Alex's Silverado

Should be loud for now but once you get alot more power should be nasty. Tuned in.
This guy has less cone area than me and a Sundown 6k amp for power:



^That looks nasty to me (You'll have to skip about half way through)

 
That on the shell should be really solid but with a router and flush bit, rabbet bit, and roundover bit you can stack 3/4 to make a baffle much easier and cleaner than trying to carve through 3.5 of pine to make your mounting holes and get a nice flush mount. Buy a second flush bit because you'll always break one when you're in the middle of something. The router should also simplify copying pieces elsewhere when you're trying to double layer.
I can't find my router and can't afford a new one //content.invisioncic.com/y282845/emoticons/crap.gif.7f4dd41e3e9b23fbd170a1ee6f65cecc.gif

 
Yes, much more when I have money
I'd bet that it costs you 1000$ per dB gained once you're at 8K if you just plan on adding more power. Far cheaper and more effective ways to gain audible output from where you should be sitting with the equipment you have.

 
I can't find my router and can't afford a new one //content.invisioncic.com/y282845/emoticons/crap.gif.7f4dd41e3e9b23fbd170a1ee6f65cecc.gif
Don't they have pawn shops where you live? Best source for buying tools.

If you want this build to look decent and be solid you can't afford not to own a router.

 
I'd bet that it costs you 1000$ per dB gained once you're at 8K if you just plan on adding more power. Far cheaper and more effective ways to gain audible output from where you should be sitting with the equipment you have.
How would you suggest getting more audible output then?

That is nasty.
Yup

Don't they have pawn shops where you live? Best source for buying tools.
If you want this build to look decent and be solid you can't afford not to own a router.
They do. Didn't think about going there for a router. Hopefully they've got jigs too

 
I think hispl is saying tweaking your build and such. Test with port in different positions, subs or port loading off different things, port area, ect. You could potentially gain a few db just changing your wall.

As said before I would do the thickest baffle possible, along with 3 layers or better all around. You can weld a metal cage and put a box inside that of maybe 1 layer but that would be a lot more work.

I think in your small cabin you could do 158 tbh.

I saw a guy do a 155.3 with 2 18's no wall on a single taramps 20k in a crew cab this year. Also saw a guy with a single 15" and aa7500.1 do a 154 in a s-10. You do it right and you will meter high. That low tuning is going to hurt you though

 
How would you suggest getting more audible output then?


Yup

They do. Didn't think about going there for a router. Hopefully they've got jigs too
Optimize the box. For starters over build it, and build it bigger than you think you need. You can then easily add material to round corners or angle the rear (which can gain significantly)....or just add material to shrink the box if needed.

Extreme reinforcing of panels next. If you don't care about competing where doing so would put you in extreme/modified classes welding some steel to the roof and doors or adding 1/4" of fiberglass would be big. Fill behind plastic trim with caulking and similar so that nothing rattles or flexes. Even just heavy deadening to reduce the noise floor amounts to the same as free output as far as seeming audibly louder.

Really throwing 1200$ at another 8K amp and another 1000$ into batteries won't gain you more than 2dB. A very poor investment compared to other options, particularly since if you don't reinforce panels they will sound awful and probably break anyway particularly if you try to double power.

 
Optimize the box. For starters over build it, and build it bigger than you think you need. You can then easily add material to round corners or angle the rear (which can gain significantly)....or just add material to shrink the box if needed.
Extreme reinforcing of panels next. If you don't care about competing where doing so would put you in extreme/modified classes welding some steel to the roof and doors or adding 1/4" of fiberglass would be big. Fill behind plastic trim with caulking and similar so that nothing rattles or flexes. Even just heavy deadening to reduce the noise floor amounts to the same as free output as far as seeming audibly louder.

Really throwing 1200$ at another 8K amp and another 1000$ into batteries won't gain you more than 2dB. A very poor investment compared to other options, particularly since if you don't reinforce panels they will sound awful and probably break anyway particularly if you try to double power.
Bro u just talking out your arse. U can't tell him another 8k and $1000 in batteries won't gain 2db.. HOW THE FVCK DO YOU KNOW? God dang internet know it ally's in here...in the Hhr we went from 158db to 160.5db just by switching to nsv3s and 16v, that cost under 2grand for the switch and we gained 2db.... And another thing a guy did 155db in a crew can with two 18s so you should do a 58db yet the guy that said that 72impala only was doing 157 with 4 wardens in his excursion on lots of power... It's hard to get loud but since ppl seen it on the internet so it has to be easy.. Adulbrich is 17 and a lot of those really loud guys u see on the Internet are late 30-50year olds with experience. Shlt didn't happen over night

A good example is swift on Caco. Had 3-4sp4 18s and then 3-4 dss 18s on two ampere 7.5ks in a f150 4door, he would meter like a 154 sealed and like a 158 door open and that's a bpillar.. According to everyone he should be in 160s+ no problem but oh wait it's not easy getting loud, takes tons of testing and time, and the testing and time is what guys are lacking these days, they just spray from and 2x4 and make some noise. Swifts build was clean though. Lol

 
Last edited by a moderator:
Bro u just talking out your arse. U can't tell him another 8k and $1000 in batteries won't gain 2db.. HOW THE FVCK DO YOU KNOW?
Because the laws of physics say that at the very best he will gain 3dB from doubling power and that's assuming no compression and no losses from panels flexing which is impossible. Your friend changing amps and gaining 2.5dB doesn't disprove the relationship between electrical power and sound intensity.

