What do i need do stop my headlight dimming? Superbank? agm? bigger alternator?

[Wesseat]

I had a couple of Grand Cherokees and the alternators were controlled by the computer. When I installed an aftermarket high output alternator on one of them it was pure hell. I went back to stock.

Just the voltage right?

 

[ThxOne Premium Member]

Just the voltage right?

Yes. The kit I got wanted a resistor that looks like the gold ones for LED head lights put between the field coil wires then you had to use and external voltage regulator that was adjustable. I could never get it to function correctly.

This thing here:

External Voltage Regulator by-pass Kit, Chrysler Dodge Jeep and 2011 to 2014 Volkswagen Routan

Kit Gets your Alternator working again, Bypass Alternator Voltage regulator in the computer

alternatorparts.com

 

[Dantyson744]

I’m having some issues with power to amplifier dimming lights,clipping starts distortion around 18 on pioneer avh120 I think the volume goes to 36 or something, anyway I also am rewiring my subs I think it’s possible I had ran 2ohm duals making amp run half ohm.. harmony audio 800.1 also need to change the cheap cca wire I got with prefabricated subwoofer box (a piece of ****) it’s in. My 07Dodgeram 1500 quad cab 4x4 345 hemi 5.7 liter…. Oh yeah maybe someone’s had any similar problems with the Dodge Ram??? Thanks dudes I appreciate any feedback

Aaaand I was right have to run a series and then it’ll be 2 ohm at my amplifier. I’ll see what that does hopefully fixes my problem

 

[jrouter76 10+ year member]

I had a couple of Grand Cherokees and the alternators were controlled by the computer. When I installed an aftermarket high output alternator on one of them it was pure hell. I went back to stock.

Chrysler does use the ECM to regulate the ALt.I have a chrysler 300m and I had the same problem, took it to an Alt-Rebuilder and he told me and showed me that The ECM controlls the output of the Alt based on the electrical power needs of draw from the car like when you turn on the AC or Headlights.

 

[Wesseat]

Check battery voltage while vehicle is off, while vehicle is running, and while playing music and having the diming issue. I don't think you have a ground issue personally. I think you have an alternator or battery problem.

I did the same voltage drops but at 2500 RPMs. I did it at the battery and at the back of the monoblock. Everything possible electrical was shut off in the vehicle. At the battery i was 14.75 @ 2500 rpm and stereo off. But when I played the 50 hertz sine wave at 1800 watts of output the voltage fluctuated between the 14.75 and 14 even almost rhythmically up and down. When I moved back to the amplifier I was a quarter volt off of those numbers it was rhythmically fluctuating up and down between 14.5. And 13.75 volts. The AC volts on the monoblock output remain steady at 43 volts at a 1 ohm load.

 

[1aespinoza 10+ year member]

The AC volts on the monoblock output remain steady at 43 volts at a 1 ohm load.

I am still stubbornly set at your issue being a ground point to the cabin. Your amp is getting all the happy voltage it needs but your headlamps/dash panel are grounded to the cabin/quarter panels, not the chassis (hindsight of working on various vehicles).

 

[Wesseat]

I am still stubbornly set at your issue being a ground point to the cabin. Your amp is getting all the happy voltage it needs but your headlamps/dash panel are grounded to the cabin/quarter panels, not the chassis (hindsight of working on various vehicles).

That was my first thought as well and im not ruling it out. I have cleaned every ground with a dremel. both factory and what ive installed. Last night i tested all of my grounds that i had installed with a multi meter and the greatest resistance i could measure at any point was .2 ohms.. Are You are saying it could be a factory ground wire for the headlights that is my problem?

 

[1aespinoza 10+ year member]

Are You are saying it could be a factory ground wire for the headlights that is my problem?

No, the OEM ground for headlamps is more than sufficient. I am more inclined to it being a ground directly to the tub/cabin. On my truck I have 2 different grounding points to the cabin from the chassis and one from the battery. Redundant yes, but I have no issues. I know you have done all grounding points, which is irritating that you still have issues. Reason I believe it to be the cabin ground is because you cluster panel dims as well. Which is something I had until I reenforced the grounds.

 

[Wesseat]

I am still stubbornly set at your issue being a ground point to the cabin. Your amp is getting all the happy voltage it needs but your headlamps/dash panel are grounded to the cabin/quarter panels, not the chassis (hindsight of working on various vehicles).

I finally had time to put some extra 1/0 grounds on my electrical system this weekend. So in addition to the big three I added positive from my alternator 2 the fuse box by the battery. Then I added a ground from my engine to the frame rail. I moved my ground from my monoblock directly to the frame. I also added a ground from my battery to the fender where are my headlights are grounded and another from my battery to the firewall 2 a factory ground. I'm not sure what the Magic Bullet was but my dimming has improved by at least 90%. It is hardly noticeable now at Full Tilt. Thanks everyone!

 

[1aespinoza 10+ year member]

at Full Tilt.

We usually do not know if suggestions work, so thanks for the update.

 

[Wesseat]

Yes will work Excellent

I finally had time to put some extra 1/0 grounds on my electrical system this weekend. So in addition to the big three I added positive from my alternator 2 the fuse box by the battery. Then I added a ground from my engine to the frame rail. I moved my ground from my monoblock directly to the frame. I also added a ground from my battery to the fender where are my headlights are grounded and another from my battery to the firewall 2 a factory ground. I'm not sure what the Magic Bullet was but my dimming has improved by at least 90%. It is hardly noticeable now at Full Tilt. Thanks everyone!

 

[audiobaun 5,000+ posts]

You may still need a realy for those HID/LED Head lights. The majority are just sensative a hell.You may be able to find a cheap kit on Amazon if the light flickering continues.. But I think if you do a dedicated starting AGM under the hood and place that XS in the rear, you will not have any issues/ should not.The majority of the Strain and Voltage needs for the amplifier/amplifiers will drain from the rear XS before it gets to the Starting battery/ Less Jolts at the starting/ vehicle battery

 

[metalheadjoe 10+ year member]

The majority of the Strain and Voltage needs for the amplifier/amplifiers will drain from the rear XS before it gets to the Starting battery/ Less Jolts at the starting/ vehicle battery

 

[Wesseat]

You may still need a realy for those HID/LED Head lights. The majority are just sensative a hell.You may be able to find a cheap kit on Amazon if the light flickering continues.. But I think if you do a dedicated starting AGM under the hood and place that XS in the rear, you will not have any issues/ should not.The majority of the Strain and Voltage needs for the amplifier/amplifiers will drain from the rear XS before it gets to the Starting battery/ Less Jolts at the starting/ vehicle battery

i took your suggestion and added a agm and a superbank at the amps... Absolutely rock solid voltage and no dimming at all. Thanks!

 

[audiobaun 5,000+ posts]

View attachment 36771 i took your suggestion and added a agm and a superbank at the amps... Absolutely rock solid voltage and no dimming at all. Thanks!

Very nice. I usually will run 2 under the hood and 3-4 in the rear of the truck. I have very little drop in Voltage at full tilt on some music, and at really lows like Decaf idle @800-1100rpm, I would recommend placing 1" rubber grommets under each amplifier bolt down to get the amplifiers off the box and get some air under them to help from heavy vibrations from the Bass that may loosen caps or other internals eventually, or relocate them off the enclosure. I would place an inline fuse for each amp if it does not have an onboard fuse or get a dual distro fused block for the supply side. Help save your amps in the future possibly. I like Stinger Pro ANL Fuse blocks.