Go big or go BIG with DIRAC on DSP?

[audiobaun 5,000+ posts]

I have been fairly lucky that my hearing is still really pretty decent compared to most around me that I still usually tune by ear. Ive been doing it that way for years. Its never perfect or precise, but to my liking, and generally sound fine for me

 

[chipss36]

Wow, kinda baffled here.

Once you get the tune right.
You don’t need to mess with it. However,
A bad tune you will.
You may have different type tunes for different reasons, based on location, driver, passenger, different curves or tastes to tune to, and so on.

A dsp is only part of the whole.

An rta and a calibrated mic is what tells you is happening in the car. You may well already know all this.

The dsp tunes it, as best as possible.
Rinse and repeat, it’s not rocket science, but it’s not a cakewalk, acoustics is a complex subject, car acoustics an order of magnitude more so.

Some issues cannot be fixed, some issues definitely don’t get fixed with the EQ. Knowing the differences only comes with study , time, and understanding.

If you don’t have time to learn, pay someone to do this, ask them what dsp they recommend. And take that advice.

I tune fairly well, but if I know a guy is better than me, and many are, I will pay him to tune, and can A B the tunes and learn from the experience, and I have been In acoustics work over 40 years now. Still learning.

It will never be perfect, but a modern dsp will give you the best shot at getting the tune right.
If you constantly have to adjust things, something is wrong, and an rta will tell what is wrong, if you know how to interpret the data.

Yes a lessor complicated system is way more easy. But only for the short term, you will forever be adjusting things.

Again a good tune you will not, get the tune right one time, and it’s done. May take many tunes to get to that place, but once you do, it’s over. Doesn’t matter if it’s classical, metal, country, gothic whatever, it all works.


The more you spend on the dsp the more tools you have to work with.

Some now include all pass filters , to deal with phase issues, and built in rta’s.
Ways to correct the input signals. And other cool stuff. Even amps with dsp and rtas . Cool “ all in ones”
that make installs Very clean.

But even basic dsp, filters, eq, gain, phase, will do a lot more than just a basic eq will, and do so much more quietly.

For dsp to work properly, you really need an all active system. A passive crossover in the mix will only drag the whole system down. And really limit ability to tune.

Or I could be completely wrong here….and just made all this up? And am trolling you.

 

[Warden95]

OP I went from a Dayton 408 to a Helix and now have the mini DSP with Dirac and it’s been amazing. I actually liked the GUI on the Helix more but the tunes I’m getting from Dirac are outstanding. I think it would take me a year of trial and error to even get close. The best part is if I change gear, which I do often, I can knock out a pretty good tune in 20 minutes. I think one of the bigger drawbacks to the Mini 8x12 is it’s a pretty basic interface and doesn’t have the OEM integration some of the others have. There is a really good guide to get you off the ground. The guy I bought mine from previously had a remote tune on his helix by one of the best tuners in the industry and said his Dirac tune rivaled it. I’m sure in person tunes get you that last 10-15% and are better but I’m not competing so don’t care.

 

[highfigh]

I had an inexpensive Dayton DSP-408 for about a year and that famous ground loop finally crept up on me. Was never there and suddenly it was. Anyway, once I verified it's the DSP and not something wrong with my wiring I decided I didn't want to take a chance on another Dayton, figuring I'm just going to get another with ground loop built in from the factory. lol So, let's upgrade to a decent DPS, right?

So then here comes the hard question. I answered most of it. I know If I'm going to spend 300+ for a decent DSP I should probably just spend a couple hundred more for a REALLY good one with more features, options, etc. My problem is I **** at tuning and I just don't have the time. I mean, I think I spent 20+ hours with that DSP and even though I thought it sounded good I don't think I got everything out of it. Part of that could have been the beginners DSP I was using, but I'm wondering if I just don't have the knack for it.

Here's the question for anyone who has one or who has played with one. Should I get just a regular high end DSP or would spending $300 more for the DIRAC version of the C-DSP 8x12 make my life worth living again? lol I do enjoy the process, but I enjoy sitting down and listening so much more....plus the wife is tired of me spending time tinkering. I'm really leaning towards the DL version. Thoughts?

Changing the DSP isn't the solution- you need to correct the wiring. Vehicles change over time, look for the cause. Your battery could be on its way out and that acts as a filter, when it's in good condition. Did you upgrade the ground wire from the body to the battery when the system was installed? If not, that's the first thing I would address.

 

[Cee]

Dual JL Twk 88s here. $750 total for two "refurbished" units, they're brand new never used only returned. JL will fix or replace for $100 fee if dsp ever goes out.

With your system you only need one. Go spend $375 on a refurbished and call it a day. I would also redo your power and ground wiring and grab a decent AGM.

As for tuning just ear tune it already. In the future one can always grab a mic and use REW(FREE) software to properly tune. I never use "professionals" for car audio installs or tunes. If someone needs a "professional" tune because they can't do it themselves, they should find another hobby or be happy with a factory system.