Batteries are over rated

Why do you think lithium is so expensive? I just bought two banks of lishen and the bars for $460 delivered. That's 216 ah. They should last 5-10 years and only weigh 22 pounds combined.

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Lots of reasons why lithium is so expensive. And don't get me wrong, it has a really high power to weight ratio, which blows away lead acid or AGM batts.
So for several hundred dollars, I could replace my AGM and cut like 50 lbs, from my 5000 lb rig.
Unfortunately, it would do nothing (or very little) for my stereo system, as I'm charging at just about maximum voltage now !
On the other hand, I contend that you could have 1000 ah, heck, 3000 ah of the best lithium on the planet, but all of that combined would still not deliver power bursts as quickly, as a single supercapacitor.

I hope your lithiums get your voltage up as strong as mine is without it. But I'm positive a supercapacitor would still help your setup for quick spikes of juice, for kick drums and such.
 
I believe some competitions don't allow the engine to be running.
I think that might be for certain classes (straight SQ ?) and of course, these things will vary from show to show. Most of the SPL stuff I've seen. not only allows the car to be running, but they also expect guys to rev the heck out of their motors. My truck idols so darn low (like 500-600 rpms) but yet even bumping it up to 1500 will give me back the .2 volt drop that I usually get when Im beating the chit out of it :)
Personally speaking, I NEVER play my stereo with my truck off.
 
What your saying is partly true. Batteries do produce power on demand.... But so do super caps, and they do it multitudes faster. They don't store much, but then, if your making enough power to begin with, they don't have to.
My 500 farad super capacitor only stores 8 ah's, but wow, what a difference it makes for my electrical system ! 👍

Thanks for the clarification.
 
I’m assuming this is a junker that was totaled before? Look at those rails, they look nasty
I see that all the time :) Systems worth more than the vehicle :) lol But im not hating... I'm pretty poor myself. Just lucky to have a pretty clean 08' F150, with only 74K miles on it.

That is a pretty hardcore looking SPL system though ! Hats off to that guy !
Cool license plate too ;)
 
I’m assuming this is a junker that was totaled before? Look at those rails, they look nasty

It was like that when the guy bought it. I forget why they cut it like that. It's actually a pretty decent looking Tahoe. It's on 26's with air shocks. It's not his daily driver. The paint is nice and no dents anywhere.
 
I'm not sure what the problem is with your system ?
But I'm running almost the exact same system.... 3Kwts + a few more... a 100 ah AGM battery, an XS Power 500 farad supercapacitor, and if the truck and alternator are cool, I might drop from 14.5 volts to 14.3 volts, playing hardcore bass tracks at full tilt !
If I'm driving, with rpm's up to 1500 or higher, my voltage will stay pegged at 14.5, even when beating the heck out of the system ! (Which I think is pretty bad ass 👍)
Now granted, on a hot day, after everything is fully charged > with the stereo turned completely off, my truck will charge at 13.8, then if I turn the system on and start beating it, again will drop about .2 volts to 13.6..... but if I'm driving and have my RPM's up 1500 or higher, again, it won't drop at all.... It's just that it will start out at 13.8, which bugs me.
I've read this has to do with the ECU telling the alternator everything is fully charged (in it's opinion) and it doesn't need to work so hard, especially when hot, so as to preserve it's own life span. Whatever, I'd prefer 14.5 at all times, even if it did die a year or two sooner 😀 lol

Long story short, hot weather / a hot alternator, and what my ECU considers to be a "good enough" charge, causes my voltage to run at 13.8. Instead of 14.5. While beating my system has almost zero effect on my voltage.

I've looked at a ton of those 30, 60, 100Kwt+ stereo systems... I think like "most" of them 😀 lol, and yes, lots of them tend to go the "bunch of" batteries rout... Or the few big, crazy expensive lithium rout, and yes, that can work.
But again, I know it's possible to run those kinds of systems with few to zero actual batteries... Not even lead acid, let alone lithium. One just needs to make enough amps to begin with.

BTW, it would take too much explaining here, but I know of a way that a strong vehicle... A big truck, or SUV, could make like 6000 amps or more ! And btw, this is enough amps to make 87,000 watts at 14.5 volts continuous !

Anyway, 20 lithium batteries wouldn't help my system, because I'm able to stay at max voltage now 😉👍

What 3K amp and subs are you running?
 
if you use more power than your making, you will eventually run out.
Now let's quantify "eventually". Unplug your alternator and battery from your cap back and time how long those Maxwell caps keep things powered up for you.

The biggest issue with "just add more alternators, bro" is that some people have vehicles for which no HO alternator options exist at all, few vehicles have room for multiples and fewer still have off-the-shelf solutions for installing multiples.

How much power are you running by the way? Are you competing or playing music?
 
Now let's quantify "eventually". Unplug your alternator and battery from your cap back and time how long those Maxwell caps keep things powered up for you.

The biggest issue with "just add more alternators, bro" is that some people have vehicles for which no HO alternator options exist at all, few vehicles have room for multiples and fewer still have off-the-shelf solutions for installing multiples.

How much power are you running by the way? Are you competing or playing music?
First off, thank you. You have some fair arguments here.

My supercap holds 8 ah's :) lol .... so by itself ? I dunno'... maybe about a minute ? :) lol But since I NEVER run my stereo without my truck, I don't think this matters at all, ever.

Your absolutely right that many cars don't have space for a bigger, or multiple alternators..... however, I know at least a few alternator companies advertise that they can custom make you an alternator to fit ANY vehicle, that will put out at least 250 amps, but probably more. Of course, you don't need to tell me how a big alternator will really drag on a tiny car, that's only making like 100 or 130 ho to begin with.
So for these situations ^ yes, you mostly win the argument.

I just feel like a LOT of the guys who are running big, crazy systems are also driving big SUV's and super cab trucks which have plenty of space for alternators. Certainly "most" guys who buy a vehicle with a very large stereo system in mind, are driving vehicles with space for more alts.

My system is a daily driver... Do you want the bench tested wattage for my two amps ? Sure... but you will probably be quick to tell me that I'm only making like half of that, right ? I know all about Impedance drop (among other things) My amp numbers would say 3.1K.... So what is this ? 1.7K ? But I dunno. I feel like I could make more before I actually started to notice ANY voltage drop. Maybe if I had enough / big enough amps to make 5Kwt (and actually 3Kwt to the speakers) I'd start to see some voltage drop, even when driving... or motor slightly revved up.... But again, that's when I'd be getting another alternator :)
 
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