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Audio System Setup

Found 29 results

  1. Hi, thanks in advance for any help. I've added a leisure battery to my van, using the wiring in this video: https://youtu.be/oOQHe_cZtI4?t=1044 I have this amp: https://www.caraudiocentre.co.uk/product_m-pioneer-gm-d8704_p-41014.htm and this head unit: https://www.pioneer-car.eu/uk/products/deh-s3000bt I'm assuming the head unit will be fine if I wire it in to the fuse block (this one: https://www.amazon.co.uk/gp/product/B01IVRC9RA/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o01_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1). Should I re-wire the permanent or ignition switched terminal from the back of the head unit to the fuse block. And my main question... For the amp, Should I be connecting that via 16mm cable straight to the battery (or to the isolator switch in this case) and does it need its own fuse. Thanks Tom
  2. Dylan Woods

    PLEASE HELP

    to whoever reads this, I am extremely naive on car audio. I have a 2014 Dodge Avenger with a 600W Kicker Amp with 2 12” Kicker Subs. They recently stopped working going in and out only staying on for maybe 3 seconds. I took it to a garage and they said my amp wasn’t strong enough everything kept going into safety mode. I want to upgrade but I don’t want to get ripped off due to me being naive. I want to get 2 15” inch subs, a compatible amplifier, and new tweeters. I’m not afraid to put down a decent amount of money I just don’t want to go over $2,000 for what I listed plus instillation. I got a rate for 2k for all of that stuff it would be tezla brand. I live in myrtle beach and during bike week I always hear cars with the deepest bass and loudest treble. I want to go deaf and I want to shake houses from a block away. I need suggestions on the best equipment to get
  3. Hey guys I'm fairly new to car audio but I need to find the source of my system having really high pitchy ness when the high notes are hit on just about any song at decently high volume. I talked with a friend of mine he said first adjust the EQ to lower the right part of the line graph down which is whta I believe the treble. I did this by lowering them from high 9/9 all the way down to zero at the very rightmost part of it. Then he told me to lower the gain. So I have a few questions with this. Which gain is he talking about? Because I've narrated through and I found the DTE gain and I also found the gain for front left front right rear right and rear left as well as the sub in the crossover and also the tweeter. I don't wanna mess with this too much until I know what I'm doing for sure because I don't wanna blow my speakers out since they are already clipping pretty bad. I had adjusted all the gains to -3db from zero I hope I didn't do something wrong. I'm using a Kenwood KDC-X303 cd receiver. Let me know thanks again for reading.
  4. Hello guys, recently I bought an amplifier over ebay. The model is: Pioneer - GM 3000 the version with 8DIN connectors at the back, however seller didn't mention that. So I spoke to an electrical mechanic who added chinches to this connectors and tried the amplifer locally at the workplace and it's working. Whenever I tried to connect it to my car, it does start for a couple of seconds, but the noise is really strange like I have a broken speaker and then it turns off. He told me maybe bad ground or something, but I tried on a different car with differents cables and it remain the same issue. I thought to myself if the cables aren't strong enough maybe they don't provide the necessary power to supply this monster the cables I ordered are these: Cables I ordered I connected everything as it supposed to be, but it doesn't work at all. It starts for a couple of seconds then it turns off, maybe goes in protect mode but I don't understand this very much. Any advice appreciated also if you have service manual for this model: Pioneer GM-3000 I will be very happy.
  5. Hey all, I recently had a very well respected car audio place in town here install the Pioneer 4400nex in my 2003 trailblazer ltz with the bose sound system. Now, they say they're going to take care of fixing it, but I would like to try and figure out what's going on incase they try to sell me something I do not need. So, when I am sitting, engine off, key turned on, the stereo works great, sound comes through, head unit on. If I start driving, it will play for a few seconds to a few minutes, and the head unit stays on, the song continues playing, but I can hear nothing. It happens on radio, aux, carplay... All sound sources. Now, when I stop, turn off the engine, but the ignition stays on, the sound kicks back on immediately. There is a squealing noise while the stereo turns on, not a huge deal, kind of annoying but not a deal breaker. Any clues? The shop said it could be a few things, but obviously wouldn't guarantee which was the source of the problem, as they haven't looked at it in detail yet. They said it could be the GM class II data bus, head unit, or "more likely your amplifier." I think they might just be trying to sell me an amp, and know what the problem is. I would appreciate any and all input as to what could be causing this, so I can hopefully tell if they're scamming me or if they actually found a problem with my amp. Thanks Luke
  6. Robert Blackham

    What is it worth?

