Last Fiero build log

And are you going to sell your Blazer?

Even after all that money, you know you love it, haha

I'm not going to sell my car. After all I've done to it, there's no way I can get out of it what it's worth to me.

Also, I doubt anyone would buy my subs for the money I put into them. Can't really upgrade anymore though, so I won't be replacing them

EDIT: My alternator was $179 more than I paid for the car, haha

 
It is relevant, because you were talking about paying extra for the cones. I did not pay extra for the cones.
What do you suggest I set the subsonic at? Enclosure will be tuned somewhere in the 30's

Just measured, and it had a tad bit over 3 centimeters clearance between the cone and spider landing. By adding the Ti baskets, I could have a bit more clearance for the cone and be more safe mechanically.

I'm hoping I will never sell these. Will keep the motors, and just change out the basket and soft parts later in life if i get a Tahoe
For 250$ a whack what kind of cones are you getting?

Assuming you get an extra cm before the spider hits the top plate, will you have an extra cm before the coil hits the bottom plate?

"Somewhere in the 30's" is a pretty big difference when you're really pushing things to the limit. Tune to 31hz and the port will still control the cones down to mid to low 20s, though you may still run into mechanical limits as you approach 20 even if you tune around there (you begin to need a lot more displacement as you go down in frequency to maintain the same acoustic power).... tune to 38/39 and you'll need to be careful below 35. "DD Box" tunes within a couple cycles of 40hz and I promise you everything will be happy if you tune there and you will get huge output. Generally speaking, when you try to low-tune a woofer that's critically damped you'll wind up with a two humped camel for a frequency response which IMO sounds absolutely awful. Best to just sacrifice on the low extension and deal with it, or buy yourself some LMS 5400's, Re XXX, Sundown X, or similar that's designed to play pipe organ/whale songs.

 
Lol the chances of finding a buyer for a cut up fiero.... Not likely... Not saying it's not bad *** cause it is pretty cool... But I have extreme doubts you'd find a buyer

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I went with DDs suggested tune and port area(15sq per) of 35hz. I got audible output in the low 20s and that's running double RMS. No mech issues
Nice I can't wait to install my sundown x8s and see how they do in 33hz box

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For 250$ a whack what kind of cones are you getting?
Assuming you get an extra cm before the spider hits the top plate, will you have an extra cm before the coil hits the bottom plate?

"Somewhere in the 30's" is a pretty big difference when you're really pushing things to the limit. Tune to 31hz and the port will still control the cones down to mid to low 20s, though you may still run into mechanical limits as you approach 20 even if you tune around there (you begin to need a lot more displacement as you go down in frequency to maintain the same acoustic power).... tune to 38/39 and you'll need to be careful below 35. "DD Box" tunes within a couple cycles of 40hz and I promise you everything will be happy if you tune there and you will get huge output. Generally speaking, when you try to low-tune a woofer that's critically damped you'll wind up with a two humped camel for a frequency response which IMO sounds absolutely awful. Best to just sacrifice on the low extension and deal with it, or buy yourself some LMS 5400's, Re XXX, Sundown X, or similar that's designed to play pipe organ/whale songs.
I don't understand your first question: "For 250$ a whack what kind of cones are you getting?". I am re-using the composite cones that came with the subs. They just get new surrounds. Had my N3's built with used composite cones.

I will be tuning as low as I possibly can in my available space.

Not sure how much space a Ti basket has between the spider landing and where it meets the top of the motor. Does anyone else know? One reason I'm switching to Ti is the stock spiders are only 7.5 inches. Do you think 7.5 inch spiders are best for my application? One of them is broken, so I'd at least need to get one new basket. Honestly, if the stock basket is fine, I'll just get new ones of those. I just had several people tell me Ti's would indeed be a better option.

As a side note, I did find a really awesome pipe organ song on youtube, haha

Lol the chances of finding a buyer for a cut up fiero.... Not likely... Not saying it's not bad *** cause it is pretty cool... But I have extreme doubts you'd find a buyer

Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
Won't sell my car, even if someone wanted to buy it. Only exception is if someone offered a ridiculous amount of money for it, which is not going to happen.

I went with DDs suggested tune and port area(15sq per) of 35hz. I got audible output in the low 20s and that's running double RMS. No mech issues
I have a lot more port area than that. It's an 11.5 inch aeroport. Will be 40 inches long. Trying to get as many cubes out of my available space for internal box volume. The goal is to hairtrick, so i needed a ton of port area. Was going to go with a 10" aero to make tuning low easier, but could not find any. It was either the 11.5 I got or an 8" aero which would be too small and i would get port noise

 
I don't understand your first question: "For 250$ a whack what kind of cones are you getting?". I am re-using the composite cones that came with the subs. They just get new surrounds. Had my N3's built with used composite cones.
I will be tuning as low as I possibly can in my available space.

Not sure how much space a Ti basket has between the spider landing and where it meets the top of the motor. Does anyone else know? One reason I'm switching to Ti is the stock spiders are only 7.5 inches. Do you think 7.5 inch spiders are best for my application? One of them is broken, so I'd at least need to get one new basket. Honestly, if the stock basket is fine, I'll just get new ones of those. I just had several people tell me Ti's would indeed be a better option.

As a side note, I did find a really awesome pipe organ song on youtube, haha

Won't sell my car, even if someone wanted to buy it. Only exception is if someone offered a ridiculous amount of money for it, which is not going to happen.

I have a lot more port area than that. It's an 11.5 inch aeroport. Will be 40 inches long. Trying to get as many cubes out of my available space for internal box volume. The goal is to hairtrick, so i needed a ton of port area. Was going to go with a 10" aero to make tuning low easier, but could not find any. It was either the 11.5 I got or an 8" aero which would be too small and i would get port noise
My 12s would move some air and they had the same port area just tuned at 32. If you just want a one note wonder that's fine I guess.

