Help. 10W7-3 slsingle sub. Best amp??

KcContractor

CarAudio.com Recruit
I have a single 10” JlW7-3 in the red eye box. I want a really high quality amp that I can find pre-owned for a good price… what are the best ones you would recommend and why?

factory specs:

Continuous power handling 750W RMS
(1500W Peak Power)

3 OHM Mono

Frequency 20-250 Hz
 

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I run these and the EXL line from DS18, their Korean board amplifiers. THey are solid performers. The Hooligan H-KO2 puts out the right amount of juice at 3 ohms to accommodate you currently and plenty more should you add another sub.

Used/shipped $329 (new $550)


  • RMS Power @ 4 ohm: 950W
  • RMS Power @ 2 ohm: 1500W
  • RMS Power @ 1 ohm: 2000W
  • RMS Power @ 0.5 ohm: 3600W (Burst)
  • Frequency Response: 13-300Hz
  • Signal To Noise Ratio: More than 80dB
  • Efficiency @ 4ohm: 95%
  • Damping Factor: 400
  • Total Harmonic Distortion (THD): Less Than 0.2%
  • Low Level Input Range: 0.2-6V
  • Selectable X-Over: Fixed LPF
  • X-Over filter Range: 35-250Hz
  • Bass Boost Range: 0-9dB
  • Bass Boost Frequency: 45Hz
  • Infrasonic Filter: 10-50Hz
  • Phase: 0-180
  • Power Input Terminal Size: 0GA x 1
  • Fuse Size (recommended): 180A (Not Included)
  • Dimensions (LxWxH): 10.62″ x 9.68″ x 2.85″
 
I run these and the EXL line from DS18, their Korean board amplifiers. THey are solid performers. The Hooligan H-KO2 puts out the right amount of juice at 3 ohms to accommodate you currently and plenty more should you add another sub.

Used/shipped $329 (new $550)


  • RMS Power @ 4 ohm: 950W
  • RMS Power @ 2 ohm: 1500W
  • RMS Power @ 1 ohm: 2000W
  • RMS Power @ 0.5 ohm: 3600W (Burst)
  • Frequency Response: 13-300Hz
  • Signal To Noise Ratio: More than 80dB
  • Efficiency @ 4ohm: 95%
  • Damping Factor: 400
  • Total Harmonic Distortion (THD): Less Than 0.2%
  • Low Level Input Range: 0.2-6V
  • Selectable X-Over: Fixed LPF
  • X-Over filter Range: 35-250Hz
  • Bass Boost Range: 0-9dB
  • Bass Boost Frequency: 45Hz
  • Infrasonic Filter: 10-50Hz
  • Phase: 0-180
  • Power Input Terminal Size: 0GA x 1
  • Fuse Size (recommended): 180A (Not Included)
  • Dimensions (LxWxH): 10.62″ x 9.68″ x 2.85″
Thank you!!! It looks great!
 
I run these and the EXL line from DS18, their Korean board amplifiers. THey are solid performers. The Hooligan H-KO2 puts out the right amount of juice at 3 ohms to accommodate you currently and plenty more should you add another sub.

Used/shipped $329 (new $550)


  • RMS Power @ 4 ohm: 950W
  • RMS Power @ 2 ohm: 1500W
  • RMS Power @ 1 ohm: 2000W
  • RMS Power @ 0.5 ohm: 3600W (Burst)
  • Frequency Response: 13-300Hz
  • Signal To Noise Ratio: More than 80dB
  • Efficiency @ 4ohm: 95%
  • Damping Factor: 400
  • Total Harmonic Distortion (THD): Less Than 0.2%
  • Low Level Input Range: 0.2-6V
  • Selectable X-Over: Fixed LPF
  • X-Over filter Range: 35-250Hz
  • Bass Boost Range: 0-9dB
  • Bass Boost Frequency: 45Hz
  • Infrasonic Filter: 10-50Hz
  • Phase: 0-180
  • Power Input Terminal Size: 0GA x 1
  • Fuse Size (recommended): 180A (Not Included)
  • Dimensions (LxWxH): 10.62″ x 9.68″ x 2.85″
Would running it at 4 ohm 950 RMS be ok for the sub even thought the specs recommended 750 RMS?
 
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You're fine. You will run it at 1.5 ohms most likely. That is both coils wired in parallel to a single amp output.

