newbie speaker install help please

[cparker2591]

ok thank you, i was planning on getting at least 25 feet. will you look at these to sketchs and tell me if one is better/safer than the other please? i would prefer to use the top sketch because it would be less wire(pic doesnt depict this lol).
this way?

or this way?

do i need to run a ground from the rear battery to both amps or just one like in the picture?

 

[Jeffdachef 5,000+ posts]

do i need to run a ground from the rear battery to both amps or just one like in the picture?

Run dedicated pos and negative wire from front to back battery. Then rin dedicated pos and negative wire from battery to amp. Plain and simple. Eliminate chasis grounds completely. You have a friggen 2nd battery, none of that chassis sh*t matters.

 

[cparker2591]

Run dedicated pos and negative wire from front to back battery. Then rin dedicated pos and negative wire from battery to amp. Plain and simple. Eliminate chasis grounds completely. You have a friggen 2nd battery, none of that chassis sh*t matters.

ok thx jeff. ive been looking at possible areas to run my power and ground cables inside and theres no way its fitting under my door trim. was thinking about running it under the car and it would be about 25 feet or so. would you recommend stepping up to 2/0 then running 1/0 from a distribution block near the amps?

 

[cparker2591]

i mean id run 2/0 pos and neg from front to back batt, then 1/0 to both amps. no distribution block needed because of the second battery correct?

 

[Jeffdachef 5,000+ posts]

ok thx jeff. ive been looking at possible areas to run my power and ground cables inside and theres no way its fitting under my door trim. was thinking about running it under the car and it would be about 25 feet or so. would you recommend stepping up to 2/0 then running 1/0 from a distribution block near the amps?

if you havent bought the wire yet, then yes go 2/0 welding.

Front batt to rear batt dedicated pos and negative runs.

No distribution block needed, your 2nd battery is your distribution block. You want everything wired straight up to the second battery so it can feed the amps the current the amp draws properly.

You arent gonna draw anywhere near 390 amps. you'll be lucky drawing half of that. on paper is different than real world.

 

[cparker2591]

if you havent bought the wire yet, then yes go 2/0 welding.
Front batt to rear batt dedicated pos and negative runs.

No distribution block needed, your 2nd battery is your distribution block. You want everything wired straight up to the second battery so it can feed the amps the current the amp draws properly.

You arent gonna draw anywhere near 390 amps. you'll be lucky drawing half of that.

ok and how many fuses would i need? do the dedicated runs from front to back batt need a fuse near both battery's so 4 fuses total?

 

[Jeffdachef 5,000+ posts]

ok and how many fuses would i need? do the dedicated runs from front to back batt need a fuse near both battery's so 4 fuses total?

you only need to run one fuse on the positive run between front and rear batt. You literally are waaay overthinking this.

 

[Clifff150 10+ year member]

FYI, apparently the new soundstream tn900.4's are not the same as they were. There is a new thread that talks about this (started today) so hopefully you got the older board. Where did you purchase yours?

 

[cparker2591]

you only need to run one fuse on the positive run between front and rear batt. You literally are waaay overthinking this.

ok so besides differing on amount of fuses needed, do i wire the second amp as number 1 or number 2 in the picture below?

 

[cparker2591]

FYI, apparently the new soundstream tn900.4's are not the same as they were. There is a new thread that talks about this (started today) so hopefully you got the older board. Where did you purchase yours?

ordered from amazon and it arrived today, here is the link https://www.amazon.com/Soundstream-TN4-900D-Tarantula-4-Channel-Amplifier/dp/B009NLNY14/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1523080897&sr=8-1&keywords=soundstream+tn4.900d&dpID=41RVSF8uDxL&preST=_SX300_QL70_&dpSrc=srch

i have the amp in my hands now, how do i know if its the old or new version? only negative thing i can say is that it didn't come with the 4 gauge to 0 gauge reducers that it says it does online.

 

[cparker2591]

[quote name='Clifff150']FYI, apparently the new soundstream tn900.4's are not the same as they were. There is a new thread that talks about this (started today) so hopefully you got the older board. Where did you purchase yours?[/QUOTE]
@Jeffdachef here are the insides of the amp, I'm assuming i got one of the new crappy ones?

 

[Jeffdachef 5,000+ posts]

[quote name='cparker2591']@Jeffdachef here are the insides of the amp, I'm assuming i got one of the new crappy ones?

[/QUOTE]

Yeah, return it. Thats the crappier version.my bad man, just only recently found out myself

 

[cparker2591]

Yeah, return it. Thats the crappier version.my bad man, just only recently found out myself

no problem, wasn't ur fault. so i ordered the nvx jad800.4......since its not owned by epsilon like sound stream was, it should still be the good amp correct?

 

[Jeffdachef 5,000+ posts]

no problem, wasn't ur fault. so i ordered the nvx jad800.4......since its not owned by epsilon like sound stream was, it should still be the good amp correct?

yup, that brand at least cares about their reputation.

 

[cparker2591]

@Jeffdachef hey man, so its gonna be a while before i can install my high output alternator due to it being buried in the engine compartment. is there a way that i could use the stock 110 alternator for my two amps? i would just keep the gain and head unit volume way down correct? i would still run dedicated 2/0 power and ground runs.