That dude has nerve to call other people ugly. Serious, would love to see him cracked in the face with a Louisville //content.invisioncic.com/y282845/emoticons/laugh.gif.48439b2acf2cfca21620f01e7f77d1e4.gifLOL at garbage compactor teeth
That dude has nerve to call other people ugly. Serious, would love to see him cracked in the face with a Louisville //content.invisioncic.com/y282845/emoticons/laugh.gif.48439b2acf2cfca21620f01e7f77d1e4.gifLOL at garbage compactor teeth
Leave Murphy alone so he can finish my SHDs! lolnow another $500 to Tantric for rebuilding
The joke is paying 500$ to build up a pair of 15's.Who saw me coming? (hopefully I didn't just fall for a deez nutz joke)
The composite cone is lighter, so I can get a bigger/beefier/heavier coil and still keep reasonable mms. Actually, I do think I will benefit from using the Ti frame, because i can get more out of the subs mechanically. I was actually hitting the cone on the spider landing with my Z. It ticked at really high excursion. About a centimeter left in the motor, but the cone would slightly touch the basket. Now I can get a slightly longer coil and the larger spider will hopefully keep it linear
I do know somebody local who has folded a cone. Also, they're 12's, not 15's.The joke is paying 500$ to build up a pair of 15's.
What's the mass of that composite cone? The American made pulp cones I use are 170g and AFAIK nobody has shredded one even on 20KW. Do you believe that even 100g of mass will make an audible difference? My point is if you're not shredding cones you have no performance gains from carbon fiber.
IMO if you're bottoming out a 15" sub on a standard 12 spoke frame on any less than 5KW you're doing something terribly wrong. You should be considering either tuning lower or learning how to use a subsonic filter so that you're not over-driving your woofers below where your port unloads. By the look of that motor you'll start hitting the back-plate if you try to go much longer with a coil anyway, what precisely are you trying to accomplish here? Are you sure you actually picked the right platform for the job?
Why not use Scandium alloy cones? Cost, obviously. It's your money, if being able to say/show off that you have a CF cone makes you happy, than it's money well spent I suppose.I do know somebody local who has folded a cone. Also, they're 12's, not 15's.
Was the composite cone necessary? No. That's beside the point. They came with composite cones, so why not use them again????
What I'm saying is the suspension/basket maxed out before the motor structure. I just want the most out of them that I can get. Don't you want the most out of your equipment?
First of all THE SUBS CAME WITH THE CONES. I did not buy these extra!!! You don't seem to get that.Why not use Scandium alloy cones? Cost, obviously. It's your money, if being able to say/show off that you have a CF cone makes you happy, than it's money well spent I suppose.
How much depth do you have to the back-plate before the OEM coil bottoms out? Is the height of the spider landing really the limiting factor here? If so, by how much? Do you really believe that 5mm more x-mech will make an audible difference?
What are you using for an amp that you're bottoming them out? What size/tuning box? How far below tuning are you trying to play when they reach x-mech?
ThanksCool cat bro. I got a couple myself. They own the rotty //content.invisioncic.com/y282845/emoticons/smile.gif.1ebc41e1811405b213edfc4622c41e27.gif
Your putting all those batteries in your car? You can buy those batteries at Menards //content.invisioncic.com/y282845/emoticons/fyi.gif.9f1f679348da7204ce960cfc74bca8e0.gif IDK if its the exact batteries, but the brand. i got one in my trunk.
LOL. They actually had no group 49. Top price batts are $94+core deposit. So sorry, no help there. I don't think they are high quality Exide either. Not too familiar with the brand, but they had no blue tops like the ones in your pics. They could just be cheap Chinese batteries that Exide throws their logo on and sells at menards.Thanks
Are the group 49 Exide batteries $150 each at Menards?
Lol, okLOL. They actually had no group 49. Top price batts are $94+core deposit. So sorry, no help there. I don't think they are high quality Exide either. Not too familiar with the brand, but they had no blue tops like the ones in your pics. They could just be cheap Chinese batteries that Exide throws their logo on and sells at menards.
I know what they come with, but that's not relevant to what you're using to have them rebuilt.First of all THE SUBS CAME WITH THE CONES. I did not buy these extra!!! You don't seem to get that.
Also, they have different voice coils. The one with a red pole piece is dual.5 and the other one is d1, so i would need to get at least one reconed to run them properly on the same amp. Also, they are five years old. I am going to have them both redone so they get about the same suspension wear & tear.
It has 4 cm of clearance to the back of the motor. Not sure about the distance between the cone and basket, but it's already boxed up and ready to ship to Tantric, so I don't want to unpack it.
Was using the Banda 7k. Was a little below tuning, which I know causes subs to unload. It wasn't ridiculously low though
It is relevant, because you were talking about paying extra for the cones. I did not pay extra for the cones.I know what they come with, but that's not relevant to what you're using to have them rebuilt.
Regardless of whether or not you spend an extra 100$ per driver to have Ti frames and 10" spiders on them I really think you'll gain little if any performance.
You will need to learn to be a little more aggressive with use of the HPF if you plan to run a pair of 12's on that kind of power with or without Ti frames you can get into trouble pretty quick.
It really doesn't look to me like there's that much more depth before the coil hits the back plate. Spider slapping top plate or coil hitting bottom plate will break former/coil just as quick.
I'm hoping I will never sell these. Will keep the motors, and just change out the basket and soft parts later in life if i get a Tahoealso you need to look at the resale value ... you will never get all that money back. and like said spending all that on stuff that really not going to make any diffrence.
it sounds like you just want the best of the best... just so you can say... look at my subs....
im just saying bud..
i say put that money in something else..
like motor upgrades, suspension upgrades... with all that stuff in there your going to need it.