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Audio System Setup

Found 24 results

  1. I am in the process of replace the factory head unit (sony no nav) with another head unit (power acoustik with nav) and when I went to create a wiring harness, I noticed there were no negative speaker connections coming from original head unit.. So my question is, should I ground the ones coming out of the new head unit to each other or just leave them unconnected? jhorton...
  2. Hey, all I recently just installed an Alpine type S 12" sub in my 2013 Ford Police Interceptor. While I'm driving, the sub randomly spikes up in volume, and then does back down again. There's no coherent pattern that would link it to acceleration or braking. Some context: Ive got a Clarion XH5210 2 channel Amp with a max output of 340W. The amp's remote wire is spliced off of my accessory 1 wire from my ignition switch, as I have a stock head unit. I also have an LC2i, which receives input from my rear speakers, and then through RCA, connects to my amp. Both are off the same power cable ran from the battery, and off the same ground which I have screwed into the metal frame in my trunk. All my wiring is 14 gauge speaker wire (except power and ground of course). If anyone has ran into similar issues, help would be much appreciated! - Jon
  3. So I bought the cheapest car around and of course, it has a crap sound system. fortunately, I had 2 pair of speakers laying around: - PIONEER TS-R6951S 400W 3-Way (this one I want to put in the back) - Boston exl-60c 25w RMS 220w (and these ones in rear passenger seats) and I plan to buy another 2 pair to put in the front door side for the driver and other passengers PIONEER 600W TOTAL 2-WAY 6.5 INCH. However, since I'm new to this type of hobbies/ DIY I don't know anything other than how to make the installation, so the thing I want know is if I need a new stereo player and an amp as well or I easily make the setup work without either of them, and is there anything I am missing. if I put a new stereo I will lose the controls from the steering wheel. Btw before installing the speaker I'm definitely going to revest the sides of the door with sound proofing/vibration deadening sheets to improve the sound ofc.
  4. Hi! So my current setup are Dual 6x9 200w rear deck and Dual 5.25 in the front doors. I’m wanting to know if it would be possible to mount 6x9 speakers in the rear doors and splice them to existing wires. Would this cause any issues with power to my speakers? Would doing this result in screwing up my head unit at all? I have an aftermarket Sony head unit, I don’t know the exact model. Thanks!
  5. Helloooooo Just to be clear i literally know nothing about car audio installations and i need help so i came here. I have a renault clio hatchback 2007 and i am wishing to install the skar audio spx-65c component system to the vehicle i dont want it to be runnning very loud, so i would like to stick to the stock amplifier if that is possible with the components i have brought (but only if it would work). Also how would i go about wiring up the external crossovers to the items that come stock in the car? and finally... what will i have to change / buy (besides from the mountings in the door) to make all the of this work? any help is greatly appreciated
  6. Hello, I would like to know how to connect a crossover to the amplifier. there are 2 crossovers that have 2 way and 3 way they have in+ and in- and for tweeters, sub and medium. thanks regards
  7. I ordered the head unit, wiring harness from crutchfield as well as a little controller module thing and another harness so the steering wheel controls will work. However, looking at the instructions provided by crutchfield, it says that both of the wiring harnesses need to connect to the factory 20-pin connector. I'm pretty sure you can't stack them/connect more than one in this way. The whole reason i ordered through crutchfield was so i wouldnt have to splice into my factory wiring, which makes me uncomfortable (i dont want to create a problem). I thought maybe i could splice the two harnesses together, but they dont have leads in the correct pin positions. Is there a way to splice a wire into one of these multi-connectors without cutting into my factory wiring? Basically i have this: [steering wheel] --> [factory 20pin connector] <-- [crutchfield steering adapter harness] <--[control module] --> [head unit] but at the same time i have [factory 20pin connector] <--[crutch. receiver harness] <--[head unit] Either of these are easy enough by themselves, but i'm trying to do both at once, and as far as i can tell i can't snap both harnesses onto the factory connector at the same time.
