What do i need do stop my headlight dimming? Superbank? agm? bigger alternator?

audiobaun

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Thats a Steel Bolt that goes through the alternator casing to a Threaded outlet to an Aluminum subframe= NOT STEEL Or Metal sir
My apologies as to correct that Aluminum is within the metal department but a piss poor element for a solid metal for grounding. Copper is best for the majority of wiring in the vehicle as we still see being used in todays auto making industry and solid grounds to frame chassis used as both have been in the process for well over 50 years. Strut bolts have even been marked and are used for GROUNDING purposes to utilize for the negative source for the batteries that are installed in the rear of quite a few vehicles these days. The bolts are generally attached to the struts/shocks that are generally bolted to the frame for stability, of which is a solid ground location that can be utilized/ used for one of the Big3 ground points, the other should be at the Motor/ chassis location for a proper and solid ground loop situation.
 

audiobaun

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As I said if THERE WAS A PROBLEM I would be dimming! I am NOT not since DAY ONE and its been that way for 4 years with no issues.

OP Good luck with happens.

Not gonna sit here and argue over something especially when it works just fine with no dimming or issues or noise.
Im not going to argue with you. Im just stating Facts of proper wiring. Thats why Im giving my experience of installing for over 25 years and been around the engine bays for 30+ years as well as vehicle mechanics and around Electrical in commercial as well as vehicle electrical for 25+ years. No reason to half azz anything and expect the performance out of anything installed.If you want current to flow.. It needs to be consistent, not a bottle neck placed under stress towards less resistance= heat and failure, and maybe failure in time.
 

Wesseat

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That Ground wire to that Alt. Casing isnt the greatest spot for the Big 3. Needs be on an Engine Mount or lower portion where motor meets frame..
That ground to that Frame work??= Grind that Biche" down to Metal and place a Clean metal washer to frame then put those two ground wires back on there.
Alternator Poss wire Looks Fine
Drill a hole and place a ground terminal to a bolt on or at the FRAME and run that to a solid Distro (15$ Block) near amps for a solid ground, of which can be used for relocating that XS battery to the secondary supply source at the amplifiers. One Fused 250-300 Amp ANL Fuse holder for Power/Supply from the Starting Battery.
Use All Oga wire for Big 3 and Main ground points and Supply wiring to secondary battery.
Secondary battery to amplifiers= a Fused Distro Block
All this should equal to a pretty much BULLET PROOF Supply install for the DEMAND
So is it okay to ground the engine block to frame on the same bolt as the other ground that goes to the negative battery terminal?
And then just ground the amps direct to actual frame with 1/0?
 
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Wesseat

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All voltage looks normal to me here.. Even at Idle when Full Tilt with One battery under the hood.. But Deff not great with a Supposed 300 amp Alt.Its prob only rated at 300 amp
You should have a Birth sheet/Performance sheet that came with that Alternator when you got it. It should tell you what voltage that regulator performs at during certain RPMs when tested before it was sent out.
Id look at a 800-1000 CA, 750-900 CCA, and at least 120RES Starting AGM battery , and put that XS as a reserve as a secondary and main supply at the amplifiers. you shouldnt get any dimming out of your lights at that wattage.. Should be good up to 3-4k RMS on all your amplifiers running @Full Tilt maybe low @ 12.6 @idle. If lights still Flicker and voltage is good.. Those HID or LED lights may need a Relay to stop those from flickering.. Like a 40 amp relay( prob like $6 bucks at Orileys).
No birth sheet with the alt. I took it too a shop and it made 250 at 2500 rpms.. Which is where i run at highway speeds with the overdrive off. I dont remember what it made at idle. And jeep still has factory halogen headlights.
 

audiobaun

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So is it okay to ground the engine block to frame on the same bolt as the other ground that goes to the negative battery terminal?
And then just ground the amps direct to actual frame with 1/0?
Yes will work Excellent
 