Furthermore I only said I bet that's the case not that you definitely can't ever under any circumstances gain more than 2dB out of doubling power. Please at least take the time to read before you try to hurl insults at people.

 
Because the laws of physics say that at the very best he will gain 3dB from doubling power and that's assuming no compression and no losses from panels flexing which is impossible. Your friend changing amps and gaining 2.5dB doesn't disprove the relationship between electrical power and sound intensity.
Furthermore I only said I bet that's the case not that you definitely can't ever under any circumstances gain more than 2dB out of doubling power. Please at least take the time to read before you try to hurl insults at people.

He changed subs not amps.i guess u can't read, And gain 2.4db

 
I think hispl is saying tweaking your build and such. Test with port in different positions, subs or port loading off different things, port area, ect. You could potentially gain a few db just changing your wall.
As said before I would do the thickest baffle possible, along with 3 layers or better all around. You can weld a metal cage and put a box inside that of maybe 1 layer but that would be a lot more work.

I think in your small cabin you could do 158 tbh.

I saw a guy do a 155.3 with 2 18's no wall on a single taramps 20k in a crew cab this year. Also saw a guy with a single 15" and aa7500.1 do a 154 in a s-10. You do it right and you will meter high. That low tuning is going to hurt you though
Yeah, I'm going to make it as thick as I can. I want lows, and don't really care about how high I meter, honestly. I'll be tuned to 25hz, which is lower than most here, so I could care less if they say my score isn't shit, lol

Optimize the box. For starters over build it, and build it bigger than you think you need. You can then easily add material to round corners or angle the rear (which can gain significantly)....or just add material to shrink the box if needed.
Extreme reinforcing of panels next. If you don't care about competing where doing so would put you in extreme/modified classes welding some steel to the roof and doors or adding 1/4" of fiberglass would be big. Fill behind plastic trim with caulking and similar so that nothing rattles or flexes. Even just heavy deadening to reduce the noise floor amounts to the same as free output as far as seeming audibly louder.

Really throwing 1200$ at another 8K amp and another 1000$ into batteries won't gain you more than 2dB. A very poor investment compared to other options, particularly since if you don't reinforce panels they will sound awful and probably break anyway particularly if you try to double power.
I am making it as big as I can. Rather than adding a bunch of metal, I was thinking about doing a stripper pole

Might have missed it but what will be net volume/port area for the enclosure?
26 cubes net tuned to 25hz with 16 square inches of port area per cube.

Bro u just talking out your arse. U can't tell him another 8k and $1000 in batteries won't gain 2db.. HOW THE FVCK DO YOU KNOW? God dang internet know it ally's in here...in the Hhr we went from 158db to 160.5db just by switching to nsv3s and 16v, that cost under 2grand for the switch and we gained 2db.... And another thing a guy did 155db in a crew can with two 18s so you should do a 58db yet the guy that said that 72impala only was doing 157 with 4 wardens in his excursion on lots of power... It's hard to get loud but since ppl seen it on the internet so it has to be easy.. Adulbrich is 17 and a lot of those really loud guys u see on the Internet are late 30-50year olds with experience. Shlt didn't happen over night
A good example is swift on Caco. Had 3-4sp4 18s and then 3-4 dss 18s on two ampere 7.5ks in a f150 4door, he would meter like a 154 sealed and like a 158 door open and that's a bpillar.. According to everyone he should be in 160s+ no problem but oh wait it's not easy getting loud, takes tons of testing and time, and the testing and time is what guys are lacking these days, they just spray from and 2x4 and make some noise. Swifts build was clean though. Lol
Thanks, lol. I'm just trying to get loud down low. I'm not trying to get a 160 at 50hz with no lows. This is a daily and demo vehicle

 
Bro u just talking out your arse. U can't tell him another 8k and $1000 in batteries won't gain 2db.. HOW THE FVCK DO YOU KNOW? God dang internet know it ally's in here...in the Hhr we went from 158db to 160.5db just by switching to nsv3s and 16v, that cost under 2grand for the switch and we gained 2db.... And another thing a guy did 155db in a crew can with two 18s so you should do a 58db yet the guy that said that 72impala only was doing 157 with 4 wardens in his excursion on lots of power... It's hard to get loud but since ppl seen it on the internet so it has to be easy.. Adulbrich is 17 and a lot of those really loud guys u see on the Internet are late 30-50year olds with experience. Shlt didn't happen over night
A good example is swift on Caco. Had 3-4sp4 18s and then 3-4 dss 18s on two ampere 7.5ks in a f150 4door, he would meter like a 154 sealed and like a 158 door open and that's a bpillar.. According to everyone he should be in 160s+ no problem but oh wait it's not easy getting loud, takes tons of testing and time, and the testing and time is what guys are lacking these days, they just spray from and 2x4 and make some noise. Swifts build was clean though. Lol
Since your talking crap. Mine is no wall bro. No wall doing the same score as you in a bigger vehicle. Oh and I outlawed a 158 so louder than you without a wall. And on probably the same clamped power

 
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