  8. If anyone can lend some knowledge please help out . i have an aftermarket stereo with recently upgraded door speakers , now I am trying to install a 5 channel amp and subwoofer so I could boost all the door speakers and also power my subwoofer. I’m pretty confused on which wires have to run to which place , I wanted to just connect the from the amp to the head unit to power all of the speakers from one place instead of running all new speaker wires. I’m trying to install this weekend just need more guidance Thanks Guys 🤙
  9. Hi, I’m hoping someone can help me find the right adaptor for my car stereo. It’s my first car, a Volkswagen Beetle 2001, and the stereo is a Sony one (see photos). The previous stereo was taken out of the car so I’m not sure if I have all the right wires to get this one set up. I’ve attached photos of the stereo and the wires that I’ve currently got in my car. I did originally take this to Halford’s but they said they didn’t sell the correct adaptor and that I’d have to find this on Sony’s website. Does anyone know the correct adaptor, and the best/cheapest way of getting this? Thanks in advance for any help! :)
  10. I have two separate Kicker compR loaded enclosures, both 2 ohms 500 rms. I currently have one set up and am looking for a new amp to wire up the other, looking around i can't find anyone talking about how to wire this considering its an enclosure, i was wondering how they would be set up using a mono amp, or would i need a 2 channel? any help is appreciated thanks.
  11. Okay so basically right now my setup consists of a sundown u12 and it's wired to 1ohm I've even checked this with a multimeter the amp is a hiphonics Zeus zxx-1800.1d mono amp. My voltages stay around 14-11 when playing music (I know I know) and im getting nothing out of this speaker. It's rated for 1500 watts and it's doing nothing. I also tried my friends powerbass speaker in my system and his bumps on 500 watts and it barely moves in mine. All fuses are working. (And I'm not saying there's absolutely nothing but it's really lackluster) Basically should I scrap the amp or get a new headunit?? Vehicle is a Lincoln navigator with a line out converter on the stock subwoofer no other modifications.
  12. Hey guys I'm brand new to this forum and need a little help. I apologize up front if this question has already been answered. If so please shoot me a link. I've scoped the internet far and wide and can't find a good answer. Anyway, let's get to the point. I'm in the works of new audio build and I want to run a high output alternator straight to a battery bank that will power all of my subs (8 in total totaling 2700 watts rms) then I want to run a step above stock alternator to the start battery and high/mid range speakers. So here's the problem (or at least I think so). The alternator grounds to the engine directly through the mounting bolts so unless I make an insane alternator mount I can't avoid having 2 power sources sharing the same ground. Is this even a problem? Can you share the same ground or will you ultimately be connecting the batteries together? I want the systems to be completely separate but the more I think about it the more I think I'm not going to be able to do it. Any help would be appreciated. Sorry if the question is layed out poorly hard to think of the right words and terminology. As a side note in case anyone is curious, the build I'm on is 2 15" JLW0v3's, 2 12" JLW0v3, 2 10" JLW0v3's, 2 8" JLW3v3, 2 6.5" JL C7 speakers, 2 1" JL C7 tweeters, 2 5.5" JL C5 speakers, and 2 .75" JL C5 tweeters. 8 subs 8 speakers as many different sizes as possible all on a pioneer p99 in a chevy astro. All JL amps as well except for the highs and mids only because I love pioneer for multi channel applications.
  13. Hello friends. My amp and sub setup in my trunk works well except that the amp overheats regularly. It's a 4-channel amp, so I have two options for wiring the sub: bridged and unbridged. When it's unbridged, it's weak but it doesn't overheat as much. When it's bridged it sounds awesome but overheats after a few minutes, depending on the temperature outside. At first I thought that the ground wasn't good enough, so I moved it to the one of the bolts on the rear strut tower and sanded down every surface until shiny metal. I also cut the ground wire down to 18" or less. It still overheats. Maybe I need a higher gauge wire? I went to this audio shop and this guy told me to try switching the sub from channels 1 and 2 bridged to channels 3 and 4 bridged. So I did. Not sure what it did. I also might need to tune the setup more accurately, but I don't know that that has much to do with overheating issues. My car (95 Civic if you're wondering) came wired by the previous owner for a subwoofer. 4 gauge power wire from the battery to the trunk, 4 gauge ground, and a remote wire and RCA cables from the radio to the trunk. Power and ground are both OFC. Back in April, I got a used amp and a sub and put it in my trunk. I don't know much about audio/electrical, but I'll list what I know about my setup below: The amp I got is a PlanetAudio 4-channel amp (I know it's meant for speakers, but it at least works for the sub and I got it for $50). Here it is. The sub is a Pioneer. Don't know the model number, but the reading on the multimeter at the terminals tells me it's a 4-ohm sub. It's a single voice-coil subwoofer. What I don't understand is what bridging does to the impedance of the circuit. From my understanding, you want to match the impedance as close as you possibly can. So, if my amp is 4 ohms, I want a 4 ohm speaker to match it. Does bridging channels 1 and 2 put the impedance at 2 ohms and make it unstable? Or does running the sub on 1 channel put it at 8 ohms and make it more stable? I don't quite understand. Another quick few things. I have no money, but I still appreciate advice like "get a new amp" or "get a fan to blow air on it" even though I won't be able to follow through with it until I pay for college. Advice concerning the wiring will be much more valuable to me. Thanks for the help, guys.
