Featured New Rio System

[sherbanater]

just ordered everything to make my little hatchback sound so much better.
Went with all Deaf Bonce and Kicker for the Sub.

x2 Avatar MBR-61LE 6.5 for the front doors
x2 Machete MLH-60 for the rear
x2 Machete MT-15 Tweeters
x1 Kicker Comp-R at 1ohm by a Recoil 1320 class D amp in a Q-Bomb single 12" enclosure

Click to read more...

 

[CarAudio.com - Hal AI Bots]

just ordered everything to make my little hatchback sound so much better.
Went with all Deaf Bonce and Kicker for the Sub.

x2 Avatar MBR-61LE 6.5 for the front doors
x2 Machete MLH-60 for the rear
x2 Machete MT-15 Tweeters
x1 Kicker Comp-R at 1ohm by a Recoil 1320 class D amp in a Q-Bomb single 12" enclosure


View attachment 71656

It sounds like you've made some fantastic upgrades to your hatchback's audio system! With the combination of Deaf Bonce and Kicker components, you're set for great sound quality. Here’s a quick recap of what you’ve got:

1. Front Speakers: x2 Avatar MBR-61LE 6.5” speakers
2. Rear Speakers: x2 Machete MLH-60
3. Tweeters: x2 Machete MT-15
4. Subwoofer: x1 Kicker Comp-R (1 ohm)
5. Amplifier: Recoil 1320 class D amp
6. Enclosure: Q-Bomb single 12” enclosure

Looks like your audio setup will deliver some powerful and clear audio! Enjoy the new sound experience in your ride!

 

[Old_Slapper]

You should be happy with it.

 

[sherbanater]

I work to much...never have time to get what i need done but at least I got started!

 

[Doxquzme Premium Member]

Are you getting the 5-channel Recoil amp?

 

[sherbanater]

Are you getting the 5-channel Recoil amp?

Thought about it but my Recoil 1320 handles my sub at 1ohm so good I figured I'd just go with the Recoil DI550 4 channel
The one thing I'm unsure of is if i'll need another LOC or can I use the speaker input feature through the amp...never really wired an amp up like that.

 

[Doxquzme Premium Member]

It's [possible, not really desirable.

If you think in terms of channels, it will help. 4+1 is 5, regardless if you use two 2-channel amps, and a monoblock or 1 4-channel and a momnoblock or 5 monoblocks, 5 channels any way you slice it.

I know that seems obvious, but I make this distinction for a reason,

If you split the initial signal to all 5 channels, all your volume control is based firstly on the single speaker leads providing the signal.

This means that you have to tune all the gains, every channel, to set the front/Rear, Right/Left as you like it, ahead of time, because you will not be able to adjust anything but R/L, no front-to-back fader at all.

Ideally, you want a 6-8 channel source you can adjust at your fingertips.

Now there are some multi-channel LOC's that have Bluetooth you can control from an app, or some that have a wired remote.

The best case scenario when you are using the factory head unit is to utilize front and rear sets of speaker leads so you have front to rear and side to side balance controls.

This would require two LOCs or one multi-channel LOC.

No need to get a 5-channel if you have the monoblock already; adding a 4-channel would be the same as having a 5-channel.

As for the Recoil 4-channel amp, consider spending $10 more and get the DI800-4. Set the gains conservatively; it will give you lots more power without breaking a sweat.

My rule of thumb is RMS plus 50%, and in your situation, the 800-4 is a no-brainer.

Here's a good buy for a LOC.

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B09CJSQWCQ/?tag=caraudiocom-20

Another excellent option:

https://www.ebay.com/itm/295243716072?mkcid=1&mkrid=711-53200-19255-0&siteid=0&customid=link&campid=5335951755&toolid=20001&mkevt=1

At the end of the day, you can split the signal off the 2-ch LOC 5-6 ways; you just have to tune everything for balance ahead of time.

 

[sherbanater]

I appreciate all the solid info in helping me choose all the right equipment because my OCD overwhelms my thought process sometimes...The multi-channel LOC is definitely the way to go along with the D1800-4.
Do you recommend a DSC as well or just have a pro tune it correctly because that's way above what I'm familiar with!
The biggest problem I'm having now is finding speaker adapters that fit my ride because based on what Crutchfield and every other search that came up recommends a 6.5 in all doors. Well there all wrong!
#1 The speaker size is 5.25" not 6.5"
#2 The basket width of the MBR-61LE and MLH-60 is 146mm (oversized I guess)
#3 The Speaker Adapters basket width is a max of 135mm
#4 I went ahead and ordered a set of rings that should fit and just do some DYI drilling and modding.
Hopefully the rings thickness will keep it far enough away from the window

Any more help or suggestions are greatly appreciated and again thanks for all your knowledgeable input!

 

[Doxquzme Premium Member]

I think you meant DSP.

DSP is great, it's a tool like anything else, and in the hands of the person who knows how to use it, amazing things happen.

Otherwise, it's just a fancy tool that may or may not help at all, and done correctly, it can be fairly expensive, even the relatively inexpensive units.

There is an exception that's worth looking into.

The D4S EZY DSP 610, and right now, it's a no-brainer at $180.00. This unit is not only quite capable (and quite good) for all your EQing needs, it will also accept high-level (speaker) and low-level (RCA) leads, which eliminates the need to use any LOC; it's built into this DSP.

