Camry kicks and tweeter waveguide

Ah I see. So when it comes to doing setups like 10s in doors, how do you make a sturdy baffle for it? And maintain airseal? That's my whole issue, because I think with an mdf ring it'd be easy for me to just fiberglass a baffle in my door panel for an 8" (I'm planning on doing 8s in the doors, depending on what I can find and afford, or just go with ssa evil 6.5s which would make the process easier) but I'm not sure how I would make the sub fire into the actual door metal, because thatd require more tedious work which I don't trust myself to pull off.
never use MDF for anything ever again. Sanded 13 layer pine ply baffle and skeleton outline then coated with paint or some water proofing solution then wrap with fleece fiberglass resin and add layers of mat then more fiberglass then bondo then sand.

requires cutting door panels and making a whole enclosure for the 10. If you try to use the whole door alone, you'll run into a lot of nasty unsolvable rattles that deadener will not prevent depending how much power you throw on the 10s.

 
I'd rather have proper output on the midbass region and eq down rather than having to bump up the EQ. It sounds more natural to me. I tried bumping it up back then, it went loud but not the same clarity and loudness as a natural high output midbass should. Literally bumping a smaller driver up EQ wise will cause wierd peaks here and there but makes some decent output however the bigger driver without any EQ can literally push your pants flying and make you lose breath. The amount of midbass i prefer is ungodly compared to normal SQ/SPL people's preferences. Sad to say i'm a sound masochist I want everything to feel like its destroying my internal organs.

Just imagine a rave and you are right next to the PA speakers playing snares and kick drums, thats what i want replicated in my car but with a lot better and smoother response and proper imaging/sound stage. I'd literally try to do 12s if i had the room.
I fail to see the difference. If your pushing a small driver to 50hz, even with proper T/a, Yea its gonna suffer. Youll have distortion up the ***. 6.5s arent even really designed to go lower than 80 save a few and definitely not lower than 80 with any real spl. Bumping at 50-65z wont cause weird peaks. The wavelengths are too long, you arent going to get any crazy harmonics at 100,150,200hz because of it. So yes, a bigger driver is better for midbass because it does it with less excursion and lower power needs thus much lower distortion. Go get a xbl motor midbass, you'd be astounded by the cleanness of the midbass. HOWEVER, due to arrays and how they work. You CAN have a 6.5 in the doors and midbass anywhere else in the car and with proper T/a and/or FIR filtering, youll have astounding LOUD clean and Natural midbass all due to interaural time difference and how we perceive it //content.invisioncic.com/y282845/emoticons/smile.gif.1ebc41e1811405b213edfc4622c41e27.gif

None of that matters ina spl rig tho. Biggest drivers and a ton of power and you're gold.

 
idk man SQ guy's version of loud aint nothing close to what i think is loud. Even with the SQ guys with an LMS ultra 18 in an IB setup. My midbass overpowers theirs by miles and they were bragging about how good their high end CDT dedicated midbass are. Needless to say he didnt brag after hearing mines. Hopefully i get to do my doors by may 7th theres a meca SQ event thats pretty big. Time to win trophies in both arenas lmfao.

 
idk man SQ guy's version of loud aint nothing close to what i think is loud. Even with the SQ guys with an LMS ultra 18 in an IB setup. My midbass overpowers theirs by miles and they were bragging about how good their high end CDT dedicated midbass are. Needless to say he didnt brag after hearing mines.
I know a guy doing a 6th on 4 jbl mk2. Two audiofrog gb10s in pods in the doors as dedicated midbasses and some other crap for midranges. His system isnt done yet but i have a feeling its gonna be friggin amazing.

I get what your argueing but were talking totally different world's.

At some point when the camry isnt a daily anymore. Ill probably go full spl on it. I think the whole idea of sql is a bit funny because i have around 200rms on each of my drivers and its louder than most people like to even be in and it still has a center stage and proper phasing and FR. There is a threshold IMO where SQ stops being about perfect tonality and starts being just loud enough to keep up with the substage without having crazy piercing highs

Sent from my SGH-M919 using Tapatalk

 
never use MDF for anything ever again. Sanded 13 layer pine ply baffle and skeleton outline then coated or some water proofing solution with paint then wrap with fleece fiberglass resin and add layers of mat then more fiberglass then bondo then sand.
requires cutting.
Jeff, I got a question for you. Why do you use fleece? IMO, Fleece is a huge waste of resin. It absorbs resin like a sponge and that isnt where you get the strength of "fiberglass" from. you get it from heat polymerization of the resin and fiberglass mat when it becomes a polymerized glass composite. I find it easier and much cheaper to find the most stretchy material you can(lots at walmart) and that that. Hell ive seen people make A-pillars outta resin/mat/ pantyhose. All you need is a basic shape for the initial lay up. The lighter and stretchy it is, the better. Imho

