what he is saying is 8k at 1 ohm is 89vac, 4k at 2 ohm is 89vac, 2k at 4 ohm is 89vacA 8k at 1ohm is not a 8k at 2ohm.
id like to see you explain thishigher ohm rating = less heatLess heat = better efficiency
The lower the ohm rating the dirtier the amperage flow gets so it pulls more current to compensate for the loss of amperage in the current.
The better efficiency (higher ohm) has less amperage loss making no need to pull more the needed.
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do you even think about what you're sayingLol what? No. 8k at whatever ohm will need roughly 800 amps of current
4K at whatever ohm will need roughly 400 amps of current.
Un-efficient/unstable current/unmeasurable amperage/major amperage dropid like to see you explain this
the fuck is dirty amperage flow
do you even think about what you're saying
you're right but not really considering theres no context
OP will be much better off adding a HO alt but he has a lot of battery reserve that might sustain him well enough with good wiring. doesnt mean it wont make the alternator work harder, because it will
Did you read what I was replying to? Ball sack.id like to see you explain this
the fuck is dirty amperage flow
do you even think about what you're saying
you're right but not really considering theres no context
OP will be much better off adding a HO alt but he has a lot of battery reserve that might sustain him well enough with good wiring. doesnt mean it wont make the alternator work harder, because it will
i like the r.i.p.s. system with the tightly regulated power supply, 1000watts constant between 1.5 and 4 ohm. think about wiring a dual 3ohm, 1000w sub down to 1.5 and figure in imp rise, if your rise doesnt go over 4 ohm, your driver will be seeing 1000w at all times.JL Audio has their amps as so. Any impedance, same wattage. Which I don't like.
youre welcome.Thanks man, this helps out a lot! I had no idea what the draw was. My idea was to play the stereo off the batteries. I thought I'd be good since I don't turn it up loud for long periods of time. I was going to use the voltmeter as a gauge to know when to shut the subs off(below 11.5), and let the batteries charge back up. The batteries combined have 210 amp hours and a total of 10,000 amps with an additional 90 AH from the alt for a total of 310 AH. Why wont this work for running a 5k system? (I've got an audiopipe 2k amp for mids and highs which is really 100watts x4)
not really, but it does fit in to the equation after the fact. i was referring to the volt-amperes the toroid supplies and what current it needs to operate properly.what he is saying is 8k at 1 ohm is 89vac, 4k at 2 ohm is 89vac, 2k at 4 ohm is 89vac
idk what he is getting at with it will always pull 700a even at 4ohms though.
8000w / 14v / .8 =714a
2000w / 14v / .8 = 178a
i think los33 is on the same track i am, i confused some people, including myself after reading my own replies, lol. my explanation had to do more with the rail voltage (which is constant) supplied by the toroidal transformer in the amplifier and what it needs on tap to operate at any given load without taking into account loss or gain in efficiency due to heat or lack thereof.higher ohm rating = less heatLess heat = better efficiency
The lower the ohm rating the dirtier the amperage flow gets so it pulls more current to compensate for the loss of amperage in the current.
The better efficiency (higher ohm) has less amperage loss making no need to pull more the needed.
Sent from my Z970 using Tapatalk
i like this^ , but why am i not surprised?On a lighter note. Papermaker is getting ran off of DIYMA
Good.Did you read what I was replying to? Ball sack.On a lighter note. Papermaker is getting ran off of DIYMA
i still have no idea what you're actually sayingUn-efficient/unstable current/unmeasurable amperage/major amperage drop
I can say many more related word combinations to express a current of amperage with the least resistance allowing amperage to drop from the source.
Makes it easier for people to understand.
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There is a write from Manville somewhere. I thought the same thing when I had them.how so?
got it. i just read his write up and replies on diyma in the r.i.p.s. thread which explains in pretty good detail, not so much about the correlation of imp. rise, but how the rips system behaves,... im inclined to think that may have been a great marketing campaign when the slash/v1 series came out as even some of the most knowledgeable audiophiles were possibly mislead.There is a write from Manville somewhere. I thought the same thing when I had them.
We need rise for music to sound natural. It's a part of dynamics.got it. i just read his write up and replies on diyma in the r.i.p.s. thread which explains in pretty good detail, not so much about the correlation of imp. rise, but how the rips system behaves,... im inclined to think that may have been a great marketing campaign when the slash/v1 series came out as even some of the most knowledgeable audiophiles were possibly mislead.
good info in there, but now that i read it, it seems it was a rather well thought out misnomer for some to assume as we did, and im sure they sold the hell out of them based on that alone. kinda surprised to learn the slash series was thought up by the same man who designed the ppi art series and dm series using the same, yet revamped, power supply modulation tech the dm series did.
one thing thats really sticking with me though, is that typical voltage source amplifier power supplies where rail voltage is fixed are designed for an optimum load, and higher load impedances just result in it producing less power, not the inverse, whereas the rips system adjusts rail voltage in 4 steps depending on the initial non-reactive load it detects upon powering up.
now if only we could have an amplifier that could actually produce constant power at all frequencies with a reactive load,... id prob sell a testicle to own it.