Initial DSP 408 Setup

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I'm probably going to dump the DSP and run everything through the head unit. I already fried two tweeters today, and, I think the car is small enough to not really need a DSP. The Taramps sound good, but the output on the DS800X4 is very low for some reason. The DS250X2 is very powerful for it's size. The MD30001 is incredible. Only 1/4 up on the gain and the bass is ridiculous.

horrible idea for you to just give up like that man. pm me if you want me to text you instructions with my number
 
Im guessing you blew those tweeters because you haven't figured out the HPF for them. Very easy to do when you don't have an understanding of DSPs. I used bass blockers on my nice tweeters until I got the understanding of my 80prs.

Getting rid of the DSP would be a bad idea. Take your time and do alot of reading about it. You will figure it out.
It seems like my DS250X2 puts out more than my DS800X4. Could it be a speaker difference? The DS250X2 is pushing Pioneer Pro 6.5's and the DS800X4 is pushing ABVFL65MB's. I can hear the rear Pioneers on 125 watts over the AB's with 200 watts. Why would that be? The gain on the AB's is maxed out.
 
horrible idea for you to just give up like that man. pm me if you want me to text you instructions with my number

It was just too confusing for this old geezer (51 tomorrow). You have the gain on the amp, volume on the HU, the gain on the speaker, and the main volume on the DSP. And, that's the easy part. Individual crossover points on 7 different speakers, individual EQ's on 7 different speakers. High pass, low pass, time delay, link, save, Butterworth, Riley, etc.... No wonder the guy in Vegas wants $100/hr. to tune a system with a Dayton DSP.
 
On a good note, the electrical in the Bug is a consistent 13.0-13.7 while driving. And, around 12.7 when parked and car is off, but system is on.
 

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Set maximum undistorted volume on the head unit. This is NEEDED FIRST. Find out what it is. Make sure there are no speaker wires hooked up to any amps. From there with ALL the eq settings flat on the head unit and balance and fade centered... send that max volume, undistorted signal into the DSP which also should be "All Settings Flat on the EQ's" "All levels @ 0db and full up on the DSP's volume. You can set crossovers if you like after you set the gains. Just as starting points, try these. 80hz and down to the sub (low pass). Midbass set a bandpass say @ 80hz and 1500hz. Mids bandpass 1500hz to 4500hz. Tweeters 4500hz and up (high pass). With NO speaker wires hooked to any amplifiers send Sine waves (test tones)from the head unit, through the DSP to each specific amp so you can set their gains using a multimeter set to A/C voltage. Try a -10db 40hz tone for the sub amp. Try a -5db 400hz tone for the midbass channels. Try a -5db 2.5Khz tone for mids. Try -5db 4Khz for the tweeters.

You will need to know what power you want to send to each speaker though so you will know what voltage to look for on the speaker terminals. It's not hard, it just needs to be done in a specific order. Once the gains are set... turn the volume on the head unit down to a safe level. Open the app for the DSP... set the crossovers!!!! Very important to do this now so you don't blow up any tweeters... NOW hook up the speaker wires. Turn on some music and try out different crossover points and slopes as well as types... play with the EQ's. You are on your way at this point. You can also play with the time alignments of each speaker. Rabbit Hole.

To find out the voltage do this. Know the rms wattage of the speaker and it's Ohms rating. Take the power you want to send to the speaker i.e. 100w to the midbass. They are 4 ohm speakers. 100w x 4ohm gives you 400. Find the square root of 400. We know this to be 20. So we look for 20v at the speaker output terminals on the amp. This gets you pretty close to the power we are looking for. To get closer one should use an oscilloscope or a device designed to detect distortion. Power x Ohms squared = Volts. Any corrections needed, please correct me. This is as simplified as my brain see's this.
 
Set maximum undistorted volume on the head unit. This is NEEDED FIRST. Find out what it is. Make sure there are no speaker wires hooked up to any amps. From there with ALL the eq settings flat on the head unit and balance and fade centered... send that max volume, undistorted signal into the DSP which also should be "All Settings Flat on the EQ's" "All levels @ 0db and full up on the DSP's volume. You can set crossovers if you like after you set the gains. Just as starting points, try these. 80hz and down to the sub (low pass). Midbass set a bandpass say @ 80hz and 1500hz. Mids bandpass 1500hz to 4500hz. Tweeters 4500hz and up (high pass). With NO speaker wires hooked to any amplifiers send Sine waves (test tones)from the head unit, through the DSP to each specific amp so you can set their gains using a multimeter set to A/C voltage. Try a -10db 40hz tone for the sub amp. Try a -5db 400hz tone for the midbass channels. Try a -5db 2.5Khz tone for mids. Try -5db 4Khz for the tweeters.

