Beginner system/build question, head unit and speakers?

[wew lad 5,000+ posts]

Those prebuilt slim truck enclosures with sub are pretty terrible as far as output goes. I'd say they're about a 1/100 when it comes to loudness and you should be at about a 20/100 for what you want 

The oldschool rockfords are pretty awesome, although I'd argue they're worth more sold as a rare working amplifier than they are being used because at this age they're just asking to pop if the caps havent been replaced. If you don't care just bridge it like said, it'll put out plenty of clean power.

 

[Jeffdachef 5,000+ posts]

That's what I was trying to ask yesterday. I was confused and wasnt sure what the plan was. I didnt know if I was running the 2 tweeters and 2 mids on a new 4 channel amp that @Jeffdachef said to buy or the one you recommended. Then run the sub I'm going to buy on my RF amp. I guess using 2 amps is what you mean by bridge?

Or I wasnt positive if Jeff wanted me to run the sub and 4 speakers on a 4 channel amp that I'm going to be buying and not use the RF

you are definitely using your RF amp for the subs.  Running active meant using all 4 channels of your amp already you have nothing left for the subs.... 

my bad i was in a cancun trip getting lit haha.  Yeah I thought your old kicker sub would be something okay for now that you can recycle and use to save money but that sub in the picture kinda looks like a flea market special.  

 

[Cheezledzul]

you are definitely using your RF amp for the subs.  Running active meant using all 4 channels of your amp already you have nothing left for the subs.... 

my bad i was in a cancun trip getting lit haha.  Yeah I thought your old kicker sub would be something okay for now that you can recycle and use to save money but that sub in the picture kinda looks like a flea market special.  

Lmao dude my problems are more important than gettin lit in Cancun. Thinj about that next time you decide to give advice then ditch.... kidding

Yeah I'm gonna wire the sub I have. A sub will be the last thing I buy but it will be now something um including in the list for this build where as previously it was a distant upgrade. 

Do you have a sub reccomendation? N2 provided a link to a sub and box for it but options are always good. I'll start slowly buying all the things from your list in about a week. 

 

[DRBOOM]

Mate, that's a 400a4, and I had a Rockford 800a2 the other side.   Only downside was it kept tripping the circuit breaker as they are class A/B amp so I replaced it with a Phoenix Gold RX1100.1 amp, being run at 2 ohms at 444 rms per driver.

 

[Slo_Ride 5,000+ posts]

It's just a ported truck box.  Infinite baffle (IB) has no box.  IB is typically done in the rear deck of a car or walling off the trunk using the entire trunk as the box effectively resulting in an "infinitely" large sealed enclosure.

I like old stuff, but with the distance you're going I don't think it would be wise to keep that old thing around.  Given your goals I think a good 10 would be plenty.

DC Level 1   https://www.sonicelectronix.com/item_126773_DC-Audio-Level-1-10-m4-D4.html  With the D4 you could wire in series and the old RF would power it well.

FWIW - i don't think anyone has commented on that amp -- It's a classic.  Way under-rated and built like a tank.  It's like a 69 Camaro -- Old school American muscle.  It's not very efficient by today's standards, but at ~400w it's not a problem.

Box: https://www.ebay.com/itm/Rockville-RSV10B-Single-10-1-0-cu-ft-Bedlined-Vented-Subwoofer-Enclosure-Box/352415423331?hash=item520d989b63:g:j4MAAOSwhilbWu1X

I put it in winisd pro -- the plot looks really good.

You're going WAY beyond anything any 15 y/o stock system is going to give you -- Way WAY beyond.

Mate, that's a 400a4, and I had a Rockford 800a2 the other side.   Only downside was it kept tripping the circuit breaker as they are class A/B amp so I replaced it with a Phoenix Gold RX1100.1 amp, being run at 2 ohms at 444 rms per driver.

All ancient technology. Someone mentioned '69 Camaro and thats a good analogy. New **** is way more efficient. All wrong bro. You're going about all wrong.

 

[DRBOOM]

Agree, whilst there is always a market for old school car audio, given todays technology, newer items are way more efficient and much more smaller foot print compared to the old school Surf size amps.  They were good on the proviso you invested on good power kit and healthy battery or upgraded alternator.  Today, those added costs does not matter since newer amps are way more efficient.

I just got a Hertz HDP-4, tiny foot print but churns out 150rms x 4 from a size smaller then a A4 paper.. bench tested it, very clean and powerful!

 

[Cheezledzul]

Agree, whilst there is always a market for old school car audio, given todays technology, newer items are way more efficient and much more smaller foot print compared to the old school Surf size amps.  They were good on the proviso you invested on good power kit and healthy battery or upgraded alternator.  Today, those added costs does not matter since newer amps are way more efficient.

I just got a Hertz HDP-4, tiny foot print but churns out 150rms x 4 from a size smaller then a A4 paper.. bench tested it, very clean and powerful!

I hear ya. So I will upgrade the amp and sub instead of using my old stuff. That's the last thing I'll get and install. Is that ok to do last?

I just picked up the car. Luckily you recommended the dongle and bluetooth because the head unit is only 3.25".

Plus theres no USB ports. Surprising the Bose kit and sub it came with sounds better than I expected it would. But I'm 10000% going to be upgrading it asap lol. It's by no means great and I dont want to onky listen to the radio