Questions about wiring

What about this distro block?? Any thoughts?
There's no need for that for the money they want... You need a voltage monitor up front to monitor voltage drops. Here is a basic distro one 0 in with two 0 out. Link

This is the actual picture as it's wrong on amazon:
61FDXytL6SL.jpg


Here are the voltmeters:

Voltmeter Blue

Voltmeter Red

Voltmeter Black / White

 
Nice, so I wouldn't need the combination thing for 30$ that has the volts on the distro block itself, but get the 2 in different places? If I add up the price for the voltmeter and the block, it comes out to approximately the same price minus let's say 10$ for the combined one. Isn't it better to just get the combined one? Would it do the same thing as the one you linked? I'm buying other audio equipment from the Ebay seller I linked the distro block from, and he will combine shipping so you can take the shipping costs out of that. The combination of the block + volt meter looks nicer to me too.

Thanks for the pic I understand how this works a little better now. And thanks for this beautiful penguin. //content.invisioncic.com/y282845/emoticons/smile.gif.1ebc41e1811405b213edfc4622c41e27.gif

 
You need to monitor your voltage on your amp... Just get the stinger. You can't see your distribution block while driving... It's unnecessary.

Oh, how'd that penguin get in there?!?! ****, it's late for me... Bedtime.

 
True, but I'll be doing the testing outside and checking the voltage for a little while before driving the car. Would I need to constantly know what the voltage is? I know next to nothing about that and these numbers don't tell me anything.

 
Ok I need these questions answered directly please.

1- Is this combination of block+voltmeter a good thing if you put aside the fact that the voltmeter won't be on the dash? I'll do extensive voltage testing before running the car out of my driveway. Or do you think I should always have a voltmeter on my dash, and why?

2- Do I need this pack of 4-Gauge triple-gold-plated thing I linked, or I can easily manage with some good 1/0 Gauge wiring and the distro block I listed above, or another?

3- I live in Canada. Where is the best place I can get some good 1/0 Gauge wiring? What are some good brands, whats the difference between the brands?

4- Can I have a brief explanation of the setup? What I understand is that my DEKA secondary battery will be in my trunk. I'll be passing the 1/0 Gauge wiring from the battery in the front to the battery in the back, and from the battery in the back to the distro block which seperates into 2 different feeds for my 2 amps.

5- My first amp is 1600 rms, my second one is 440 rms. Do I need to use different wiring?

6- Where can I get a Deka Battery 105ah Intimidator in Canada?

Thanks! Please answer all questions if you can, I want to finalize this and buy the proper equipment!

 
Thank you for your input, but I'm not knowledgeable when it comes to these things. You talk to me as if I knew all this stuff lol

Can you please explain? inline fuse? how do you fuse something, what is it? I know it's a protector for surges or something, I'm really bad when it comes to electricity.

 
Thank you for your input, but I'm not knowledgeable when it comes to these things. You talk to me as if I knew all this stuff lol
Can you please explain? inline fuse? how do you fuse something, what is it? I know it's a protector for surges or something, I'm really bad when it comes to electricity.
the inline fuse is a fuse placed within 18inches of the batt + on the main run to the back of the car and for 1/0g wire it can be fuse up to 350amps but typically is fused to 300amps for the safety of headroom

when your main run ends in the trunk or where ever you would attach the distribution block.

on this block in particular you have fuse choices for you setup you need a 50 amp and a 150amp fuse.

the 150 would be for your rubi and the 50 for the tarantula respectively then just run wire from the distro to the amps

ground to good solid bare metal that is attached to the frame of the vehicle.

this kit comes with 7feet of 4gauge positive wire so you can mount the amps where you choose, and 5 feet of 4g ground. which you would cut to the length u need. the shorter the ground the better

the kit also comes with 2ft of 1/0g ground for grounding the under hood batt, one part of the big three.

 
I keep hearing this "Big 3" thing... Now that you remind me, what is it exactly? I tried looking on the forums a bit I'm still a bit confused... Thanks a whole lot for these fuse informations though! I'm starting to understand all this :p !

Oh and, since this kit you linked me even has some 4g wiring, I don't even need the 4g wiring kit I linked at the start of the thread? I should just sell it and get this kit of yours which seems so much better?

 
I keep hearing this "Big 3" thing... Now that you remind me, what is it exactly? I tried looking on the forums a bit I'm still a bit confused... Thanks a whole lot for these fuse informations though! I'm starting to understand all this :p !
Oh and, since this kit you linked me even has some 4g wiring, I don't even need the 4g wiring kit I linked at the start of the thread? I should just sell it and get this kit of yours which seems so much better?
the big 3 is the upgrading of 3 main wires in a cars charging system typically in 1/0g wire

wire 1 connects the batt + to the alternator output stud

wire 2 connects the batt - to the frame of the car

wire 3 connects the engine to the frame of the car or the batt - which ever is closer

and as far as selling the kit thats up to you. the kit i listed above should have everything you need minus rca cables and battery terminals

you will need a set of 4channel rcas and a set of 2channel rcas to run both the amps or a crap ton of y splitters. separate rcas always work better though.

and batt terminals depend on the vehicle gm cars require a side post adapters other car require top post terminals and some dont need new terminals

i personally try and keep all the wire i can you never know when you may need it and generally its not worth selling unless you already know someone who wants to buy it.

 
Ahhhh so that's what it is! Now I get it... So the "Stock" wiring in my car, if I understand correctly, is not 1/0 gauge, and thus, changing them to this type of wiring would make the efficiency of power way better? I see...

Also, can I use parts of that kit you linked me to do the big 3 and still have enough for the rest of the wiring?

What's a battery terminal?

Thanks so much for taking the time to explain all this to me. One day I'll pay the favor back to somebody new too //content.invisioncic.com/y282845/emoticons/smile.gif.1ebc41e1811405b213edfc4622c41e27.gif

 
Ahhhh so that's what it is! Now I get it... So the "Stock" wiring in my car, if I understand correctly, is not 1/0 gauge, and thus, changing them to this type of wiring would make the efficiency of power way better? I see...just add to the factory dont remove the factory and yes factory is usually 8guage or maybe 4, 1/0 is alot more efficient for voltage flow
Also, can I use parts of that kit you linked me to do the big 3 and still have enough for the rest of the wiring?maybe depends on how much you need for the run to the rear, you may need to order some more 1/0 but i dont know right off bat

What's a battery terminal? the metal clamp that attaches the wires to the battery on some gm cars its a bolt type that screws to the side of the batt

Thanks so much for taking the time to explain all this to me. One day I'll pay the favor back to somebody new too //content.invisioncic.com/y282845/emoticons/smile.gif.1ebc41e1811405b213edfc4622c41e27.gifno prob we all have to start somewhere
___

 
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