    I just picked up a Pyle Plmra 1000D 2000 Watt Block Amplifier for 70 bucks. It's basically brand new and I was just wondering what they normally sell for. Wasn't able to find anything as far as prices online. Thanks for the help.
  7. So I bought the cheapest car around and of course, it has a crap sound system. fortunately, I had 2 pair of speakers laying around: - PIONEER TS-R6951S 400W 3-Way (this one I want to put in the back) - Boston exl-60c 25w RMS 220w (and these ones in rear passenger seats) and I plan to buy another 2 pair to put in the front door side for the driver and other passengers PIONEER 600W TOTAL 2-WAY 6.5 INCH. However, since I'm new to this type of hobbies/ DIY I don't know anything other than how to make the installation, so the thing I want know is if I need a new stereo player and an amp as well or I easily make the setup work without either of them, and is there anything I am missing. if I put a new stereo I will lose the controls from the steering wheel. Btw before installing the speaker I'm definitely going to revest the sides of the door with sound proofing/vibration deadening sheets to improve the sound ofc.
  8. View Listing Sony ES XM-5046 4 channel amp Made in Japan Sony ES XM-5046 4 channel amplifier amp (old school, made in Japan when Sony was good) 60x4@4 ohms100x4@2 ohms180x2@4 ohms bridgedThey are 1 ohm stereo/2 ohm mono stable. I have read in several places that they will do over 300x2@2 ohms bridged. They have dual built-in cooling fans and a pretty small footprint. The end cover screws are getting stripped but are still usable, and there is a small bit of corrosion on the bottom corner of the frame as seen in photos. Nothing to be concerned about IMO. $100 shipped CONUS. Advertiser eddie_93 Date 02/23/2019 Price $100.00 Category Amplifier Classifieds  
  9. This advert is COMPLETED!

    • FOR SALE
    • USED

    Sony ES XM-5046 4 channel amplifier amp (old school, made in Japan when Sony was good) 60x4@4 ohms100x4@2 ohms180x2@4 ohms bridgedThey are 1 ohm stereo/2 ohm mono stable. I have read in several places that they will do over 300x2@2 ohms bridged. They have dual built-in cooling fans and a pretty small footprint. The end cover screws are getting stripped but are still usable, and there is a small bit of corrosion on the bottom corner of the frame as seen in photos. Nothing to be concerned about IMO. $100 shipped CONUS.

    $100.00

    , Colorado

  10. asilayinruins

    Crescendo BC5500D

    View Listing Crescendo BC5500D Stable down to .5ohm on strong electrical.Up to 18.5v capable. 5800watts @1ohm on 13.8v Had the amp sitting in my room unused for about a year, needing to get rid of it. Now I'm finally selling it. They just discontinued the bc5500 for the new 6k. They're sold out. If you know crescendo, you know they mean business! And the bc5500 has been ran by many well known/respected competitors. Overall great amp, tons of power. Had no problems running. Always had good electrical running to it. Cosmetic: 9/10 pretty much 10/10 not much, if any, scratches Performance: 10/10 Advertiser asilayinruins Date 02/19/2019 Price $750.00 Category Amplifier Classifieds  
  11. asilayinruins

    Crescendo BC5500D

    This advert is COMPLETED!

    • FOR SALE
    • USED

    Stable down to .5ohm on strong electrical.Up to 18.5v capable. 5800watts @1ohm on 13.8v Had the amp sitting in my room unused for about a year, needing to get rid of it. Now I'm finally selling it. They just discontinued the bc5500 for the new 6k. They're sold out. If you know crescendo, you know they mean business! And the bc5500 has been ran by many well known/respected competitors. Overall great amp, tons of power. Had no problems running. Always had good electrical running to it. Cosmetic: 9/10 pretty much 10/10 not much, if any, scratches Performance: 10/10

    $750.00

    MILILANI, Hawaii - US

  12. Hello, I would like to know how to connect a crossover to the amplifier. there are 2 crossovers that have 2 way and 3 way they have in+ and in- and for tweeters, sub and medium. thanks regards
  13. I am confused on how you tune an amp and line out converter at the same time. I have an LP7-2 LOC, and R1100M Amp and they both have gain knobs on it. I understand that for each, if tuning by ear, you need to put your radio at 3/4ths volume, play a 40hz test tone, and then turn the gain knobs up until the subwoofer starts audibly distorting, but how do you do it both? The only thing I can think of is to just leave the LOC at 100% gain and then turn the amp up until it starts to distort and then leave it right before it distorts, but is that really the right way?
  14. iAudio