1703826942499.png


EDIT:

Doesn't apply on a single 3 ohm VC sub, sorry.
 
Last edited:
I run these and the EXL line from DS18, their Korean board amplifiers. THey are solid performers. The Hooligan H-KO2 puts out the right amount of juice at 3 ohms to accommodate you currently and plenty more should you add another sub.

Used/shipped $329 (new $550)


  • RMS Power @ 4 ohm: 950W
  • RMS Power @ 2 ohm: 1500W
  • RMS Power @ 1 ohm: 2000W
  • RMS Power @ 0.5 ohm: 3600W (Burst)
  • Frequency Response: 13-300Hz
  • Signal To Noise Ratio: More than 80dB
  • Efficiency @ 4ohm: 95%
  • Damping Factor: 400
  • Total Harmonic Distortion (THD): Less Than 0.2%
  • Low Level Input Range: 0.2-6V
  • Selectable X-Over: Fixed LPF
  • X-Over filter Range: 35-250Hz
  • Bass Boost Range: 0-9dB
  • Bass Boost Frequency: 45Hz
  • Infrasonic Filter: 10-50Hz
  • Phase: 0-180
  • Power Input Terminal Size: 0GA x 1
  • Fuse Size (recommended): 180A (Not Included)
  • Dimensions (LxWxH): 10.62″ x 9.68″ x 2.85″

You're fine. You will run it at 1.5 ohms most likely. That is both coils wired in parallel to a single amp output.

View attachment 55660
Ok, now that makes sense. Thank you!!
 
See how badly I need help lol. I don't know what I'm doing. I'm definitely going to seek help with install and hoping you guys can point me in the right direction of the best possible amp used or new in the $300 range

You have an endless amount of choices in your price range. It really comes down to what specific criteria you have. For example, is the size of the amp a big factor in your choice cause space is limited? Do you want to go with a half bridge style amp or a full bridge type? Do you have a color preference on the amplifier? Do you need good quality onboard Xovers? Due to the subwoofer being an oddball 3 ohm and everything these days making power at 1 ohm, that kind of ***** lol. You have to buy a pretty powerful amp so that it gets you decent power at 3 ohm. If you go for the Korean half bridge amps, this can be a little pricey and if I was in your shoes, if I’m gonna spend the money I’m gonna want the better of the Korean offerings. If that’s the case I’d go for something built by Zenon factory, brands that use that factory are ampere audio, amp lab, incriminator audio, crescendo etc. If you are open to full bridge amplifiers which are more efficient a taramps would do the trick but the onboard Xovers are junk. These also tend to not like low voltage but in your application I highly doubt you will even get close to that. Good news you can buy brand new and be under $300 🥳. If im not mistaken, your sub is a single 3 ohm, not a dual 1.5 ohm so 3 ohm is your only option 🥺
 
The JL is a great amp, and yes, you pay for it too. If you are planning on anything down the line, you will need to consider that too. I don't think you can go wrong with any of these configurations as long as you are aware of the limitations. The JL comes in a little underpowered in this group.
 
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You have an endless amount of choices in your price range. It really comes down to what specific criteria you have. For example, is the size of the amp a big factor in your choice cause space is limited? Do you want to go with a half bridge style amp or a full bridge type? Do you have a color preference on the amplifier? Do you need good quality onboard Xovers? Due to the subwoofer being an oddball 3 ohm and everything these days making power at 1 ohm, that kind of ***** lol. You have to buy a pretty powerful amp so that it gets you decent power at 3 ohm. If you go for the Korean half bridge amps, this can be a little pricey and if I was in your shoes, if I’m gonna spend the money I’m gonna want the better of the Korean offerings. If that’s the case I’d go for something built by Zenon factory, brands that use that factory are ampere audio, amp lab, incriminator audio, crescendo etc. If you are open to full bridge amplifiers which are more efficient a taramps would do the trick but the onboard Xovers are junk. These also tend to not like low voltage but in your application I highly doubt you will even get close to that. Good news you can buy brand new and be under $300 🥳. If im not mistaken, your sub is a single 3 ohm, not a dual 1.5 ohm so 3 ohm is your only option 🥺
Ah, was just going to check on that. Single 3 ohm. For the money and to get the most out of this sub, get the H-KO2, puts out about 1200 watts at 3 ohms. Turn down the gains a bit, you'll have loads of power and your amp will not work hard to get you there.
 