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audiobaun

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So to get 300 amps you prob need to be at 3k more than likely?? Whamm! Im guessing you are prob only going be around maybe 150 and up @1200-1500rpms. I think you may need that extra Battery man. put that XS as a secondary for that amp supply
 

Wesseat

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So to get 300 amps you prob need to be at 3k more than likely?? Whamm! Im guessing you are prob only going be around maybe 150 and up @1200-1500rpms. I think you may need that extra Battery man. put that XS as a secondary for that amp supply
It pretty much leveled put at 250 after 2000.. We ran it up to 4k but no change
 
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audiobaun

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All voltage looks normal to me here.. Even at Idle when Full Tilt with One battery under the hood.. But Deff not great with a Supposed 300 amp Alt.Its prob only rated at 300 amps at 1800-2100 RPM so that battery (One battery is being drained before it charges back up enough to keep up with the demand.
I would get a Cranking/Starting AGM under the hood(Like A Duracell, SuperStart,Diehard or Duralast) Biggest that will fit and place that XS power in as a secondary and wire amps to that battery. Should be good to go then.
If you get this done.. You will be just fine for sure. I think you need a good starting AGM under the hood. Largest you can get in that battery spot to fit.
It pretty much leveled put at 250 after 2000.. We ran it up to 4k but no change
You can still utilize that alternator/use it . Just need add that AGM Starting battery under the hood.
Put that XS in the rear at the amplifiers. Got get your Voltage up and maintained or you are going to end up Toasting that XS battery and that Alt. I learned my lesson on two of Newish( like 4 month old red tops) Optimus Batteries and a 300 amp Mech. Alter. That Toasted the batteries and then later fried that Alt after the second exchanged new batteries.Batteries were under warranty but not that Alt.I put Orileys AGM Batteries in and another 255 amp AlterStarts alt. and never had the issues again.. But I needed that extra Voltage from batteries to keep my altb from over working and enough amperage for the system. Was an expensive lesson. You are getting within that same senerio here. I mean who has $1k to throw at batteries and another $500 for an Alt., and Loos out on another $450 on a once good alt in a single day?? I just got lucky and figured it out and my batts were under warranty
 
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audiobaun

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It pretty much leveled put at 250 after 2000.. We ran it up to 4k but no change
So that internal regulator is set @250 amps. You dont have or didnt get a 300amp Alt. You got a 250 amp alt. still can be used though as stated earlier
 
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ThxOne

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Just curious but on the 08 Wrangler, is Jeep still controlling the alternators regulator via the ECM? Or did they stop doing that?
 

Dantyson744

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I’m having some issues with power to amplifier dimming lights,clipping starts distortion around 18 on pioneer avh120 I think the volume goes to 36 or something, anyway I also am rewiring my subs I think it’s possible I had ran 2ohm duals making amp run half ohm.. harmony audio 800.1 also need to change the cheap cca wire I got with prefabricated subwoofer box (a piece of shit) it’s in. My 07Dodgeram 1500 quad cab 4x4 345 hemi 5.7 liter…. Oh yeah maybe someone’s had any similar problems with the Dodge Ram??? Thanks dudes I appreciate any feedback
 

Wesseat

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Sep 16, 2021
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Just curious but on the 08 Wrangler, is Jeep still controlling the alternators regulator via the ECM? Or did they stop doing that?
I think it is regulated by the ecm.... But idk..That was one of the questions i asked JS-alternator but they never answered.
 

ThxOne

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I think it is regulated by the ecm.... But idk..That was one of the questions i asked JS-alternator but they never answered.
I had a couple of Grand Cherokees and the alternators were controlled by the computer. When I installed an aftermarket high output alternator on one of them it was pure hell. I went back to stock.
 

Wesseat

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So that internal regulator is set @250 amps. You dont have or didnt get a 300amp Alt. You got a 250 amp alt. still can be used though as stated earlier
Yes they sell a 240 and a 300 and for my jk and supposedly they are guaranteed to exceed ratings.. I paid for the 300 but...
 

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