You will need to know what power you want to send to each speaker though so you will know what voltage to look for on the speaker terminals. It's not hard, it just needs to be done in a specific order. Once the gains are set... turn the volume on the head unit down to a safe level. Open the app for the DSP... set the crossovers!!!! Very important to do this now so you don't blow up any tweeters... NOW hook up the speaker wires. Turn on some music and try out different crossover points and slopes as well as types... play with the EQ's. You are on your way at this point. You can also play with the time alignments of each speaker. Rabbit Hole.

To find out the voltage do this. Know the rms wattage of the speaker and it's Ohms rating. Take the power you want to send to the speaker i.e. 100w to the midbass. They are 4 ohm speakers. 100w x 4ohm gives you 400. Find the square root of 400. We know this to be 20. So we look for 20v at the speaker output terminals on the amp. This gets you pretty close to the power we are looking for. To get closer one should use an oscilloscope or a device designed to detect distortion. Power x Ohms squared = Volts. Any corrections needed, please correct me. This is as simplified as my brain see's this.

Now, I see where I made so many noob mistakes. Luckily, it only cost me two tweeters ($45). I might give it one more shot on Tuesday. If I have the crossovers in my HU and parametric EQ, would I really benefit with a DSP? Not my daily. Just asking if I would be able to audibly tell a difference between HU driven or DSP driven?
 
Now, I see where I made so many noob mistakes. Luckily, it only cost me two tweeters ($45). I might give it one more shot on Tuesday. If I have the crossovers in my HU and parametric EQ, would I really benefit with a DSP? Not my daily. Just asking if I would be able to audibly tell a difference between HU driven or DSP driven?
I am still learning myself... there is so much more knowledge and experience from other members here. This is just the most simple way I could "get you started".
 
Now, I see where I made so many noob mistakes. Luckily, it only cost me two tweeters ($45). I might give it one more shot on Tuesday. If I have the crossovers in my HU and parametric EQ, would I really benefit with a DSP? Not my daily. Just asking if I would be able to audibly tell a difference between HU driven or DSP driven?
Stand alone DSP typically give you WAY more control over your settings. I would have to say yes, you will hear a difference. I went from using Kenwoods "DSP" in their X998 headunit to a Rockford Fosgate 3Sixty.3... it is night and day different for the better. When everyone says it's a bad idea to give up they mean it... once you get the hang of it the rewards in sound are worth it.
 
Stand alone DSP typically give you WAY more control over your settings. I would have to say yes, you will hear a difference. I went from using Kenwoods "DSP" in their X998 headunit to a Rockford Fosgate 3Sixty.3... it is night and day different for the better. When everyone says it's a bad idea to give up they mean it... once you get the hang of it the rewards in sound are worth it.

I'm just a, "dial it in once and leave it alone" type of guy. I haven't touched the system in my Dodge standard cab in a year and a half. Two ABVFL8D4's in a 2005 standard cab Dodge. Custom made ported box, firing up, on a DDM80b (I think). 900 watts @1 ohm. They tear it up, flexin!
 
Both two ohm amps. AB's in doors and Pioneer's in rear deck. I thought the AB midbass with 200 watts would be a lot louder and stronger. Barelyvaudible at this point.
[/QUOTE
Now, I see where I made so many noob mistakes. Luckily, it only cost me two tweeters ($45). I might give it one more shot on Tuesday. If I have the crossovers in my HU and parametric EQ, would I really benefit with a DSP? Not my daily. Just asking if I would be able to audibly tell a difference between HU driven or DSP driven?
its way more precise. with a head unit you only get cetain numbers. in a DSP you can put in any number. The head unit doesnt have parametric its graphical. DSP is parametric, you can literally choose how much EQ eq cut or boost affects the freqeuency around it. You cant do that with the head unit. Makes a difference between oh this sounds okay to holy **** this is amazing!
 
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