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About me





Audio System Setup

Found 7 results

  1. I have tried so many things but none worked so far. I have a JVC KW-DB93BT and a McHammer Mystic 5.1 amp. When i connect 1 RCA cable to my amp from my head unit there is no whine, but as soon as i put in the other RCA cable into the head unit alternator noise starts coming from the speakers that are connected to the amp. I also tried a few fixes from this pinned topic (>>>Engine whine and ground loop fixes... take two) but none have worked so far.
  2. Hi people, first post here and I'm building my first system. I will be running an Orion XTR-2500.1Dz amp powering an HCCA 12" black coil sub. I've currently got a 150a alternator on the stock electrical in my Mk7 transit sport. My question is what alternator/battery combo will I need. The amp is rated at 2500w RMS @1Ω though it has been bench tested here : https://youtu.be/DMBV0dVAtUo at 6744w Rms (I don't know wether to believe that or not). Can anybody help me make the calculations. Thanks, Gaz.
  3. Hey guys I'm brand new to this forum and need a little help. I apologize up front if this question has already been answered. If so please shoot me a link. I've scoped the internet far and wide and can't find a good answer. Anyway, let's get to the point. I'm in the works of new audio build and I want to run a high output alternator straight to a battery bank that will power all of my subs (8 in total totaling 2700 watts rms) then I want to run a step above stock alternator to the start battery and high/mid range speakers. So here's the problem (or at least I think so). The alternator grounds to the engine directly through the mounting bolts so unless I make an insane alternator mount I can't avoid having 2 power sources sharing the same ground. Is this even a problem? Can you share the same ground or will you ultimately be connecting the batteries together? I want the systems to be completely separate but the more I think about it the more I think I'm not going to be able to do it. Any help would be appreciated. Sorry if the question is layed out poorly hard to think of the right words and terminology. As a side note in case anyone is curious, the build I'm on is 2 15" JLW0v3's, 2 12" JLW0v3, 2 10" JLW0v3's, 2 8" JLW3v3, 2 6.5" JL C7 speakers, 2 1" JL C7 tweeters, 2 5.5" JL C5 speakers, and 2 .75" JL C5 tweeters. 8 subs 8 speakers as many different sizes as possible all on a pioneer p99 in a chevy astro. All JL amps as well except for the highs and mids only because I love pioneer for multi channel applications.
  4. So I'm intrested in two Soundstream T5.122 Tarantula T5 Series 2,000 Watt 12″ Subwoofers each is rated at 1,000 RMS. I used the amplifier slection tool on https://www.sonicelectronix.com/Matching-Subwoofers-Amps/2-63-94454?filter_f_op_123=232 . I know I want a class D mono amplifier and I want each speaker to have 1,000 or more RMS but no more than 1,500. I'm planning on adding this to my 2004 Ford F150 XLT Extended Cab. The vehicle has a OEM 110A alternator and a regular 12V battery. I need some help if whether or not I have an adequate amount of power to run the whole system.
  5. Does anyone have any suggestions for me. Im looking for a high output alternator for my truck. I have an Orion HCCA 5000.1 powering 4 Sundown Audio 12's and a HCCA 2000.4 for the doors.
  6. So I got a question. Ever since I got a high output alternator there are certain songs that manage to throw my amps into protection. I’ve been scratching my head trying to figure out what it is ever since I got it, checking connections and everything I could think of and I finally figured it out. When the amps draw a significant amount of power there is a voltage regulator delay that causes the voltage to drop and come back which I know is normal. Now, that isn’t causing the amps to shut off but what I finally figured out is that the voltage regulator also has that same delay in the opposite direction causing the voltage to spike for a fraction of a second and come back to running voltage when there’s no more current draw from the amps causing the amps to go into over-voltage protection. My amps really don’t like being above 15-16 volts or so and the alt is spiking to around 16.5-17 volts and coming back down to running voltage. This usually is an issue with songs with a lot of kicks making the voltage bounce all over the place. I’m curious if they make a device that will keep the voltage from going past 15 volts or so to my amps? Or maybe another solution? Other than that the alt is running like a champ! Thanks in advance for your guy’s advice!
  7. I have a 2000 dodge caravan that I've been slowly turning into a (nice) car. and I recently upgraded the alternator to a 130amp because the original was a 70amp piece of garbage. I want to wire up some interior lights and also some extra charging ports for the back seats. but i'm not sure how much power I have left to draw from the alternator. I have a pioneer head unit, with a 10amp fuse (so I'm assuming it won't draw anymore then 10amps) and a infinity reference 611a with 2 30amp fuses. I don't have any head light dimming to speak of. but I'm not sure how close I am to the amps max output when I'm cranking the sound, which I do frequently. the car is a base model, meaning, manual windows, manual seats, manual mirrors, no power locks, no alarm, not even abs or traction control. there is very little to speak of electrically in the car. I figure, I probably have like 30-40 free amps before maxing out the alt? but I wanted a second opinion.