Big 3 Failure/massive voltage drop/tips?

[FML 10+ year member]

you mounting the ground to the back of the alt. is great. keep it there.
like i said doing the big 3 is not going to stop your voltage drop. you need a h/o alt.

Well ****, i guess ///NoLoud4me //content.invisioncic.com/y282845/emoticons/frown.gif.a3531fa0534503350665a1e957861287.gif haha

 

[marcos65]

Get rid of the cap and add an extra battery at least

 

[FML 10+ year member]

Get rid of the cap and add an extra battery at least

Yeah thats an option. Just seems excessive, odd that id need more batteries or alternator for around 1500w RMS...

 

[los33 10+ year member]

Yeah thats an option. Just seems excessive, odd that id need more batteries or alternator for around 1500w RMS...

You dont.. You have enough power for that system unless you have an electrical system issue that has been draining power since before the big 3.

It could just be a amp giving or the wire you bought is bad or you put the lugs/terminals bad/wrong

 

[FML 10+ year member]

You dont.. You have enough power for that system unless you have an electrical system issue that has been draining power since before the big 3.
It could just be a amp giving or the wire you bought is bad or you put the lugs/terminals bad/wrong

Wire is brand New OFC copper, definitely not bad wire. And the fact that the issues were the same prior to the latest cable install, pretty apparent something else is the culprit. I just don't know what else it could be.

 

[gckless 5,000+ posts]

So you have a small alternator in a large truck, which means less spare current, with an average at best battery (which battery btw?), running over 2000W, and you guys are all really surprised that voltage drop is this bad?

Big 3 isn't going to do anything here, because you're not pulling barely anything from the alt. You weren't over the capacity of the last wiring, why would more capacity help here? If anything, it's a bigger pipe for your amps to draw current from, so you would have MORE voltage drop.

Add another battery, see what happens. They're not really that expensive.

 

[los33 10+ year member]

So you have a small alternator in a large truck, which means less spare current, with an average at best battery (which battery btw?), running over 2000W, and you guys are all really surprised that voltage drop is this bad?
Big 3 isn't going to do anything here, because you're not pulling barely anything from the alt. You weren't over the capacity of the last wiring, why would more capacity help here? If anything, it's a bigger pipe for your amps to draw current from, so you would have MORE voltage drop.

Add another battery, see what happens. They're not really that expensive.

You quoted my power not ops.

As for my own.. Try daily driving with all 4 alts running on the quad bracket when i put my larger belt on.

My truck runs like a bus without a engine tune to pick up my performance upgrades. But if i leave "my" performance mode on with the 4 alts, the my truck engine would tear its self apart.

 

[gckless 5,000+ posts]

You quoted my power not ops.

Here's the OP:

After completing my install, I have ZERO improvement. Normally, first thing in the morning (prior to big 3), my voltage at my amps would be 14.6. Same now. But, I get massive voltage drops into the upper 10s to 11s, and my lights still go bonkers in and outside of the truck.  

I realize im running not only 1, but 2 pretty power hungry amplifiers(RF T10001BD bass amp AND a JL 450/4 for components) but still. Im also still keeping my capacitor in line for the bass amp.

 

EDIT. ALSO, I BELIEVE STOCK ALTERNATOR IS 110 AMPS. BATTERY IS FAIRLY NEW, 810 CCA

Pretty sure I got that right, what I was referencing in my last post. Didn't even know what you had.

 

[los33 10+ year member]

Here's the OP:

Stand corrected..

 

[FML 10+ year member]

Stand corrected..

So you have a small alternator in a large truck, which means less spare current, with an average at best battery (which battery btw?), running over 2000W, and you guys are all really surprised that voltage drop is this bad?
Big 3 isn't going to do anything here, because you're not pulling barely anything from the alt. You weren't over the capacity of the last wiring, why would more capacity help here? If anything, it's a bigger pipe for your amps to draw current from, so you would have MORE voltage drop.

Add another battery, see what happens. They're not really that expensive.

