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About me





Audio System Setup

Found 14 results

  1. varano_ohms

    Amplifier -- Sub -- PSU -- Speakers

    Hi, do you connect the amplifier to the 2 jacks (RED-WHITE) behind the radio and the sub do you connect it to the amplifier? having a 250w psu is enough for sub amplifier and a 2x 60w speakers? car radio aiwa 40Wx4 Thanks Regards
  2. I have a 2006 Ford Fusion and had a new stereo installed but now my 6x9 rear speakers aren’t working. They are getting power and I’ve replaced all the fuses for the amplifier. The speakers are in excellent condition
  3. Hello, recently got a car (2000 Suzuki Wagon R+ 1.2) and not satisfied with the current audio setup. Bought an Alpine UTE-200BT head unit for Bluetooth connectivity and USB and fitted it, works a dream. However, I'm not satisfied with the current speakers in the car. From what I can find it only has two speakers in total, one on the driver's door and one on the passenger door. It definitely does not have a sub as the bass is gutless and doesn't improve when adjusted on the head unit. The car is about 18 years old so I didn't expect anything good but now that it's getting used more I need good tunes while I drive. I'm asking for suggestions on what I should get, nothing too crazy just better than standard and good bass and quality. I'm thinking of getting upgraded speakers in the front and also install speakers into the rear door panels as well as a sub in the boot. Is there anything I should be concerned about before I start buying parts. I'm a beginner when it comes to car audio, literally have no experience or any knowledge on car audio. Cheers, Kyle
  4. Hello I want to improve the audio quality in my car, diferent stores are offering to me different brand of components. I want the best audio quality, what model do you think is better? The option of speakers are: -Morel Tempo ultra 602 -Focal 165Kr -Alpine R-S65C My Car: Mercedes GL 450 already installed: Headunit: Kenwood excelon DNN9150 Amp: Rockford T600-4 (100W rms x 4 @ 4 ohm) Sub Amp: Rockford T500-1bd (500W rms x1 @1ohm) SUB: Rockford T1D210
  5. Hi, I just bought a new 2018 Pacifica Touring Plus that I absolutely love. Hi, I just purchased a new 2018 Chrysler Pacifica Touring Plus. While the stock basic 6 speaker system actually sounds much better than I expected, I'd still like to improve on it a bit. I cannot find any information on exactly what components are used, their specifications, and how the speakers are all wired. Does anyone have any of that information to share? My plan is to just upgrade either just the four door speakers, or those plus the two dash corner speakers as well. I also have a self-powered sub-box I want to add. So all in all a pretty conservative upgrade, but one I know will bring a nice improvement to the system. I was looking on the Crutchfield site and found what they say are compatible speakers. The 6x9s I got to demo at a shop and would like to use are Kicker 3-ways (triaxles) listed by Crutchfield as only fitting in the rear doors. I assume this is the case due to the large magnet used on those speakers, which would block the windows from being able to roll down. I'm wondering if I could use a shim to bring the speakers outward enough to clear the window glass, but still fit underneath the stock grill panel? There is a different pair of 6x9s they say will fit the front doors, but those are listed as having an impedance of only 2.3 ohms, which concerns me. Because I don't know if that's how the stock system is already wired up and working or not. I don't want to connect too low of an impedance to it and cause damage to the head unit. I'm guessing that the two front door speakers and the small corner dash speakers are wired together in a way that raises the impedance to acceptable levels for the stock head unit. But I have no way of verifying that aside from pulling it all apart and going from there, which I really do not want to do. I don't have experience in car audio, and may need to hire an installer to help with this install, unless I can learn enough quickly to feel confident I can do it myself and get the right tools for the job. I'm assuming I'd have to pull the dash to access the rear of the head unit as well. I don't know if I can, how, or where I would connect the self-powered sub-box either. Any other tips or suggestions will be greatly appreciated!
  6. Rmxjr67

