2023 Ford Bronco full system suggestion request

So, I found a good deal on a CXA1800.1 locally. It's in great shape and the guy is a car audio enthusiast, he even kept the box. I'm gonna pick that up for cheaper than a new CXA1200.1. I'll probably pair it with the dual L7S enclosure, even though it puts the total out of my budget. I'll just have to go a little over, but the result should be phenomenal. Thanks for all the advice.
 
Sorry, I typed that earlier. The CXA1800.1 is in my possession now

Of course, now yall got me worried about power draw.

:)
Pffft. don;t worry about it. THe kicker amp is not clean up to rated. That 1800 is at 10%, you won't be going there anyway.

Got one of these, your's for $60 shipped.


You could look into one of these too - all you will ever need and more for this system.


Or one of these


If you have a lead acid up front, put one of these between them, good to go.

 
Sorry, I typed that earlier. The CXA1800.1 is in my possession now

Of course, now yall got me worried about power draw.

:)
Its a Class D. depending on what Ohm load you run it at will determine the draw from 4 ohm down to 1 ohm load. Kicker still make some really decent amps but a bit expensive than what you can purchase new within the same price range. Great amp. especially if you got a decent deal on it and works well.
 
So, I found a good deal on a CXA1800.1 locally. It's in great shape and the guy is a car audio enthusiast, he even kept the box. I'm gonna pick that up for cheaper than a new CXA1200.1. I'll probably pair it with the dual L7S enclosure, even though it puts the total out of my budget. I'll just have to go a little over, but the result should be phenomenal. Thanks for all the advice.
Man.. let us know how it performs for you.Id deff be interested in seeing the build out.
 
Hi! It's me again. I bet you're wondering how I got in this position... lol

So, I've had the Kicker CXA1800.1 sitting in my office for 2 months. I'm about to make my purchase on subs and a box. I was searching the internet just in case.... I didnt want to miss any options. And I came across this beauty.

Down firing means the subs are protected from the weather. Bolted in is a theft deterrent, especially with the top off. Looks cool. Gives me my entire cargo floor. Mounting it that close to the wall means the wiring to my amp (which will be in the wall of the bronco) will be pretty well hidden. (thinking of adding two PC fans to help cool the amp?) There's a lot of advantages to this box. They also make a 10" version that's a bit smaller...

I'm thinking I can run two Kicker CompQ subs in here. At 850w RMS x 2, I should exceed the RMS by 100w.

1) Will the 3600w peak power be too much for these subs or am I over thinking it?
2) Ported... I was going for sealed for the response. Will this sound laggy?
3) What's the best way to wire these with this amp? Should I be getting the 4ohm DVC so I can run the amp at 1 ohm, like depicted here?

Or would I be better off with something like this?

Thanks everyone!
 
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I haven't read through the thread but 1 thing I will say is since it's a b&o system system integration can be quite difficult or costly. I'm not entirely sure what is available for the broncos if you need a navtv or some other most integration device or a simple t harness.

Most would likely try a simple high low level convertor(or use an amps built in one) on just the sub right now for signal. Now what that signal looks like we don't know without hooking it up to an rta. I doubt it plays all the way down to 20hz flat and is probably highpassed a good bit higher to protect the factory sub.

Amps are personal preference and subs well kinda the same. I'm on a stereo Integrity kick right now as that product has impressed me. But as stated before if you ride with the top off much at all marine amps probably should be a consideration. Ddaudio has a few compact marine amps that put out decently as does sundown and several other brands.

For subs it may be worth looking at a sub with a water resistant cone made of polymer, carbon/Kevlar, or a metal of some sort.
 
Hi! It's me again. I bet you're wondering how I got in this position... lol

So, I've had the Kicker CXA1800.1 sitting in my office for 2 months. I'm about to make my purchase on subs and a box. I was searching the internet just in case.... I didnt want to miss any options. And I came across this beauty.

Down firing means the subs are protected from the weather. Bolted in is a theft deterrent, especially with the top off. Looks cool. Gives me my entire cargo floor. Mounting it that close to the wall means the wiring to my amp (which will be in the wall of the bronco) will be pretty well hidden. (thinking of adding two PC fans to help cool the amp?) There's a lot of advantages to this box. They also make a 10" version that's a bit smaller...

I'm thinking I can run two Kicker CompQ subs in here. At 850w RMS x 2, I should exceed the RMS by 100w.

1) Will the 3600w peak power be too much for these subs or am I over thinking it?
2) Ported... I was going for sealed for the response. Will this sound laggy?
3) What's the best way to wire these with this amp? Should I be getting the 4ohm DVC so I can run the amp at 1 ohm, like depicted here?

Or would I be better off with something like this?

Thanks everyone!
Personally, I run my subs at 2 or 4 ohms, not 1. That amp is most efficient at 4 and has the least amount of motor control at 1 (which it is not stable at, so a no go) but this applies to all amplifiers. Additionally, I prefer that at 2 or 4 ohms, the amp has about 25% to 50% more power than rated to provide additional headroom. Consider the following info when it comes to volume and power. The ear hears a doubling of the sound at around 9-10 db. Wattage will give you the following increase in output/volume.

900 to 1800 watts +3 db (33% louder)
1800 to 3600 watts another +3 db or 66%louder than 500 watts.
3600 to 7200 watts, another +3 db or 99% louder or a doubling of the volume to the ear.

That Kicker amp puts out 1800 watts at 2 ohms, 900 at 4 and can't be run at 1 ohm so the 1 ohm option is out. At 2 ohms that is roughly a 33% difference in volume from the amp over 4 ohms. The ported box is another way to get that 3 db boost. So, you could run the ported box at 4 ohms and it will be as loud as the sealed box at 2 ohms but will not be tuned quite as low. If you go ported, I would run the two subs in a series parallel configuration at 4 ohms total with 900 watts, that is quite loud. Then again, if you're shooting for just loud to the point of drowning out the rest of the system (something you really need to consider) then go for the two ohm load and ported for maximum volume.

I just think that 900 watts on a ported box will be very loud, will let the amp breath and you'll be rewarded with the best of the combination options. On that note, a 2 ohm load (1800 watts) to a set of the same woofers stuffed/sealed would be as loud as the 900 watts to the ported set but would sound a bit tighter/controlled.
 
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