 
My 12s would move some air and they had the same port area just tuned at 32. If you just want a one note wonder that's fine I guess.
Not really after a one note wonder, but it may be that way. We'll see.

May replace it later with a 10" aero for more reasonable tuning.

I read something a while back about having port area no more than half of your sub's total sd. I'm just a little bit over that

 
I don't understand your first question: "For 250$ a whack what kind of cones are you getting?". I am re-using the composite cones that came with the subs. They just get new surrounds. Had my N3's built with used composite cones.
I will be tuning as low as I possibly can in my available space.

Not sure how much space a Ti basket has between the spider landing and where it meets the top of the motor. Does anyone else know? One reason I'm switching to Ti is the stock spiders are only 7.5 inches. Do you think 7.5 inch spiders are best for my application? One of them is broken, so I'd at least need to get one new basket. Honestly, if the stock basket is fine, I'll just get new ones of those. I just had several people tell me Ti's would indeed be a better option.

As a side note, I did find a really awesome pipe organ song on youtube, haha

Won't sell my car, even if someone wanted to buy it. Only exception is if someone offered a ridiculous amount of money for it, which is not going to happen.

I have a lot more port area than that. It's an 11.5 inch aeroport. Will be 40 inches long. Trying to get as many cubes out of my available space for internal box volume. The goal is to hairtrick, so i needed a ton of port area. Was going to go with a 10" aero to make tuning low easier, but could not find any. It was either the 11.5 I got or an 8" aero which would be too small and i would get port noise
So for 500$ you're not even buying cones!?! Ouch.

I prefer standard 12 spoke frames since they and 8" spiders are easiest to find and fairly priced (you sure they're 7.5 and not 8"?). I've used the oddball frames as well and IMO you're gaining very little for the expense in most applications. A friend of mine up this way was using stock Sundown Zv3 12s and was breaking them playing below tuning so we switched up to Ti frames, big surround cones, and the pink spider pack and they're surviving now (at the expense of almost a full dB), but simply using a subsonic filter correctly would have got him to the same place and saved him a lot of money. He bumped his re-cone cost from about 60$ to 150$ a pop when he breaks them again plus shelled out the extra change for the new frames.

Wish you still had them out because it really looked like you don't have that much more wiggle room on the down stroke before the coil hits the bottom plate, particularly not if you go with a taller coil.

If your goal is whale songs I think DD-Z likely is not the best choice.

 
Not really after a one note wonder, but it may be that way. We'll see.
May replace it later with a 10" aero for more reasonable tuning.

I read something a while back about having port area no more than half of your sub's total sd. I'm just a little bit over that
A lot of the conventional wisdom about port area has changed dramatically over the years. I wouldn't recommend anything besides buying a couple sticks of sono tube and testing what works for you. I've personally never heard of "too much" port area, but it could be. Bear in mind the distance between the ends/edges of the port and anything else might be a more dramatic difference than it's area, and of course both will change as you change area and tuning. There's a lot of variables at work here that can make noticeable difference so testing is your best option. Plan around building a box in which you can easily change things and keep your options open.

 
So for 500$ you're not even buying cones!?! Ouch.
I prefer standard 12 spoke frames since they and 8" spiders are easiest to find and fairly priced (you sure they're 7.5 and not 8"?). I've used the oddball frames as well and IMO you're gaining very little for the expense in most applications. A friend of mine up this way was using stock Sundown Zv3 12s and was breaking them playing below tuning so we switched up to Ti frames, big surround cones, and the pink spider pack and they're surviving now (at the expense of almost a full dB), but simply using a subsonic filter correctly would have got him to the same place and saved him a lot of money. He bumped his re-cone cost from about 60$ to 150$ a pop when he breaks them again plus shelled out the extra change for the new frames.

Wish you still had them out because it really looked like you don't have that much more wiggle room on the down stroke before the coil hits the bottom plate, particularly not if you go with a taller coil.

If your goal is whale songs I think DD-Z likely is not the best choice.
The $500 will be for coils, baskets, spiders, leads, glue, surrounds, and the labor of cleaning the cones and putting everything together

Yes they are 7.5 inch. Had to get 8" spacers/adapters for the N3 spiders:

12″ Claw Style Frame | FixMySpeaker.com

I just don't like the look of the standard 12 spoke basket, and will have both subs inverted. I don''t want to spend a bunch of money on something that I don't like to look at.

The red one is packaged up, but I took the black one out of the box and measured the cone clearance. The one with the black pole piece only has about 3cm of rearward travel left in the motor. The coils were much different. I don't know if the coils I'm getting are longer or shorter. Same kind used in the HDD's

Goal isn't wale songs, although I have been listening to more slowed music lately.

Pimpin' by cyberoptics and the slowed version of "Downtown" are my favorite demo songs. Not sure if you consider those "wale songs"

MI0003580236.jpg


A lot of the conventional wisdom about port area has changed dramatically over the years. I wouldn't recommend anything besides buying a couple sticks of sono tube and testing what works for you. I've personally never heard of "too much" port area, but it could be. Bear in mind the distance between the ends/edges of the port and anything else might be a more dramatic difference than it's area, and of course both will change as you change area and tuning. There's a lot of variables at work here that can make noticeable difference so testing is your best option. Plan around building a box in which you can easily change things and keep your options open.
Testing just sucks because I can't just pull the box out and turn it around like most people. Adam can tell you how much of a pain it was to build the baffle

 
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