Big 3 Failure/massive voltage drop/tips?

thats what i did with my amps ground. i ran a bolt throw floor and have a ground from bolt to frame.
and i already said you have alt. issues . your alt cannot supply enough voltage. alts make power batterys hold that power. so adding another battery is not going to do you any good. but i would say get rid of that cap and put a good amg battery in the back. so when you get a good alt. you will be set.
Id have to argue that point to some extent. I have around 1000rms in highs and running my AQ3500 at .25 ohm so im getting around 500+ amps of draw. I only have 220 amps of alt and I drop from 13.9 to 13.2 at full tilt at idle. I have a big bank of batteries (7 group 31s 102ah each) that keeps my voltage up

 
Not ignoring anything. Iv been replied to by numerous people with numerous suggestions, I haven't had time to try them all. And as my last post stated, haven't been able to get metered voltage under full load conditions yet. So, chill. Ruling things out as I go


Your alternator should be a case 130d which even know its rated at 110 amps when warm they usually test around 70 amps. At idle warm they usually only have an output of 25-40 amps which is terrible. I would suggest getting a add244 case alt. They come factory on newer GM full size vehicles and up to 160 amps. It will be a direct bolt on and all it will require is sometimes a slightly longer serpentine belt. Its a larger case alternator that will put out 2-3 time more than yours at idle and probably twice as much wide open. I would hit up the local junk yards and get you one. I have paid $20-$30 for everyone I have bought and its a huge upgrade over the small case alt you have and would probably solve your voltage drop.

But I would also check to voltage like I was explaining earlier

 
Your alternator should be a case 130d which even know its rated at 110 amps when warm they usually test around 70 amps. At idle warm they usually only have an output of 25-40 amps which is terrible. I would suggest getting a add244 case alt. They come factory on newer GM full size vehicles and up to 160 amps. It will be a direct bolt on and all it will require is sometimes a slightly longer serpentine belt. Its a larger case alternator that will put out 2-3 time more than yours at idle and probably twice as much wide open. I would hit up the local junk yards and get you one. I have paid $20-$30 for everyone I have bought and its a huge upgrade over the small case alt you have and would probably solve your voltage drop.
But I would also check to voltage like I was explaining earlier
Thats exactly what I did in my truck, went from cs130 to ad244 and holy crap is it night and day difference. I just swapped it at autozone.

 
Id have to argue that point to some extent. I have around 1000rms in highs and running my AQ3500 at .25 ohm so im getting around 500+ amps of draw. I only have 220 amps of alt and I drop from 13.9 to 13.2 at full tilt at idle. I have a big bank of batteries (7 group 31s 102ah each) that keeps my voltage up
There is no arguing, it's basic electrical theory. Batteries will only supply current when the system voltage drops below their resting voltage so no matter what if he doesn't upgrade his alternator he will have voltage drop. They're like a safety net, great to have but not to rely on. Even in your system, every time your voltage dips and has to rely on the batteries you're putting a much larger strain on your alternator. This strain will cause it to fail prematurely. Ideally you would have as close to 0.0V drop as possible. If the OP ads more batteries on top of his already strained electrical system he's likely to fry his alternator and end up stranded somewhere...

 
So how do you identify what kind of alternator is on a truck? Only marking i see on mine is Delphi. Also, how do you confirm it will fit my vehicle? I thought parts are only interchangeable between the years the vehicle shared parts, which in my case would be Chevy GMC full size vehicles from 88-98.

Thanks for the advice.

 
you need to search for a high output alt for your truck.

if you dont have a lot of money look at the db electric alts. i have a 200amp alt. and it works great. im also running another 100amp alt.

total i have is 300amps.

going to chance them out for 3 - 240amps soon.

 
Id have to argue that point to some extent. I have around 1000rms in highs and running my AQ3500 at .25 ohm so im getting around 500+ amps of draw. I only have 220 amps of alt and I drop from 13.9 to 13.2 at full tilt at idle. I have a big bank of batteries (7 group 31s 102ah each) that keeps my voltage up
that just means your straining your alt...

adding battery ant going to GIVE YOU POWER ( or more power ) it only stores it .

 
So how do you identify what kind of alternator is on a truck? Only marking i see on mine is Delphi. Also, how do you confirm it will fit my vehicle? I thought parts are only interchangeable between the years the vehicle shared parts, which in my case would be Chevy GMC full size vehicles from 88-98.Thanks for the advice.
Here is my write up for 88-95 TBI

Cs130 alt to ad244 swap tbi

 
you need to search for a high output alt for your truck.
if you dont have a lot of money look at the db electric alts. i have a 200amp alt. and it works great. im also running another 100amp alt.

total i have is 300amps.

going to chance them out for 3 - 240amps soon.
I mean, im definitely not broke, but dont want to drop the $600 they want for nice ones for my rig. I dunno, i have some.other issues that I may want to tackle first. Not sure If the alternator is.what I want to do first.

 
I mean, im definitely not broke, but dont want to drop the $600 they want for nice ones for my rig. I dunno, i have some.other issues that I may want to tackle first. Not sure If the alternator is.what I want to do first.
Takes power to make power.

 
Well maybe you guys can answer this: since adding my channel and upgrading my factory speakers, my woofer barely gets it at all. Is this from lack of power or something else? Im confused on wether the amps power supplys are ouputing their rated power regardless and just making everything else suffer, or if they are being underpowered by lack of amperage? Just dont know if its my amp or its settings or if I need a new alternator to get back what I had prior to adding my 4 channel. Definitely dont want to drop $600 on an alternator if something else cheaper can be fixed. Thats my dilemma.

 
I mean, im definitely not broke, but dont want to drop the $600 they want for nice ones for my rig. I dunno, i have some.other issues that I may want to tackle first. Not sure If the alternator is.what I want to do first.
do the cheap fix with the alternator swap that was recommended. There's a big difference from an alt that does legit power vs a horribly anemic one.

 
There is no arguing, it's basic electrical theory. Batteries will only supply current when the system voltage drops below their resting voltage so no matter what if he doesn't upgrade his alternator he will have voltage drop. They're like a safety net, great to have but not to rely on. Even in your system, every time your voltage dips and has to rely on the batteries you're putting a much larger strain on your alternator. This strain will cause it to fail prematurely. Ideally you would have as close to 0.0V drop as possible. If the OP ads more batteries on top of his already strained electrical system he's likely to fry his alternator and end up stranded somewhere...

That's why I recommended the ad244 alt swap too. But its wrong to say adding a battery or batteries wont help. He is dropping well below 12.7 volts if he added another battery and it did keep him in the high 12s he would be way better off

 
that just means your straining your alt...
adding battery ant going to GIVE YOU POWER ( or more power ) it only stores it .
Adding a battery will give you more power. Like you said it stores energy. Its not like a cap where it releases the majority of its stored power instantly. Adding batteries will always help to some extent

 
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