the best system ever conceived with a crappy headunit or sub or amp or configuration; and it's only going to be crap. The best your system can be is your weakest point.
[ My car is used for my personal things and work. For my civilian side job, i cover the service technician for the southeast USA and am in my car alot... Hours upon hours and miles galore!!! Its also what i go to the store, Army duty, ect ect]
