Bumpin' Yota
10+ year member
CarAudio.com Elite
ok time out, I know most of you know your isht, but so do I. I respect your opinions even though I disagree. //content.invisioncic.com/y282845/emoticons/wink.gif.608e3ea05f1a9f98611af0861652f8fb.gif146 with an 81000d is weak, but from testing, the 81000d wasn't a great amp either....
The 146, if it was on a TL legal, with SEALED subs, is a very good score. If on an AC well I dunno, ive seen those hydrophones all over the place....
Secondarily the 81000 is a hell of an amp and I have MORE than enough test data to prove it. //content.invisioncic.com/y282845/emoticons/wink.gif.608e3ea05f1a9f98611af0861652f8fb.gif
First and formost you must pull Q240 to mod them to remove the voltage protection. Next you have to know how to precisely set the gains. Set RCA output voltage from deck to 0.38vac, max out gain turn off bass boost, open crossover wide open. Run at 17.5volts with a dcr of 0.7 or less for burps only. Doing this we were seeing 5kW per strapped pair. These are directions directly from Mitek...to its competitors...im likely going to regret posting that here.... (MOD AND RUN BELOW 2OHM DCR AT YOUR OWN RISK!!)
I myself ran 4 of them at 1.4 daily, and for a while earlier 2 at 0.7 each daily. They are tanks and very good amps - particularly for the money.
The ONLY beef I have about the amp is that its heavy and that the 81000d requires external bridging mods to strap. The 1501d, same amp, has a phase switch allowing easy strappability. //content.invisioncic.com/y282845/emoticons/wink.gif.608e3ea05f1a9f98611af0861652f8fb.gif
As far as the subs, well I cant comment on either as I've not used them. In the past alpine hasnt impressed me, in the past RE has though...that doesnt mean anything persay, but that is likely why the type R catches so much flack