    New subs and amp (Nemisis)

    Hello, Im looking at buying 2 Nemesis Audio 12s both rated at 1500 watts rms. Subs powered by the Nemesis Audio 3000W Amp. Does anyone have any experience with these subs and the amp? Is it actually 3000w max rms, or is that a fake number to draw attention. Thanks
  15. I have a fusion fp-402 amp connected to two sony xplod subs , there hasnt been a problem with it since i connected them at home about 1,5 years ago , just last night i turned them up and they were cutting out , when the volume is turned up the protection light starts flickering when the bass hits , the amp is also powered by a 620w pc powersupply
  16. varano_ohms

    Amplifier -- Sub -- PSU -- Speakers

    Hi, do you connect the amplifier to the 2 jacks (RED-WHITE) behind the radio and the sub do you connect it to the amplifier? having a 250w psu is enough for sub amplifier and a 2x 60w speakers? car radio aiwa 40Wx4 Thanks Regards
  17. I have purchased a sub, amp and complete wiring package to install in my caddy (14 plate) but can’t find a way through the bulkhead for the power cable from the battery. All grommets seem un-accessible without removing things. Just wondering if someone has already installed one and managed to get a cable through.
  18. Hi, this is my first post! Any help would be much appreciated. Now I am looking at getting 2 subwoofers and these are Pioneer TS-W311D4 (12" Champion Series DVC 4 ohm). These subs perform at 800 watt rms combined (400 watt rms each) and I'm going to wire the DVC in parallel and in parallel with the amplifier to make a total 1 ohm load. Now I have 2 amplifiers in mind and these are the Pioneer GM-D9601 or the Pioneer GM-D8601 and these of course are 1 ohm stable. So the GM-D9601 performs 1200 watt rms at 1 ohm and the GM-D8601 performs at 800 watt rms at 1 ohm (which would be a perfect match). So my question is, is it a good idea to buy the GM-D9601 and have more "headroom" or just match the rms ratings and get the GM-D8601? And would I be right in thinking that the GM-D9601 will run cooler as it won't be as stressed as the GM-D8601? Thank you :)
  19. Hello folks! I'm currently putting together a modest SQ build and have run into a bit of a snag with subwoofer, enclosure, and amplifier selection and would greatly appreciate some advice on the matter. The snag is my lack of familiarity with the current "good brands" and the strange lack of shops willing to demo SQ subwoofers or their "high end" subwoofers. While the overall goal is excellent sound quality, I am an oldschool basshead at heart and still want exceptional levels of loud when the mood strikes me. I have, over a few decades, owned various sizes of subwoofers and enclosures and have found that they all have their own merrits however, my favorite subs/enclosure were 2 Soundstream SS10R's (circa mid nineties) sealed with a 600w monoblock supplying the juice. I would love to have something that either matches the level of output and accuracy of that set up or exceeds it, in terms of sonic transparency, as well as the ability to compliment my front stage set up and rattle some door parts loose. I have access to Arc Audio, Hertz, Focal, FI, DD, DA, JL, Audio Frog, Sun Down, and Fosgate. I would prefer to stay within a budget of $1500 for sub(s) and amplifier. The environment is a 2018 Mustang GT, and I have, roughly 3 cubic feet to use for enclosure space. The build, so far, is as follows: •Hertz Mille pro 163.3 three way front stage fully active. •Arc Audio XDi 1200.6 •Arc Audio PS8 DSP Any help would be greatly appreciated!
  20. SPEAKER: MB Quart QS216 (1-pair) AMP: ? CAPACITOR: ? Looking for amp to match MB Quart speakers rated at 80/170w. Power rating is 4 ohms. I only prefer to shop at sonicelectronix. I found a couple 2channel-ClassAB amps that have an rms ranging from 100-150w. Are there any benefits in going above RMS but still way below the max wattage output? I want to emphasize keeping the gain below 50% as I had a terrible experience a couple years ago and i'm back at it finally! Then, once I have my amp I want to be able to support it with a capacitor. So let's just assume my amp is 1000w should I double the farad from 1 to 2 at this point or triple it? The following are amps based on an arbitrary factor where I subtracted the max wattage and rms then side viewing it with price. I don't wanna be robbed or regretting a purchase for a higher priced one (sorted by descending order by price): Rockford Fosgate Punch P500X2 Price: $270 Watt Rms: 150w Watt Max: 500w EARTHQUAKE SOUND PH800W/2 (My initial choice, any reason not to get this?) Price: $140 Watt Rms: 125w Watt Max: 800w Soundstream ST2.1000D Price: $110 Watt Rms: 140w Watt Max: 1000w Pioneer GM-A5702 Price: $115 Watt Rms: 150w Watt Max: 1000w Precision Power PPI ICE800.2 (This looks too good to be true) Price: $80 Watt Rms: 130w Watt Max: 800w Hifonics ZXX-500.2 Price: $80 Watt Rms: 125w Watt Max: 500w Planet Audio AC600.2 (Ok,....what's the catch?) Price: $60 Watt Rms: 150w Watt Max: 600w
