new car


Lasherž

CarAudio.com Veteran
Apr 27, 2020
824
183
United States
Thanks for the response. This car did not come with a backup camera. I will probably do that later on. I did look up how to do the steering wheel controls. You have to tap into a couple of pins. Im not a fan of using tapping connectors. Id rather cut and solder. Unless there are some good connectors for this that I have not yet found
If the kit that you bought doesn't account for the steering wheel controls without modifying the car's wiring then I'd recommend buying another piece that allows that conversion without modification. Not all kits are complete, which is why new cars are such a pain in the butt sometimes. I agree tapping is generally bad unless there's no other way and piercing tap connectors are especially crap. I use plug-in harnesses, solder, and heatshrink when possible.
 
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Christine74

CarAudio.com Enthusiast
Jun 22, 2020
38
5
New Hampshire
If the kit that you bought doesn't account for the steering wheel controls without modifying the car's wiring then I'd recommend buying another piece that allows that conversion without modification. Not all kits are complete, which is why new cars are such a pain in the butt sometimes. I agree tapping is generally bad unless there's no other way and piercing tap connectors are especially crap. I use plug-in harnesses, solder, and heatshrink when possible.
According to things I've read online, the kit I got is pretty good. I think there are 3 connections. I will have to look. Its the axxess-asw-1. I think that's the model, its off the top of my head.
I've been using these cool little connectors with solder built in. You just use a heat gun.
 

Lasherž

CarAudio.com Veteran
Apr 27, 2020
824
183
United States
According to things I've read online, the kit I got is pretty good. I think there are 3 connections. I will have to look. Its the axxess-asw-1. I think that's the model, its off the top of my head.
I've been using these cool little connectors with solder built in. You just use a heat gun.
Yeah, I did some reading on it and it's pretty comprehensive. It seems like you might be able to get away with doing all of your soldering on the radio side of the harness. There's a video on youtube showing a guy that didn't do that, but if there's continuity through the harness there's no reason to tap the car's side of that. The only situation where you might have to modify the car itself is if there's a blank spot on the radio harness's connector so it's not passing the wire you need. In that case I would modify the radio's harness to include the pin in question and connect the adapter's wire to the new pin instead.


They're just standard connectors like this forced into the back of the harness after being crimped. This is the preferable way in my opinion if you can achieve continuity through to the wire they want you to tap.
 

Lasherž

CarAudio.com Veteran
Apr 27, 2020
824
183
United States
My plan is to connect to the radio side. I firgot yo buy the Bluetooth adapter. So I'm putting this on hold for a bit.
I think you should be able to no problem, I even doubt you'll have to add a pin to the connector. I'm pretty sure the reason why they talk about integrating with the car's wiring is only because the colors between different brands of radio are all different whereas their guides are specific to your vehicle and the goal is to make sure if you follow the instructions it'll be a working product. They don't necessarily expect a normal end-user to add pins to a connector that doesn't have one they need.
 
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Christine74

CarAudio.com Enthusiast
Jun 22, 2020
38
5
New Hampshire
So, one would have thouggt it would be straightforward. However, i think the adapter i have is going to need to be pinned. There are supposed to be 3 wires coming from the cars plug. #6 is positive A. #16 is positive B. #15 is the ground. The only wire that is present on ny adapter is #16. To be fair.. i havent been able to see what the actual plug is from the car. I just looked at adapter.
 

Lasherž

CarAudio.com Veteran
Apr 27, 2020
824
183
United States
So, one would have thouggt it would be straightforward. However, i think the adapter i have is going to need to be pinned. There are supposed to be 3 wires coming from the cars plug. #6 is positive A. #16 is positive B. #15 is the ground. The only wire that is present on ny adapter is #16. To be fair.. i havent been able to see what the actual plug is from the car. I just looked at adapter.
Luckily the plug pins are standardized and you should be able to make all of the pieces indoors instead of filling up the car with solder smoke. Since you'll be on the adapter side I'd recommend just using heatshrinkable marine crimps for #16, going direct to a terminal connector on the frame for #15 ground, and adding a pin on the harness for #6 that goes to a soldered and heatshrunk connection with the conversion unit. That's if the car connector looks like the instructions say it should at least. It seems like you know what you're doing, I think you'll be just fine. The hardest part for me is always maintaining patience after devoting a lot of time to getting it right with the details then missing something fundamentally obvious.
 
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Christine74

CarAudio.com Enthusiast
Jun 22, 2020
38
5
New Hampshire
I'm still struggling to understand how this is supposed to work. I havent looked at the harness from the car. Im not understanding how the steering wheel controls will work with nothing going to the head unit. Im assuming there will be the 2 pos and ground coming from the cars harness. Only one wire comes out of that harness via my adapter. There is nothing going to the head unit.

Im alsobwonderingbabout the b/t connector. Should that just plug into the cars harness or should there be a plug on the head unit? I havent seen anything.
 

