Sub placement, does it matter?

Where are you getting these voltage numbers? How have you verified the impedance of your sub at all these frequencies that you're testing?
Just going by the formula for working and setting gains by using a multimeter in a tutorial on here (scroll down to subwoofer part). Then using the subsonic filter setting part, thats where i got those frequency's above

http://www.caraudio.com/forums/amplifiers/63933-gain-setting-tutorial-42.html#post4104530

Subs are wired to 1 ohm and amp at 1000watts. square root of 1000 = 31.62v

I dont know what you mean by verified impedance at different frequency.

 
Just going by the formula for working and setting gains by using a multimeter in a tutorial on here (scroll down to subwoofer part). Then using the subsonic filter setting part, thats where i got those frequency's abovehttp://www.caraudio.com/forums/amplifiers/63933-gain-setting-tutorial-42.html#post4104530

Subs are wired to 1 ohm and amp at 1000watts. square root of 1000 = 31.62v

I dont know what you mean by verified impedance at different frequency.
Your amp will virtually never see 1 ohm while playing those woofers and playing around with a dmm beyond testing continuity of your connections is worthless.

 
Your amp will virtually never see 1 ohm while playing those woofers and playing around with a dmm beyond testing continuity of your connections is worthless.
So how would you recommend setting subsonic filter? or gains? I also dont understand why the amp wouldnt see 1 ohm other than resistance in the wires etc

 
So how would you recommend setting subsonic filter? or gains? I also dont understand why the amp wouldnt see 1 ohm other than resistance in the wires etc
Becuase its not simple DC resistance and the woofers have an impedance curve. I set my subsonic at 1/3 octave or so below tuning

 
could you tell me what a 1/3 octave of 34hz would be please?

Just got my new test leads and got the same figures, now i think its to do with the test track i used. I just dragged the test track into audacity and showed clipping and the whole thing was red indicating clipping all over.

All i did was create tone, and set amplitude to 1. Is this not correct?

Only thing i can think of is that maybe i made a -3db track before, ill give that a go in while

 
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Ive now spoke to a car audio specialist who is kind of local, and he owns a DD-1 and will set my amp for $25.

Is that the best way for me to go about this to get the most out of my amp and subs?

 
i used the -3db 60hz tone and im sure its still not right. Its only a little louder than when i had a single R on 700 watts.

Think im gonna have to take it to the person with the DD-1. Whats your guys opinions on the DD-1?

 
could you tell me what a 1/3 octave of 34hz would be please?


Just got my new test leads and got the same figures, now i think its to do with the test track i used. I just dragged the test track into audacity and showed clipping and the whole thing was red indicating clipping all over.

All i did was create tone, and set amplitude to 1. Is this not correct?

Only thing i can think of is that maybe i made a -3db track before, ill give that a go in while
Approximately 28 HZ is 1/3 octave down. An Octave is one half, or double a frequency so and octave below 34 is 17 hz/3 is 5.66 hz. 34-6 gives you your subsonic setting. As far as the DD1 goes... I have one and they do the job

 
Waiting on a reply from the person with the DD-1

In the meantime i went and put a fresh battery in my DMM and i set the volts to 32 which is like square root of 1030 watts even though my amp is only rated at tad over 1000, and it went from being like one R to quite alot louder but it made my lights dim like crazy. Also standing from the outside of the car its definitely not loud.

really hoping that the DD-1 gets alot more out of these subs, im happy to add another battery, but its just annoying if i had known the gain going from one 12 @ 700 to 2 12's @ 500 each, would have only been as much as i have seen so far i wouldnt have bothered.

 
Just thought id upload a couple pics of the finish

portin2_zpsef71f4d0.jpg


DSC00437_zpsa36b0fa2.jpg


DSC00438_zpse3b90f0f.jpg


Im now looking into a car with a boot that should get 5ft^3 in it so those Rs will perform better and then next on the list will be a 2k rms amp

 
Have you considered just turning up the gain until you can hear distortion while playing music? How about just fiddling with your crossover settings until you're not over-driving the woofers mechanically? I can't believe you're actually considering paying someone 25$ to do something you could do in a couple minutes.

 
Have you considered just turning up the gain until you can hear distortion while playing music? How about just fiddling with your crossover settings until you're not over-driving the woofers mechanically? I can't believe you're actually considering paying someone 25$ to do something you could do in a couple minutes.

Well ive set the high pass to 80 and the subsonic to around 30.

I guess i could give setting the gains by ear a go, its just i dont wanna push my amp too much and kill it. I definitely think the amp has got more than what im pushing it to.

I was wondering aswell, ive found some KnuKonceptz KLM 4 gauge thats very very cheap, and i was thinking of doing the big 3 with that, as it says its good up to 250 amps. The thing is though its CCA aswell and 4 gauge so i dont know if id be wasting my time.

 
Well ive set the high pass to 80 and the subsonic to around 30.
I guess i could give setting the gains by ear a go, its just i dont wanna push my amp too much and kill it. I definitely think the amp has got more than what im pushing it to.

I was wondering aswell, ive found some KnuKonceptz KLM 4 gauge thats very very cheap, and i was thinking of doing the big 3 with that, as it says its good up to 250 amps. The thing is though its CCA aswell and 4 gauge so i dont know if id be wasting my time.
Assuming you fused your amp correctly and it has functioning protection circuits it's unlikely you'll break it by over-driving your subs a little

 
Assuming you fused your amp correctly and it has functioning protection circuits it's unlikely you'll break it by over-driving your subs a little
i think my amp has 3 x 35 amp fuses in it, the 4 awg wire used is fused with 150 amp. Is there a chance my 100 amp alternator or low end battery could be anything to do with the lack in power? my lights dim like crazy

 
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