1996 Ford Windstar, FU Audio & Sundown

[wew lad 5,000+ posts]

Started to do some tinting. Rears are 10%, fronts will be getting 35%. Still need to do the rear hatch

video is private

 

[Kangaroux 5,000+ posts]

video is private

Try now

 

[wew lad 5,000+ posts]

definitely gonna need some deadening haha those subs slam

 

[Kangaroux 5,000+ posts]

I really wish these vids did this system any justice. Oh well.

 

[Kangaroux 5,000+ posts]

Got the rear glass tinted, finally. Got some filler and paint to do my A pillars as well, so that should get done in the next couple days. Might build an amp rack while I'm at it.

 

[big scott]

love the plate flex.....

 

[OKAY]

Van is looking good!! Hope yours has a good transmission! 135000k on my 98 so far. Ford put Taurus transmissions in a van..

 

[CRXBMPN 5,000+ posts]

Zak has my meter for a couple days but if you want it for the back half of the week you can use it. I have someone coming up from auburn on Monday to help fix my subs, I can give it to him to get to you...

 

[Kangaroux 5,000+ posts]

Zak has my meter for a couple days but if you want it for the back half of the week you can use it. I have someone coming up from auburn on Monday to help fix my subs, I can give it to him to get to you...

You know I'm bout that

 

[Kangaroux 5,000+ posts]

Playing around with some bracing. The rear hatch has 2 parts to it that aren't firmly secured to eachother so I put a few of these blocks in. They are PL'd and then screws in from underneath. Slightly oversized so the panels squeeze it together and keeps it held in place

20 year old stock speakers. I think it's time for a change.

First order of business is to cover up the large hole in the door. There's a thousand different ways to do this but with what I had on hand I used some scrap ply.

To get the panel to sit flush on the door I had to cut away where wires ran. I eyeballed where the wires were and traced it onto the panel, then cut away using a circular saw with the depth set a bit shallow. To cut out a groove, I hold the guard up on the saw, cut multiple passes (kerfs) and then turn the saw and go back over the kerfs. It's really quick, no chisels or routers required.

PL375 on the door. Screws to hold it in place while it cures, and finally some expanding foam to fill up any remaining gaps.

 

[Kangaroux 5,000+ posts]

Some quick advice if you want to use this method for sealing doors or any panel really.

Get construction screws. They have a torx head on them so they are practically immune to stripping. The metal used is much stronger than on a drywall screw, so the head won't break and if you're drilling into metal the tip won't crack.

And if you're using expanding foam, here's an easy way to make sure the can and applicator straw can be reused. When you're done using the foam, plug the can and straw with some screws. When the foam dries, you'll be able to pull the screw with some pliers and get a large bulk of the leftover foam out. What doesn't come out easily gets cleaned with a can of WD40 with the thin straw. DO NOT TRY TO RINSE THE FOAM OFF WITH WATER. Water speeds up the curing, it won't wash away and you'll just be left with wet, sticky foam. You need something oil based, which is why wd40 works great.

 

[Kangaroux 5,000+ posts]

For the speaker mounts, I couldn't just trace the factory mount because it's not made for a 6.5" and the size just wouldn't work. So instead of taking tons of measurements or lots of trial and error, I took a piece of paper to get a general idea of where the flush part of the door was where the mount would sit.

Glued it to some scrap ply with a glue stick. You could use spray glue or wood glue, just don't use too much because it will make the paper soggy.

Fit is good. Plenty of room for a 6.5" now.

Strip foam'd the edge of the mount and screwed it tightly to the door. I forgot I bought a circle cutting jig for my drill press which made making this mount infinitely easier than the other door which I used a jigsaw for.

I need to finish running the speaker wire to the rear of the car, pick things up a bit and also make an amp rack before I can install my DD a2. I bought some stuff to mount the tweets in the A pillars as well. Before I do this though I think I'm going to do some more work on my roof. The brace in the center of the roof that took the most abuse fell off, so I'll reapply the panel with the strips of wood this time so the panel has something to securely fasten itself to.

 

[Mitch86 5,000+ posts]

Looks good! You really like that glue, huh? Lol

 

[Jeffdachef 5,000+ posts]

Looks good! You really like that glue, huh? Lol

it sticks and seals well enough. Its still removable if needed later on.

 

[Kangaroux 5,000+ posts]

Looks good! You really like that glue, huh? Lol

It's good shit, I can't deny that.

it sticks and seals well enough. Its still removable if needed later on.

Basically this. It firms up quite a bit to create a pretty good seal and bond, enough to hold tight even through vibrations and flex. But if you work at it enough you can remove it with a flat head or something. Plus it's dirt cheap at $2 per tube.