What do i need do stop my headlight dimming? Superbank? agm? bigger alternator?

Ive been thinking about this and the shop that initially installed the big 3 and alternator did wire it differently than what i found on xs powers website.. He ran the alt/engine ground to the battery instead of the chassis and the battery ground is ran to the frame of the jeep, not the tub metal like where my amps are grounded.. Should i ground my engine/alt ground and the battery ground to the factory firewall grounds? My amps are grounded to factory ground points on the tub near the amps. Ill attach picsView attachment 32310View attachment 32311View attachment 32312View attachment 32313View attachment 32314
NO.. JUST NOO.. Big 3... One Ground Neg=- to Battery Post - to Motor Block ,One Ground Neg=io Battery Post to Frame.. One Pos=+ wire from Alternator Power wire /charging Bolt to Pos=+ to Battery Pos Post.. One designated Ground Point at Frame on rear of the Frame/Rearend to a Distro Block distributed to amps or place all grounds to one spot from amps to rear frame/rearend. ALL CONNECTIONS NEED BE CLEANED DOWN TO METAL NOT PAINTED SURFACE. ONCE you have made your Ground point.. you can then hit the surface with paint to keep from rusting.
I thought after looking at your first drawing the Big 3 didnt look correct and then again after looking at your Engine bay highlighted drawing. The BIG 3 isnt done correctly
 
13.09 off
14.25 jeep cranked
12.49. Stereo and jeep cranked
All voltage looks normal to me here.. Even at Idle when Full Tilt with One battery under the hood.. But Deff not great with a Supposed 300 amp Alt.Its prob only rated at 300 amps at 1800-2100 RPM so that battery (One battery is being drained before it charges back up enough to keep up with the demand.
I would get a Cranking/Starting AGM under the hood(Like A Duracell, SuperStart,Diehard or Duralast) Biggest that will fit and place that XS power in as a secondary and wire amps to that battery. Should be good to go then.
 
You should have a Birth sheet/Performance sheet that came with that Alternator when you got it. It should tell you what voltage that regulator performs at during certain RPMs when tested before it was sent out.
Id look at a 800-1000 CA, 750-900 CCA, and at least 120RES Starting AGM battery , and put that XS as a reserve as a secondary and main supply at the amplifiers. you shouldnt get any dimming out of your lights at that wattage.. Should be good up to 3-4k RMS on all your amplifiers running @Full Tilt maybe low @ 12.6 @idle. If lights still Flicker and voltage is good.. Those HID or LED lights may need a Relay to stop those from flickering.. Like a 40 amp relay( prob like $6 bucks at Orileys).
 
13.09 off
14.25 jeep cranked
12.49. Stereo and jeep cranked
This is what I generally see with my truck when I run One AGM under the hood on 2500rms on sub stage and 200 rms up front when I dont power up the other 5 batteries and more amplifiers on a 255 amp alternator
12.9 off
14.6 at Ilde= 600rpm
13.2 at full tilt @ 1000 -1200 rpm
 
See I've done the negative to engine block on several vehicles and some end up with noise regardless of the quality of the wire either OFC or welding wire including a few different spots. Talked to a few people and now I've gone to the alternator bolt to battery and then to the original ground on the bolt/frame built into the quarter panel. No more noise issues.

Big 3 I do is Negative from battery to Alternator bolt, Battery positive to Alternator positive, then on the Fords they have a Positive from the Battery to the Fuse Block under the hood so one there as well and the Battery Negative to the bolt/frame that was there originally with a 2 gauge wire from factory. Will be doing all the vehicles like that from now on even friends. Of course quality of wire is a big factor as well in doing the Big 3 and a quality HO alternator of course.
 
