Need help installing aftermarket subwoofer setup into my new used car.

[Mitchell Fosgate III]

Did you ask Lieutenant Dang where those wires ran before ?

 

[Mitchell Fosgate III]

Great pictures. Back of the car. So only 1 amp to this Lexus. I know it’s not working yet. So good. Crossover filters won’t work. Not going to hit low frequencies. And the factory amplifier? Taken care of already. The reason why it won’t hit the low frequencies is because by the time the frequencies reach the subwoofer in the back of the car, no volts will be there. In the back. All the watts will go to the four speakers of the car. Zero to the subwoofer. And no music to the sub. Tough problem.

 

[Mitchell Fosgate III]

Am I to get this straight? You actually don’t intend to get the sounds system to work in the Lexus? And this will be only for showcase example. Because it sound like that.

 

[Mitchell Fosgate III]

What year was this amplifier in anybody know? My guess, 1990s.

 

[spokey9 5,000+ posts]

All of us here want to be a technician

I know for a fact I've never said anything that could be implied as me wanting to be a tech...did Google send you here to learn?

 

[s.abushaikha]

Alright so everything is working now with the small little cheap kicker loc. thank you guys. I still have no idea what the point of those 4 RCA’s were. However I need to now figure out how to connect the bass knob which I tracked its wires back under the kick panel.

I found this harness taped to the factory amp, that looks to be the same wires… do you think this was connected to whatever loc he had? If so, how can I connect his bass knob to my amp? Or do I have to replace it with my spare bass knob?

EDIT:
It looks like he has a Stinger bass knob. Those usually have 4 RCA’s, I connected them to a RCA - 3.5 Jack adapter and now those bass knob works good. I think I’m going to upgrade to the KeyLOC which has a higher wattage input due to me using the factory sub as the source

 

[s.abushaikha]

Do you guys think it would be worth spending the extra and upgrading to the KeyLOC? I heard it’s better to use if sprucing from a factory sub due to the higher wattage input. But will I notice a difference in sound quality or something? Also do you notice a huge difference with its De-EQ feature? Or will I be fine with the basic one.

 

[1aespinoza Premium Member]

Alright so everything is working now with the small little cheap kicker loc.

Do you guys think it would be worth spending the extra and upgrading to the KeyLOC? I heard it’s better to use if sprucing from a factory sub due to the higher wattage input. But will I notice a difference in sound quality or something? Also do you notice a huge difference with its De-EQ

Good deal. If you are not noticing any bass reduction as the volume goes up, then the regular LOC is just fine.

It looks like he has a Stinger bass knob. Those usually have 4 RCA’s, I connected them to a RCA - 3.5 Jack adapter and now those bass knob works good. I think I’m going to upgrade to the KeyLOC which has a higher wattage input due to me using the factory sub as the source

If the bass knob has 4 RCAs, then the RCAs that run to the front are for that. Remove the LOC to amp RCAs. Now plug one side of the car's RCAs to the amp and the other side to the LOC. With the bass knob volume down turn on the system and test it. If no bass, switch the RCAs on the amp and LOC. Test again. If the bass knob is connected to the RCA cables, it should control the amp's volume.

 

[s.abushaikha]

Good deal. If you are not noticing any bass reduction as the volume goes up, then the regular LOC is just fine.

If the bass knob has 4 RCAs, then the RCAs that run to the front are for that. Remove the LOC to amp RCAs. Now plug one side of the car's RCAs to the amp and the other side to the LOC. With the bass knob volume down turn on the system and test it. If no bass, switch the RCAs on the amp and LOC. Test again. If the bass knob is connected to the RCA cables, it should control the amp's volume.

Alright tomorrow I’ll try that. I only have the rear RCA’s hooked up and the bass knob works but it’s very sensitive, everything past medium sounds like max.

So what have I been hearing about these little LOC’s are good for tapping into normal full range door speakers and it’s recommended to get a bigger LOC if tapping into factory sub wires. I also saw the KeyLOC provides a very smooth and flat signal to the amp. Would that be noticeable in the smoothness of the bass?

 

[1aespinoza Premium Member]

I also saw the KeyLOC provides a very smooth and flat signal to the amp. Would that be noticeable in the smoothness of the bass?

I say use it a couple of weeks as is. If it seems to be lacking then by all means. Tuning and upgrading gear is half the fun of car audio. Listening to your subs while standing next to them should give you an idea of the sound quality.

 

[s.abushaikha]

I say use it a couple of weeks as is. If it seems to be lacking then by all means. Tuning and upgrading gear is half the fun of car audio. Listening to your subs while standing next to them should give you an idea of the sound quality.

Ok, I just have nothing to compare it to so I have no idea if it’s really worth it. I don’t want to be under-powering anything.

 

[1aespinoza Premium Member]

. I only have the rear RCA’s hooked up and the bass knob works but it’s very sensitive, everything past medium sounds like max.

Was it like this in your previous car?

 

[s.abushaikha]

Was it like this in your previous car?

My previous car gradually got louder. This knob as soon as you turn it like a fraction of a mm it gets loud and continues to get slightly louder. But I’m going to try and do what you said tm.

 

[s.abushaikha]

Also if I upgrade the LOC to something like a KeyLOC or LC2i can I bridge the power and ground to the amplifiers power and ground?

 

[1aespinoza Premium Member]

Also if I upgrade the LOC to something like a KeyLOC or LC2i can I bridge the power and ground to the amplifiers power and ground?

Yes.