2023 Ford Bronco full system suggestion request

being a numbers nerd, I'm working on a spreadsheet with some options based on feedback here and my own exploration. The PPI subs look like ass so don't mind that tab. Cant find any feedback on them, but figured if the amps were recommended...

Totally Nerdy Bronco Priceout Spreadsheet
The PPI amps use to be made in the USA. Now they are made in Korea. Korean made amps are known to be high quality. There are a few youtube videos on them. Purchased a PPI Power Series for my truck and 2 Atom series amps for my son's truck. If they were bad, trust me when I say "I would have not purchased them." My wife doesn't let me spend on toys too often, so when I do, I have to make sure my purchase will perform and last.

The PPI subs are pretty good subs for $110. I have heard them, and they do pound pretty good. Especially fora $110 sub. However, NVX subs are a better speaker, in my opinion.
 
The higher end NVX subs look great, but I'm worried about the power draw. Not only does it put me over budget but I don't wanna murder my alternator. lol
Power draw is an efficiency metric, RMS is the thermal limit. The wire harness is around$40, the power kit you'll need to go with is at least a 1/0 around $100. You need a breaker for the under the hood and a dual fused distro (Future 4 channel), another $60 for the two. That leaves around $600 for a good box and a couple of 12's. For an LOC, get a good one, like this

https://www.ebay.com/itm/2561121587...d=link&campid=5335951755&toolid=20001&mkevt=1

The guy will sell them for $50 (offered to me previously) and it will facilitate the addition of a 4 channel amp down the line. Not going to get into DSP, whole notha ball game and serious amount of time and added cost - now @ $550 to work with.

Fi are very nice, just a bit over budget. Let’s shoot for a 2 ohm load to keep things cool and stable, not overworked. These are dual 2 ohm, wired in series at the woofer then parallel to the amp, two ohm load. He's asking $145 each but the guy wheels and deals, offer $125 each, he'll probably come back with 130 each so lets figure on $260 for the two.


Down to $290 and cutting it closes. Those subs will handle 1200 watts RMS, so they need a decent box

GP glue and screw $269.00

https://gpcaraudio.com/12-dual-high-output-glue-it-screw-it-sub-enclosure/

Keep in mind, that I have included the LOC, the wiring and fuse/distribution blocks so technically8, still right on target.

Amplifier. While Korean higher end builds are known for their headroom and build quality (used to be staunch advocate), new full bridge offerings more than make up for this with the output. I think a decent 2000 watt 1 ohm stable amp is what we should be looking at. The smart versions are great, have regulated power supplies and have gobs of spare power.

This guy wants $250 plus shipping, offer him $250.00 shipped.

https://www.ebay.com/itm/1455746231...d=link&campid=5335951755&toolid=20001&mkevt=1

2000 watt option - Taramps Make a reasonable 2000 watt amp, but it's not a Smart unit and that is a significant difference so I don't go that route with their line. These are nice and they come in three colors!


You could shave another $40 dollars off that and go with one of the new stinger amps which are a stinger design and have gotten pretty decent reviews. This one at $160 is rated at 1500 x 1, at 2, about 1000 watts (nothing to sneeze at).

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0BN2BG2M1/?tag=caraudiocom-20

That $60 XS power battery upgrade for the back is something I would also consider in lieu of an electrical upgrade. You going to get people here that will insist you need a big electrical upgrade, but really, I design builds with an eye towards overly strong output capability so that when you never use half of it, it last a long time. Here is an example of what I’m referring regarding actual output versus assumptions on what you will u se.



This is a fine staring setup to get you where you need to be going into phase two and as expected, got some ideas for that too – including a good amount of sound deadening you’ll want to put down. At the very least, everywhere you mount the speakers.

At $400 for the 4 channel amp, leaves tons of options available and probably less - BUT if you want to go crazy… I’m currently selling one of these on here for $375, you can have it for $350 shipped if it’s still available.

SFB-100.4D BNIB

https://www.caraudio.com/threads/al...sundown-audio-sfb-1000-4d-350x4-4ohms.614462/

A used 7 out of 10 condition Focal FDP-600.4, $350 shipped- the new one is listed on the link but I have another one, used.

That SFB is a crazy amount of power and you'll likely need a 2nd battery at around $400, something to consider. I've got some good suggestions on the speaker option too, when you decide on an amp, and the ones I have are 150 x 4 and 350 x 4 and not inexpensive, they are however very nice amplifiers. There really is a lot of options there when you get ready to do that. My initial suggestions for the sub amp and subwoofers is predicated on the scenario for finishing your build in a manner that won't disappoint. If you're really ready to do it right, in three stages, you can end up with a sub-stantial setup, no pun intended. :)
 
A set of Tuned 12s ready to go as these may be an option for the budget and should fill that cabin space pretty decent if it fits,and save some funds for an amp and supply wiring kit. Just a recommendation to keep things simple on the sub stage. This should eat up your $800 sub stage budget, but savings from your Speaker dept of $800 should cover the Tax and shipping allowing for supply for both amps, the Big3, and fused distro @ both amps. Just recommendations to consider






Approx. $39 bucks left out that $800 sub stage budget
 
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$400 + $39 left over from Sub Budget Total of $439....Mids and Highs amplifier Budget. I have and been running this amp for over a year and 1 of (2) 2ks. Great amps thus far for the $coin. A bit compact design




Still leaves approx $74 for shipping other than the SHigh x the ft wiring for amps and rear ground wiring
 
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I am assuming you have the 4dr and not the 2 dr. Bronco?? So... Approx. $74 left out of sub stage and Mids and highs amplifier.
Speakers/ Mids and Highs Budget of $800 + the $74 =Total of $874 approx. budget left over...
6.5 Components up Front(I recommend and run Myself)


Rears


Extra Speaker wire to reach from rear mids Highs amp to front . May be enough to do front and rear in that vehicle?