    First build research

    Whats up guys i already get it noob noob noob no worries it is what it is. Im doin my 93 gmc diesel ground up all out front yard build starting with the inside. Goal is 8 speakers 2 subs.. 4 (4x6) rear pilars and dash 4 (6 1/2) custom glass console and doors. 2 12s under back seat after i rais the seat for clearance. I have read an assload of the help 101 an random question threada on speakers alone. I already plan on sealing the doors with sheet metal and silicone my grey areas are in the components. Whether to go with 2 way 3 way what ohm can you run 8 speakers off one amp or should i go for 2 smaller amps. I would like to put the speaker (not sub) amp/amps in the console. I left the front of it were it meets up with the dash open for air. I also have a dual double din dvd navi in the center of the console. Would 1or2 amps and head unit inside the console be too much heat even if i ran some sort of cooling fan setup. Im not looking to push thousands upon thousands of watts i just want it to be loud as hell and balanced with decent bass... As far as power is concerned my truck has an oversized alternator and 2 batteries from the factory. Any thoughts opinions links on what ive got goin on would be apreciated otherwise ima cross my fingers an wing it
  7. I have a JVC KD-X330BTS after market stero. I drive a 2001 Pontiac Grand Prix GT. A while ago, I was able to turn over the ignition without any key and my battery would die every night. To fix this I brought it into a local shop to get it fixed. They fixed the steering column, AC/HEAT and gave me a new set of keys and a FOB. When I went to go pick the car up I was checking to see if everything was working correctly. But alas, my speakers did not work. I was unsure of the cause because they worked perfectly fine before... My stereo lights up and everything and I am able to change settings and such. I've checked RADIO, RADIO AMP, and Stereo fuses which all are intact. I've also reset the stereo but still to no avail... I am unsure as to why this happened. Does the steering column have anything to do with the stereo or speakers? Please help.
  8. lakimens

    Suggest me speakers for my car..

    Hello, I have a new radio in my car, it's not the best, but it's okay. It says it gives off 60W per channel and it has four channels. I connected speakers from a DVD into it's front channels, wired them parallel so they drop from 6 ohms to 3 ohms and they're okay, but problem is, my car doesn't have speakers in the doors and I don't want to drill holes for them, I put them in the center console next to the handbrake, but they don't sound too good. I am looking for speakers that I can lay in the back of my car, that's where I already have speakers, but they're too quiet for me. I don't know their specs and I can't find out, because it is not written on them. I don't know if it'd be better to get 8 Ohm speakers that do 120W and wire them parallel to reduce the impendance to 4 Ohms. Fusing all channels into one wire and then splitting that wire in two for each speaker to reduce them to 4 ohms. I want to do this, because I don't have a place to mount my front speakers and I'd like to use the front ports as well. If you have other ideas, feel free to suggest. The car is Opel Kadett E 1984. Back speakers. Front speakers from DVD, wired parallel. Fused two channels into one then split into two again. Radio
  9. adulbrich