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You have an endless amount of choices in your price range. It really comes down to what specific criteria you have. For example, is the size of the amp a big factor in your choice cause space is limited? Do you want to go with a half bridge style amp or a full bridge type? Do you have a color preference on the amplifier? Do you need good quality onboard Xovers? Due to the subwoofer being an oddball 3 ohm and everything these days making power at 1 ohm, that kind of ***** lol. You have to buy a pretty powerful amp so that it gets you decent power at 3 ohm. If you go for the Korean half bridge amps, this can be a little pricey and if I was in your shoes, if I’m gonna spend the money I’m gonna want the better of the Korean offerings. If that’s the case I’d go for something built by Zenon factory, brands that use that factory are ampere audio, amp lab, incriminator audio, crescendo etc. If you are open to full bridge amplifiers which are more efficient a taramps would do the trick but the onboard Xovers are junk. These also tend to not like low voltage but in your application I highly doubt you will even get close to that. Good news you can buy brand new and be under $300 🥳. If im not mistaken, your sub is a single 3 ohm, not a dual 1.5 ohm so 3 ohm is your only option 🥺
Well, I only understood about 75 percent of what you were saying. I would like something that takes up as little space as possible without compromising the sound quality. In a perfect world it would be black or red but that really doesnt matter much to me. I'm not sure about the meaning of the half bridge and full bridge are tbh.
 
The JL is a great amp, and yes, you pay for it too. If you are planning on anything down the line, you will need to consider that too. I don't think you can go wrong with any of these configurations as long as you are aware of the limitations. The JL comes in a little underpowered in this group.
Thanks Doxquzme
 
Half-bridge in this group is the Korean Circuit board design. Full-bridge is what is commonly referred to as the Brazilian circuit board design. Used to be the inexpensive go-to watt for dollar amplifiers, until voltage issues came into play and they had significant thermal issues. Much of that has changed as the full bridge amps have evolved. With that evolution, the better ones are starting to cost as much as the others so much of their appeal (watt for dolar) has diminished somewhat. The full bridge amps are about half the size but require much more stable voltage. One of the appeals of the JL is it's regulated power supply, hard to overdrive or break. Unfortunately, it's a bit underpowered in this group.

I generally prefer to run my subs at higher impedances anyway, everything runs cooler, last longer and performance of any amplifier is most efficient and controlling at 4 ohms. You're close at 3 so power is important. I have the H-KO3, running at 4 ohms, 1500 watts to dual 400 watt RMS subs (RMS 800 total). I have the gains tuned accordingly and the amp barely breaks a sweat. THat's just how I prefer to set up my equipment. I'm loud as hell if I want too, but not concerned about extracting every little bit of juice to win some SPL competition.
 
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Well, I only understood about 75 percent of what you were saying. I would like something that takes up as little space as possible without compromising the sound quality. In a perfect world it would be black or red but that really doesnt matter much to me. I'm not sure about the meaning of the half bridge and full bridge are tbh.

Put it like this, the JL amps, those are full bridge amps. The Korean surf boards are half bridge amps that can also be strapped. They are two different ways to make power and to be honest, full bridge while it’s gets a bad name from the ones that are cheaply made and those who run stock electrical expecting it to handle a 8k and then cry about online when the amp blows, it’s the best way to make power in class D’s (my opinion of course). It’s cheaper, more efficient, uses half the amount of parts, and operates at half the voltage on the rails.
 
Let’s be honest. Even a cheaper 1 ohm stable full bridge amplifier is going to be fine running a 3 ohm load. A Taramps Hd3000 1 ohm makes 1140 watts rms at 4 ohms. It will give that w7 all that it wants and then some, and costs like $165 on Amazon. The only downside is that the built in crossovers ****. If you have a headunit with built in crossovers, you would be fine.
 
Let’s be honest. Even a cheaper 1 ohm stable full bridge amplifier is going to be fine running a 3 ohm load. A Taramps Hd3000 1 ohm makes 1140 watts rms at 4 ohms. It will give that w7 all that it wants and then some, and costs like $165 on Amazon. The only downside is that the built in crossovers ****. If you have a headunit with built in crossovers, you would be fine.
I'd still spend a little more if going full-bridge, like the Taramps Amplifier SMART 3 BASS , it's designed specifically to address some of the more glaring shortcomings of previous models and is still reasonable at around $250.
 
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