Out of the final given Budget $874 Total in this Speaker section and the rest leaves a Total of approx. $420 left for taxes and on items need shipping. This does not Include the LOC you will need or any HU/Radio harnesses dask kit adapters Ect. or Door Deadening or Extra Battery terminals that may be needed for a 2nd battery if needed or extra Copper Lugs and heat shrink. and the Installation or the extra Mounting hardware.
Just a Recommendation.
 
You should be able to use this for the fill for the 6.5s in the Kicks that call for 6.75(6- 3/4 speakers). not a reall decent selection of 6.75s to be in all honesty and that will sound as good as the Polks for the $/Coin and will also give you more options for the 6.5 speakers that are available


Y
 
Others will recommend as well.
Thanks for the detailed links! Gives me a lot to think about. I do love Polk. I had some Polk 10s and mids/highs in an older build and they sounded fantastic and never gave me issues.

Obviously you wouldn't recommend CT if you didn't believe in them, but whats their story? Mid level comparable to NVX? I laughed at them when I first saw their logo... you have all these brands like ELEGAAAANCE and SUPER BAD ASS BUTT KICKING BRAND NAME and then "ct sounds". Almost sounds home made, which threw me off. :)
 
Thanks for the detailed links! Gives me a lot to think about. I do love Polk. I had some Polk 10s and mids/highs in an older build and they sounded fantastic and never gave me issues.

Obviously you wouldn't recommend CT if you didn't believe in them, but whats their story? Mid level comparable to NVX? I laughed at them when I first saw their logo... you have all these brands like ELEGAAAANCE and SUPER BAD ASS BUTT KICKING BRAND NAME and then "ct sounds". Almost sounds home made, which threw me off. :)
Sorry for the late response. Ive been busy today. CT Sounds used to be Audio Technix. The individual that owned A.T. Passed away, and the new Company is CT Sounds. long story and some bad apples with A.T. after my purchases. Its a very long story of that time of some shady doings. I had no idea that CT Sounds was a spin off of a family member. I Live in TX and they are in TX. So I figured Id give CT a try and see what they are all about and tried the entry level amps ect.,and try something new. if I had any issues I could make a 4 hr trip, and as well get my gear sooner with less road travel. No issues thus far. I even have had excellent Customer service on my first amp that was supposed to be delivered in 3 days. It came 4th day after contact of email by Kurt late at night and for the inconvenience they sent me 2 BNIB 6.5 mids., and followed up and made sure I was happy with the amp .
 
Thanks for the detailed links! Gives me a lot to think about. I do love Polk. I had some Polk 10s and mids/highs in an older build and they sounded fantastic and never gave me issues.

Obviously you wouldn't recommend CT if you didn't believe in them, but whats their story? Mid level comparable to NVX? I laughed at them when I first saw their logo... you have all these brands like ELEGAAAANCE and SUPER BAD ASS BUTT KICKING BRAND NAME and then "ct sounds". Almost sounds home made, which threw me off. :)
I buy quite a bit of gear, and still install for others as well, and like to recommend what Ive used /experienced , and demoed. I havent tried several other items they have available, but will as time goes on. Ive been to meets ect. and have heard and got demos of some of theyre subs , components ect. and have been impressed with the power and p0erformance they deliver for the budget minded and thats a market to corner to make money. I still have One A.Technix Strato12 left, and kick myself getting rid of a few others
 
All things considered equal, 2 doubles the cone area. 2 of either driven by the same amount of power, will outperform 1 with twice the power, it's physics. Doubling the cone area is hard to overcome without a LOT of power.
 
Thanks for the detailed links! Gives me a lot to think about. I do love Polk. I had some Polk 10s and mids/highs in an older build and they sounded fantastic and never gave me issues.

Obviously you wouldn't recommend CT if you didn't believe in them, but whats their story? Mid level comparable to NVX? I laughed at them when I first saw their logo... you have all these brands like ELEGAAAANCE and SUPER BAD ASS BUTT KICKING BRAND NAME and then "ct sounds". Almost sounds home made, which threw me off. :)
Polk Audio has been around for a very long time. and still seem to make some wonder speakers and Home Audio as well.
I'm probably going to stay kicker, but I have a question. Two Kicker L7S or One Kicker L7R?
Just an FYI.. Id take some time and research the enclosure needs for those L7s. Most ive put in need quite a bit of space to perform than most subs. I think majority are rated for 750 RMS. But as stated. Cone area usually rules. Four tens would be awesome, like 400-600 rms tens on 1500-2k.
 
Ok, and this is a wild question, but...

I want to be able to pull the subs out for a conversion between beach cruiser/ daily driver and road tripper that needs cargo space.

I'm thinking I'm going to mount my amp behind my sidewall, add a terminal on the wall, use banana plugs on my speaker wires for quick disconnect, and keep my factory sub/amp as well. I should be able to tap the wires for the high/low converter. I can add a switch for the remote wire for the kicker amp. Should the factory amp have a remote wire, as well? (then I can add a rocker to select the amp...)

Is this idea insane? Am I going to burn down my bronco? lol
 
The higher end NVX subs look great, but I'm worried about the power draw. Not only does it put me over budget but I don't wanna murder my alternator. lol
Anything over 1000 watts is going to murder your alternator if you crank your system. That's an extra 100 amps. Stay under 1000 and get a really good and large capacitor.
 
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