Lol definitely dont want anything to be gross.+1 for the infinite baffle, only if it's done properly.
I'll let Jeff recommend a ~$200 driver seeing that I haven't really touched SQ Drivers for a few years. I've heard great things about the Image Dynamics lines http://www.imagedynamicsusa.net/idmax
With the proper ported enclosure, driver, power, and orientation in the trunk you can still get loud without sacrificing your whole trunk. Relatively loud, that is. Something with decent SQ and decent output is all you need, and will sound better than 99% of whats out there
Whether you need two amps is up to you. You can get something like a 900.5 5 channel and wire everything active or you can get one 4 channel and one mono. Or you could leave the doors stock.. which would be pretty gross lol
You try out different orientations. Your box should be about the size of a side table or smaller so you can rotate it. Generally speaking sub towards the trunk works the best but I'm not an expert on loading in cars.Lol definitely dont want anything to be gross.
How do I figure out what the proper orientation and ported enclosure is for the sub and my trunk? Just to reiterate I'm getting a 05 Nissan morano. I believe the trunk doesn't have a cover either.
Also I was asking based off @Jeffdachef reccomendations he provided a 4 channel amp I believe for the 2 tweeters and 2 mids. Which means he was planning to have me use my current amp and sub together right?
Lastly, just started doing some research. I know I'm getting ahead of myself with this question but with the dsp and time alignment. If I am setting it for the distance to the drivers ears what happens to the sound for the person next to me in the passenger seat? I'd I set it for the distance to the drivers seat will it noticeably decrease the sound quality for the passenger?
Is that amp you're using the same one I have? Rockford 800a2? How is it?Mate, if your hobbies, require trunk space then seriously consider infinite baffle. Its very efficient as long as you have a subwoofer with low FS and high QTS, basically most subwoofer would suit this category.
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Sorry again, I know it can be frustrating for you guys. I'm trying to ask the right questions and watch the right videos but the terminology has me getting confused and trying to sort out what I need to know vs what I dont need to know this minuet.You try out different orientations. Your box should be about the size of a side table or smaller so you can rotate it. Generally speaking sub towards the trunk works the best but I'm not an expert on loading in cars.
Regarding the 4 channel, yes you would run the doors active with the tweeters turned down significantly so one driver is one channel. 2 mids, 2 tweets. Then of course the sub channel.
The passenger won't really notice unless they've trained their ears well enough. If you put enough time into it (not worth it) you can build two presets and tune each side individually. Basic EQ, filters, and TA will be more than enough
You could do it all pretty decently with <$1k. That's including two new amps, a taramps md3000.1 and some clone 4 channel like the ppi900.4, nvx 900.4, etc
Awesome man! Perfectly answered. I'm going to buy all the equipment that Jeffdachef listed plus your sub and box.It's just a ported truck box. Infinite baffle (IB) has no box. IB is typically done in the rear deck of a car or walling off the trunk using the entire trunk as the box effectively resulting in an "infinitely" large sealed enclosure.
I like old stuff, but with the distance you're going I don't think it would be wise to keep that old thing around. Given your goals I think a good 10 would be plenty.
DC Level 1 https://www.sonicelectronix.com/item_126773_DC-Audio-Level-1-10-m4-D4.html With the D4 you could wire in series and the old RF would power it well.
FWIW - i don't think anyone has commented on that amp -- It's a classic. Way under-rated and built like a tank. It's like a 69 Camaro -- Old school American muscle. It's not very efficient by today's standards, but at ~400w it's not a problem.
Box: https://www.ebay.com/itm/Rockville-RSV10B-Single-10-1-0-cu-ft-Bedlined-Vented-Subwoofer-Enclosure-Box/352415423331?hash=item520d989b63:g:j4MAAOSwhilbWu1X
I put it in winisd pro -- the plot looks really good.
You're going WAY beyond anything any 15 y/o stock system is going to give you -- Way WAY beyond.
I thought the plan was run the 4 ch active (2 ch on mids, 2 ch on tweets) and use the RF bridged to run the sub. I may have missed something -- I just skimmed through all that yesterday.Awesome man! Perfectly answered. I'm going to buy all the equipment that Jeffdachef listed plus your sub and box.
The 4 channel amp he listed will run my 2 tweeters and 2 mids plus it will have a sub channel to run the sub you provided correct? So I wont actually be using the RF I already have. Which I think is a 2 channel?
1) I haven't used a DSP, but I don't think there'd be any point in a kill switch for everything...just stop whatever's playing. A switch on the sub remote wire wouldn't be a bad idea.1) Last couple of questions that I can think of. Do you guys install a kill switch to cut off the power to the entire system? Or just to the sub? I had one for my sub when my cousins installed them on my first car. But I didnt upgrade anything else so not sure.
2) Also will this drain a lot of power from my car both with the engine on or off? I cant see it creating worst mpg or anything but i can see it killing the battery or maybe making the alternator work overtime? Just thinking if theres any way for this build to hurt the car.
3) Does the amp produce power so you're not draining the battery quicker? Should I only have the system powered up when the engine is on? And when the engine is off turn the system off also?
That's what I was trying to ask yesterday. I was confused and wasnt sure what the plan was. I didnt know if I was running the 2 tweeters and 2 mids on a new 4 channel amp that @Jeffdachef said to buy or the one you recommended. Then run the sub I'm going to buy on my RF amp. I guess using 2 amps is what you mean by bridge?I thought the plan was run the 4 ch active (2 ch on mids, 2 ch on tweets) and use the RF bridged to run the sub. I may have missed something -- I just skimmed through all that yesterday.
"Bridge" means to combine 2 channels of an amp into one. Common for using a 2 channel amp to run a sub.That's what I was trying to ask yesterday. I was confused and wasnt sure what the plan was. I didnt know if I was running the 2 tweeters and 2 mids on a new 4 channel amp that @Jeffdachef said to buy or the one you recommended. Then run the sub I'm going to buy on my RF amp. I guess using 2 amps is what you mean by bridge?
Or I wasnt positive if Jeff wanted me to run the sub and 4 speakers on a 4 channel amp that I'm going to be buying and not use the RF
Jeff's a man with a plan! At least he factored in the use of my existing sub and amp. I'm going to buy everything off the 2 lists he provided then I'll buy the sub and box you recommended since I can hook up my current sub temporarily if I need to wait a few weeks before buying the new sub."Bridge" means to combine 2 channels of an amp into one. Common for using a 2 channel amp to run a sub.
It was clear Jeff was recommending using the Pioneer 4 ch to run the mids and tweeters -- commonly referred to as "active" -- in that the power and frequency control for the woofers/tweeters is being done by an active component (the DSP) vs the more traditional/basic (and slightly less desirable in terms of SQ) practice of using a passive 2-way crossover after the amp which filters hi's for the woofer and lows for the tweeter.
He never mentioned a 2nd amp, but did account for running sub signal through the DSP (channels 7-8), implying a 2nd amp and sub would be used.