 
Jeff, I got a question for you. Why do you use fleece? IMO, Fleece is a huge waste of resin. It absorbs resin like a sponge and that isnt where you get the strength of "fiberglass" from. you get it from heat polymerization of the resin and fiberglass mat when it becomes a polymerized glass composite. I find it easier and much cheaper to find the most stretchy material you can(lots at walmart) and that that. Hell ive seen people make A-pillars outta resin/mat/ pantyhose. All you need is a basic shape for the initial lay up. The lighter and stretchy it is, the better. Imho
fleece is cheaper. bigger wider and yes it does add a good bit of strength to start with compared to lighter materials. You save a good bit on fiber glass mat to be honest. Plus I aint gonna buy panty hose in bulk FK that sh*t.

 
I have them but i'm not gonna mount them until i fully sealed off and paint the wall and fiberglass the whole beauty panel.. Here's a sneak peak of whats done so far.
17577645_1502710359771503_1283753626_n.jpg
How much port is that? Looks rather skinny? I plan on turning my cpillar flat wall into a bpillar 6th order but my back chamber will be 30cubes tuned to 25hz and my front will be as many cubes possible tuned to 50hz... what made you do only 20cubed ported on your rear chamber? Those woofers like 5cubes each?

 
actually it sort of strangled. needs more airspace IMO . 20 cubes net rear chamber 40 cubes net front chamber its a 6th order taking up the whole minivan. A bigger ratio could have been better to be honest but I think i got enough power to make it work. 4 team ascendant 18s on 30k B pillar 6th order. A bit on a small side however I should be seeing close to the sub's RMS rating clamped so it doesn't have to be giant however its hard to squeeze anymore out of it. good thing is that i can use my front chamber to store snowboards, fishing rods, groceries or 4 crazy dudes along with having my rear hatch cargo area as well for stuff. I also have a rear AC unit that i will vent straight to the amps to keep them ice cold.

I'd rather have proper output on the midbass region and eq down rather than having to bump up the EQ. It sounds more natural to me. I tried bumping it up back then, it went loud but not the same clarity and loudness as a natural high output midbass should. Literally bumping a smaller driver up EQ wise will cause wierd peaks here and there but makes some decent output however the bigger driver without any EQ can literally push your pants flying and make you lose breath. The amount of midbass i prefer is ungodly compared to normal SQ/SPL people's preferences. Sad to say i'm a sound masochist I want everything to feel like its destroying my internal organs.

Just imagine a rave and you are right next to the PA speakers playing snares and kick drums, thats what i want replicated in my car but with a lot better and smoother response and proper imaging/sound stage. I'd literally try to do 12s if i had the room.
I agree on this tons. I have cheap Dayton 6.5s and I float between low eq and no slope to flat and 160hz/6db slope. No slope with eq dropping off at 120hz and picking back up at 50hz for any form of midbass response. 120/6 gives me kicks but no true bass. That's part of the reason I want to go with bigger drivers.

 
All these years Ive been enjoyed car audio, I have never tried glassing.I would like to try some A-Pillars one day and some door Pods
Hit me up Audiobaun I can help you esp if it's for your truck I have done some with excellent results and also made additions to door panels to add two pairs of anarchy mids and I saved lots of pics. It's not as tough as you think .

Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

 
Basically. Every driver(speaker of any kind) has a certain set of parameters called T/S specs. These are made up of numbers based on the type of motor, the power of the motor, the total displacement of the cone, and lots of the other things. There are lots of drivers out there with all kinds of specs. Some are designed with hard suspensions so they can run Infinite baffle(think trunk or doors), Some are designed to go into small enclosures. For the most part. MIDBASS in kicks doesnt usually work because space makes bass. Imagine you take a 6.5 speaker and put it into a super small box, say like .2cuft and then do a freq sweep on it. Itll probably go down to 500hz and then drop DRASTICALLY. now if you were to keep adding space and keep doing frequency sweeps. You'd see your low end get more and more output. .3cuft. prob go down to 400hz, .5 cuft, go down to 200hz. And so on and so forth.
There is basically no space in a kick unless heavy modification has been done and it has been vented to the outside and then its considered Infinite baffle(like cutting big holes through your cars metal). If a kickpanel has been vented to the outside then you can get output but other problems tend to arise like resonances of the metal and what have you. The Big drivers you usually see in a kick arent actually playing low frequencies, they are simply big midranges. A bigger driver has a lower beaming but gets louder on the same power. For instance if you put 100 watts on a 4in speaker and itll be loud. Put 100 watts on a 6.5 and itll be really loud. So its not always about how big your enclosure is if you dont need your speaker to play low. In fact a good example is tweeters. Tweeters need such a small enclosure(tiny tiny tiny) that their enclosure is actually built into the tweeter itself.

