Featured Newbie

[Mattyboy205]

Ok so i have brought an EDGE Car Audio EDP122SPL-E3 12 inch. I will be sticking it in my old vibe active enclosure. The sub is rated at 3000watt peak and 1500 watt rms. I will be using the Blaupunkt class d 5000 watt amp. Now it does not provide 5000 watts as it has been on a dyno. At 2 ohms it gives 1070 watts rms with a current draw of 129.4. I am still on the stock electrical system and the alternator is only 70 amps. The joys of a 36 year old car. When the bass kicks in my headlights dim. What do i need to do to fix this please. I have looked for an uprated alternator and can't find one. Many thanks attached a picture of the enclosure i will use

Click to read more...

 

[1aespinoza Premium Member]

I have looked for an uprated alternator and can't find one.

You can try doing what is called the Big3. It is a series of grounding points to create a better circuit between the alternator and chassis. I assume your car is a unibody and those usually have a simple braided cable to the chassis. Not very good for high demand equipment. After that, a secondary battery would be your best bet in lieu of a high output alternator.

 

[Blackout67]

In order of easiest/cheapest to most expensive:

First off clean up your grounds from the battery that are attached to the body I'm under your hood and make sure where the amp is grounded to is clean and shiny metal and has a solid path to ground back to the battery.
Turn off bass boost or anything like that. If you headunit has a loudness setting, turn it off. Make sure your filters are set right. There should be a dial called "Subsonic filter" this needs to be set a few Hz below tuning frequency (example: tuning frequency is 36, a good subsonic setting would be 30hz), and your low pass filter should be 80-100hz. This will ensure that extra power is not being wasted on frequencies your subwoofer shouldn't be playing and will protect your sub from unloading and tearing itself apart below tuning frequency. After you've done this, play a 40hz test tone (frequency generator app on your phone is free) and set gains until lights dim.

Next try upgrading the stock wires. You can pick up a 4 gauge kit for like $40-50. No need to replace stock wires, just put the new kit over top of them. This will ensure your battery isn't dropping voltage from skinny wires. Bigger wires with fresh copper = less resistance = mow powah baby (to the amp)

Next, an AGM battery to replace the one under the hood. AGM batteries recharge and discharge much faster meaning that your battery will have an easier time taking a bass hit and will recharge faster for the next bass hit. Most parts stores sell them, but you will pay a premium for the convenience. Walmart has their brand of AGMs that people have had good luck with. You can also order a Deka AGM dual post from Rockauto for like $170 once you send the core in. This way you have lots of room to install wires. I have one in my truck for the past 2 1/2 years and it's held up great.

 

[Mattyboy205]

You can try doing what is called the Big3. It is a series of grounding points to create a better circuit between the alternator and chassis. I assume your car is a unibody and those usually have a simple braided cable to the chassis. Not very good for high demand equipment. After that, a secondary battery would be your best bet in lieu of a high output alternator.

Thank you I will grab the bits and do the big 3

 

[Mattyboy205]

In order of easiest/cheapest to most expensive:

First off clean up your grounds from the battery that are attached to the body I'm under your hood and make sure where the amp is grounded to is clean and shiny metal and has a solid path to ground back to the battery.
Turn off bass boost or anything like that. If you headunit has a loudness setting, turn it off. Make sure your filters are set right. There should be a dial called "Subsonic filter" this needs to be set a few Hz below tuning frequency (example: tuning frequency is 36, a good subsonic setting would be 30hz), and your low pass filter should be 80-100hz. This will ensure that extra power is not being wasted on frequencies your subwoofer shouldn't be playing and will protect your sub from unloading and tearing itself apart below tuning frequency. After you've done this, play a 40hz test tone (frequency generator app on your phone is free) and set gains until lights dim.

Next try upgrading the stock wires. You can pick up a 4 gauge kit for like $40-50. No need to replace stock wires, just put the new kit over top of them. This will ensure your battery isn't dropping voltage from skinny wires. Bigger wires with fresh copper = less resistance = mow powah baby (to the amp)

Next, an AGM battery to replace the one under the hood. AGM batteries recharge and discharge much faster meaning that your battery will have an easier time taking a bass hit and will recharge faster for the next bass hit. Most parts stores sell them, but you will pay a premium for the convenience. Walmart has their brand of AGMs that people have had good luck with. You can also order a Deka AGM dual post from Rockauto for like $170 once you send the core in. This way you have lots of room to install wires. I have one in my truck for the past 2 1/2 years and it's held up great.

Thank you very much