Down4Sound XPS610 DSP | 6-In/10-Out

Take full command of your car audio system with the Down4Sound XPS610 DSP Processor. Designed for enthusiasts who want power and flexibility, the XPS610 gives you 6 switchable RCA/High-Level inputs and 10 RCA outputs, letting you build and fine-tune the system you’ve always wanted. With...

www.mooncarstereo.com

It's a fairly straightforward, fairly easy-to-learn product, and there are self-help vids on YouTube that can teach you the basics for setting the EQ and time alignment. Those are important when tuning your setup; they make a real difference.

It's a very quiet, high SQ unit, and here is more info to peruse at your leisure before deciding:





You can use your phone or a laptop to download the free software.

I'm using the EZY DSP612+ for the back half of my system.

As for using the 6.5's or the 5.25's of the same model speaker, just set the HP filter for the smaller ones at 10-15hz higher, around 85-90 Hz.

 

[pisto]

Look, I'm just asking. Why not try to upgrade the Source or head unit for this? Is there a lack of options? i would never dream of using a factory source unit with high-level inputs. Maybe I'm just ignorant though.

 

[Doxquzme Premium Member]

Look, I'm just asking. Why not try to upgrade the Source or head unit for this? Is there a lack of options? i would never dream of using a factory source unit with high-level inputs. Maybe I'm just ignorant though.

While I don't disagree with the sentiment, installing an upgraded head unit, while ideal, is not like yesteryear, where one just finds the ACC12v, 12V+ and ground, hook it up, plug in the RCA's into that big Ole RF or SoundStream Van Gogh, there's much more attached, sometimes vital stuff like forward and rear cameras, handbrake disengagement, infotainment things that connect to hands-free or steering wheel adjustments, tire pressure gauges, etc., and a lot of people use those controls.

I don't and still opted to install the Meastro, iDatalink stuff, just in case.

In the case of the parking brake, the system may not work if you don't account for that little monitoring device. That integration in and of itself adds anywhere from $200 to $350+ to the installation, so it is a consideration.

One nice thing about that DSP unit is that it will make what he has as good as it can be, and it also has 6 low-level RCA inputs and a full 10 channels out, should he want to add an aftermarket HU later.

Gotta start somewhere, but it's also good to keep future upgrades/use in mind as well.

 

[pisto]

Well yes that is correct. And, it is true to the extent that I had a family member's Lexus RX350 take $1000 to upgrade the electronics to accept Carplay, etc.

I got the Maestro/iDatalink in the Pioneer unit I have because I though I would need it for the Xterra I have. It was way overkill for that. The Xterra is still on the DIN format and Has plug and play adapters for the factory harness.

I wonder though, have we even looked at adapter kits for that YMM????

High level input isn't the end of the world. This product you have pointed out is a piece of work.

 

[Doxquzme Premium Member]

Well yes that is correct. And, it is true to the extent that I had a family member's Lexus RX350 take $1000 to upgrade the electronics to accept Carplay, etc.

I got the Maestro/iDatalink in the Pioneer unit I have because I though I would need it for the Xterra I have. It was way overkill for that. The Xterra is still on the DIN format and Has plug and play adapters for the factory harness.

I wonder though, have we even looked at adapter kits for that YMM????

High level input isn't the end of the world. This product you have pointed out is a piece of work.

It's really a steal as DSPs go.

 

[sherbanater]

I think if I was inclined to spend a lot more money or if I was going to do some competitions an aftermarket head unit and DSP would be beneficial but I'm just looking for a loud, crisp and clear daily driver on a budget. I think I'm just going to ether grab a 4 channel amp and LOC or go with a 5 channel amp.

 

[Doxquzme Premium Member]

Should be great, much better than what it comes with for sure.

Even simple-ish DSP units require a bit more investment, and the learning curve is kinda steep, not something you want to go into half-baked.

Sounds like you know the direction, feel free to hit us up for settings, install help, etc.

Get some of that CLD and lay it down everywhere you can, especiall on the door panels, it makes a HUGE difference.

Butyl Sound Deadener - 9 Pack

SAVE 50–75% on surplus Butyl Sound Deadeners | Heavy-duty sound and vibration dampening mats ideal for vehicles, workshops, and home studios | Located: IA

www.repurposedmaterialsinc.com

36 sq ft for $36 with an initial purchase 10% discount.

One other thing, get these too.

Amazon.com: Maasechs 20 Pcs Foam Speaker Ring Kit 1” Thick Self Adhesive Speaker Ring Baffle Include 12 Acoustic Foam Strips 8 Wave Reflection Pads Fits 1" to 6" x 9", Waterproof Improves Sound Reduces Vibration : Automotive

Buy Maasechs 20 Pcs Foam Speaker Ring Kit 1” Thick Self Adhesive Speaker Ring Baffle Include 12 Acoustic Foam Strips 8 Wave Reflection Pads Fits 1" to 6" x 9", Waterproof Improves Sound Reduces Vibration: Insulation - Amazon.com ✓ FREE DELIVERY possible on eligible purchases

www.amazon.com

Very important, especially with the gear you're getting. You don't want sound bouncing around in between the door card and door panel; this routes sound straight out into the cabin, and placing the pad directly opposite the speaker on the inside of the outer door panel decreases reflective waves bouncing off the rear of the driver, which significantly reduces resonance in the door.