You do tend to get a lower qtc in a sealed box(this is good) but it takes more power to get louder so there is a trade off.

As for doing speakers in doors. The spl and the Sq guys usually do it completely different. The spl guys for the most part reinforce their door card(the part you take off) and then deaden it to the nines and then fiberglass the FRONT of the enclosure onto them. Then they put the door card back on and their drivers fire directly into the actual door.
Astrobuild5-12-09005.jpg


1382995_10200936513554285_838628869_n_zps17156ae2.jpg
Like that. This is a great and cheap way to get alot of drivers on a door and get loud easily. however, These drivers are nowhere near optimized or properly dampened but they do get loud and will keep up with soundstages.

The sq guys either do one of two things. They mount their drivers directly to the door and then seal/deaden the door, then they modify their door cards to look good around the speaker mounted to the actual door. like so.
20140521_205045_zpswecdokqp.jpg


OR they do some crazy in door sealed enclosure like i plan too. like so. Not mine btw VVV
InnerSideDESealpassenger.jpg
Thank you for explaining, I checked out the Mercedes by the way. The only other thing that's holding me back from doing this is that it's spring and I have no garage so I'm stuck under a porch roof in rain everyday.

The goal is to do a true sq front stage. It will be ran active off of the c-dsp and 80prs. I bought that amp off of trumpet this morning too so I'll finally be able to ditch these passive crossovers and pickup new midranges and tweeters. So im going to look into doing a sealed enclosure inside the door panel, more. I believe I have the room in there without doing too much modification.

 
I have them but i'm not gonna mount them until i fully sealed off and paint the wall and fiberglass the whole beauty panel.. Here's a sneak peak of whats done so far.
17577645_1502710359771503_1283753626_n.jpg
Nice ! You been busy !

Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

 
How much port is that? Looks rather skinny? I plan on turning my cpillar flat wall into a bpillar 6th order but my back chamber will be 30cubes tuned to 25hz and my front will be as many cubes possible tuned to 50hz... what made you do only 20cubed ported on your rear chamber? Those woofers like 5cubes each?
Mainly because gauged clamped power will be around rated rms but daily musical will exceed it depending on frequency. The woofers are fine with 5 to 6.5 cubes on AA's recommendations. thats where i'm tuned at as well. IDK if you have that much space man. We literally squeezed every inch out of my minivan. My minivan has A LOT more cubic airspace space than a tahoe. you wont have 60 cubes for your front chamber of your tahoe lol. Not without giving up structural rigidity.

front chamber is 1092 sq feet of port. rear is very very low or else we cant get the proper tuning. Kinda worried about noise but hunter said its fine.

 
Activity
No one is currently typing a reply...
Old Thread: Please note, there have been no replies in this thread for over 3 years!
Content in this thread may no longer be relevant.
Perhaps it would be better to start a new thread instead.

Similar threads

If your bypassing the infotainment stuff in the original HU setup, then the LCi7PRO should handle the rest. If you want to retain the handsfree...
1
175
If you want 5 channels of amplification you just need 5 channels of amplification. You can do this with 5 amps or 1, depends on budget and space...
1
525
Disconnect the RCA's or hi-level input to the JBl amp. turn the system on, If the noise continues, it's a ground or noise issue with the amp.If it...
1
428
I am going to have to pull it out of the dash and have a look again to see if the wires are correct. I sent over this with a pro shop many times...
3
2K

About this thread

The Camry

Hey, I Try.
Thread starter
The Camry
Joined
Location
Western Oregon
Start date
Participants
Who Replied
Replies
95
Views
13,002
Last reply date
Last reply from
The Camry
Screenshot_20240416-091446.png

1aespinoza

    Apr 17, 2024
  • 0
  • 0
mirimar bch.jpg

HandsomeSteve

    Apr 16, 2024
  • 0
  • 0

Latest topics

Top