  14. Background: About four or five years ago I installed a pair of American Bass XD-10s wired to two ohms, powered by a Precision Power BK 1300.1D wired up with 4G Knu Koncepts. Relatively soon after installing, my enclosure slid across my trunk and the amp was ripped off of its mounts (two broke, the others were bent and about to break). Since then I left the amp propped against the enclosure, though it would still fall now and then. The stupidity of this solution finally caught up to me when the amp fell over last week and blew, filling my car with smoke. I'm currently researching replacements vs. buying a new amp, but I'm taking my time and securing the amp properly this time. My Question: I'm planning on securing the new amp to the top of my enclosure with enough slack in the cables to protect against any sliding (I chained up the box to cargo ties, but it still slides 1-3 inches now and then), but I trimmed my power wire too short in the initial install to accomplish this. Would it cause any problems to add in a second fuse at the end of the existing cable so I can add an extra foot or so to connect to the new amp and free up a little slack? tl;dr: Can I add a second fuse to my power cable to connect another foot to free up slack for my amp and install it in a different location?
  15. I have the nvx jad 800 4 channel amp: 4 ohms: 125 watts x 4 chan 2 ohms: 200 watts x 4 chan Bridged, 4 ohms: 400 x 2 chan I have a pair of Alpine components: Peak Power: 330W RMS Power: 110W 4 Ohms Impedance I have a Pioneer DEH-x6900BT head unit: front, rear and sub preouts Questions: I'm only running the pair of components up front off of this nvx amp. how do i bridge the amp and get a 4 ohm impedance? or is that not possible? Should i not bridge the amp at all? do i need to use both the front and rear preouts to be able to fade to the left or to the right? if so how? Thanks to all that reply.
  16. Hey guys, I’m new to the car audio scene so bare with me, I recently got a kicker 4 channel amp that I want to use to give my kicker 6x9 lower door subs some more kick. My questions is do I have to run the speaker wire from the amp to the speakers or can I get away with connecting the speaker wires to the power outputs behind the dash. I just want to power my lower door speakers from the amp not the mid range or tweeters that are also in the door. If I have to run the new speaker wire from the amp to the lower door subs what do I do with the power outputs behind the dash? Thanks
  17. Hi everyone - I am a new member on the forum and need a little help understanding something (and believe me I've searched and searched on this issue using google, forums, vendor sites, car sites, Youtube, images, amplifier and component speakers manuials, etc. and have found nothing to help clarify). On a 4 channel amp. If I attach the output wires from channels 1 & 2 (tweeters) to the crossovers' inputs (assuming this is the correct way to wire it), then from the crossovers I connect separate sets of wires to go to tweets and mids. OK easy enough. What I don't understand is how much power are going to the speakers? If the amp is rated at 50W RMS/channel, does that mean the 4 speakers are getting only 25W each (since all 4 speakers are being fed from only 2 channels on the amp)? What does one do with the remaining channels 3 & 4 on the amp? I would love to see some definitive source say something like: On a 4 channel amp: Connect your tweeter output wires from the amp to the "input" on the crossover. You won't use the remaining 2 channels (3 & 4) on the amp or you can bridge them and run a sub You will get xxx watts on each speaker etc... Thanks so much in advance for anyone who can shed light on this. I've been pulling my hair out and done with searching.