Ive been thinking about this and the shop that initially installed the big 3 and alternator did wire it differently than what i found on xs powers website.. He ran the alt/engine ground to the battery instead of the chassis and the battery ground is ran to the frame of the jeep, not the tub metal like where my amps are grounded.. Should i ground my engine/alt ground and the battery ground to the factory firewall grounds? My amps are grounded to factory ground points on the tub near the amps. Ill attach picsView attachment 32310View attachment 32311View attachment 32312View attachment 32313View attachment 32314
That Ground wire to that Alt. Casing isnt the greatest spot for the Big 3. Needs be on an Engine Mount or lower portion where motor meets frame..
That ground to that Frame work??= Grind that Biche" down to Metal and place a Clean metal washer to frame then put those two ground wires back on there.
Alternator Poss wire Looks Fine
Drill a hole and place a ground terminal to a bolt on or at the FRAME and run that to a solid Distro (15$ Block) near amps for a solid ground, of which can be used for relocating that XS battery to the secondary supply source at the amplifiers. One Fused 250-300 Amp ANL Fuse holder for Power/Supply from the Starting Battery.
Use All Oga wire for Big 3 and Main ground points and Supply wiring to secondary battery.
Secondary battery to amplifiers= a Fused Distro Block
All this should equal to a pretty much BULLET PROOF Supply install for the DEMAND
 
My headlights constantly flicker with the bass when I have the volume over three-quarters of the way up. I have and 08 Jeep Wrangler daily driver and a sound quality setup.

My electrical system consist of a JS alternator rated at 300 amps although it only load tests 250😠, Big 3 kit, and xs power d 3400 agm under the hood. I'm running a kicker class d 1800 watt monoblock at a 1 ohm load and a focal class ab 280 watt 4 channel at a 4 ohm load.



So do you think I should add a superBank or an AGM?


Or maybe even both? I'm getting conflicting answers from everyone.


If the super bank or AGM or both are your recommended solution, how do I wire it and do I need fuses on both?


I have a drawing I will include that shows how I was planning to wire in a super bank. If i need both I will place the AGM right beside the super Bank and run a separate strand of 1/0 to a smd distribution block.View attachment 32292
You need a ground from Engine Block to Car Frame also, you got aground from car frame to Batt(-),not sure why you ran a ground from Alt frame to Batt(-)?.......
 
The. XS power battery and the JSalternator are new... What brands are u running? Ive already sent the alternator back to JS because of the dimming and it was supposed to have a output of 300 amps. JS wont tell me what they did to it while they had it but nothing changed when i got it back... Worst customer service ever. I have no idea if they even tested it.. No test results given.
They prob just hooked it up to a Bench testing board and saw that it read the 14v @idle RPM value(500-700 rpms).. of which it reads fine. You show 14.2v here. And they didnt test it any further Im sure.
 
See I've done the negative to engine block on several vehicles and some end up with noise regardless of the quality of the wire either OFC or welding wire including a few different spots. Talked to a few people and now I've gone to the alternator bolt to battery and then to the original ground on the bolt/frame built into the quarter panel. No more noise issues.

Big 3 I do is Negative from battery to Alternator bolt, Battery positive to Alternator positive, then on the Fords they have a Positive from the Battery to the Fuse Block under the hood so one there as well and the Battery Negative to the bolt/frame that was there originally with a 2 gauge wire from factory. Will be doing all the vehicles like that from now on even friends. Of course quality of wire is a big factor as well in doing the Big 3 and a quality HO alternator of course.
Try The engine block area and a much better ground location would be the Bolt at the Strut tower or Shock rather than the Flimsy thin Metal on the Quarter panel
 
It is a solid steel bracket and is in front of the quarter panel it isn't going anywhere. They make those with a solid steel bracket. Will not be doing engine block area anymore as I said too many noise issues on past vehicles no matter what I tried and the strut tower covering is hardened plastic iirc. That bolt is where the original ground was as well from factory to the battery. IF there was a problem I would be dimming I am at 14.2 all the time.

And oh no a dislike lol.
 
Lots of people do it to the alternator bolt these days. It is a steel bracket and steel bolt,works just fine.
Do it right the first time and you will never have to worry about it or take a chance of a Chitty ground point that has paint on it and not bolted the the BODY of the vehicle . SOLID GROUND TO SOLID METAL/STEEL. At a Later point when that metal bracket starts to rust or snaps or wobbles loose. More work to be done due to Noise issues of POOR GROUNDING Selection
 
There is NO Paint on those ground points. Both has been sealed twice since I bought the vehicle. No paint on either spot if I had issues I would be dimming and I AM NOT. Good grief!
 
As I said if THERE WAS A PROBLEM I would be dimming! I am NOT not since DAY ONE and its been that way for 4 years with no issues.

OP Good luck with happens.

Not gonna sit here and argue over something especially when it works just fine with no dimming or issues or noise.
 
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