Help with installing components front and rear


Jojo_Gutts

CarAudio.com Newbie
Jul 4, 2020
12
2
New york
So here is my prob. I recently got my hand on two pairs of Jbl component systems. The JBL club 6500c and the JBL stage 6000c. I want to put these in my car (nissan versa note sv 2014) since my stock speakers are shot. I have a sony xplod 4 channel 50 watt rms (per channel) amp that I want to use with them. I know coaxials are better in the back but it is what it is and I am stuck with components. I need help with the following:
  1. Which component set to place in the front and which in the back
  2. Do I use new thicker speaker wire or are factory wires ok?
  3. Most important of all where do I place my front tweeters and where do I place the rear ones? This is becoming a headache
  4. If coaxials are absolutely better in the rear is there a way to DIY components into coaxials? If not please help me with question 3 or tell me where to go from here.
  5. I have HPF and LPF settings on my amp for front and rear channels. How do I adjust those for front and rear?
I would really appreciate the help since I am doing a car audio install for the first time and dont really have money to spend on a professional install. A poor noob needing ur help :(
 

1aespinoza

Junior Member
May 22, 2013
504
148
Pharr, Texas
I would really appreciate the help since I am doing a car audio install for the first time and dont really have money to spend on a professional install. A poor noob needing ur help
Welcome JojoGutts. I would install the 6500s in the front and 6000s in the deck. The front tweeter can be mounted in what is known as the "sail". It is that corner area that covers the bolts for the side mirrors. On the rear, you can mount them right next to the grille of the 6.5s. I assume you got them with the whole kit and kaboodle, so there have to be mounting cups to mount them on the surface. Or you can use the flush mount cups, but you would have to use a hole saw and that is a little more difficult. Those sets come with crossovers so there is really no need to mess with the amp's crossovers. Only thing you will tune is the GAIN knob on the amp. When all is connected, you turn the gain full counterclockwise. Turn on radio to about 75% of it's volume. Now turn GAIN clockwise until the speakers distort a bit, then dial it back a little. You are done. Any more Qs, we are here.
 
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Jojo_Gutts

Jojo_Gutts

CarAudio.com Newbie
Jul 4, 2020
12
2
New york
Welcome JojoGutts. I would install the 6500s in the front and 6000s in the deck. The front tweeter can be mounted in what is known as the "sail". It is that corner area that covers the bolts for the side mirrors. On the rear, you can mount them right next to the grille of the 6.5s. I assume you got them with the whole kit and kaboodle, so there have to be mounting cups to mount them on the surface. Or you can use the flush mount cups, but you would have to use a hole saw and that is a little more difficult. Those sets come with crossovers so there is really no need to mess with the amp's crossovers. Only thing you will tune is the GAIN knob on the amp. When all is connected, you turn the gain full counterclockwise. Turn on radio to about 75% of it's volume. Now turn GAIN clockwise until the speakers distort a bit, then dial it back a little. You are done. Any more Qs, we are here.
Thank you so much. This helps for me to get started. I am sure I will run into a lot of unseen problems since its my first build. I will keep posting here for advice.
 
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Jojo_Gutts

Jojo_Gutts

CarAudio.com Newbie
Jul 4, 2020
12
2
New york
I cant figure out the JBL 600c diagrams. The diagrams are a little different from my speakers. Which inputs on the speaker are for the amp and which for the tweeter? It has 4 male terminals sticking out on the speaker.
 

1aespinoza

Junior Member
May 22, 2013
504
148
Pharr, Texas
Connect the tweeter positive to the speaker positive, tweeter negative to speaker negative. Then connect speaker positive to amp rear positive, then speaker negative to amp rear negative. Of course left rear speaker to left rear output etc. The tweeter has a built in crossover so do not worry about damaging it. You said you have the Stage 600c right? If yes then that is how you will wire them. Remember that all crossovers on the amp have to be OFF.
 
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2RZ-FE

Senior VIP Member
Mar 14, 2011
478
78
Dixon, Ca
An inline crossover or a passive crossover protects the lows from going to the tweeter you still need to use the high pass filter on the amp.
 
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Jojo_Gutts

Jojo_Gutts

CarAudio.com Newbie
Jul 4, 2020
12
2
New york
Connect the tweeter positive to the speaker positive, tweeter negative to speaker negative. Then connect speaker positive to amp rear positive, then speaker negative to amp rear negative. Of course left rear speaker to left rear output etc. The tweeter has a built in crossover so do not worry about damaging it. You said you have the Stage 600c right? If yes then that is how you will wire them. Remember that all crossovers on the amp have to be OFF.
Thank you.
 