  18. I can’t figure out if I have the right wiring harness or not. My harness doesn’t have the 2 orange wires and most of the wires don’t even connect to anything on other side. Like the wires are not even connected. I can’t not find any other harness that has orange wires Item(s) Description/Condition: Price: Shipping and Miscellaneous Item Information: Item Pictures: (List pictures in this section, 1st picture should be your username/date if you have less than 10 positive feedbacks with the i-Trader system or less than 10 references that you have sold to in the past. (These must be listed in your signature, or a link provided to a feedback thread listing these references)).
  19. Hi guys, just joined today ! Sorry if this thread has been posted before. I’ve read over a dozen posts about my situation and can’t find a solution, or the their problem was slightly different than mine. What I have : Rockford F. P3001 , And two 10” dtx subs. And a kenwood deck (They came with the car) The Situation / Problem : my amp is plugged in and everything is good there ( I think) ground is good, power is good, fuses are good, remote wire has power (checked with a voltage meter). The subs are wired correctly. But they don’t make any sound or anything ... I don’t think they’re broken because when I clip my voltage meter to the power cable, and touch the remote wire, I can hear the subs getting power cause they both go “THUD” when the amp turns on. But then no music still? It’s driving me nuts. I have no clue what to do lol. All 4 speakers in my car work, the deck works fine , are my subs just not getting enough power? Or is it my wiring harness? I haven’t really checked that cause I’ll have to take my whole console out (again) and it’s a pain to get to. Any thoughts ? I’ll respond to questions as soon as I can. Thanks again! And sorry if you get posts like this all the time. I’m learning
  20. . .Ok. I've made alot of progress in messing with this truck. What I really need to know is, how to specifically wire my subs up to Amp to get a safe and full potential performance. I have a a 400 watt peak power 8" Boss 4 ohm Dual voice coil sub and a 12" Pioneer 4 ohm 800 watt peak power sub. My amplifier is a 2 channel bridgeable legacy predator. 800 watts when bridged. I want to hook both speakers up to amp if possible. Some experts say that the peak power rating doesn't mean much but idk. Also, how does the wiring from the subs to the radio work? Is that what the RCA's are for? Or are they only wired to the amp and the RCAs are from the amp to radio. Need help asap please. Thank you . .
  21. Just bought new subs and an amp for my car, I use the stock cd player(head unit) and I also want to add an aux cord while ive got my cd player out. I created a picture of my plan. I circled the part im iffy about, wouldnt I need a diode or would this work? (Ignore the colors connecting the line output to the cd player) https://gyazo.com/635e32432f9f4990664769a4f3a99bfd
  22. Iʻm running an 8 ga power wire from my battery but need 0gauge wire for the second amp i bought. If i ise a power dist block will it over heat and cause damage or should i just run 0 from my battery and figure out a new way to run the 2 amps. Thanks
  23. I have done electrical wiring before... but never a car stereo. I bought an old junker 2001 cherokee with a sh*tty pioneer CD player in it, which I removed to replace with a boss audio bv9982i single din - i scored it new for 50 bucks, so even if it is junk its still a step up because the USB and bluetooth connection are the real features I am after. Anyway - the plug on the back of the unit runs a few cables into a fuse filter box and then they all connect to a black adaptor (picture here) The old unit plug was crimped to the cables coming from two adapters inside the box (picture here) The big question here: Do i remove the crimp caps and attach the cables to their matching colors in the new big black adapter? It doesn't look possible to me... Or does that big black adapter thing need to come off and then I will just uncrimp the old adapter and crimp my new connections? Thanks for the help!
  24. Bradda_dan

    1600 watt amp

    I have a 1600 wat amp from audio solutions. I have it wired to my two 12"s and the guy never told me how much it can handle or the ohm load or anything. And i canʻt find specs anywhere. My amp is running hot off the two subs so i unhooked one and now itʻs running at 5ohms. But still hot. I have nonodea whatʻs the issue. Itʻs not bridged or anything. Only a 2 channel amp. "As2.800" is the name and the brand is audio solutions. Any ideas or tips would be nice. Thanks from hawaii!