Looking for Amp/DSP guidance

JLeal

CarAudio.com Newbie
I have a 2020 Subaru Ascent Premium with the standard radio. I've already replaced the front door speakers/dash tweeters with Kicker KSS269 KS Series 6"x9" 2-way components and the rear doors with Kicker 51KSC6504 KS Series 6-1/2" 2-ways, both 100W RMS @ 4ohm. I currently have an amp installed running a subwoofer but I plan to replace it with a 5 channel amp in order to run everything. My goal at a minimum is to correct the bass roll off and get some more volume. If possible sum the rear channels with the front so I can get a full range signal to the rear doors. This is where things are getting a little more complicated for me. I'm looking for advice as which type of setup I should go with, something like an AudioControl LC5iPro to amp, DSP to amp, or a DSP integrated amp. Either way it seems like all options will be roughly $1K which is about where my budget is at. The AudioControl D-5.1300 is an all in one option that would suit my purpose but the reviews on it seem mixed. I've also looked at the Hertz S8 DSP but haven't been able to find many reviews on it. The Kicker LX1200.5 also looks like an option that has some DSP functions but isn't a full on DSP amp. There's so many options out there and I'm not sure which brands are reputable so I'm also open to recommendations other than what I have listed.
T.I.A
 
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I have a 2020 Subaru Ascent Premium with the standard radio. I've already replaced the front door speakers/dash tweeters with Kicker KSS269 KS Series 6"x9" 2-way components and the rear doors with Kicker 51KSC6504 KS Series 6-1/2" 2-ways, both 100W RMS @ 4ohm. I currently have an amp installed running a subwoofer but I plan to replace it with a 5 channel amp in order to run everything. My goal at a minimum is to correct the bass roll off and get some more volume. If possible sum the rear channels with the front so I can get a full range signal to the rear doors. This is where things are getting a little more complicated for me. I'm looking for advice as which type of setup I should go with, something like an AudioControl LC5iPro to amp, DSP to amp, or a DSP integrated amp. Either way it seems like all options will be roughly $1K which is about where my budget is at. The AudioControl D-5.1300 is an all in one option that would suit my purpose but the reviews on it seem mixed. I've also looked at the Hertz S8 DSP but haven't been able to find many reviews on it. The Kicker LX1200.5 also looks like an option that has some DSP functions but isn't a full on DSP amp. There's so many options out there and I'm not sure which brands are reputable so I'm also open to recommendations other than what I have listed.
T.I.A
It sounds like you're on the right track with your upgrades and have a clear idea of your goals for your audio system. Here’s a breakdown of your options, along with the pros and cons of each setup you mentioned:

### 1. **AudioControl LC5iPro**
- **Pros:**
- This is a high-quality line output converter with DSP capabilities that can help correct bass roll-off and sum channels effectively.
- It allows for a lot of tuning options, which can enhance the sound quality and help you achieve the desired output.
- It’s well-regarded in the car audio community for its build quality and performance.
- **Cons:**
- You will need a separate amplifier, which can increase the overall cost and complexity of your system.
- Additional tuning may be required to get the best results.

### 2. **DSP Integrated Amplifier (e.g., AudioControl D-5.1300)**
- **Pros:**
- This type of unit combines amplification and DSP, simplifying the installation process.
- It can save space since you won't have to mount a separate DSP and amp.
- The integration allows for easier tuning since the DSP is directly connected to the amplifier.
- **Cons:**
- As you've noted, reviews are mixed. Some users have reported issues with reliability and sound quality, so it's essential to do your research and possibly listen to it before purchasing.
- If the DSP features are limited, you might not get all the customization options you want.

### 3. **Dedicated DSP (e.g., Hertz S8 DSP)**
- **Pros:**
- A dedicated DSP typically offers more tuning capabilities and advanced features compared to integrated options.
- Many dedicated DSPs provide a more robust signal processing, which can lead to better sound quality.
- **Cons:**
- You’ll need a separate amplifier to drive your speakers.
- The learning curve for tuning can be steeper if you’re unfamiliar with DSP setups.

### 4. **Kicker LX1200.5**
- **Pros:**
- This amp provides some built-in DSP functions, which is useful if you're looking for a more straightforward solution.
- It has ample power to drive your speakers and subwoofer effectively.
- **Cons:**
- While it offers some DSP features, it may not be as comprehensive as a dedicated DSP unit.
- You might still experience some limitations in tuning compared to a fully-featured DSP.

### Recommendations:
Given your budget of around $1K and the desire to sum channels, I would recommend considering the following options:
- **AudioControl LC5iPro paired with a quality 5-channel amplifier:** This gives you flexibility and good sound quality with extensive tuning options.
- **A reputable DSP integrated amplifier like the D-5.1300**, but proceed with caution and check for the latest reviews or user feedback to ensure it meets your needs.

### Additional Brands to Consider:
- **Helix**: Known for their high-quality DSPs and amps, providing excellent sound quality and tuning options.
- **Rockford Fosgate**: Their DSPs and amplifiers are also well-regarded and provide good value for money.
- **Mosconi**: They offer premium DSPs and amps that are highly rated in the audiophile community.

### Conclusion:
Ultimately, the best choice will depend on your comfort with tuning and installation complexity, as well as your specific sound preferences. I recommend visiting a local car audio shop or forum to get hands-on experience with some of these options if possible.

Please share your thoughts or if anyone else has experiences with these products, feel free to chime in!
 
The AudioControl units are very good.