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Jojo_Gutts

Jojo_Gutts

CarAudio.com Newbie
Jul 4, 2020
12
2
New york
An inline crossover or a passive crossover protects the lows from going to the tweeter you still need to use the high pass filter on the amp.
Can you please explain more. I am a total noob so dont want to screw it up.
 

2RZ-FE

Senior VIP Member
Mar 14, 2011
478
78
Dixon, Ca
They filter the incoming signal so each component only see's the frequencies it was designed for. Using a high pass on the amp keeps the lower frequencies from going to the mid. 80hz is a good starting paint. Using no high pass will result in your mid seeing frequencies below the range you set it at.
 
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1aespinoza

Junior Member
May 22, 2013
504
148
Pharr, Texas
They filter the incoming signal so each component only see's the frequencies it was designed for. Using a high pass on the amp keeps the lower frequencies from going to the mid. 80hz is a good starting paint. Using no high pass will result in your mid seeing frequencies below the range you set it at.
I see your point, but at 50 watts rms I do not think it critical to block anything below 80 hertz. This particular set was designed to play 50-20,000 hertz, blocking higher will rob the user of some of the lower usable spectrum. More so in this build that will not have a sub setup. I know 6.5s do not hit loud lows, but why block what little there is.
 
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Jojo_Gutts

Jojo_Gutts

CarAudio.com Newbie
Jul 4, 2020
12
2
New york
I see your point, but at 50 watts rms I do not think it critical to block anything below 80 hertz. This particular set was designed to play 50-20,000 hertz, blocking higher will rob the user of some of the lower usable spectrum. More so in this build that will not have a sub setup. I know 6.5s do not hit loud lows, but why block what little there is.
Thanks both of you for being so helpful and taking out the time. I did some research on my own to better educate myself but i feel the more I learned the more confusing it got lol. I do not have a sub so I think I will need the components to do the lifting for the low frequencies too. One thing I read that was kind of confusing was that some people suggested not plugging in the rear tweeters at all and just operating with the woofer. Because rear speakers are for rear fill and not really for sound? However, the discussions seemed to be emphasizing the sound stage and clarity of instrumental play and direction that I would expect to matter more in generes like jazz or rock. I mostly listen to house music and think having rear tweeters for "club" like effect might be better (since apparently thats what rear speakers end up doing by "spoiling" the sound stage). I would love to hear both of your thoughts on that. Am I right to think that the sound stage thing is more genere related or does putting in rear tweeter make the sound absolutely deplorable? A lot of people made it sound that I would be wasting the money I spent on everything by putting in rears.
 
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1aespinoza

Junior Member
May 22, 2013
504
148
Pharr, Texas
A lot of people made it sound that I would be wasting the money I spent on everything by putting in rears.
I would personally just use the front speakers. It is easier to wire and tune. But rears are meant more for passengers. They like a song that is playing, no need to crank radio to feed them the front only speaker setup. In retrospect, I never had sound issues using all four speakers. So if those users had problems, I would attribute it to installer error.
 
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ThxOne

AudioFreak
Jun 8, 2018
2,340
423
Saint Marys, GA
My two cents...

6500's up front.
6000's out back.
Make sure the speakers are mounted tight to the door with NO gaps. Use a "rubber like" gasket to mount the speaker to if you can.
If these speakers were/are new, the 6000's (Stage series) have the capacitor built into the speaker wires that came with the set, this wire is to be run to the tweeter.
I would run the crossovers full range on the amplifier. They are full range component speaker sets. Use an eq to compensate for any overbearing frequencies.
The front speakers (Club Series) should be slightly louder than the rear speakers if everything is set the same as they are 3ohm speakers and the rears are 4ohm speakers.
 

ThxOne

AudioFreak
Jun 8, 2018
2,340
423
Saint Marys, GA
I do have a roll of speaker wiring (12 or 14 gauge). Consensus is to not use that?
12awg is too big for what you are doing... 14 is too but it will work. 16-18awg would be ideal for your power output of 50w x 4 for the door speakers. I am running 16awg and 14awg for my doors. Mid/tweeter. 100w x 4 but realistically 60w x 2 and 30w x 2ish.
 
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Jojo_Gutts

Jojo_Gutts

CarAudio.com Newbie
Jul 4, 2020
12
2
New york
Ok so here are some updates. Between life and going down the rabbit hole with this one I just managed to install front speakers amp etc. I deadened the front doors. Closed the holes in door to approximate closed box. Fabricated brackets for my speakers, gave them ccf cone to door etc etc. Everything, though hectic went better than I hoped for. But I am facing a new set of challenges:

1. There is a hiss in my tweeters. Adjusting gain reduced it. Now not so noticeable at low volume but gets louder on higher volumes. Additional info is that on silent input (like silent aux input) with volume turned all the way up I hear a faint radio channel along with the hiss. Possible problems I feel are that I did not scrape paint for amp ground. But I am also getting my remote signal from "Antenna amp on" output from stereo harness. Will check ground tomorrow but do you think the second factor could make a difference too? I have a nissan versa note sv 2014 btw. It does not have a remote dedicated output for amp.