    68 Vette speaker help

    Well, my uncle wants a stereo in his 67 Corvette. I'm giving him two AGM's, my old Kenwood radio, a cheap crunch amp, and a pair of Massive sumo 6.5 subs. I'm looking to spend around $50 on speakers. What's tricky is the kicks can only fit 4x6 (or 4" round) speakers. Speakers will just be powered off the headunit. This setup doesn't have to sound amazing. It just has to make music at a reasonable volume without sounding terrible to an average listener. I know 4x6's aren't real common with serious audio enthusiasts, but that's the space I've got to work with. If anybody has better budget friendly 4x6's, let me know. So far I'm thinking about getting these for $43: Pioneer TS-A4676R 200 W Max 4" x 6" 3-Way Car Audio Speakers 1540 | eBay
  10. I have a Toyota Vitz 2005 with the Toyota ND3T-W54 stock DVD / Nav. At the moment I have only 2 speakers on each doors but I want to add 2 more at the back. I think this model is surround so adding 2 speakers wouldn't require an amp. I am clueless when it comes to this so I don't know what I'm doing. All I need is to find the 2 speaker wires to connect it too if it's possible.
  11. So after I replaced my 2011 Mazda 3 (Non-Bose) door speakers with Pioneer TS-G6845Rs, the volume of the left side speakers have been reduced by about 80%. They give off a noise like coil rub, like a low "fuzzy" sound. This happened with the factory radio, and ensued after replacing it with a KD-R980BTS.The weird part is when I hooked my home theater stereo to the speakers and raised the volume way up (past what the head unit could) the speakers popped back to life, like brand new. The problem is they go back to the faded sound after a few weeks without any reason. My guess is there might be electromagnetic interference from the doors' parts that mess with the coils or the speaker magnet. Also, when I put the windows all the way down, I think the windows tap and slide over the back of the speaker drivers because it can be heard and felt. Any pros that have a possible solution for this?
  12. So I upgraded my 2011 Mazda 3 (Non-Bose) door speakers with Pioneer TSG6845Rs. The issue is that only the front right and rear right sound fine, but the 2 left speakers have faded and have lost about 80% of their volume. With the stock Mazda head unit, the issue started with the new speakers. I replaced the head unit with a JVC-KD-R980BTS and the issue still ensued. The weird part is when I connect my home theater amp to the speakers and pump the volume way up, they burst back to life! Then they play perfectly fine for a few weeks, but the same problem comes back, and the left side begins to slowly die out. Of course I could pump them up every few weeks, but that's just a nuisance The sound is low and "fuzzy" like coil rub. When I put the front window all the way down I hear the window tap and glide over the speakers. I have a feeling it has something to do with the electromagnetic properties of the door, or the mounting space of speaker, but that doesn't explain why the rear does it too. Any pros that might know a solution? I've browsed many forums but never found a fix.
  13. Romeo11

    Speaker/tweeter suggestions

    I was wondering if anyone could recommend some speakers that can get pretty loud without distorting as I would like to be able to hear lyrics better with my subs at full volume. Sizes are Front: 6"x9" Rear: 6-3/4" tweeters 2.5". For the front and rear 5.25" speakers will work as well. Price range about $200 for a pair but open to spending more if the product seems right
  14. Equipment: Kenwood Excelon XR-1800 Front Speakers. Factory Rear Speakers (faded off). Kenwood Aftermarket HU. JL Audio 10W0v3 Sub in a sealed enclosure. JL Audio RD400/4 amp sending 75 watts to the front and 250 watts bridged to the sub. All the above were professionally installed in a 2007 Toyota matrix by a local car audio shop. Problem: There is little to no midbass coming from the front speakers. This is not an issue on tracks where the lows are below the cutoff frequency which sound great. However, tracks that have bass lines over the cutoff or worse, bridging the cutoff are unlistenable. In the first case they are too flat and have no depth and in the second case the sub will hit notes below the lpf nice and hard while the fronts will hit a note above the hpf that is flat and barely audible. Not only is the bass played by the front speakers quieter than the sub but it is also noticeably quieter than the mids and highs played by the same speaker. I have the X-Over set to 120 so the fronts should be able to play these notes easily. What I've Tried: I've turned off the HPF and LPF on the amp and used only the ones on my HU; I've set the x-over anywhere from 50 to 250 with no improvement. I've turned off the sub, set the HPF on the fronts to through, and cranked the volume and bass. Even with the bass boost maxed out and the volume at uncomfortable levels there is very little midbass; there is no thumping, window rattling, and the notes that are audible sound weak and muted. Cycling through HPF Frequencies does not yield any improvements. Ive done the above but set the balance from one side to the other to see if there is any phasing issues. Having the balance set all to one side or the other does not improve midbass at all; in fact i noticed the midbass increases slightly when the balance is equal. Conclusion: At this point I have no Idea what could be wrong. This is my first aftermarket audio system and it was professionally installed so I do not know much about the installation nor do I know what to look for. Based on the above information I have determined that the issue is not caused by a factory HU, underpowered speakers, x-overs, eq, or phase. Does anyone have any ideas?