1996 Ford Windstar, FU Audio & Sundown

When you have to put deadener on your windows... #justminivanthings

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Reattached the roof brace that fell off using that wood strip method I had thought about earlier. Worked awesome. The wood has to bend just enough to become really stiff, but not bent so much that it's pulling down the roof or the strips.

Cut a strip 2-3" wide. Do a dry fit with your large bracing panel to see how much of a gap there is. You may need to take a little bit of thickness off the strip, you want to aim for an 1/8 - 1/4" gap. Spread some PL375 across it, and also a strong bead down the middle so that you have plenty of adhesive (not shown)

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The strips are so light and the PL has a lot of grab that you don't need to hold it in place. Just press it tightly against the roof and it will stay there. Let it sit overnight. Don't play music at a high volume until you've let this fully set.

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Attached the panel to the mounting strips. Again, I laid down a strong bead of PL before attaching it with screws. I put some deadener as well but it's probably not necessary. You could do a 3rd brace directly in the middle if you weren't using spray foam to fill the gap.

aidrmck.jpg


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Threw it on the meter before I did this rebracing. A lot of panels are out of the vehicle including the rear seat which I think could yield a few tenths. I'm going to play around with the box position and see if I can gain something from it. I know "the meter doesn't lie" but it certainly isn't doing it justice.

Peak is at 41hz.

Sealed on the dash

Kdsy2Rm.jpg


Outlaw, kick and driver door open

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As I mentioned before I even started this build, my goal for numbers was a 147 sealed. I think with the roof braced, and panels put back in to cut down on cabin area I can get an extra db. Going to meter it at a show tomorrow. Will see exo and a few other loud guys. I'll get some vids and pics up

 
**** i liked this thread, gave me many ideas, might even use wood on my roof now that ive seen how its done, was that sound deadener in your gas cap?//content.invisioncic.com/y282845/emoticons/wink.gif.608e3ea05f1a9f98611af0861652f8fb.gif

 
**** i liked this thread, gave me many ideas, might even use wood on my roof now that ive seen how its done, was that sound deadener in your gas cap?//content.invisioncic.com/y282845/emoticons/wink.gif.608e3ea05f1a9f98611af0861652f8fb.gif
pretty necessary to have some deadening there. I have a bunch too in my minivan's gas cap. Wood is EZ DBs for cheap when its a big ass car like a minivan.

 
**** i liked this thread, gave me many ideas, might even use wood on my roof now that ive seen how its done, was that sound deadener in your gas cap?//content.invisioncic.com/y282845/emoticons/wink.gif.608e3ea05f1a9f98611af0861652f8fb.gif
Gas cap hasn't given me any trouble actually. Right now the biggest thing that's rattling are the mounts on the roof which I can't do anything about, just some pieces of plastic. Full disclosure though, deadening the outside of my rear windows (the ones that can open) helped so much. I also tightened up the arms that move the window so now it's pressed against the vehicle really well. I should have gotten a video of what they look like when they're open and I'm playing 30hz stuff, looks like they are going to break right in half lol.

 
I saw that lol I almost said before you're going to blow out one of those back windows once you start sealing everything else up

 
Was rerouting some wires in my doors today and made an unfortunate discovery regarding the AQ mids. There is a plastic ring that's attached to the surround for god knows why, and it obstructs the screw holes because it's slightly oversized. When you screw in the speaker, the glue they used isn't very strong at all and the surround and plastic ring slide to make room. This makes the surround uneven and slightly misaligns the voice coil just enough so there is an obnoxious buzz on any mid bass. Tried to get the surround back to normal but it's not perfect. Will most likely upgrade these with some silver flutes or something down the road.

 
Threw it on the meter before I did this rebracing. A lot of panels are out of the vehicle including the rear seat which I think could yield a few tenths. I'm going to play around with the box position and see if I can gain something from it. I know "the meter doesn't lie" but it certainly isn't doing it justice.
Peak is at 41hz.

Sealed on the dash

Kdsy2Rm.jpg


Outlaw, kick and driver door open

ccK725T.jpg


As I mentioned before I even started this build, my goal for numbers was a 147 sealed. I think with the roof braced, and panels put back in to cut down on cabin area I can get an extra db. Going to meter it at a show tomorrow. Will see exo and a few other loud guys. I'll get some vids and pics up
i cant see the scores....... im at work and certain pics and random stuff is blocked //content.invisioncic.com/y282845/emoticons/crap.gif.7f4dd41e3e9b23fbd170a1ee6f65cecc.gif

 
i cant see the scores....... im at work and certain pics and random stuff is blocked //content.invisioncic.com/y282845/emoticons/crap.gif.7f4dd41e3e9b23fbd170a1ee6f65cecc.gif
146.0 sealed 147.8 kick

 
146.0 sealed 147.8 kick
Not bad if i say so myself... Im looking at getting a pair of 12s going forward and im getting a different a vehicle, probably another honda accord but 4dr(i have a 2 yr old and this 2 dr crap is for the birds). I been doing some research and went and read tfades showdown of the 12s that you mentioned in here and they seem very impressive thus far especially for the money. Im looking for a good pair of 12s and will have around 3k on tap(before rise and voltage drop) and sealed from the trunk firing forward.

 
Not bad if i say so myself... Im looking at getting a pair of 12s going forward and im getting a different a vehicle, probably another honda accord but 4dr(i have a 2 yr old and this 2 dr crap is for the birds). I been doing some research and went and read tfades showdown of the 12s that you mentioned in here and they seem very impressive thus far especially for the money. Im looking for a good pair of 12s and will have around 3k on tap(before rise and voltage drop) and sealed from the trunk firing forward.
I'm definitely a fan of the 750's, very fun subs to play with. When I get the chance I'll swap these out for a pair of their 1800's and run at 0.5.

 
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