2. This is the real problem I am dreading. Only the left channels (front and rear) are working on my amp (sony xplod 440-ex). I know inputs have signal since I checked them with voltmeter and switched them (left to right) to double check. Speakers are working too. The test signal of the amp is also registering only on the left channels. Volt meter reads output form amps left channels (front and rear) but does not show anything on right. Its just the right outputs of my amp that dont seem to be working. Am I wiring it wrong? I gave it four speaker level inputs and am taking out four out puts with each speaker connected to its separate slot independently. I got the amp used off of ebay. Are the right channels circuits of my amp fried? Any way to check this?

3. In case the amp right channels are fried can this work: The amp has a mono way of connecting too. Using the left speaker positive and right speakers negative. It says on the mono labelling "L+R". So can I connect both my front speakers from these two terminals (using the one front mono out) for front and same with rear (from rear mono)? If my right circuits are fried will that mean I loose the right frequencies permanently or will the mono setup be able to combine them? Also will the amp be able to support 2 of my speakers from one output in what is essentially a parallel circuit arrangement in mono? I tried figuring out the circuit diagrams for amp. They are available freely online but I dont know how to read them (used to in high school but cant anymore).

4. In case my right circuit is fried and I loose my right frequencys permanently from amp. Will shifting the balance all the way left in the radio make up for the loss (in mono amp arrangement) since it is essentially mono now at the source? Would really really appreciate your help.
 

1aespinoza

Junior Member
May 22, 2013
504
148
Pharr, Texas
Would really really appreciate your help.
You already checked that rcas are giving a signal, answer is yes. Checked if amp output on right has power, answer is no. Verdict- amp right channels are bad. If you are certain that right channels are dead, you can do the following. Using only the front rcas, connect Front Left rca to Front Left amp input, now connect Front Right rca to Rear Left amp input. Now bridge Left speakers to Front Left amp output. Finally bridge Right speakers to Rear Left amp output. Amp will see a 2 ohm load so it will put out it's safe rms in stereo mode.
This way you still have balance available.
 
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Jojo_Gutts

Jojo_Gutts

CarAudio.com Newbie
Jul 4, 2020
12
2
New york
You already checked that rcas are giving a signal, answer is yes. Checked if amp output on right has power, answer is no. Verdict- amp right channels are bad. If you are certain that right channels are dead, you can do the following. Using only the front rcas, connect Front Left rca to Front Left amp input, now connect Front Right rca to Rear Left amp input. Now bridge Left speakers to Front Left amp output. Finally bridge Right speakers to Rear Left amp output. Amp will see a 2 ohm load so it will put out it's safe rms in stereo mode.
This way you still have balance available.
Thank you for your quick response. I am trying to run 4 speakers that is the problem. Would 2 in the front left and 2 in the rear left output work? I mentioned my speakers and amp above in thread. Would the amp be able to handle this? Does bridging mean just connecting them kind of in parallel (2 speakers to 1 output)?
 

1aespinoza

Junior Member
May 22, 2013
504
148
Pharr, Texas
Does bridging mean just connecting them kind of in parallel (2 speakers to 1 output)?
Yes, that is exactly what I meant. I goofed up in my terminology, long hours leave you dain bramaged. According to the manual, the amp can handle a 2ohm load giving 50w rms per channel. So each speaker set will recieve 25w rns. Does not sound like alot but should suffice for the time being. Now be advised that those 6500s are 3ohm, so when paralleled with the others it will be a tad bit under 2ohms. I do not believe this will be an issue because impedence rises once power goes into the speakers.
 
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Jojo_Gutts

Jojo_Gutts

CarAudio.com Newbie
Jul 4, 2020
12
2
New york
Yes, that is exactly what I meant. I goofed up in my terminology, long hours leave you dain bramaged. According to the manual, the amp can handle a 2ohm load giving 50w rms per channel. So each speaker set will recieve 25w rns. Does not sound like alot but should suffice for the time being. Now be advised that those 6500s are 3ohm, so when paralleled with the others it will be a tad bit under 2ohms. I do not believe this will be an issue because impedence rises once power goes into the speakers.
Thank you for explaining. And you are good. I am just a noob so need it broken down for me. I will check the install in parallel. But have to deaden rear doors before I do that. I am guessing do a good job wiring and installing and if in the end i am not happy i can just chuck out the amp and replace and still be able to use all the effort I put in. One thing I was wondering. Is there a way to make a safety for the under 2 ohm scenario? like a lil resistor in series with the 6500s? Or does that not work and destroy the audio quality or something?
 

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