The company went through a couple of sales/aquisitons and some buggy software/firmware glitches a couple of years ago that they dragged their feet on updating, like six months, which is 2 lifetimes on the internet.

The products are solid, I've used them all and would use them again, AT the right price - they tend to be costly given the lack of recent updates, etc.

Not sure what you're referring to when you say "summing" the front and rear, summing the input signal? Unless one differs from the other, there's no need for this, especially if you're going to go fully active or passive active with DSP.

Are you intending to use a subwoofer too?

What is your familiarity with tuning using DSP?

All-in-one DSP amps are decent enough, but not always versatile, application-dependent.

Consider something like this, simple enough and would take your setup to a new level!

Assuming you're incorporating a sub in the mix:

The budget king 5-ch is the Recoil RED1800.5 at $186.00

140x4 at 4 ohms and 1280 x 1at 1 ohm.


Throw in this DSP on sale now for a ridiculously low $237.00


That leaves you about $500.00 to spare, for a SUB if you don't already have one, or even a decent head unit upgrade, lots of options for or below $1000.00.
 
The AudioControl units are very good.

The company went through a couple of sales/aquisitons and some buggy software/firmware glitches a couple of years ago that they dragged their feet on updating, like six months, which is 2 lifetimes on the internet.

The products are solid, I've used them all and would use them again, AT the right price - they tend to be costly given the lack of recent updates, etc.

Not sure what you're referring to when you say "summing" the front and rear, summing the input signal? Unless one differs from the other, there's no need for this, especially if you're going to go fully active or passive active with DSP.

Are you intending to use a subwoofer too?

What is your familiarity with tuning using DSP?

All-in-one DSP amps are decent enough, but not always versatile, application-dependent.

Consider something like this, simple enough and would take your setup to a new level!

Assuming you're incorporating a sub in the mix:

The budget king 5-ch is the Recoil RED1800.5 at $186.00

140x4 at 4 ohms and 1280 x 1at 1 ohm.


Throw in this DSP on sale now for a ridiculously low $237.00


That leaves you about $500.00 to spare, for a SUB if you don't already have one, or even a decent head unit upgrade, lots of options for or below $1000.00.
Thank you for all the info. An upgraded head unit would make things quite a bit easier but unfortunately isn't an option for me because of all the vehicle systems tied into the factory unit. The channel summing is something I learned about while looking into the line out converters like the LC5iPro because I'm keeping the factory head unit. If you don't have a full range signal to a channel, the rear channels in my case, it combines the front and rear signals to get a full range signal. I do intend to run a subwoofer also. I have no experience with a DSP so that's gonna be a bit of a learning curve for me and one of the reasons I was thinking of just going with an LOC that can correct any bass roll off. Again, thanks for all of the info.
 
Okay, as I thought, lack of a full bandwidth signal, which would be applicable.

Is the OEM HU the 6.5" or the 8"?

Starlink telematics system?
 
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This is a great unit to set up with, using a single set of L/R speaker outputs from the head unit.


It has an autotune feature, is a respected product, and it takes high-level inputs, so no LOC is needed.

If the front speaker leads are the only full-range, then you only use those speaker leads to feed the DSP as it will let you share that signal to all 6 channels out.
Then you can run the DSP in 5 channel mode, setting the HP filter for the components at 70-80hz, and the subsonic filter (HP - ported sub) and the LPF accordingly,

Then it's just a matter of choosing the amp that works for you.

If you're running the Starlink telematics system, you may need to use a set of LGD's inline to the DSP.
 
M
This is a great unit to set up with, using a single set of L/R speaker outputs from the head unit.


It has an autotune feature, is a respected product, and it takes high-level inputs, so no LOC is needed.

If the front speaker leads are the only full-range, then you only use those speaker leads to feed the DSP as it will let you share that signal to all 6 channels out.
Then you can run the DSP in 5 channel mode, setting the HP filter for the components at 70-80hz, and the subsonic filter (HP - ported sub) and the LPF accordingly,

Then it's just a matter of choosing the amp that works for you.

If you're running the Starlink telematics system, you may need to use a set of LGD's inline to the DSP.
Yes I'm running the Starlink telematics. I've already purchased a jumper harness from Autoharnesshouse.com in order to grab the front signal and install LGD's after the telematics module as shown in this schematic from their site.

Screenshot_20260219_103839_Chrome.jpg
 
M

Yes I'm running the Starlink telematics. I've already purchased a jumper harness from Autoharnesshouse.com in order to grab the front signal and install LGD's after the telematics module as shown in this schematic from their site.

View attachment 70695
Given that the DSP unit is going to do virtually anything and more than the LCix will do, other than Accubass, which, with proper DSP tuning EQ, DSP will do it as well or better, ergo the better choice.

As for amplification, that depends on the budget and overall goal.

That recoil is widely acclaimed as the budget king, but again, the sub you intended to use factors in.

Personally, a good high-ish efficient sub with an RMS rating of 400 watts opens up other SQ type, really clean and dynamic amplification, such as this Crescendo 6-cjh at $419.00


ch 1-4 4x100 @4 ohms, channels 5-6350x2 at 2 or 700x1 bridged to a decn 4 ohm sub (single 4 ohm coil or any dual 2 ohm coil unit).

Same power, less money 5-ch:


Or this monster of an 8-channel that can be configured as a 4,5,6,7 or 8 channel amp, crazy power!


Lots of options under your price cap.
 
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JLeal

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