get loud for cheap / ghetto blaster burb

[big scott]

wow thats a good point. so a sub with stiff suspension will NEED more power to get it moving. never thought of that, but makes cents.

hell my hdc3 15" is still stiff as helll .

man i hope it all works out for you, and ill be keeping an eye out on this build. really makes me want to do a wall... but ill be happy with a big *** box for 4 15" lol..

 

[brian84corvette 10+ year member]

did a few more pieces of the puzzle today



this one fought me so bad - probly in and out 25 times shave a little here and there each time - then re fit - mark and take some more off











super rough idea on port placment and sealed box placment - i like the port being where the small folding seat back was - as that can still be used as a seat - and the bottom of the seat is still there - so theoreticly it could be the hair trick seat - or tap out seat lol

 

[ThatChevyGuy 5,000+ posts]

i would love to have a pair of those subs in 7-8 cubes on 1200w class ab power!

 

[brian84corvette 10+ year member]

woop ! this build is taking forever !!

 

[brian84corvette 10+ year member]

everything is double thick now - tripple in a few areas. pretty solid

 

[mlstrass 5,000+ posts]

Not going to be fun doing front/rear pieces....

Will be interesting to see how it works out with port on pass side. I've never seen one done that way, but so no reason why it won't work for a demo set up.

 

[brian84corvette 10+ year member]

arg ! the constant cutting and shaping of those angles !!!









my hands are covered with locktite pl adhesive - and are all black.

it wont come off

unless i use sand paper //content.invisioncic.com/y282845/emoticons/frown.gif.a3531fa0534503350665a1e957861287.gif

 

[brian84corvette 10+ year member]

 

[brian84corvette 10+ year member]

 

[brian84corvette 10+ year member]

2x8 bracing to keep baffle wall from flexing.





now i need to tripple up the baffle wall - and then add another layer to the loading wall - and then seal up the back by the rear doors

and then figure out how to tune the port ( how wide the port needs to be for tuning )

or just make a few diffrent sized ones that can quickly screw on and swap out for when testing hz begins

 

[mrpep]

you are crazy ! love it!!

 

[hispls 5,000+ posts]

I would really like to see more than 2 layers on those long sides. Flexing box = a ton of lost output.

 

[brian84corvette 10+ year member]

I would really like to see more than 2 layers on those long sides. Flexing box = a ton of lost output.

sides of what ? the truck - or the sides of the box facing fowards and rear ?

the plan for fowards and rear is to add 2 layers of plywood - and then come on from the other side with 2x4 bracing ( notched out for seat back as well ) all along the baffle wall and all along the rear by where the back doors are.

the sidewalls of the truck - the wood is actually screwed to the truck - so if flex is going to happen there - the entire truck will be flexing not just wood... and i was pretty heavy on the locktite pl adhesive when applying pannels - but i do plan to get some custom bracing made to go across and keep things tight.

i would like this build to play 150s minimum and have a good range of hz in 150 - so thank you for the tip !

 

[hispls 5,000+ posts]

sides of what ? the truck - or the sides of the box facing fowards and rear ?the plan for fowards and rear is to add 2 layers of plywood - and then come on from the other side with 2x4 bracing ( notched out for seat back as well ) all along the baffle wall and all along the rear by where the back doors are.

the sidewalls of the truck - the wood is actually screwed to the truck - so if flex is going to happen there - the entire truck will be flexing not just wood... and i was pretty heavy on the locktite pl adhesive when applying pannels - but i do plan to get some custom bracing made to go across and keep things tight.

i would like this build to play 150s minimum and have a good range of hz in 150 - so thank you for the tip !

I'd be trying to do ANY SIDE wider than a couple feet with 3 layers of 3/4 ply plus some bracing where possible. From where you're sitting, it looks like space isn't really an issue, and the cost of adding a few more sheets of 3/4 is really negligible. It'll be a whole lot easier to do it now than to find walls flexing later and try to Band-Aid with bracing. I think that the baffle will be OK with that window-pane of 2X8 but 2 layers plus some really thin sheet metal is pretty dicey with such large walls.

I will never forget building a box with 2 layers of 3/4 MDF in 1996 for 6 12" JBL subs (pretty entry level at the time). On about 800W total the 1.5" MDF was flapping around visibly People, I think, grossly underestimate how much pressure a box with this much cone area will build up even without a lot of power.

 

[brian84corvette 10+ year member]

cutting the last of the 3 layers baffle - arm death my jig saw is a total pos



checking fitment



all 3 baffles screwed and glued together to the support structure - all nice and square / plum