So guys, I have an additional question. Im Thinking ill re do all my amps grounds. Only option I have currently is to bolt my terminals to the floor pan. This is just thin gauge sheet metal thats been die grinded down. Heres my idea:

I run the same nut and bolt combo, but underneath the truck, I run a secondary lead from the same nut, to the actual frame rail of my truck(quarter inch steel) . Only thing I could see as bad about that idea is adding another lead and connection could add more resistance, and more length to the ground location? Or is this a great idea?

Also, convince me why it'd be beneficial to ditch the capacitor. Or why you think if its doing more harm then good.

 

[Dub7sonoma Premium Member]

So guys, I have an additional question. Im Thinking ill re do all my amps grounds. Only option I have currently is to bolt my terminals to the floor pan. This is just thin gauge sheet metal thats been die grinded down. Heres my idea:
I run the same nut and bolt combo, but underneath the truck, I run a secondary lead from the same nut, to the actual frame rail of my truck(quarter inch steel) . Only thing I could see as bad about that idea is adding another lead and connection could add more resistance, and more length to the ground location? Or is this a great idea?

Also, convince me why it'd be beneficial to ditch the capacitor. Or why you think if its doing more harm then good.

try checking the voltage at the battery when the system is turned up or at the input wire of the capacitor, I bet its higher there than at your amp

also if you have the stinger voltage meter that is so common, the black case will pop off the front and there will be a knob in it that can be turned with a screw driver to adjust the voltage reading

 

[FML 10+ year member]

try checking the voltage at the battery when the system is turned up or at the input wire of the capacitor, I bet its higher there than at your amp
also if you have the stinger voltage meter that is so common, the black case will pop off the front and there will be a knob in it that can be turned with a screw driver to adjust the voltage reading

I did just check voltages at all points, theyre accurate. Im at work though, so couldn't really bass it at all, so ill check that later, thanks for the tip with the ,meter though. I didn't know that was.possible.

Any input on my idea of running a ground strap to the frame, via the screw coming through my floorboard off my ground block?

 

[gckless 5,000+ posts]

So guys, I have an additional question. Im Thinking ill re do all my amps grounds. Only option I have currently is to bolt my terminals to the floor pan. This is just thin gauge sheet metal thats been die grinded down. Heres my idea:
I run the same nut and bolt combo, but underneath the truck, I run a secondary lead from the same nut, to the actual frame rail of my truck(quarter inch steel) . Only thing I could see as bad about that idea is adding another lead and connection could add more resistance, and more length to the ground location? Or is this a great idea?

Also, convince me why it'd be beneficial to ditch the capacitor. Or why you think if its doing more harm then good.

So you ignored everything I said basically.

If your voltage is the same when drawing large current in the front and in the back, then grounding is not your issue. Small supply vs large draw is your issue.

 

[FML 10+ year member]

So you ignored everything I said basically.
If your voltage is the same when drawing large current in the front and in the back, then grounding is not your issue. Small supply vs large draw is your issue.

Not ignoring anything. Iv been replied to by numerous people with numerous suggestions, I haven't had time to try them all. And as my last post stated, haven't been able to get metered voltage under full load conditions yet. So, chill. Ruling things out as I go

 

[big scott]

So guys, I have an additional question. Im Thinking ill re do all my amps grounds. Only option I have currently is to bolt my terminals to the floor pan. This is just thin gauge sheet metal thats been die grinded down. Heres my idea:
I run the same nut and bolt combo, but underneath the truck, I run a secondary lead from the same nut, to the actual frame rail of my truck(quarter inch steel) . Only thing I could see as bad about that idea is adding another lead and connection could add more resistance, and more length to the ground location? Or is this a great idea?

Also, convince me why it'd be beneficial to ditch the capacitor. Or why you think if its doing more harm then good.

thats what i did with my amps ground. i ran a bolt throw floor and have a ground from bolt to frame.

and i already said you have alt. issues . your alt cannot supply enough voltage. alts make power batterys hold that power. so adding another battery is not going to do you any good. but i would say get rid of that cap and put a good amg battery in the back. so when you get a good alt. you will be set.