Go big or go BIG with DIRAC on DSP?

[Sguirrelfeather]

I had an inexpensive Dayton DSP-408 for about a year and that famous ground loop finally crept up on me. Was never there and suddenly it was. Anyway, once I verified it's the DSP and not something wrong with my wiring I decided I didn't want to take a chance on another Dayton, figuring I'm just going to get another with ground loop built in from the factory. lol So, let's upgrade to a decent DPS, right?

So then here comes the hard question. I answered most of it. I know If I'm going to spend 300+ for a decent DSP I should probably just spend a couple hundred more for a REALLY good one with more features, options, etc. My problem is I **** at tuning and I just don't have the time. I mean, I think I spent 20+ hours with that DSP and even though I thought it sounded good I don't think I got everything out of it. Part of that could have been the beginners DSP I was using, but I'm wondering if I just don't have the knack for it.

Here's the question for anyone who has one or who has played with one. Should I get just a regular high end DSP or would spending $300 more for the DIRAC version of the C-DSP 8x12 make my life worth living again? lol I do enjoy the process, but I enjoy sitting down and listening so much more....plus the wife is tired of me spending time tinkering. I'm really leaning towards the DL version. Thoughts?

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[audiobaun 5,000+ posts]

I had an inexpensive Dayton DSP-408 for about a year and that famous ground loop finally crept up on me. Was never there and suddenly it was. Anyway, once I verified it's the DSP and not something wrong with my wiring I decided I didn't want to take a chance on another Dayton, figuring I'm just going to get another with ground loop built in from the factory. lol So, let's upgrade to a decent DPS, right?

So then here comes the hard question. I answered most of it. I know If I'm going to spend 300+ for a decent DSP I should probably just spend a couple hundred more for a REALLY good one with more features, options, etc. My problem is I **** at tuning and I just don't have the time. I mean, I think I spent 20+ hours with that DSP and even though I thought it sounded good I don't think I got everything out of it. Part of that could have been the beginners DSP I was using, but I'm wondering if I just don't have the knack for it.

Here's the question for anyone who has one or who has played with one. Should I get just a regular high end DSP or would spending $300 more for the DIRAC version of the C-DSP 8x12 make my life worth living again? lol I do enjoy the process, but I enjoy sitting down and listening so much more....plus the wife is tired of me spending time tinkering. I'm really leaning towards the DL version. Thoughts?

This is the reason WHY I MYSELF DO NOT LIKE A DSP. Its a PITA to tune all the time. Going in and out of the HU and trying to tune every song and spend so much time and still end in disappointed results, and difficult tuning while driving.
Ive opted. out for a Perimetric -EQ/Pre-amp EQ. Cost so much less than majority of DSP units, unless you get a expensive unit like an A.Control or? But for less than $100 bucks, the Clarion 755 unit. Ive been looking at the Stetsom EQX764 to try out. I run my old Kicker KQ9s in all my systems if I dont use my Clarion or others. You get 9-16v of boost cleaner signal from the majority of the units. Best of all.. Tuning ON THE FLY. Knobs are best to me while driving. Youll master it in a week! So much easier to use and tune any song IMHO. Worth every penny from my experiencing. Most do not like the looks of an EQ, but I sure enjoy the results and the accessibility it provides and a whole lot less frustration incorporated.

Stetsom EQX764 - 7 Band EQ Equalizer + Same Day Shipping from USA! | eBay

TheEQX764 is a graphic equalizer with 7 equalization bands, 4 input channels and 6 output channels. Its modern, robust design makes installing and adjusting the equalizer easy.

www.ebay.com

Robot or human?

I have one of these but finicky if amps grounds are not done correctly/solid. But when grounds are solid and securely done properly it works very well for as cheap as it is. Maybe try this unit out to see if a Preamp EQ will meet your needs for as cheap as it is to try out? Later maybe buy a better unit?

CT-7EQ // 7 Band 1/2 Din Parametric Car Audio Equalizer with AUX Input

The CT Sounds CT-7EQ is a 7 band 1/2 din parametric car audio equalizer designed to divide and enhance the segment of frequency for your car audio application. The car audio equalizer features 7 bands that divide 20Hz - 20kHz into 7 segments.

www.ctsounds.com

You can wedge them in between the drivers seat or use Extreme Vekcro(75lbs hold) and place it temporally before hard mounting it/ECT.,
But ..I myself Prefer a Preamp EQ rather than a DSP. Thats me. Its a waste of time for me to go in and out of the HU to tune. By that time Ive already reached my boiling point as I didnt succeed @ my tuning of my music once I reached my destination. All music is recorded differently and same tuning doesnt meet the criteria for my listening.

 

[winkychevelle 10+ year member]

Dirac can get 90% of the way there to a good professional tune. And there are several guides over on diymobileaudio on how to manipulate directly for better results.

Unfortunately all of the available autotune dsps are going to be slightly behind a good professional tune.

You can get good remote tunes with dsps from helix mosconi, and I believe Addison and jl from tuners like Jeffery halde

 

[Sguirrelfeather]

This is the reason WHY I MYSELF DO NOT LIKE A DSP. Its a PITA to tune all the time. Going in and out of the HU and trying to tune every song and spend so much time and still end in disappointed results, and difficult tuning while driving.
Ive opted. out for a Perimetric -EQ/Pre-amp EQ.

I always thought about pre-EQs being used for OEM HUs which have built in EQ settings to drop bass below a certain point, or set certain freqs for the cabin so the DSP gets a flat response. Didn't think of doing the way you're talking about. Might be worth taking a gander.

