2018 Mustang Amp Noise When I Close the Driver’s Door Only

[Thorhadahammer]

So I installed the kicker hs10” under seat sub last night.

Btw, it’s true that once it breaks in it’s way better.

Anyway, I have it all hooked up correctly and grounded it to the body directly.

I have it grounded on the driver’s side floor/side cab.

I also tried grounding it to the battery to see if it would stop and also to anothe ground on the strut mount.

When the driver door is open there is no ground loop or alternator noise but when I close the door the sub does a roar when it’s at 1500-200 rpm!

If the motor runs at that rpm it stays roaring. If I drive the car above or below those rpm’s there is no other issue at all.

I ordered an I low noise reducer and will try that but I wondered if anyone had this issue with the door closed and what could fix it.

Thanks n

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[1aespinoza Premium Member]

I ordered an I low noise reducer and will try that but I wondered if anyone had this issue with the door closed and what could fix it.

That is an odd issue. Just as a test, if possible, disconnect the power that goes to that door. Be it via fuse or unplugging the harness before it goes into the door. My assumption is that the window/locks controls may be the issue. Since most are now chip controlled and not contact point like the older models, it may be those chips reacting to the RPM. If not that, then maybe a lack of ground when the door closes. Contact could be established when the door is open therefore not creating the noise loop.

 

[Thorhadahammer]

That is an odd issue. Just as a test, if possible, disconnect the power that goes to that door. Be it via fuse or unplugging the harness before it goes into the door. My assumption is that the window/locks controls may be the issue. Since most are now chip controlled and not contact point like the older models, it may be those chips reacting to the RPM. If not that, then maybe a lack of ground when the door closes. Contact could be established when the door is open therefore not creating the noise loop.

Ok. Thanks! I’ll have to chase down the connector. Not sure where it might be.

I’m about to take the door panel off to put jbl speakers in. Maybe if I disconnect those plugs and try too.

Not sure the fix but. At lease I could track it down.

 

[1aespinoza Premium Member]

I’m about to take the door panel off to put jbl speakers in. Maybe if I disconnect those plugs and try too.

This was my original suggestion but thought it may be too troublesome so I omitted it.

 

[Old_Slapper]

I saw this issue once, many years ago. It was linked to the factory Bluetooth mic. Do you have a Factory Bluetooth option on your factory radio?

 

[Thorhadahammer]

I saw this issue once, many years ago. It was linked to the factory Bluetooth mic. Do you have a Factory Bluetooth option on your factory radio?

Yea it has a blue tooth link and also saralite.

It’s def not the sub.

So, when I just got the car last week, the right door lower 6.5” sub woofer was weathered so it rattled when it hit the same exact rpm as it is now. I thiught maybe it was making that noise just cause the speaker was all falling apart.

This isn’t the case. I jest realized that the noise I’m hearing is the same exact noise and timing in the rpm as it was before I installed the sub.

So, it’s in the car before the sub.

I just tested it and it only does it wasn’t both doors are closed. It doesn’t matter if the convertible top is up or down, when both doors are closed the factory system has an rpm noise and it’s not the sub.

There has to be a way to break that loop.

It has something to do with the doors both being shut.

Earlier I unhooked both sides window controls and it still did it.

Hmmm

 

[Thorhadahammer]

Yea it has a blue tooth link and also saralite.

It’s def not the sub.

So, when I just got the car last week, the right door lower 6.5” sub woofer was weathered so it rattled when it hit the same exact rpm as it is now. I thiught maybe it was making that noise just cause the speaker was all falling apart.

This isn’t the case. I jest realized that the noise I’m hearing is the same exact noise and timing in the rpm as it was before I installed the sub.

So, it’s in the car before the sub.

I just tested it and it only does it wasn’t both doors are closed. It doesn’t matter if the convertible top is up or down, when both doors are closed the factory system has an rpm noise and it’s not the sub.

There has to be a way to break that loop.

It has something to do with the doors both being shut.

Earlier I unhooked both sides window controls and it still did it.

Hmmm

So it’s definitely in the latch system if the doors. I have the doors open and I triggers both doors on the latch to communicate to the car that the doors are both shut. With both latches clicked as sit and the doors swung open, the rpm rose is there. As soon as I unlock one of them the roam goes away. Gotta be some way to disengage the latch communicator maybe. Dang it! Beyond my expertise level!

 

[Thorhadahammer]

So, if you unplug the wiring from the latch the road goes away but the interior lights stay on. So. I can’t do that.

Ticked. Sucks. I don’t know what to do now.

Would have to be a ford electrical engineer who knows.

I’ll call ford tomorrow and ask for a tech. Maybe they know. Maybe the latch just needs replaced. Frick

 

[1aespinoza Premium Member]

road goes away but the interior lights stay on. So. I can’t do that.

Would the noise still be present if the interior lights were turned on while the doors are closed?

 

[Thorhadahammer]

Would the noise still be present if the interior lights were turned on while the doors are closed?

Not sure. I’ll have to try that. Then I can disconnect those. Could use some sort of battery led then. Will try that tomorrow. I am tired to death of sound systems!! Haha