  21. Good evening, I'd like to upgrade my stereo in a 2011 Toyota Land cruiser Prado 150. I have a factory audio system with the amplifier under the passenger seat. The only requirements are 2xUSB, Apple carplay and the ability to connect a reversing camera. The Pioneer SPH-Da120 looks as though it would be suitable. Could anyone tell me if this will connect easily to the factory speakers on my Prado. I would like all the speakers to work and be connected correctly, but I'm not at all familiar with these things. So if anyone has done this on their Prado or has any advice it would be greatly appreciated. Thanks
  22. So I'm intrested in two Soundstream T5.122 Tarantula T5 Series 2,000 Watt 12″ Subwoofers each is rated at 1,000 RMS. I used the amplifier slection tool on https://www.sonicelectronix.com/Matching-Subwoofers-Amps/2-63-94454?filter_f_op_123=232 . I know I want a class D mono amplifier and I want each speaker to have 1,000 or more RMS but no more than 1,500. I'm planning on adding this to my 2004 Ford F150 XLT Extended Cab. The vehicle has a OEM 110A alternator and a regular 12V battery. I need some help if whether or not I have an adequate amount of power to run the whole system.
  23. So I recently purchased 4 Polk Audio DB652's for my 2012 Subaru Impreza (with a stock in-dash stereo). I like them but I wanted more out of them so I purchased a Pioneer D9605 5 channel amp. I chose this amp because I wanted to see more output from my current 4 door speakers and a sub woofer that I am planning on getting (Rockford Fosgate P3D4 12"). I feel like I got my amp without being well informed on other factors and was wondering what some great car enthusiast think of my purchases and car audio goals. Ask any questions that I would need to further clarify to help y'all help me! Also, are the Polk door speakers I got that great? All help and recommendations are very much appreciated!!! P.s. I don't have a large knowledge of car audio if it isn't yet obvious.
  24. I am currently driving a 2004 Pontiac Grand Prix. I drove my car for about two hours today with no problems whatsoever. Once I got in the car to head out for a quick errand tonight, I found that all four of my speakers were not working, but my subwoofer was hitting. I have a 10 inch Diamond D3 in the trunk. I am unsure if the speakers are aftermarket or stock, but I do know I had a Pioneer FX-X730BS installed about half a year ago. All of the features of my head unit still work, I can alter sound settings, change the input from radio to bluetooth to USB, and I am sure all four speakers are simply not working because when I turn off the subwoofer through my head unit, the there is not a peep from the system. I do know when I started the car, I heard a subtle pop from the speakers. I tried restarting the car, I tried altering settings, I did a reset on the head unit as well. I am thinking this is an amp or fuse issue, but I have not been able to find a factory amplifier in this car online. This is not the Monsoon stereo system that come in some Grand Prix's. Any advice on where to start outside of checking my fusebox in the morning would be greatly appreciated. I am also not very hands on in terms of audio systems, so as detailed as possible would be best as electrical work tends to be my weak subject. Thanks!
  25. black_hawk_8819

    Subwoofer Hits way harder when idiling

    Hello Everybody! I am having problems with my Subwoofer not hitting real hard when my car is moving. The subwoofer hits, however, it is really light. Without adjusting the volume, I can come to a complete stop at a stoplight, and the subwoofer starts hitting super hard, shaking the entire car. I have an Alpine UTE-52BT Deck, a Rockford Fosgate R500X1D Amp, and a JL Audio 10W0v3-4 Subwoofer. Does anybody know why the subwoofer hits way harder when idling vs barley hitting when moving and a possible solution to fix this issue? Thanks in advance!
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