Perhaps a dumb question, but I didn't see anything on the CT website. If it's a parametric EQ how do you adjust the width for each freq adjustment?

Dirac can get 90% of the way there to a good professional tune. And there are several guides over on diymobileaudio on how to manipulate directly for better results.

Unfortunately all of the available autotune dsps are going to be slightly behind a good professional tune.

You can get good remote tunes with dsps from helix mosconi, and I believe Addison and jl from tuners like Jeffery halde

I'll google this in a moment but in case I don't find what you're talking about, what exactly are remote tunes? Is this like I use REW, get a reading, send it to someone and then they tell me what to change on the DSP to correct? Or something else?

EDIT: Read up on it......damn that's expensive! Probably worth it if you can't tune for crap like me. lol

 

[audiobaun 5,000+ posts]

Are you using an amplifier or amplifiers at all??
I was assuming.

 

[Sguirrelfeather]

Yes. I have an active 3-way front stage with sub. On the A pillars are Massive CT2 tweeters (will be upgrading those to Stevens' SA1s once I get the pods for the pillars built) running off a budget CT sounds AT-125.4. In door pods are PRV 5MR450-NDY and Stevens' MB8s running off a Wolfram AW-250.4. In the back are a pair of 18" Fi BTL-3s fed from a Wolfram AW-9000. HU is a Pioneer DMH-1500NEX. Currently have the passive crossover on the amp splitting the freqs for the mids and mid-bass, but the HU is doing the work for tweets and subs.

 

[audiobaun 5,000+ posts]

Yes. I have an active 3-way front stage with sub. On the A pillars are Massive CT2 tweeters (will be upgrading those to Stevens' SA1s once I get the pods for the pillars built) running off a budget CT sounds AT-125.4. In door pods are PRV 5MR450-NDY and Stevens' MB8s running off a Wolfram AW-250.4. In the back are a pair of Fi BTL-3s fed from a Wolfram AW-9000. HU is a Pioneer DMH-1500NEX. Currently have the passive crossover on the amp splitting the freqs for the mids and mid-bass, but the HU is doing the work for tweets and subs.

Hell.. That CT Sounds EQ will work.

 

[audiobaun 5,000+ posts]

A short set of RCAs (6"-1Ft) come off REAR RCAs on back of HU to MAIN INPUT on EQ power and ground can be added to the HU and Remote, then off EQ to amps and still can split RCAs as needed for CHs., Hell ya

 

[audiobaun 5,000+ posts]

There have been times Ive ran up to 6 amps off my EQ

 

[audiobaun 5,000+ posts]

Yes. I have an active 3-way front stage with sub. On the A pillars are Massive CT2 tweeters (will be upgrading those to Stevens' SA1s once I get the pods for the pillars built) running off a budget CT sounds AT-125.4. In door pods are PRV 5MR450-NDY and Stevens' MB8s running off a Wolfram AW-250.4. In the back are a pair of Fi BTL-3s fed from a Wolfram AW-9000. HU is a Pioneer DMH-1500NEX. Currently have the passive crossover on the amp splitting the freqs for the mids and mid-bass, but the HU is doing the work for tweets and subs.

Nice set up man!!!

 

[Sguirrelfeather]

Nice set up man!!!

Appreciate it. I've gotten a lot of advice from some good people on here....and I've avoided some bad advice from some not so smart people on here. lol

I think I'll try a few variations. Maybe the EQ first, see how it sounds, then maybe incorporate a DSP with as good a tune I can get and then use the EQ to tweak on the fly....see what I like best? Still not 100% decided, but that doesn't sound like a bad thought process.

 

[spokey9]

This is the reason WHY I MYSELF DO NOT LIKE A DSP. Its a PITA to tune all the time. Going in and out of the HU and trying to tune every song and spend so much time and still end in disappointed results, and difficult tuning while driving.

Knobs most dsp setups I've seen (granted they been cheap dsp) don't run the control knob from the amps so they can't adjust levels on the fly

 

[audiobaun 5,000+ posts]

Knobs most dsp setups I've seen (granted they been cheap dsp) don't run the control knob from the amps so they can't adjust levels on the fly

Ya man. Its so much easier to tune on the fly with an EQ for me rather than spending so much time going in and out of the HU or on a phone or laptop ect. Takes too much time and I get frustrated. Easy enough to reach down and turn things up ir down and fine tune. It also adds a little more clarity and is a bit louder with one added

 

[audiobaun 5,000+ posts]

It sure makes tuning my music so much easier, especially while driving. Youll master that EQ in a week. LOL

 

[winkychevelle 10+ year member]

I always thought about pre-EQs being used for OEM HUs which have built in EQ settings to drop bass below a certain point, or set certain freqs for the cabin so the DSP gets a flat response. Didn't think of doing the way you're talking about. Might be worth taking a gander.

Perhaps a dumb question, but I didn't see anything on the CT website. If it's a parametric EQ how do you adjust the width for each freq adjustment?




I'll google this in a moment but in case I don't find what you're talking about, what exactly are remote tunes? Is this like I use REW, get a reading, send it to someone and then they tell me what to change on the DSP to correct? Or something else?

EDIT: Read up on it......damn that's expensive! Probably worth it if you can't tune for crap like me. lol

The average tune is $500 and yea thats a big ticket expense but you are paying for that tuner to spend his time fine tuning your system either remotely or in person. In person they provide the measurement gear remote either you rent it or provide your own.

So your paying for the tuners time and most importantly his knowledge. I can tune decently but I would never put myself in the same realm as some of those guys