Sierra Nate

Member
May 23, 2017
67
4
Reno, NV
There is a lot of communications going through the car's CAN bus. It's kind of like a computer network's ethernet hub in that it controls all the comms on the low level stuff...stereo, hands free controls...climate controls...etc... The factory head unit wires are bundled into a loom. You should have part of your new harness that plugs into that loom. Between that harness and the CAN bus (usually just a two wire connection) you'll be interfacing with all those controls through the car's computer. Forget all that old school thought process of finding the speaker wires and tapping in. Here's an explanation https://canbuskits.com/what.php
 
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Lasherž

CarAudio.com Veteran
Apr 27, 2020
824
183
United States
I'm still struggling to understand how this is supposed to work. I havent looked at the harness from the car. Im not understanding how the steering wheel controls will work with nothing going to the head unit. Im assuming there will be the 2 pos and ground coming from the cars harness. Only one wire comes out of that harness via my adapter. There is nothing going to the head unit.

Im alsobwonderingbabout the b/t connector. Should that just plug into the cars harness or should there be a plug on the head unit? I havent seen anything.
As Sierra Nate said, the controls are digital. Most interfaces are boxes that translate the pulses sent from the steering wheel control or SWC which you'll probably see a lot in the manual. The harness from the car will be very populated, I doubt you'll have a single requested pin that doesn't have a corresponding car harness wire. At that point you'll just need to figure out if your stereo harness has the wire needed. During the interface not all wires are carried into the new unit and that's where your potential for lost features is. The adapter that you bought is from a reputable company that's very familiar with car stereo wiring, I suspect that it'll be plug and play minus maybe just those 3 wires you were talking about earlier and they'll be covered in the instructions as to what to do with them.

When you say only one wire comes out of the harness there's going to be multiple harnesses which do different things, the instructions should be pretty good on the new harnesses but understand some harnesses have copies of wires you won't need. Like for example the ANC module has a Bat+, ground, and control. If you're bypassing the ANC then it'll probably be a very simple harness. If you need more help though feel free to take a photo of each of the harnesses and I'll try and piece together why if it doesn't work as intended per the instructions if it indeed doesn't work on the first attempt.
 
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Christine74

CarAudio.com Enthusiast
Jun 22, 2020
38
5
New Hampshire
Thanks so much for your help. Im feeling rusty... i havent done a stereo install in 20 years. The steering wheel stuff is new to me. I have done remote starts and backup cameras where I had to tap into a factory harness
 

Lasherž

CarAudio.com Veteran
Apr 27, 2020
824
183
United States
Thanks so much for your help. Im feeling rusty... i havent done a stereo install in 20 years. The steering wheel stuff is new to me. I have done remote starts and backup cameras where I had to tap into a factory harness
Yeah this new stuff is a whole other league compared to old stuff unfortunately. Now days getting a radio stolen with wire snips behind the harness is almost a death sentence for the prospects of ever using the audio system again short of an insane bill and/or lots of failed attempts. I looked at a new chevy impala last week that had the factory radio cut out of it and someone had bought a harness from a local junkyard and poorly crimped every wire back on. It probably took them the whole day to do it and yet when I was done doing the harness work on the radio it didn't work because one of their connections was bad. I've got a lot of patience with radio harnesses outside of a car, but inside I just give up if it takes more than an hour with little progress.

Luckily there's a few companies that make adapters and harnesses, but I think the biggest downside of those companies is that in order to be economical they have to have one-size-fit-all solutions that work with tons of cars and that naturally leads to cracks where the instructions may not be so good for one model or maybe "this wire does nothing on 99.5% of car models of the last 20 years so we're going to require bodge work if they just happen to have that model." sort of stuff. I'm glad they exist but it's never going to go back to being as simple as it used to be.
 
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Christine74

CarAudio.com Enthusiast
Jun 22, 2020
38
5
New Hampshire
This forum is really kind. A lot of times I get the "she's just a girl" vibe and not much help. I get the whole loose connection frustration. No matter what, even with good crimps/connectors I've ran into a mind-boggling loose connection somewhere. I've started soldering all of my connections.
 
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Lasherž

CarAudio.com Veteran
Apr 27, 2020
824
183
United States
This forum is really kind. A lot of times I get the "she's just a girl" vibe and not much help. I get the whole loose connection frustration. No matter what, even with good crimps/connectors I've ran into a mind-boggling loose connection somewhere. I've started soldering all of my connections.
I've encountered that all too often the issues with continuity are linked to cheap connectors. I've moved up to waterproof with silicone seals and it's worked out so far as well as hydraulically crimped butt connectors with heat shrink over them. Both of those are annoying without the right tools, but If you have to do normal hand crimps then bullet connectors with a little conductive grease on the male end and heat shrink as strain relief is pretty reliable. Tricks from working on trailer wiring which will fail if you just look at them the wrong way.

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B014IU2EE2/?tag=caraudiocom-20 (requires or at least highly benefits from terminal crimpers)

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00NB14C2C/?tag=caraudiocom-20 (The end of 12v conductivity bullcrap)

A dab'll do you on the conductive grease, be very careful with it since it's hard to wash off and it'll bridge connections through a thin film of it, but it works great and seals out the elements too even if there's barely enough of it to see. Soldering is my go-to for adapter to radio harnesses, but for speaker connections I always do plugs to avoid snipping things in the future, plus I hate soldering inside a vehicle.

