Big 3 question?

JohnPD

CarAudio.com Regular
How do I do it with these wires? Obviously on the positive one goes to the alternator, and the other goes to the engine fuse block, so I’m presuming I don’t touch the one that goes to the fuse block. On the Negative I know one goes to the chassis, but what about the smaller one that’s attached to the negative terminal? The small one it to the left of the battery negative, it's two wires in a wire loom that has a plug in connector on the end that plugs into the battery terminal connector. The positive terminal connector on the right is two wires that go to the fuse block.
 

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Just go and get some Longer bolts so that when you use the Ring terminals that they will fit on each bolt and the nut will go back on and tighten back up for the batt. post to hold the battery connection secure. Leave All existing wires in place will be just fine. All you are doing is Adding the Big3 wires to what is there. I cut and removed all my smaller gauged wiring on my truck and did 1/0ga , and left the main Fuse box under the hood power wiring alone, and the starter wiring.Placed the Poss from Alt. to Batt , added Ground to Engine block, and ground to Front body frame.
 
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For this if you are not replacing the Battery terminals... Just simply make the bolt longer so that they will hold the ring terminals for the Big3
 
As a rule, there isn't any reason to remove the existing cables, just add the new ones over the others (piggyback the end connections). Longer bolts are not usually needed but if they are, that's a simple fix. Just measure the cables that are there, terminate the ends (crimp them accordingly) and just add them over the esisting wiring. You cannot have too much copper in this regard and that way if you ever want to change them out or remove them, you still have all the orignal stuff in place.
 
As a rule, there isn't any reason to remove the existing cables, just add the new ones over the others (piggyback the end connections). Longer bolts are not usually needed but if they are, that's a simple fix. Just measure the cables that are there, terminate the ends (crimp them accordingly) and just add them over the esisting wiring. You cannot have too much copper in this regard and that way if you ever want to change them out or remove them, you still have all the orignal stuff in place.
I deff dont see the Neg Batt. Post able to accompany two ,more additions. The Poss. bolt also looks a little short. Reason i recommended adding a longer bolt to accompany the new ring terminals to fit and being able to secure the battery connection back to normal status. Bolts are cheap. Id rather like to see a better battery connection rather than the thin metal post connections. But thats up to the owner of the vehicle, and as funds permit?
 
I deff dont see the Neg Batt. Post able to accompany two ,more additions. The Poss. bolt also looks a little short. Reason i recommended adding a longer bolt to accompany the new ring terminals to fit and being able to secure the battery connection back to normal status. Bolts are cheap. Id rather like to see a better battery connection rather than the thin metal post connections. But thats up to the owner of the vehicle, and as funds permit?
Agree, bigger is better all the way around. I usuualy re-do both terminal facilities using T-spec multi input terminal blocks, takes care of everything for an extra $45 - $55.00. Ilike these, very versatile, very well made. Amazon product ASIN B088ZR67KP
And you can use the orignal connections with the extra post these come with and just insert the additnal cables (I use ferules too) and tighten the connections, easy peasy!
 
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Most car manufacturers use the “one size fits all” approach to these kinds of connections so that they have terminals that accommodate all models in a given lineup. Some models may have different accessories, engines or add-ons that require additional battery attachments, etc. If it’s open and you have a need for another connection, clean it up and use it! It’s all part of the same terminal.
 
Nothing. No idea what it’s for. It’s all original except for the the battery. That but has to come off the bolt that holds the clamp on. No idea why it only spins off to the end of the bolts threads
If that spot is solid and nothing goes there...you could run a bolt through it and attach your ground there...just go over is closely to see if it's solid and part of the of terminal wrapping around the post...
 
Wait so the bolt just spins and will not loosen? Simple if you have a dremel cut off one side of it or cut the nut in a couple places and then replace the bolt.
No, it loosens, it only loosens to the end of the threads on the bolt, then it stops and won’t come off the end of the bolt. There’s about an eighth inch of thread to the end of the bolt, which is plenty to take the terminal of the battery. I just can’t get the bolt all the way off.
 
Wait so the bolt just spins and will not loosen? Simple if you have a dremel cut off one side of it or cut the nut in a couple places and then replace the bolt.
This is a bolt that is pushed on mechanically so that it isn;t lost during the installtion of the wire harness, use a dremmel or hacksaw and cut it off. Then, you can tap it yourself and use a single bolt from above or pull it off, drill the hole out and run a bolt from underneath to upwards with a nut on top, either way, if you need it, clean it up and use it!
 
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I’m not seeing the bolt your speaking of but from what you say, It’s either stripped or it is designed to be used with a lock nut on the other side. Sometimes they install bolts that are hard to place once mounted and the design them so they don’t fall off/out. That way when they connect everything else, the bolt is already in place ready to go without having to assemble/disassemble it each time or lose it in the assembly line as it rolls down the track. This open section that you have circled looks to be part of the solid brass terminal, you can tap it yourself and use a single bolt from above or pull it off, drill out the hole, run a bolt from underneath to the top with a nut on top, either way, if you need it, clean it up and use it!
I’m not seeing the bolt your speaking of but from what you say, It’s either stripped or it is designed to be used with a lock nut on the other side. Sometimes they install bolts that are hard to place once mounted and the design them so they don’t fall off/out. That way when they connect everything else, the bolt is already in place ready to go without having to assemble/disassemble it each time or lose it in the assembly line as it rolls down the track. This open section that you have circled looks to be part of the solid brass terminal, you can tap it yourself and use a single bolt from above or pull it off, drill out the hole, run a bolt from underneath to the top with a nut on top, either way, if you need it, clean it up and use it!
Look at the picture of the negative. It’s the only bolt that tightens the clamp to the battery post. The nut won’t come off the end of the bolt, but loosens to the end which is about an eighth of an inch.
IMG_1083.jpeg
 
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