The trick to finding a good quality crimp is that it doesn't have a seam and it's thick. These butt connectors for example are great in any of those sizes, I'd recommend them to anyone. Super thick and the metal will go airtight with the copper strands under hydraulic force without any cracking or deformation around a seam.


My experience with loose connectors has caused me to do multiple deep-dives but I think I'm finally seeing the light lol. Tinned copper is also a godsend and the result of another deep dive I did when I was young. Corroded copper makes crappy connections and it's worth the extra cost to never have to look at it again.
 
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Christine74

CarAudio.com Enthusiast
Jun 22, 2020
38
5
New Hampshire
So now I'm finally at the point where I'm soldering all of the wires. I do have a couple of questions..
1. The black wire (ground) coming from the adapter says for Subaru only. Where does that ground go. Im thinking it needs to be pinned and go to the ground pin from the car. I have the pin layout from the car, but wanted to make sure which pin is the ground I want. (Picture attached)

2. The only wires I have left are the reverse signal from the head unit. Im not sure where it goes in this adapter.

3. Im also not sure where to connect the speed control wire.

I attached the table for the pins, but i want to be 100% sure.
22433
22434
 

Lasherž

CarAudio.com Veteran
Apr 27, 2020
824
183
United States
So now I'm finally at the point where I'm soldering all of the wires. I do have a couple of questions..
1. The black wire (ground) coming from the adapter says for Subaru only. Where does that ground go. Im thinking it needs to be pinned and go to the ground pin from the car. I have the pin layout from the car, but wanted to make sure which pin is the ground I want. (Picture attached)

2. The only wires I have left are the reverse signal from the head unit. Im not sure where it goes in this adapter.

3. Im also not sure where to connect the speed control wire.

I attached the table for the pins, but i want to be 100% sure.
1. So from looking at that pinout it looks to me like the black wire on a Subaru needs to run to the harness maybe for some sort of sensing or fusing, but on other cars it's acceptable to just run it to the vehicle chassis. Use a terminal loop or alternatively you can add the pin and run it through the harness. There's not really a disadvantage to either way. A lot of radios have two ground points, one that goes to the harness (the car's official ground near the fuse box probably) and a terminal to hook directly to the radio cage which is well connected to the chassis. In general I think having 2 is good, but adding a pin in this case isn't necessary if it's just a ground point, just make sure you sand the location around the bolt you use to get a good connection.

2. Reverse signal may not be offered on the car since it doesn't have a reverse camera. It's there because the head unit supports one. When 12v is applied to that wire the camera will take over the screen of the device until the 12v signal is discontinued. There are alternative ways to accomplish this while wiring up a camera, so for now just leave it tied off.

3. The speed control wire if you're talking about where to connect the head unit's wire it'll be with light green, pin 18. If you're saying the head unit doesn't have a corresponding use for it that's most likely because while your stock radio had volume adjust with speed, the aftermarket unit doesn't. I personally find that to be an annoying feature to enable anyways, but theoretically it can save your volume knob some use. If your head unit doesn't support it then just tie it off.
 
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Christine74

CarAudio.com Enthusiast
Jun 22, 2020
38
5
New Hampshire
Great information.. Imngoingntonleave off the reverse for now. Im wondering if there is a way to tie in at the shifter? The parking brake should be in the somewhere too.
 

Lasherž

CarAudio.com Veteran
Apr 27, 2020
824
183
United States
Great information.. Imngoingntonleave off the reverse for now. Im wondering if there is a way to tie in at the shifter? The parking brake should be in the somewhere too.
The common way that I've seen it done is to use the reverse light circuit, where they'll splice (or adapter and splice the adapter) the light bulbs or some other point in that system which I believe does interact with the shifter at least on older cars. Now days it might be computer controlled. I believe on my car the only difference between park and drive is the illumination increases while parked. I'm not sure whether this has to do with the illumination line or a park sense, but it may be worth including to get that functionality back. Does the head unit have an option for that where it requests a brake sense line?
 

Lasherž

CarAudio.com Veteran
Apr 27, 2020
824
183
United States
It has a wire for the parking signal, the speed signal, and the reverse signal.
It seems like they're usually included in the conversion harness, so it might get data from the ECU for those functions. If you can't find them on the adapter output plug then I would at least try giving 12v to the parking wire as well as the reverse wire separately to see what it does and if you care about that feature enough to route wires through the whole car potentially. As for the speed sense wire, that's just light green. VSS is the most important one of those because it apparently improves the accuracy of your navigation.

As for the brake light you can either run it through a bypass or use the brake lights circuit. The specific wiring diagram for your car's lighting system would be needed to figure out the best place to tap in for that voltage unless you go to the fusebox. My go-to would be a fuse tap if indeed you aren't given those cables through the adapter output.
 

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